Re: [Paddlewise] Surf Swimming Breakouts

From: Doug Lloyd <dlloyd_at_telus.net>
Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 22:19:58 -0800
Peter Treby wrote:

>
> It's not normal practice where I am. In fact I haven't heard of it at this
> end of the continent. The only swimming in surf by sea kayakers I've
> witnessed has definitely not been a deliberate tactic! <snip>

Thanks for the response Peter (and David too). I knew Paul C. sometimes swam in
with his Nordkapp on the big Aussie trip, but I had never heard of dealing with
breakouts in such a manner.

Breakouts in difficult surf can be a chore due to a couple of problems: both
size and irregularity. The recent post by Matt with video clip shows some wild
surf, but not overly huge; but, I bet it was work to get out. On-shore wind can
sure screw things up. If I recall, last year's Surf Frolic was also well
attended but, many participants backed out part way, due to the size of the
surf.

I like my big surf on a sandy beach, as well as my erratic surf there too. It
can be very hard to see waves interacting with rocks in the surf zone (as at La
Push) in an erratic sea. Likewise, big surf and rocks can spell disaster. I'm
fairly hardcore, but I do like a soft landing!

David mentions a certain methodology for getting over big waves and clearing the
surf zone. I find taking the surf at a bit of an angle avoids some of the
pounding as you crest the peak over to the other side. If possible, I try to
take a vector that allows my on-side brace to take the big waves if I mistime
etc. When I'm touring the open coast, I use different tactics with a loaded boat
on remote shorelines. I've even gone out backwards. Recreational kayak surfing
is another issue, and I try to get a trashed as the body and boat will allow.

Just a couple of house-keeping notes. I bought a scanner this weekend, so can
send folks pics when questions of boat accessories, etc, come up (a pic is worth
a thousand verbal diarhea words). My computer was down all weekend +, so
backchannel replies to recent e-mails are way behind. Blanket apology - will get
to them. Gabriel wants a bunch of my pics for a CD-ROM, so I forked out the
dough for a scanner. He is such a patient, nice guy.

And thanks to all the recent ice and snow trip reports. So when is Vince going
to try surfing waves onto ice crusts? Vancouver Island is still in a warm
episode (much warmer than Washington/Oregon). Estavane reached a record 15 C
during a storm's warm front the other day, while north of there at Brooks, it
was blowing 70 knots with 8 metre seas. Weird winter weather, but I'm not
complaining (other than can't be there)..

BTW, the recent death on a Seattle lake should remind us all to keep within the
levels of our skill -- surfing, touring, or otherwise. Preparation, training,
knowing your individual limits, knowing your environment, and having the right
gear are all indivisible elements contiguous with a safe attitude.

DL (still playing hard, but hopefully, safely -- I may die figuring out this
computer stuff, though)


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Received on Mon Jan 08 2001 - 22:22:45 PST

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