Re: [Paddlewise] Dorcheat Bayou trip report

From: <gpwecho_at_juno.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 15:18:49 -0500
Paddlewisers...

The Dorcheat meanders through mostly hardwood bottomland with pine
becoming more noticeable as it nears Lake Bistineau.  Below the lake the
tea colored water changes color and finally mingles with "The Red" midway
between the cities of Shreveport and Natchitoches.  This weekend we will
be far above the lake in a moonscape setting that I like to paddle and
camp.  The area is a large abandoned gravel quarry which the bayou
overflow has long ago reclaimed.  Vegetation has made a comeback against
the clawing steel buckets, the massive steel washing screens, and other
rusted heavy iron-steel reminders of economic litter that can be found on
this unusual terrain.

For the most part the Dorcheat is fairly unremarkable.  Long stretches of
slow moving water that move lazily past open pasture and cultivated
farmlands make for something nice, but not spectacular.  Cows and horses
slake their thirst with great gulps of the clear, dark water.  As do the
doves on their evening flight before roost.  Rope swings tied to high
limbs in large oaks lean out over the bayou to mark several swimmin'
holes.  Fishing is a slow cadenced, but productive pastime here year
round.  Bass, white perch, catfish, or bream can make their way onto the
evening menu.  But, in some sections the Dorcheat changes character.  It
becomes more restricted and braided.  Small sand islands with wonderful
willow shade mask the deeper water channels.  During periods of heavy
rain runoff the current picks up and makes for a fun ride.  At very high
levels it becomes quite dangerous when it spills out of its banks and
creates complex drowning strainers with huge trees torn loose and laid
logjam fashion across the channel as the water recedes.    Numerous
half-hidden cuts in the bank mark where water found its way into the
abandoned quarry many years ago.  A strong starboard sweep, a forward
tuck to dodge the low hanging branches, and the change is sudden, and
quite dramatic.  Gone are the half-submerged half-rotten fallen logs
covered with turtles parked like trucks in gridlock.  Gone is the dark
tea water stained by percolated oak leaves.  Gone are the thick brushy
covered banks of briars, brambles, blackberries, huckleberries, and
honeysuckle.

The scenery that now quickly unfolds is of numerous small irregular
shaped islands that seem to float on blue-green water with passages
spiderwebbing everywhere.  Sand bars and sand banks beckon for a rest
stop.  Willows wave gently in the wind and seem to create open avenues
underneath and into themselves.  Tall evergreen pines stand like
sentinels filtering the breezes with a smooth rushing comforting sound. 
There is no distinct main channel anywhere.  In the quarry there is only
a meandering magic carpet of blue-green that supports your kayak, and
goes in 5, or 7 different directions from any point you try to take a
bearing.  You can't get "lost", but for most of the trip you will not
know "where" you are.  Topo maps look like the layout of a carnival come
to town.  Many thin strips of land intermixed with many thin strips of
water.  From your boat on the water your line of sight is about 200 yards
at most, and usuually a lot less.  Dead end lagoons, irregular shaped
islands, along with irregular openwater pools with full sun that lead
mysteriously back under a canopy arbor of vegetation into the full shade
of a flooded forest can provide hours of interested isolated cruising. 
The only way to leave this place is to bear due west at every
opportunity.  Even then you will probably dead-end once or twice before
this magical place loosens its grip on you.     

The small islands jut up steep sided, and rise quickly 30 to 40 feet in
some places from the water's surface.  A large fist-sized piece of smooth
gravel rock sits perfectly atop a smooth-sided inverted cone of dirt
several feet tall.  The rock appears to have been balanced there in "op
art" fashion by some unseen sculptor.  There are hundreds of these
formations here creating a moonscape impression.  Harsh erosion in some
places is now halted by the incessant green.  Chlorophyl struggles to
hold onto its tenuous grasp of the steep pressure-washed earth.  The
erosion continues in other spots so devoid of nutrients that only sun,
wind, and water seem at work there.  Odd and interesting sights are
everywhere.  The water must filter itself somehow through the massive
quantities of sand that remain here.  Hydraulic pressures I can only
imagine must somehow create the numerous springs and recirulations that
change this water drastically not only in color, but also in temperature.
 This water is always much cooler than that back in the main bayou.  Most
of the water is quite deep in the quarry.  In many places a strong
swimmer can never seem to find bottom.  After several attempts your lips
turn blue and your muscles shiver slightly.  The water on the surface
feels like warm bath water in contrast.  Most of the smooth sand beaches
provide an easy time of launching and landing your boat, but hide drastic
dropoffs only a few feet out from the waterline.  Stern paddlers beware
on straight-in landings.  Better to bring your boat in parallel to the
bank providing secure footing for all.  

We camp atop an old spoil bank that resembles a small plateau.  Three
large shade trees provide a sun shelter and the ground is carpeted with a
thick layer of pine needles where we make camp.  There is a fresh and
constant breeze blowing under the pines that feels good after a day's
paddling.  Just a short walk down the ridgeline we have an unobstructed
view of the sky for some nighttime "star-arguing" and it is much too cool
for mosquitos to be a problem.

After supper we decide to take a sundown paddle.  Caution here, for as
confusing as this place is in full daylight, it becomes 100 times more
cluttered at night.  We hang a candle lantern out from our landing and
pledge to keep it in sight.  We later modify that plan to be turn left,
turn right, turn left, turn right ...TURN AROUND !  All goes well and we
are lazily floating at our landing just as the last light of day fades
the color completely from our entire surroundings.  We paddle and scull
in lazy circles and talk about nothing as evening gathers.  Someone tells
a joke and nobody laughs.  Someone else reminds everyone of another time,
another trip, and everyone laughs.  Two boats lightly bump and make a
resounding clunk in the night.  The crickets continue.  Fireflys gather
and begin to advertise.  By the time we decide to land it is full dark
and a golden moon is beginning to peek over some distant tree line. 
Great ...I can go to bed early tonight without an extended star watch
interfering with my beauty rest !

...adieu, mes amies  ...Peyton  (Louisiana)

  





    
  
***************************************************************************
PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not
to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission
Submissions:     paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net
Subscriptions:   paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net
Website:         http://www.paddlewise.net/
***************************************************************************
Received on Wed Apr 26 2000 - 13:28:57 PDT

This archive was generated by hypermail 2.4.0 : Thu Aug 21 2025 - 16:30:23 PDT