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From: Mark Mastalski <mastalski_at_engr.wisc.edu>
subject: [Paddlewise] Paddling to Isle Royale
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 08:42:00 -0600
Hi to all Paddlewisers,
Three friends and I are planning on paddling the crossing to Isle Royale in 
Lake Superior later this summer, probably around late August.  I'm 
wondering if anyone out there has experienced paddling this crossing?  If 
so, where did you start (Minnesota, Canada or Wisconsin?) and where did you 
paddle to?  How long did the crossing take you?  Any ideas or suggestions 
would be appreciated.  Of if you have any hot spots to check out once we've 
arrived, let me know that too.  I've been to IR before and loved it, but 
this will be the first time actually paddling to it.  Heck, taking the 
ferry is a bumpy enough ride, I can't wait to paddle it!

Thanks,

Mark
___________________________________
Mark Mastalski, Assistant Director
Cooperative Education & Internship Program
University of Wisconsin - Madison
1415 Engineering Drive, Room 1150
Madison, WI  53706-1619
(608) 262-7504
www.engr.wisc.edu/services/ecs


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From: <wanewman_at_uswest.net>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Paddling to Isle Royale -Long &Tedious?
Date: Sun, 07 Jan 2001 00:34:17 -0600
Hi Mark,

Bill Newman here.

 Sarah Ohmann and I, wrote the Globe Pequot guide book "Guide to Sea Kayaking
Lake Superior and Lake Michigan".  Sarah has a pretty good mile by mile
description of entire coast of Isle Royale (Route 12 pages 55-63).  Honest it
won't hurt our feelings if you run to library and xerox this route.  We did not
describe the cross to the Island because we did not want to touch the liability
with a ten-foot pole.  If you read the route description we don't even suggest
that the crossing is a legitimate possilbility.

That said both Sarah and I have crossed out to the island in our kayaks, and
for an expert paddler with plenty of time budgeted to wait for good weather it
is an option.  It is a serious crossing and I do worry that even if you and
your friends are very strong paddlers you might get into trouble by having a
big crossing at both the beginning and end of a limited vacation time.  If you
get caught short of time at the end of your vacation it is all to easy to be
tempted into crossing when the weather is a little bit iffy rather than the
perfect weather you should have waited for....

I last paddled out there over the fourth of July weekend in 1997 as part of a
training trip for a bigger Lake Superior crossing.  We started from the mouth
of the mouth of the Pigeon River on the indian reservation and crossed out to
Rock of Ages lighthouse and then on into Washington Harbor.  The mouth of the
river can be accessed by a dirt road that splits off to the right of the
highway immediately before the U.S/Canadian border.  Officially the launch
point at Pigeon River is closed to non-tribal members - unofficially a fair
number of non-indian locals use the access.

If you must use this launch point leave a note on your car so the local tribal
game warden will not panic if he sees a vehicle there for a number of days and
assumes the worst.  From there you can quickly paddle a couple of miles to the
end of Pigeon Point and then about (about 15? statue miles) to Rock of Ages
Lighthouse.  Note that unless the weather is excellent you won't be able to
land at the island (big rock!) so you need to plan on another 3 statute miles
to get safely into Washington Harbor.

If you want to make the crossing from Pigeon Point to Washington Harbor it is
probably better to lauch from harbor in Grand Portage and paddle up through the
Susie Islands to the north side of Pigeon Point where there is a snug little
cove where you could spend the night.  I don't want broadcast this location to
too many people but I could give you the details off-list.  Note that the Susie
Islands are also tribal land so you are officially trespassing if you stop on
them.  Unofficially you are probably ok stopping on them for a day-trip, but
please don't camp overnight on them.  Kayakers have a good relationship with
the tribe and we don't want to spoil that by being disrespectful of their
property rights.  An easy day trip of less than 15 miles takes you up the coast
through the islands to the good campsite on Pigeon Point.  From there you could
leave first thing in the morning and from camp to Washington Harbor you could
make a trip of about 20 miles.

When we came back to the mainland we did so by crossing from Amygdaloid Island
to Silver Islet in Canada.  This is a crossing of about 22 statute miles but it
takes you from one snug harbor to another good harbor behind the many long thin
Islands including Amygdaloid.  Note that in doing this you are crossing from
Canada to the U.S. or the other way round without being anywhere near a customs
check in point.  To do so legally you should drive to the border at the Pigeon
River and spend about $20 to get a remote area border crossing permit.

