Pretty concise. In my experience though, when I ram shore or rocks, the skeg just gets pushed up into the housing. It has gotten jammed with pebbles, but only once to the point I couldn't work it free from inside the boat. Maintenance question: what should I do? I have the cable type (Caribous S); I flush it as well as I can after salt water contact, and try to spray WD40 up the little tube. Is there a more effective regime? *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
"E. Sullivan" wrote: Re: skeg maintenance: > [snip] what should I do? I have the cable > type (Caribous S); I flush it as well as I can after salt > water contact, and try to spray WD40 up the little tube. Is > there a more effective regime? I've been reading a tome on marine corrosion, and stainless steel cable exposed to salt water is notorious for its degradation -- and sometimes from the inside out (look up "crevice corrosion" on the Web, if you want more detail). I have not run across anything in the book which is a quick fix. I'd suggest annual replacement. I know reading the book has motivated me to replace the rudder cables on my yaks every couple years. One set lasted five years. Another buddy had a set crater after about seven-eight years. All occasional, intermittent use, and stored dry between uses. -- Dave Kruger Astoria, OR *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
That's interesting. What tome is this? I have the Caribou, as well, so I am a bit concerned. But I have been working on sailboats for many years, and I have never heard it said that ss exposed to salt water "is notorious for its degradation." Quite the contrary, I have always understood that ss is one of the best substances to use in a marine environment, second only to bronze, and preferable to bronze where certain types of strength are required. Indeed, most modern sailboats use little or no bronze, and use ss for most everything. For example, most sailboats use ss prop shafts. These are actually *under* the water all the time, and they generally last a very very very long time. I'm not suggesting you (or the tome) are wrong, I would just like to learn a little more about the context and the actual point that the book in question is making. Thanks. Mark L. > >I've been reading a tome on marine corrosion, and stainless steel cable exposed >to salt water is notorious for its degradation -- and sometimes from the inside >out (look up "crevice corrosion" on the Web, if you want more detail). I have >not run across anything in the book which is a quick fix. > >I'd suggest annual replacement. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Sailboat Restorations, Inc. wrote: > > That's interesting. What tome is this? I have the Caribou, as well, so I > am a bit concerned. But I have been working on sailboats for many years, > and I have never heard it said that ss exposed to salt water "is notorious > for its degradation." Quite the contrary, I have always understood that ss > is one of the best substances to use in a marine environment, second only to > bronze, and preferable to bronze where certain types of strength are > required. Indeed, most modern sailboats use little or no bronze, and use ss > for most everything. For example, most sailboats use ss prop shafts. These > are actually *under* the water all the time, and they generally last a very > very very long time. I'm not suggesting you (or the tome) are wrong, I > would just like to learn a little more about the context and the actual > point that the book in question is making. Thanks. Mark, stainless steel rusts badly in a KAYAKING marine environment. I have all sorts of stainless steel things I can show you with considerable rust and corrosion. My sheath knife, fittings for sailing, etc. Also aluminum unless of marine grade or heavily anondized will also pit or corrode. This ain't from no tome. ralph > Mark L. > > > > >I've been reading a tome on marine corrosion, and stainless steel cable > exposed > >to salt water is notorious for its degradation -- and sometimes from the > inside > >out (look up "crevice corrosion" on the Web, if you want more detail). I > have > >not run across anything in the book which is a quick fix. > > > >I'd suggest annual replacement. > > *************************************************************************** > PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not > to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission > Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net > Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net > Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ > *************************************************************************** -- ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Ralph Diaz . . . Folding Kayaker newsletter PO Box 0754, New York, NY 10024 Tel: 212-724-5069; E-mail: rdiaz_at_ix.netcom.com "Where's your sea kayak?"----"It's in the bag." ----------------------------------------------------------------------- *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
