Re:[Paddlewise] Baja

RE Baja:

You do not mention previous sea kayaking experience-beyond
backpacking.   Baja can be  a stern teacher of sea kayaking. 
Inexperienced paddlers have been badly spanked, and some have been
lost.  Though the Sea of Cortez may not have the long distance  swells
of the Pacific, it can  develop  10 foot seas  when El Norte blows down
hundreds of miles of fetch, which can last for days.   Also,  sudden 35
knot offshore winds can arise-like those that killed several people in
Bahia de Los Angeles last year when a researcher's  boat was flipped.  
IMHO, when paddling in  Baja in big seas with heavily loaded
boats-especially with beam winds, beginners will  benefit from 
rudders.   (Just MHO-please don't reopen this topic.)

The surrounding land is Sonoran desert with little or no available water
on the more remote stretches.    Water must be carried-up to 13 days
supply _at_ 1 gal/person/day.  You must protect water bags in kayak hard
hatches from coyotes, who will dig in the bottoms of arroyos, often near
palm trees to find a meager supply of water.   I saw a grown man nearly
cry last winter when  a coyote got into a 5-liter bag of wine on the
first night out on a San Felipe to Loreto trip with some friends last
winter. 

Kayak rentals around Loreto can be hard to come by.  Villas de Loreto
will rent some boats if one  bundles the deal with lodging there before
and after at  around $70 + per night.  By comparison, going rates at a
small hotel facing the church square run 25-35 per night.    Paddling
South has been reluctant to rent  their kayaks-especially to
inexperienced paddlers.  One can see  the advantage to taking guests out
with the boats  _at_ $1000/trip.  

 Ecomundo on Bahia Conception south of Mulege will rent kayaks,
including double Tangos.    Bahia Conception is a slightly more
forgiving place to learn kayaking.  Also, Ecomundo  has some reasonable
palapas to rent for a stay before and after  paddling.    You can get
there by bus from Loreto, by giving the driver a small tip for an
unscheduled stop.   

The Marine Park surrounding Loreto, has wrought some protection for both
the marine environment and also for some of the outfitters doing
business from Loreto.   The biggest manifestation I've seen of the park,
are  the shiny new Dodge pickups that park employees drive around
Loreto.  You must register with both the Port Captain's office and the
Marine Park office, and reserve campsites on the islands- and even
register for campsites  on the coast-if you are to follow the regs.  
There have been reports of outfitters  turning in private parties that
did not have proper permits for camping on the islands.    Per regs, 
groovers are  required, as well as radios.   Practice may vary; we
avoided contact  last year.   Most commercial trips carry  the Boombox
toilets on the back deck of doubles.  

A good starting point would be one of Ed Gillet's trips or classes. 
They are not catered like the higher cost ones, but you will learn  a 
lot from Ed.    He has forgotten more about Baja and kayaking than some
of the "guides" elsewhere  presently know, IMHO.   I've heard rumors
that Ed and Katie may be changing their operations.  Call them (619)
222-3616 or check the site http://www.swkayak.com  They have posted lots
of good info there. 

Lest you think by the tone of this post that I'm down on Baja, I'm not. 
I've  paddled over 1000 miles there,  and will go back soon.  With each
trip one can see changes-more development, increased regulation, etc. 
Matt's comments re LaPaz and in general re Baja  are excellent.   It's
still an amazing place.  

Regards,
Jay  -Alma,CO
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