However you go this is a big crossing that should not be taken lightly.
Although you can find a crossing on the map from say Pigeon Point to some
God-Forsaken Rock like Rock of Ages that is 15 miles or so distant, you really
need to paddle 20 statute miles or more to get from one safe harbor to the next
safe harbor.  A 20 mile crossing is not like paddling a 20 mile coastal day
trip.  With great weather and a strong group you can polish it off in 5 hours,
but with a head wind and unexpected bad weather it can become a 20 hour
nightmare.

When we came back from Amygdaloid Island to Silver Islet we had a good weather
forcast with some fog in the morning that was burning off by about 10:00 AM so
we had good visability before we got near any shipping traffic.  In spite of
the good forcast we got nailed by a thunderstorm that hammered us with 30 knot
head winds heavy rain and lots of thunder and lightening for about an hour just
6 miles from Silver Islet.  The weather can easily take an unexpected turn in 5
or 6 hours so unless you should not consider doing the crossing if you are not
willing to handle the worst weather that could pop up in that time.

Someone else mentioned the hazards of fog and the shipping traffic.  The
commercial traffic is not that heavy in this area.  We only had one ship cross
our path on the 22 mile return crossing.  However I would avoid the crossing if
you thick fog is going to be a problem.  Also you may want to make a Security
call on the VHF giving your departure location, destination, departure time
speed and heading.  That would at least improve the chance that the ships will
be looking for you as you cross.

The best weather in terms of light winds and moderate seas is usually in early
summer  June and  July although the Lake and the Island can be quite cold that
early in the season.  On our fourth of July trip the Lialacs were just starting
to flower on Belle Isle (Isle Royale), and in Silver Islet.  It was unusually
cold that weekend with the maxium air temperature over the 4th of July weekend
being about 50 F lows in the high 30s and low 40s.  I would plan on having a
Gortex drysuit available for your crossing and I would wear it unless the
weather and the water are unsually warm if you cross in early summer.  Although
calm weather is more likely in late June or July you have a much higher
probability of running into fog as warm moist air from the mainland blows out
over the 50 degree Lake Superior water.  For relatively calm weather with
warmer temperatures and less fog the first half of August is probably best.
The second half of August the winds start to pick up as Fall approaches and you
can get some rather unpleasent weather some years.

I hope this helps give you better information to decide whether to cross to the
island.  If you lack a flexible schedule and expert kayaking skill I would
stick to the ferry.  With a little weather or bad luck a big crossing can go
from boring and uncomfortable to a horrible horrible ordeal.  The two longest
Great Lakes crossings that I have done were not the least bit fun.  During the
85 statute mile crossing of Lake Michigan we got nailed with 25 knot headwinds
and 3-5 foot seas for about six hours and while paddling all night in that mess
two of the four of our group got sea sick and had to be towed as they tossed
their cookies all over each others spray skirts.  On the 67 mile crossing that
I did from Stannard Rock Lighthouse to Caribou Islet I got sea sick paddling at
night in fog and had the longest most unpleasant night of my life.  I am not
prone to sea sickness and that was the first time it had ever hit me in a
kayak.  I was able to continue paddling for the 35 miles or so left after I got
sick but I was very very lucky to have good weather and a paddling partner who
let me lay my head on his deck every 30 minutes to puke and nap..

An unexpected head wind, a sea sick or injured paddler in your group or a bit
of fog could easily make your crossing become a most unpleasant adventure.
Summer weather for an Isle Royal trip will probably be pretty good with 3 foot
seas or less on a good forcast and winds of 10-20 knots or less.  However it is
not that uncommon to have a late August storm kick up 8-10 foot seas and winds
over 30 knots so be very careful to wait for good weather.







Mark Mastalski wrote:

> Hi to all Paddlewisers,
> Three friends and I are planning on paddling the crossing to Isle Royale in
> Lake Superior later this summer, probably around late August.  I'm
> wondering if anyone out there has experienced paddling this crossing?  If
> so, where did you start (Minnesota, Canada or Wisconsin?) and where did you
> paddle to?  How long did the crossing take you?  Any ideas or suggestions
> would be appreciated.  Of if you have any hot spots to check out once we've
> arrived, let me know that too.  I've been to IR before and loved it, but
> this will be the first time actually paddling to it.  Heck, taking the
> ferry is a bumpy enough ride, I can't wait to paddle it!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mark
>


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