"Sailboat Restorations, Inc." wrote: [Re: my assertion that SS cable was susceptible to crevice corrosion.] > That's interesting. What tome is this? I have the Caribou, as well, so I > am a bit concerned. But I have been working on sailboats for many years, > and I have never heard it said that ss exposed to salt water "is notorious > for its degradation." Quite the contrary, I have always understood that ss > is one of the best substances to use in a marine environment, second only to > bronze, and preferable to bronze where certain types of strength are > required. Indeed, most modern sailboats use little or no bronze, and use ss > for most everything. For example, most sailboats use ss prop shafts. These > are actually *under* the water all the time, and they generally last a very > very very long time. I'm not suggesting you (or the tome) are wrong, I > would just like to learn a little more about the context and the actual > point that the book in question is making. Thanks. Mark, the book (and it's definitely a tome!) is on loan to a friend, so it will be a day or so before I can get hold of it. It is a classic in its field (circa 1978 copyright), and until I read it I would have had the same opinion you do -- based on the minimal corrosion visible **from the outside** on stainless. My post was specifically about "crevice corrosion," which occurs in covered areas of SS not exposed to oxygen (or, oxygenated sea water). Basically, because the exposed area of the SS becomes cathodic (due to exposure to oxygen), the covered area(s) become anodic, and hence are susceptible to crevice corrosion. This means that on areas under boltheads, areas enclosed in epoxy (etc.), the SS corrodes. In the book are many dramatic photos of drastically eroded surfaces from situations like the ones mentioned. When the covered area is small relative to the exposed area, then all the anodic activity is concentrated in a small space, leading at times to penetration of the covered surface, and possible failure of the fastener (etc.) at that location. What is insidious about this type of corrosion is that (as you say), the **visible** surfaces of the SS look good -- and they are -- but those areas not readily visible *may* not be. Please note that I am not saying SS is a poor choice for marine use. I am saying that in an application such as SS cable, with its substantial potential for crevice corrosion, regular replacement should be the norm, inasmuch as one can not readily check the "crevices" in cable non-destructively. I'll post the complete citation for the book when it is back in my hands. Believe me, it really opened my eyes to the complexity of corrosion in a marine environment. -- Dave Kruger Astoria, OR *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
"Sailboat Restorations, Inc." wrote: [Re: book on corrosion:] > That's interesting. What tome is this? Here it is. A 1975 issue, not 1978. Still do not have it in my hand. Francis L. LaQue, MARINE CORROSION, Senior Lecturer, Scripps Inst. Oceanography, 1975, ISBN 0-471-51745-3. -- Dave Kruger Astoria, OR *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
The fact is that true marine stainless does corrode (very slightly) this has little or no effect on it's strength. It is advisable to replace a boats standing rigging every ten years or so. But, this is because of the possibility of microscopic cracks in the swaged fittings and possible broken strands in the stainless cable. Richard G, Smith ----- Original Message ----- From: Sailboat Restorations, Inc. <sailboatrestorations_at_worldnet.att.net> To: Dave Kruger <dkruger_at_pacifier.com>; PaddleWise <PaddleWise_at_lists.intelenet.net> Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2000 1:53 PM Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Skeg vs. rudder (plus maint. question) > That's interesting. What tome is this? I have the Caribou, as well, so I > am a bit concerned. But I have been working on sailboats for many years, > and I have never heard it said that ss exposed to salt water "is notorious > for its degradation." Quite the contrary, I have always understood that ss > is one of the best substances to use in a marine environment, second only to > bronze, and preferable to bronze where certain types of strength are > required. Indeed, most modern sailboats use little or no bronze, and use ss > for most everything. For example, most sailboats use ss prop shafts. These > are actually *under* the water all the time, and they generally last a very > very very long time. I'm not suggesting you (or the tome) are wrong, I > would just like to learn a little more about the context and the actual > point that the book in question is making. Thanks. > Mark L. > > > > >I've been reading a tome on marine corrosion, and stainless steel cable > exposed > >to salt water is notorious for its degradation -- and sometimes from the > inside > >out (look up "crevice corrosion" on the Web, if you want more detail). I > have > >not run across anything in the book which is a quick fix. > > > >I'd suggest annual replacement. > > *************************************************************************** > PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not > to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission > Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net > Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net > Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ > *************************************************************************** *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
