Bob asks: >>I'm confused. What's the difference between a "taped" seam inside and out and a "fiberglass" seam inside and out?>> Dave Kruger responded: >>I think Doug means "polyester resin and glass" when he says "fiberglass" and means "epoxy and glass" when he says "taped." I think he favors the epoxy over the polyester. Perhaps Matt broze can help here, also.>> Correcto-mondo. Though what I really meant was "polyester resin taped (or some call it glassed) seams" don't hold up as well as "epoxy taped (or some call it glassed) seams" - IMHO, for boats subject to a lot of abuse. The only difference I was attempting to highlight was that epoxy can be a better resin to use with the fiberglass tape or matt, as it is stronger. There are strong opinions to counter this statement, but for me, having re-taped my seams and added outside seams, using epoxy resin, I have a confidence in my kayak unparalleled (pardon the pun) in my previous 20 years of boat abuse. I will try and get you an excerpt from VCP on their defense of inside only polyester resin taped seams. On a related note, my previous post did imply my dislike of "H" extruded seams. This was more to do with my high standard for hull-to-deck strength, rather than anything empirical. "H" seamed boats seem to be standing up fine, though I get reports of leakage. But on the matter of vacuumed bagged boats vs heavy Brit boats, I've seen and heard of many a "lighter-duty" vacuumed bagged boat suffering breakage in surf. Sorry, Nick, et al, Matt's point about adding an extra 10 (maybe 15) pounds is all too true. But it is not the vacume bagging at fault, just the lack of material that can result from too much emphasis on lightness. It is all a matter of balance and ordering your boat to suite your usage. Interestingly, my standard-duty fiberglass laid-up Lendal paddle from 1981 is still going strong, after years of substantial abuse, including broken blades (which have been replaced after surf misshaps, albeit with a shorter loom now after cutting off the old broken blades). The shaft is a bit heavy, but has never busted. On the other hand, a brand new standard-duty Lendal paddle I bought last year (same model, just 19 years newer, and vacuumed bagged I think) weighs a bit less, has a bit more flex - but snapped like a twig recently. Anecdotal evidence, yes, but none-the-less true. I only go lighter-weight now if the item/boat/etc is compensated for with more exotic materials. Of course, I paddle and buy gear to please myself, not meet other people's criteria, no matter what their status in the kayak fraternity. :-) BC in Ya Doug Lloyd *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************Received on Thu Apr 06 2000 - 18:45:36 PDT
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