Thanks Doug for that link to the above. And I loved Ralph D's story about kite wars over NY! Wow, you sure breed 'em tough over there in the Big Apple! The kite Doug pointed us to, reminds me of a similar kite I saw in the UK some 15 years ago. Designed by one of those madcap eccentric inventors the English seem to always have around. In shape, rather like an oversized flattened American football, but with right-angled sides. Hard to describe but the same idea as those rigid radar reflectors you often see in the rigging of sailboats. The kite was tied at its axis, ie the pointy bits of the football so it spun on its axis in the wind. It was easy to launch, spinning as it climbed into the sky. For those of you who know London, I saw this kite demonstrated in Hyde Park, and it triggered an alert on the radars at Heathrow Airport. I guess it was flying a fair way above ground level. Not bad for a kite about a foot long, made of metallised nylon. I had no use for an aerial radar reflector in the middle of London so didn't buy one.. kick myself now. It folded down to nothing, flew from a very light line as it had no torque to speak of, and would have been an ideal safety device for long distance sea-kayaking. Never saw the kite again, so presumed it did not make it into commercial production. But if you're a handy-person, might make a decent sort of project.. Peter Rattenbury, Wollongong, Australia. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
At 03:21 pm 23/03/2002 +1100, you wrote: >Thanks Doug for that link to the above. And I loved Ralph D's story about >kite wars over NY! Wow, you sure breed 'em tough over there in the Big >Apple! Sounds like every-day India, or Nepal etc. where people (adults and kids) fly kites for the competion, not for relaxation. In Japan it can get really serious with a whole village taking on the one across the river - one kite per village in the air, a great herd of people flying each kite and more getting the replacements ready - annual event. We're talking BIG here. >The kite Doug pointed us to, reminds me of a similar kite I saw in the UK >some 15 years ago. In shape, rather like an oversized >flattened American football, but with right-angled sides. >The kite was tied at its axis, ie the pointy bits of the football so it spun >on its axis in the wind. It was easy to launch, spinning as it climbed >into the sky. >Never saw the kite again, so >presumed it did not make it into commercial production. Saw one a couple of months ago, they are on sale here in NZ and are known in the US as a UFO. Can be metalised foam for lightness. Do you want one? Can arrange shipping and.... (sorry no commercials.......).!!!!! Alex . . *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
>The kite Doug pointed us to, reminds me of a similar kite I saw in the UK >some 15 years ago. In shape, rather like an oversized >flattened American football, but with right-angled sides. >The kite was tied at its axis, ie the pointy bits of the football so it spun >on its axis in the wind. It was easy to launch, spinning as it climbed >into the sky. >Never saw the kite again, so >presumed it did not make it into commercial production. >>>Saw one a couple of months ago, they are on sale here in NZ and are known in the US as a UFO. Can be metalised foam for lightness. Do you want one? Can arrange shipping and.... (sorry no commercials.......).!!!!! It's already available in the US, from Edmund Scientifics, a well known science junkie's mecca. They are not in the popular retail business anymore, but the operation was sold to a company in Buffalo. Here's the location for that kite: http://www.scientificsonline.com/Products/DisplayProduct.cfm?productid=1596 Joe P.. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Paddlewisers -- Can anyone share any tips for refinishing a Klepper A-II frame? The frame was made in 1957 and some of the original varnish is flaking off. The frame hasn't been used very much and does not show the black spots that (I think) come from mildew growing under the varnish (it gets in where there are nicks or scratches.) Specific questions I have: 1) Should I use a chemical stripper, or sandpaper and elbow grease? 2) Does anyone advocate removal of the fittings? This seems like it would really lengthen the job. Is masking the fittings necessary? Is there a good idea for masking the fittings besides masking tape? 3) Once the old varnish has been removed, is there any treatment that I should consider before applying the new varnish? 4) What type of varnish should I use? Should I apply with a brush or dip the wood into the varnish? How many coats? 5) How long should the job take? Thanks for your help, Matt *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