At 05:53 PM 04/11/2000 -0000, Sailboat Restorations, Inc. wrote: >That's interesting. What tome is this? I have the Caribou, as well, so I >am a bit concerned. But I have been working on sailboats for many years, >and I have never heard it said that ss exposed to salt water "is notorious >for its degradation." Quite the contrary, I have always understood that ss >is one of the best substances to use in a marine environment, second only to >bronze, and preferable to bronze where certain types of strength are >required. Indeed, most modern sailboats use little or no bronze, and use ss >for most everything. For example, most sailboats use ss prop shafts. These >are actually *under* the water all the time, and they generally last a very >very very long time. I'm not suggesting you (or the tome) are wrong, I >would just like to learn a little more about the context and the actual >point that the book in question is making. Thanks. >Mark L. Hi Mark et al! There are more different "stainless" steels than you can imagine, with varying degrees of corrosion resistance. The 300 series steels have probably the best properties in this regard. Look for hardware in 316$$. If you are still experiencing severe corrosion problems with this material, then something besides salt water is at work. Note that even dilute concentrations of HCl will corrode 316 stainless eventually, and stainless is subject to anodic corrosion as well. When in doubt, check the hardware with a magnet; the 316 material is totally non-magnetic. Hope this helps. ByeBye! S. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Well, OK ralph . . . I don't doubt you for a minute. . . . . . . But I don't think the "kayaking marine environment" is any different from the "sailing marine environment." In the latter, it is commonplace that if stainless steel "rusts," it ain't stainless steel, or at least it ain't the *right kind* of ss. There are many levels of quality of ss. Most marine products that I am used to use 304 or 316 ss, fairly high quality. These don't rust. Period. I have had some cheap knives and other products that were supposed to be ss but rusted. These were usually made from castings from the Far East, where standards may be . . . different. As for "fittings for sailing," these can vary in quality, but if they are true 304 or 316 ss they are very unlikely to rust. Certain brands are notorious for being junk (ie, bad castings, lower grade ss, misleading labeling). Not to question you, ralph. <g> But . . . you're wrong. Stainless steel doesn't rust. Mark >Mark, stainless steel rusts badly in a KAYAKING marine environment. I >have all sorts of stainless steel things I can show you with >considerable rust and corrosion. My sheath knife, fittings for sailing, >etc. Also aluminum unless of marine grade or heavily anondized will >also pit or corrode. This ain't from no tome. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Hi All, > [mailto:owner-paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net]On Behalf Of Sailboat > Restorations, Inc. > Not to question you, ralph. <g> But . . . you're wrong. Stainless steel > doesn't rust. > > Mark I think that Ralph is correct here. Actually Stainless can and does rust. I'm no expert but I did work in a boatyard as a welder and metal fabricator and I have definitely seen rusted pitted stainless steel. There are many different grades and I'm sure you could research this fairly quickly on the web. I believe that rust resistance varies with chromium and nickel content. Not sure, there must be a metallurgist here on the list. Again I'm not sure but I believe in certain applications like knife making the steel is has less nickel and chromium to ensure that the blade is "soft" enough to take an edge. So the bottom line (as I understand it)is that some stainless is more corrosion resistant than others. Cheers, -- Rob Cookson 3 Hats Design INTERNET PRINT ILLUSTRATION 5201 15 Ave NW Suite 220 Seattle, WA 98107 206.851.8202 direct line 206.784.1641 main office phone 206.784.2231 main office fax mailto:rob_at_3hats.com http://www.3hats.com *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
I ain't no metallurgist but I dabble with the medium a bit. My understanding is that proper alloy SS will not rust or corrode unless it is subject to electrolytic reaction, contact with certain other metals in a marine (even not so marine) environment. I have seen SS sculpture pristine until the ill considered anchor points- not even submerged. > Actually Stainless can and does rust. I'm no expert but I did work in a > boatyard as a welder and metal fabricator and I have definitely seen rusted > pitted stainless steel. There are many different grades and I'm sure you > could research this fairly quickly on the web. I believe that rust > resistance varies with chromium and nickel content. Not sure, there must be > a metallurgist here on the list. > -- : : Gabriel L Romeu : http://studiofurniture.com furniture from the workshop : http://members.xoom.com/gabrielR life as a tourist, daily journal : http://users.aol.com/romeugp paintings, photographs, etchings, objects *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
