Hi PaddleWisers, I want to make neoprene cockpit covers for myself and a friend and need some paddle wisdom. Most of what I've read talks about glueing the neoprene with cement. Is this preferable to sewing, or do you recommend sewing *and* glueing? Will sewing compromise the strength of the material? And, can a household machine handle neoprene? Does glueing with the right cement create a strong enough bond alone? so many questions! Many thanks for any help, S Casey Jorgensen _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
From: "Casey Jorgensen" <scjorg_at_hotmail.com> > I want to make neoprene cockpit covers for myself and a friend and need some > paddle wisdom. Most of what I've read talks about glueing the neoprene with > cement. Is this preferable to sewing, or do you recommend sewing *and* > glueing? A cockpit cover or a skirt? I've made several cockpit covers out of coated nylon pack cloth (approx 400 denier). This is more than adequate; I think neoprene would be overkill. I just trace the outline of the coaming and add a couple of inches all round. I then roll the edge to make a generous hem. At the back, a large buttonhole allows a length of bungie cord to run through the hem and out the cover. I use a cordlock to allow the bungie to be tightened and attach a length of webbing with a hook to the front. This hook attaches to the deck bungies, just in case. Once the bungie is tightened, it holds snug. I've had no problems with the covers on the composite sea kayaks, but the cover on my plastic WW kayak once slipped off while driving - the webbing and hook held it on (I had loaded the kayak with gear, including a friend's improperly stuffed sleeping bag - the bag started expanding and popped the cover!) > Will sewing compromise the strength of the material? Yes, but probably not significantly. Many neoprene products are sewn. > And, can a household machine handle neoprene? Not likely, I've not been able to get two layers of 3mm neoprene under the presser foot - there's not enough room. I hadn't tried using a zigzag stitch and just butting the edges of the neoprene together. Perhaps a very light neoprene (1-2 mm) would work. Unless you have a real need for neoprene, I'd recommend going with cheaper and easier to work with nylon. Mike *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Casey wrote: >>> Will sewing compromise the strength of the material? And, can a household machine handle neoprene? <<< I once modified a 3 mm wetsuit on a household sewing machine. It worked OK. Since the neoprene is covered with some kind of fabric, there is no risk of damaging the material so much it will loose its strength. A problem is, that my machine can NOT handle a double layer of neoprene. I had to put the pieces side by side and attach them with the broadest zigzag ( Is that understandable English?). This means you can put together two seperate pieces of neoprene, but it is not possible to make a tube, like you would need for a shirt or pants. In the case of a neoprene cover, you'd have to attach a bungy to the neoprene. That can't be done on a household sewing machine, at least not on mine. I make a lot of my own clothes, including paddling clothes, but a hatch cover I would get from the store. Niels. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
> In the case of a neoprene cover, you'd have to attach a bungy to the > neoprene. That can't be done on a household sewing machine, at least not on > mine. I make a lot of my own clothes, including paddling clothes, but a > hatch cover I would get from the store. Not me! I fI need a hatch cover (without the necessarity to be waterproof), I put the stuff over the bungee and sew it behind, so the bungee runs free inside the tube (?). Thats enough and works quite well. I sew my own sprayskirts also. Then I HAVE to sew a bungee to the stuff and thats a little bit more complicate, for sure. But after some thinking, itīs no problem at all. Sew it by hand! I take a 8mm bungee and fix the one end, stretch it to the strength I like to have for my sprayskirt (an da little bit more) and fix it also. Then I start sewing the sprayskirt to the bungee with a hand sewing awl (comes from the US) you can get by sailors equipment. The hand sewing thread is a very durable waxed nylon thread, which holds a lot. The needle is a special salimaking needle. The thread runs from inside the wal throught the head and along the needle and at the top through itself. Start at the middle back part of the sprayskirt, stitch quite normal in about 5mm wide stitches. With the hand sewing awl you can make the SAME stitch pattern like by an sewing machine, donīt pull to much, when the bungee will be re-stretched the seam wil be strong enough. Only problem are the round areas on the sprayskirt. The bungee is stretched in a line and within the round parts you canīt gon on with sewing. So on every sprayskirt I have to re-stretch the bungee about 5-9 times and have to stretch it again, but th enew end for the bungee fixed to something is the point 2cm where you had sewed yet, then you can sew the bungee for a while (depends