In a message dated 3/25/2002 10:06:20 PM Eastern Standard Time, matt_at_sabine.acs.psu.edu writes: > ... Can anyone share any tips for refinishing a Klepper A-II frame? The > frame was made in 1957 and some of the original varnish is flaking off. ... Elbow grease to take the frame members back to the bare wood is the preferred method if you want to "do the job right." Chemical stripers can leave you with pockets of nasty surprises unless you rinse the then unprotected wood very thoroughly with (then contaminated!) water and dry carefully ... which may result in twisting and warping. Removing the fittings would strictly speaking be proper procedure, but is probably not really necessary; you say that only some of the varnish is flaking off at this stage and that there is no staining, so the varnish barrier has been largely intact up to now, even around the critical corners of fittings. As long as those corners are carefully prepared to accept the new coats of varnish, working around the fittings should give you perfectly workable results. Treating the wood with a good oil (cocktail) prior to varnishing, even if not all the varnish has been stripped, will go a long way towards lasting protection of the frame. Just be careful that the (linseed- tung-, etc. -oil, "boiled"!) does not contact the hull skin. Given the birth year of your boat, the hull material will be based on natural rather than synthetic rubber ("hypalon"). The former can rapidly deteriorate in the presence of oil. By the same token you should also wait for the varnish to cure fully (i.e., for the oils to evaporate or polymerize; timing according to suppliers info) before bringing it into contact with the skin again. Since varnishing, especially the prepping required for a workmanlike job, can turn into such a chore, there is a dedicated group of wood framed folding boaters out there (with non-natural-rubber hull skins!), who swear by merely wiping the frame members down with above mentioned oil concoctions at the beginning of each season - on the first warmish, sunny, wind still day of spring, for example - subsequently letting the oil polymerize outdoors while enjoying the sight over a well deserved adult beverage of their choice while hanging over the fence yakking with the neighbor in complete relaxation (almost as good as paddling, they say). With just a little care that frame will be good for the next 45 years!! Best regards, Ralph Ralph_at_PouchBoats.com www.PouchBoats.com *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Matt wrote: >>Can anyone share any tips for refinishing a Klepper A-II frame? The frame was made in 1957 and some of the original varnish is flaking off. The frame hasn't been used very much and does not show the black spots that (I think) come from mildew growing under the varnish. Good, that means there should not be any rot either since the wood stayed dry. >1) Should I use a chemical stripper, or sandpaper and elbow grease? Although a stripper is more toxic, it is faster and will not take away any of the wood substrate. A less attractive idea is to just wire brush the loose flaky finish off and recoat over it. It will seal the exposed wood where the old finish is not bonded, and the old finish where it is still bonded will be covered under the new. But it is only an interim "quick and dirty" protection for the wood, and will have to be reapplied more frequently. I would prefer to take the old finish off. All finishes break down with time and putting on all fresh finish will make it last longer. >2) Does anyone advocate removal of the fittings? This seems like it would really lengthen the job. Is masking the fittings necessary? Is there a good idea for masking the fittings besides masking tape? The finish on the fittings will also protect them from corrosion, no harm is done in leaving them on and it would seal out moisture better since when replacing the fittings you will likely scratch off the new finish in places. the disadvantage is it will be more difficult to remove the fittings later if necessary for repairs since the fasteners will be sealed up in the finish. I would leave them on. You only need to mask the any moving parts (latches, slip fittings, etc.). >3) Once the old varnish has been removed, is there any treatment that I should consider before applying the new varnish? clean clear wood is best for the finish. I would consider adding the commercial anti-fungus additives available in paint stores to at least the first coat of finish (handle carefully because these additives are toxic). >4) What type of varnish should I use? Should I apply with a brush or dip the wood into the varnish? How many coats? Use a linseed oil based outdoor finish and a soft brush to make sure you fill all the grain. "Man-o-War" marine finish is a good choice since it also has UV inhibitors and is not too costly. I have also used Minwax "Antique Oil Finish" with excellent results, thought it does not have the UV inhibitors, which is probably not as much an issue with a kayak unless you store it outside. Do not use Polyurethane based finish on a kayak frame since it is brittle (it is