> > > I think that Ralph is correct here. > Actually Stainless can and does rust. I'm no expert but I did work in a > boatyard as a welder and metal fabricator and I have definitely seen rusted > pitted stainless steel. If I remember coreectly from my sailboat building days, 304 and 316 were the marine grades to go for. 304 is stronger, less corrosion resistant, good for mast tangs that would be undergoing continuous shock loading, with 316 stainless being more corrosion resistant, slightly less strong. I think even with these two, you can have discoloration, even though they are far more corrosion and pitting resistant than other grades, of which there are many. Have to know what you are buying though, and most retailers/suppliers don't know what grade they are, only say stainless steel. I just bought some ss pop rivets, don't know what grade they are, but they better last a couple of years at $6 a pop (sorry, for the pun). -Nick *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
"Sailboat Restorations, Inc." wrote: > > Well, OK ralph . . . I don't doubt you for a minute. . . . > > . . . But I don't think the "kayaking marine environment" is any different > from the "sailing marine environment." In the latter, it is commonplace > that if stainless steel "rusts," it ain't stainless steel, or at least it > ain't the *right kind* of ss. There are many levels of quality of ss. Most > marine products that I am used to use 304 or 316 ss, fairly high quality. > These don't rust. Period. These are two of the grades of SS studied in the tome I mentioned, and they do corrode in crevices. I have some allegedly SS fittings on the deck of my hardshell which are showing honest rust, but I do not know what alloy of SS they might be. > Not to question you, ralph. <g> But . . . you're wrong. Stainless steel > doesn't rust. Maybe corrode is a better label. I'll get the citation as soon as I can. -- Dave Kruger Astoria, OR *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
At 06:33 pm 11/04/00 +0000, you wrote: >Well, OK ralph . . . I don't doubt you for a minute. . . . > >. . . But I don't think the "kayaking marine environment" is any different >from the "sailing marine environment." In the latter, it is commonplace >that if stainless steel "rusts," it ain't stainless steel, or at least it >ain't the *right kind* of ss. There are many levels of quality of ss. Most >marine products that I am used to use 304 or 316 ss, fairly high quality. >These don't rust. Period. To stop SS "rusting it needs access to air to form an oxide layer. I've seen SS "rusted" were there's been a layer of something else like coffee on a teaspoon I found washed up on the beach. Wire, where it is tightly woven would be a prime candidate. Flexing might be all that's needed to either cure or cause the problem. There can be problems where SS has been welded. Have a look at the pulpits of yachts in the marina next time you are paddling past. SS is the best but not perfect. Rudder lines - I always use 2mm Spectra, if it does break you can tie a knot in it. Alex . . Alex (Sandy) Ferguson Chemistry Department University of Canterbury New Zealand *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Thanks very much, Dave. I'm learning from this, and I appreciate that. Someone else mentioned "rust" on weld spots on yacht hardware. I have certainly seen plenty of examples of that. I always assumed (without knowing) that the culprit was the welding rods used. But clearly I overstated it in saying the ss doesn't rust (or corrode). I just spent a small fortune on new ss fittings for a sailboat (complete rebuild). . . the idea of it rusting sends me into hysterics. Mark >I'll post the complete citation for the book when it is back in my hands. >Believe me, it really opened my eyes to the complexity of corrosion in a marine>environment. >Dave Kruger >Astoria, OR *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
"Sailboat Restorations, Inc." wrote: > Thanks very much, Dave. I'm learning from this, and I appreciate that. > > Someone else mentioned "rust" on weld spots on yacht hardware. I have > certainly seen plenty of examples of that. I always assumed (without > knowing) that the culprit was the welding rods used. But clearly I > overstated it in saying the ss doesn't rust (or corrode). I just spent a > small fortune on new ss fittings for a sailboat (complete rebuild). . . the > idea of it rusting sends me into hysterics. I was a welding inspector in my university student days (that paid my way through) and I saw lots of corroded stainless steel. This included the best quality stainless for nuclear and petrochemical installations. All you have to do is get the right combination of heat, humidity, oxygen supply (or lack, depending) and electrochemical mumble-mumble and you get lots of rust and degradation. And one thing I remember from my sailing days is seeing rust on stainless fittings everywhere. Even sailboats on freshwater will show a little rust from time to time. Stainless means stainless, not rustproof. Mike (who's grumbling to himself because he forgot to rinse his new dive knife after scuba diving one day in the Dominican Republic last week and now has rust spots to clean up :-( ) *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
