[Paddlewise] Night Crossing and One Day Circumnav of Catalina Island

From: <Strosaker_at_aol.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 21:16:42 EDT
Paddlewisers,

Below is the text of the trip report.  If you would like to see photos and 
maps with the text, go to the the trip report webpage at:  
http://hometown.aol.com/pirateseakayaker/cat2.html

Duane


Catalina Island: A Day Crossing, a One Day Circumnavigation, and a Night 
Crossing

by Duane Strosaker

The Day Crossing

On Thursday, June 15, 2000, at 6:15am, six of us launched at Cabrillo Beach 
in San Pedro for the 19 nautical mile (22 statute mile or 35 kilometer) 
crossing to Catalina Island in Southern California.

Chip Hoffman, Roger Halter and Joe Kramp are experienced sea kayakers, but 
this was their first crossing to Catalina.  Joe hadn't even been to Catalina 
by boat before.  Debbie Machain has been sea kayaking for only a year, but 
during that short time, she has been enthusiastic about the sport and spent 
time working on her endurance and skills.  This was her first crossing.  Jim 
Gabriel and I made crossings to and from Catalina last year.

The forecast was for 10 knot winds in the morning and 10-15 knot winds in the 
afternoon.  Right after launching, we had the infrequent good fortune of 
being able to see the island, so we really didn't have to navigate.  
Throughout the crossing, the bearing to the isthmus at Two Harbors barely 
changed, which meant we weren't experiencing any significant drift and didn't 
have to ferry.

Soon after launching, we entered the shipping lanes and experienced traffic.  
We had to stop for one large ship and let it cross in front of us by around 
100 yards.

We landed at the island at 2:00pm, making for a 7 hour and 45 minute 
crossing.  Before and during the crossing, Debbie was feeling ill, so she set 
a slow pace.  The two gallons of water that leaked into the back hatch of her 
new kayak didn't help either.  She discovered the water in the hatch after 
landing.  Her kayak was a Northwest Kayaks carbon kevlar Synergy, which had a 
new hatch system that was defective.  We occasionally had some water washing 
over our decks during the second half of the crossing, but two gallons 
leaking through the hatch was ridiculous.  Needless to say, Debbie wasn't 
happy about the leak.  She used duct tape to seal the back hatch for the 
return crossing.  After the trip, she told me she contacted Northwest Kayaks, 
and they are going to replace her kayak with one that has an improved hatch 
system.

Everyone was slowed down during the last two miles of the crossing, because a 
localized head wind of about 20 knots was funneling through the isthmus at 
Two Harbors on the island.

We camped on a small bluff above the beach at Two Harbors Campground.

The One Day Circumnavigation

Only Jim and I were going to circumnavigate the island.  Initially, we 
planned to do the 43 nautical mile (50 statute mile or 79 kilometer) point to 
point distance in two days with an overnight stop at Little Harbor Campground 
on the back side.  However, a few weeks before the trip, I had the crazy idea 
of circumnavigating the island in one day.  Jim liked the idea too.  We 
decided to keep the one day circumnavigation a secret until the evening 
before doing it, because we never heard of anyone doing it in one day before 
and didn't want anyone to beat us to it.

The weather for the one day circumnavigation on Friday was excellent.  The 
only wind to speak of was a moderate headwind during the last six miles.  
Currents around the island were insignificant, and by looking at the 
direction the kelp was pointing, we saw that the current direction varied.  
The winds and currents didn't really help or hurt us.  A thick layer of 
clouds kept us out of the sun and cool all day long.

Our strategy was to paddle point to point, stay focused on an efficient 
paddle stroke, maintain a moderate pace, and to stay well fueled and 
hydrated.  Surprisingly, we had an enjoyable time.  I thought we were going 
to be miserable after around 24 miles, which was the farthest we had paddled 
before.  We discovered that an efficient paddle stroke at a moderate pace is 
like walking.  At a certain level of fitness, you can do either all day long.

About two-thirds of the way around the island, my right nipple began to burn 
from being rubbed raw against my salt encrusted polypro shirt as my body 
twisted with every paddle stroke.  I solved the problem by covering my nipple 
with duct tape.

We were comfortable enough in our kayaks that we did the circumnavigation 
without landing.  Jim was paddling a plastic Valley Canoe Products Skerray 
with a skeg and used a homemade wooden aleutian paddle, while I was paddling 
a fiberglass Necky Arluk II with a rudder and used a newer Werner Little 
Dipper 220cm with a feather angle of 60 degrees.  Around the island, Jim 
occasionally trolled or cast a lure for fish, but he didn't catch anything.  
Otherwise, we only stopped paddling to eat and drink every 45-60 minutes.

We launched at 5:15am and landed at 7:00pm, making for a 13 hour and 45 
minute circumnavigation.  Our average speed was 3.1 knots (3.6 statute miles 
or 5.8 kilometers per hour).  Afterwards, we celebrated by eating dinner in 
the restaurant at Two Harbors.  Without concern for calories or fat, we drank 
beer, ate a huge appetizer, and then downed steak and ribs.

