----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Scherrer" <Flatpick_at_teleport.com> > > ahhhh yes grasshopper but when you are sliding down the wave the stern is > actually well buried in the pile and IMHO very important. Won't the edges > and volume aft either keep the stern floating <boxy stern> or let it sink > into the pile <rounded, pointy stern> ?? Steve, I'm not sure we're envisioning the same scenario. I am talking about smaller wind waves, with no pile. Also I describe correcting a broach once it has started, but while the boat is still pointing forward down the wave. The boat has not fully broached, but is only 30 degrees or so off course from straight down the wave. At this angle, most sea kayaks (and indeed most paddlers) are beyond the point of no return in terms of preventing the broach. I was surprised to find that I was able to recover from this point in the broach, and continue on surfing the same wave. But back to your question, I really don't think the last 2-3 feet of the stern has much impact while the boat is only 30 degrees off course and into the broach. Often times it will be out of the water, and when it does hit the water, it will act to correct the broach, not enhance it. So in this case, a sharp, pointy stern would help. But again, this effect is much less important than the ability of the amidships hull to break free from the wave while the paddler to gives a HARD rudder stroke and maintains the proper edging angle of the kayak. > > > > One thing that whitewater boat designers have learned is that the chine > > needs to be really sharp for flat spinning. Soft hard chines just don't > > work, so boats like Mariners with their softly defined chine would likely > > have some trouble in this maneuver. Note, I am trying to make a > distinction > > between the rounded chines and less-sharp hard chines (e.g. soft). > > yeah but with the ww boats they are gaining sooooo much wetted surface with > the *planeability* of a crisp, flat edge. With a sea boat you need to hit a > compromise. > > Yep, the knock against my Arctic Tern is that it is a little slower than a round-hull boat due to the extra wetted surface area of the crisp hard chine. I'll take a 5% reduction in cruising speed any day for maximizing rough water and surfing performance! Incidently, it is my theory that whitewater boats need wide flat hulls with lots of wetted surface area because of the paddler's inability to hold a boat perfectly flat to the wave's local surface. This is a crutch for non-pro paddlers like me. A 23" wide flat bottom rodeo boat would spin just as well a 26" boat if the paddler is good enough. However a wider boat is probably an enhancement for balanced volume distribution during cartwheeling, and hence we'll never see a supper skinny rodeo boat (only squirt boats). You're going to add me to the email list for Columbia River surf mongrels, right? Cheers, Kevin *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************Received on Thu Jan 17 2002 - 11:46:32 PST
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