harder and better for table tops and floors), and it will crack and flake off a kayak frame sooner than oil based finish. The oil based finishes will be more durable and actually last longer in this application since they are softer and more flexible (do not let a salesman tell you otherwise). The oil based finish is easier to chemically strip for future refinishing too, the hard brittle remains of the polyurethane will have to be ground off, risking taking some of the wood with it. Also do not use strait linseed oil as some books recommend. It works but it is kind of soft by itself and it will take months until it will not be tacky. Thin the first coat with about 30% turpentine (and add the anti-fungi additive) to get good penetration. wait for complete drying (several days at least), and add at least two more coats without the thinner to get adequate protection. A fourth coat will make it glossy and look nice, but will also increase the risk of it cracking since the total finish layer will be thicker. But it does offer more abrasion protection. >5) How long should the job take? That depend on you of course, but I would expect to take a total time of about 4 to 6 hours of direct labor on the frame. (You could spend that much time getting all the materials together and clearing a space to work on it). Most of that time, about 3+ hours for stripping. Each successive coat of finish will go quickly. It should not be necessary to sand between coats if you do them successively. If you want it to look real nice you could wait about a week after the 2nd to last coat (to let the last coat dry good and hard) and lightly sand before the last coat to smooth the grain, and to take off any dust or tiny bubbles in the finish. Clean with a tack cloth and put on the final coat. I do not bother with this on a kayak frame since appearance is only secondary for the finish on a kayak. I like to hang it the frame from the bow and stern with nails driven into the end pieces, balanced so I can slowly roll the frame as I coat each set of stringers (less chance of missing a spot, and it is easier on your back!). I tie it off to hold it steady at each position I work on it. On a folder you could hang each piece separately. I have done a number of home-built skin on frame hulls over the last few years and what I wrote here is what I have learned in the process, both from others and by trial and error. Peter *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. 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> From: Matt Poese <matt_at_sabine.acs.psu.edu> > Subject: [Paddlewise] Refinishing Klepper A-II frame > > Specific questions I have: > > 1) Should I use a chemical stripper, or sandpaper and elbow grease? > Scrapers first then sandpaper are best. If you must, chemical strippers should be used in well ventilated areas, and an organic chemical respirator is a great idea. It will give you leukemia or other cancers if you breathe too much of it. The sandpaper will be good exercise for your arms, get you ready for paddling. > 2) Does anyone advocate removal of the fittings? This seems like it > would really lengthen the job. Is masking the fittings necessary? > Is there a good idea for masking the fittings besides masking tape? Removal of fittings will make a nicer job, do a better waterproofing of the wood around the fitting (where it's probably needed most) and make it easier to remove/repair the fittings in the future. It will also alert you to any rotten wood that needs repair before you reinstall screws. Drill out rotten wood, and use epoxy and a dowel to fill rotten holes and redrill them after it sets. With a drill and screwdriver bit it shouldn't take very long to remove the screws. > > 3) Once the old varnish has been removed, is there any > treatment that I > should consider before applying the new varnish? sandpaper only, remove dust with compressed air or a dry brush, and wipe with a tack cloth or rag damp with alcohol or lacquer thinner. let dry. > > 4) What type of varnish should I use? Should I apply with a > brush or dip > the wood into the varnish? How many coats? Best is Z-spar, but expensive, and Z-spar dries quickly so it's harder to apply. Any spar varnish with UV inhibitors will work though. Do not thin varnish. Use a brush. Don't apply too much at once, to the point that it drips or sags (such as dipping). If the wood is exposed to sunlight, 6 coats. If not, 2-4 coats is sufficient. Sand lightly between coats with fine sandpaper after it dries. if the sandpaper clogs and makes balls of the varnish, it's not ready to sand yet (*or you sanded a drip that was still sticky). Anything between 180-400 grit is okay. > > 5) How long should the job take? 1-2 hours of scraping and sanding, depending on how bad it is 1 hour per coat > > > Thanks for your help, > > Matt > *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
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