On that day, the other four had fun hiking, snorkeling and kayaking.  They 
paddled eight nautical miles to and from Parson's Landing.  Along the way, 
they explored sea caves.  While Debbie was in one tight cave, the crest of a 
large wave momentarily closed the entrance.  She had to brace inside and came 
out fine, but there was a chunk of resin missing from her bow.  By the way, 
she is a graduate of the Jeff McNair School of Cave Kayaking.

On Saturday, Jim went kayak fishing for about 6 1/2 hours and paddled 14 
nautical miles to and from Long Point.  He ended up catching only a small 
calico bass.  The rest of us paddle 2 nautical miles to and from Blue Cavern 
Point.  We hugged the coast, looking at the rocks, plant life and fish in the 
clear water below us.  We also explored the sea caves along the way.  
Everyone liked the large cave at Blue Cavern Point.

The Night Crossing

Officially, the plan was to paddle back to the mainland early on Sunday 
morning.  However, at about the same time I thought of the one day 
circumnavigation, I also thought of a Saturday night crossing back.  Jim 
liked the idea too.  Of course, everyone would have to agree to it.  Jim and 
I decided to not propose the night crossing until Saturday evening, because 
we wanted the others to have the confidence of completing the crossing over 
to the island and wanted them to enjoy their time on the island without 
having to contemplate the night crossing.

During lunch on Saturday, there was discussion about buying firewood and beer 
for the night, so I had to propose the night crossing then.  Amazingly, they 
all agreed to it.  Jim and I were shocked and thrilled.

The weather forecast for the night was 10-15 knot winds diminishing to 10 
knots.  There was a full moon, but it was canceled out by a thick layer of 
clouds, which made it dark enough to cause us to use light sticks so we could 
see each other better and stay in a tight group.  Nineteen nautical miles 
across the channel, we could see the lights at our destination on Palos 
Verdes Peninsula, so navigating wasn't a concern.

We launched at 9:55pm on Saturday night.  For the first couple of miles, we 
were once again in the localized wind that funneled through the isthmus on 
the island, but this time it was giving us a push.  For the rest of the 
crossing, we had choppy conditions due to the swell and wind working against 
each other.  Intermittently, the wind picked up, making the choppy conditions 
worse and more tedious to paddle in, especially in the dark.  The first time 
the wind picked up, I was concerned about it persisting, because I knew that 
if it did, the choppy conditions were going to exhaust us and make the 
crossing miserable.  It was a relief when the wind calmed down the first 
time, and having the wind pick up intermittently afterwards was bearable.

No one elected to wear a paddle jacket in the 60 degree F. air.  We were all 
wearing just polypro shirts.  Most of us were cold during the breaks for food 
and water.  It was also cold when the wind picked up and we were splashed by 
66 degree F. water from the chop.  Otherwise, we were warm, and a paddle 
jacket would've been just too hot the way we were working.

Shortly after launching, Chip and Jim were hit by flying fish.  About a 
quarter of the way across, we were startled by dolphins that suddenly started 
jumping within ten feet of us.  Dolphins visited us like this several 
different times.  We had ship traffic closer to San Pedro, but there were no 
close encounters.

With lights at our destination in sight and so little drift on our crossing 
over to the island on Thursday, I wasn't occasionally shining a light on my 
compass to see if the bearing to our destination was changing.  After a 
while, I just happened to pick out a range with some lights on shore.  The 
range indicated we were slowly drifting left.  Jim and I discussed it, and we 
decided that the drift wasn't significant enough to bother with a ferry.

For a while I didn't bother to check the range again.  When I did check it 
again at around 2:00am, I was shocked to see how fast we were drifting.  The 
channel isn't known for fast currents, and tides and currents usually aren't 
a concern in Southern California.  But I remembered that we were in a full 
moon phase and high tide was around 10:00pm on Saturday.  When I checked my 
tide table later, I saw that there was a 6.3 foot drop in the tide from 
9:57pm on Saturday to 5:55am on Sunday.  We were in the middle of the channel 
in the middle of a large tide swing.  The tidal current and the wind were 
taking us for a ride.

I wanted to get the drift under control, so we started with a ferry angle of 
around 20 degrees.  Using the range, I saw we were still drifting left.  Next 
we went into a large ferry angle of around 60 degrees.  I checked the range 
again and saw we were slowly making progress.  We spent around 45 minutes 
paddling at that large ferry angle before getting back on course.  It was 
disconcerting to everyone to paddle so long with our destination to our left 
and so far away, especially with the choppy conditions and everyone already 
being tired.  But everyone stayed tough.  Once we were back on course, a 
ferry angle of around 30 degrees kept us on course.

Everyone made a dry landing through the small surf at Cabrillo Beach at 
5:45am on Sunday, making for a 7 hour and 50 minute crossing.  With Debbie 
not being ill on the crossing back, she was able to maintain a good paddling 
speed.  At the speed we were going, I thought we were going to complete the 
crossing in under 7 hours, but the chop and ferrying for the drift slowed us 
down.

I have to commend the entire group for their performance on the night 
crossing.  Everyone stayed close together, watched out for each other, worked 
as a team, and paddled long and hard.  They really did a great job out there!
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Received on Fri Jun 23 2000 - 18:17:24 PDT

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