"Sailboat Restorations, Inc." wrote: > > Someone else mentioned "rust" on weld spots on yacht hardware. I have > certainly seen plenty of examples of that. I always assumed (without > knowing) that the culprit was the welding rods used. But clearly I > overstated it in saying the ss doesn't rust (or corrode). I just spent a > small fortune on new ss fittings for a sailboat (complete rebuild). . . the > idea of it rusting sends me into hysterics. > Thanks very much, Dave. I'm learning from this, and I appreciate that. Me, too. The book surely blew me away. In addition (re: your newly installed SS hardware), there may be special installation procedures and bedding compounds developed since the copyright of the book which reduce crevice corrosion to a nonentity. Doubt cable can be protected, however. If you know how your fittings were bedded, I'd like to know, to compare with the technology extant when this book was written. There have been many advances in marine corrosion prevention since 1978, I expect. -- Dave Kruger Astoria, OR *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
In a message dated 4/11/00 2:49:06 PM Pacific Daylight Time, sullivaned_at_pop.mts.kpnw.org writes: > I have the cable > type (Caribous S); I flush it as well as I can after salt > water contact, and try to spray WD40 up the little tube. Is > there a more effective regime? We advise that people Never use WD40 on paddle ferrules since it turns to goo and welds the paddles together once it has been in contact with salt water. I would avoid using WD40 anywhere on your craft and switch to silicone spray. Re skegs v rudders -- put me down heavily in favor of skegs. A much more satisfying solution to weather helm when your skills are not quite adequate or you need a rest. Not mentioned so far is the fun of running straight down the waves with the skeg fully deployed. Most skegged boats I have tried turn into rockets, blazing down the face of the waves with little or no tendency to broach. Harold. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
>If you know how your fittings were bedded, I'd like to know, to compare with >the technology extant when this book was written. There have been many >advances in marine corrosion prevention since 1978, I expect. I would think so. To answer your question, generally, I use two different types of bedding compounds, depending on the expected "permanence" of the installation. For more permanent items (like a new teak toerail I'm about to install on a 32 foot boat), I will use a polyurethane sealant, most likely 3M 5200. This stuff is incredible. After it cures, expect to have to get out the chain saw to get it off. I have not yet tried it, but 3M makes a less "adhesive" polyurethane called 4200. This would presumably be quite good, as well. For items that I may want to remove in a couple of years (to re-bed, or whatever) (like the eight new ss portlights I'm installing), I will use a polysulfide sealant, like the 3M 101. Polyurethane would make it too difficult to take them out for repairs. I will rarely use a silicone sealant, but for some kayak uses they might be more appropriate. With some of the poly's, you have to be careful about compatibility with plastics. Some of them will eat right through some plastics. For providing a barrier between dissimilar metals, I would imagine most of these would work. My understanding is that the bedding compounds used 25 or 30 years ago (when the boats I work on were built) were quite different. Somewhere, I have some purportedly "technical" explanations of what they were and how they were applied. I read this stuff in passing on the marginal likelihood anything useful might appear, but quickly forget the details. My general impression is that much less thought went into the subject at that time. For example, I am told that the factory that produced my current project (a very highly respected yacht mftr) glopped on the same "compound" on every application in huge quantities. The damn stuff oooooozes out of the hull/deck joint even now (well, not now that I have fiberglassed over it, but before that), and is malleable and largely useless. Leaks at that joint were notorious. 3M 5200 is like some sort of miracle substance by comparison. Leaks? Hah! Unlikely. Yucky to work with, though. Mark *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Every year or so I remove the cable and run a citrus cleaner through the tube. Then I clean the cable and apply a light coating of silicone grease to the cable. The only problem I`ve ever had with the skeg was when I leant the boat to a beginner who promptly capsized then swam the boat ashore (in a small lake) and dropped the boat on a fully extended skeg. It took about 20 minutes to replace the kinked cable. Bob Denton IT Director Aqua-Gulf Transport (Sent from a Palm Pilot) [demime 0.92b removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef] *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
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