Veracruz Trip Report (1/16 to 1/20/02) Raphael Meir, founder, designer, and manufacturer of the new Performa kayak, invited me down to Veracruz, Mexico, on the spur of the moment to do some kayaking with him and to look over some new designs. I was really impressed with not only Veracruz^Rs kayaking potential, but with the city^Rs beauty, charm, and unique personality as well. Never having visited the Gulf side of Mexico before, I found Veracruz a fascinating blend of the old Mexico as well as the new, but without much of the excessive commercialism of other Mexican posh artificial resort areas. The city is natural, fun-loving, and full of music, dance, and history. It seemed to me like a Hispanic New Orleans, a fun city for lovers! I flew into Mexico City from Matamoros on the Texas border (180 mile drive from Corpus Christi), then over Pico de Orizaba before swooping down to Veracruz on the Gulf. Seeing Mexico City by air puts the world^Rs largest city into perspective; it^Rs size is mind boggling! Flying over Pico de Orizaba, Mexico^Rs highest mountain peak rising to 18,265 ft, I was able to look down at the snow capped mountain and see steam coming out of the volcano cone at the top. Pre-Columbian Indians called it the Citlaltepetl, or ^SMountain of the Star^T. It is visible far out to sea, and the volcano served as a beacon for ships navigating the Gulf during the early days of the Spanish colonies. I arrived at Veracruz at 5pm Wednesday, 1/16/02, and was met by Raphael at the airport, complete with kayak. We immediately went to the Gulf as it sprawled around the city of Veracruz to do some paddling in the surf. It was balmy and dark when we launched. With a new kayak, new paddle, and new environment, I felt very uneasy for the first time. I left my eye glasses in the car (lost my eyeglass safety tie) and was not able to see the rocks here and there in the water as clearly as I would like. But I could see the city lights, sparkling like jewelry from the water. Beautiful paddle. Slept sound that night. Early Thursday, Raphael and I paddled out the Boca Del Rio river connecting the Gulf to a large lagoon. The water was very warm (high 70^Rs) and the homes along the river were beautiful with their tropical gardens basking in the early morning sun. Then we drove about 80 miles southeast of Veracruz to Alvarado, a small fishing town that lies on the isthmus between the Gulf and a very large inland lagoon that would take days to circumnavigate. There are crocodiles on some of the islands in the lagoon. We spent the afternoon surfing in large beautifully formed surf rolling in on the Gulf beach, and then had a fantastic fresh fish dinner at an authentic thatched hut restaurant on the beach. It was one of the most enjoyable meals I have ever had....great cooking, great view, and the sound of the surf just feet away. The President of Mexico had dine here earlier. That evening, we strolled through the Zocalo, a beautifully lighted town square with a large band, dancing, and many strolling musical groups playing from cafe to cafe ringing the square. A colonial cathedral is on the north side of the square, and under its high-domed mosaic ceiling, the clinking of glasses at the nearby Parroquia is barely audible. On another side of the Zocalo is the Palacio Municipal, a beautiful Moorish-influenced building constructed in 1627. It's Italian-style tower, whose bell once rang to announce each ship arrival, was added a century later. We also dropped by the Gran Cafe de la Parroquia. It is a place to see, be seen, and be served fantastic cafe con leche and food professional waters that would put many restaurants in New York to shame. Place is crowded but relaxed, with musicians strolling from table to table while the patrons enjoy their food. Another sound night^Rs sleep! Friday we paddled with a local group of kayakers from one of their homes on the water at Boca del Rio. These are hard core paddlers, with the latest in racing paddles and racing kayaks. The four of us paddled about five miles across the Gulf in front of Veracruz, stopping at a popular swimming beach in front of a large hotel for a break before returning. Reminded me of the paddle across San Diego Bay where we stopped at the popular tourist area for coffee before returning. A little more sight seeing, and then to bed to get some sleep before an early Saturday morning departure. I really fell in love with Veracruz, a young spirited fun-loving music-filled city on the water. What more could you ask for. The food was fantastic, and it is now a destination for more long-term paddling adventures. The area just to the north up to Tuxpan also boasts beautiful white sand beaches and great paddling. And about 150 miles northwest of Veracruz is the El Tajin Archaeological site (A.D. 600-900) that is considered the most important of the Classic Veracruz sites. It is off the beaten track, surrounded by hills and jungle. Archaeologists have uncovered more than 200 temples and 17 ball courts . The pyramids here have a unique, almost oriental look. The Temple of the Niches has 365 niches constructed in it, matched to the days in a year, where keepers of the temple set flames burning in each niche. The largest of the buildings is the Building of the Columns, towering seven stories high. Next time I will drive down rather than fly, and explore the Gulf coast on the way. If anyone has questions or needs help in planning their trip to this area, feel free to contact me (johnsonkw_at_earthlink.net) or Rafael Mier (sildriel_at_ciateq.mx) for assistance. Pictures of the trip are posted on page 2 at http://community.webshots.com/user/johnsonkw1 Ken Johnson ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
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