on the roundness/pattern of the sprayskirt) until you have to re-stretch again aso... This System is also easy to repair sprayskirts where the bungee had gone of. You only have to stretch the bungee until the sprayskirt stuff is running a line, fix it and sew the bungee. You donīt have to buy a new one. Iīve used my canoe-polo sprayskirt quite a long time, but Iīve never got problems with the bungee, it always fits 100 per cent on the cockpit. Itīs a little bit hard for me to explain it in english, normally its hard enough in german. :-))) On every new hand sewing awl is a well understandable instruction how to use. But Iīve seen a friend who was unable to understand it, so if there are some questions left, ask me and I will do my very best :-)) best regards Jochen *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
> In the case of a neoprene cover, you'd have to attach a bungy to the > neoprene. That can't be done on a household sewing machine, at least not on > mine. I make a lot of my own clothes, including paddling clothes, but a > hatch cover I would get from the store. Not me! I fI need a hatch cover (without the necessarity to be waterproof), I put the stuff over the bungee and sew it behind, so the bungee runs free inside the tube (?). Thats enough and works quite well. I sew my own sprayskirts also. Then I HAVE to sew a bungee to the stuff and thats a little bit more complicate, for sure. But after some thinking, itīs no problem at all. Sew it by hand! I take a 8mm bungee and fix the one end, stretch it to the strength I like to have for my sprayskirt (an da little bit more) and fix it also. Then I start sewing the sprayskirt to the bungee with a hand sewing awl (comes from the US) you can get by sailors equipment. The hand sewing thread is a very durable waxed nylon thread, which holds a lot. The needle is a special salimaking needle. The thread runs from inside the wal throught the head and along the needle and at the top through itself. Start at the middle back part of the sprayskirt, stitch quite normal in about 5mm wide stitches. With the hand sewing awl you can make the SAME stitch pattern like by an sewing machine, donīt pull to much, when the bungee will be re-stretched the seam wil be strong enough. Only problem are the round areas on the sprayskirt. The bungee is stretched in a line and within the round parts you canīt gon on with sewing. So on every sprayskirt I have to re-stretch the bungee about 5-9 times and have to stretch it again, but th enew end for the bungee fixed to something is the point 2cm where you had sewed yet, then you can sew the bungee for a while (depends on the roundness/pattern of the sprayskirt) until you have to re-stretch again aso... This System is also easy to repair sprayskirts where the bungee had gone of. You only have to stretch the bungee until the sprayskirt stuff is running a line, fix it and sew the bungee. You donīt have to buy a new one. Iīve used my canoe-polo sprayskirt quite a long time, but Iīve never got problems with the bungee, it always fits 100 per cent on the cockpit. Itīs a little bit hard for me to explain it in english, normally its hard enough in german. :-))) On every new hand sewing awl is a well understandable instruction how to use. But Iīve seen a friend who was unable to understand it, so if there are some questions left, ask me and I will do my very best :-)) best regards Jochen *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Casey Jorgensen wrote: > I want to make neoprene cockpit covers for myself and a friend and need some > paddle wisdom. Most of what I've read talks about glueing the neoprene with > cement. Is this preferable to sewing, or do you recommend sewing *and* > glueing? Others have pretty much covered the bases on this. I suspect Casey wants his cockpit covers to remain tight, hence the neoprene. If that's your aim, Casey, consider a strip of neoprene separating the center nylon piece from a second piece of nylon forming the tube the bungie runs in. The neoprene will stretch and tension the whole cover. More work than a one-piece, and two seams to seal, but what the hell, it's winter. At least you haven't any hides to chew! <joke> I'm certain a home sewing machine will handle a neoprene/coated nylon overlapped seam. Use a walking foot to ease the stitching. Like others, I have no confidence in doing two layers of neoprene on a home machine. I predict lots of frustration and cursing if you try. For the record, Penny Schwyn did a bang-up job installing a relief zipper in a farmer john wet suit about five years ago. Not sure she is still doing neoprene. If I had to join neoprene slabs, I'd Aquaseal the edges together, run a wide zig-zag stitich to enclose the seal, then lay on a thin coating of Aquaseal (to the outside if this seam will contact your flesh). The last ensures the needle pricks do not cause leakage. Penny's Web site has a wealth of tips and info on outdoor sewing: http://www.specialtyoutdoors.com./ -- Dave Kruger Astoria, OR *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
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