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From: steve davis <landelusa_at_hotmail.com>
subject: [Paddlewise] trip report - Broken Group Islands
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 14:28:04 -0800
Sunday started out with the usual sideways rain that I^Òve come to associate 
with the West Coast of Vancouver Island on Easter weekend. Jane and I could 
be found comfortably holed up and drinking tea under a tarp on Willis Island 
in the Broken Group. The wind had kept us off the water on Saturday and the 
forecast for this day was calling for 20 knot winds from the south west in 
the morning then later backing to the north west. We faced a 6 NM exposed 
crossing of Loudoun Channel to get back to the truck at our launch point at 
Toquart Bay, roughly north west of us. The channel didn^Òt look too bad from 
where we were sitting and when the rain started to ease we decided to make a 
break for it before the wind swung around into our faces.

We tore down camp and were on the water in less than an hour. The wind had 
eased to about 15 knots and the rain was now consisting of just the odd 
intermittent shower.  The waves were on our back quarter, around 2 ^Ö 3 feet 
in height with the odd one breaking just to make things interesting. It was 
a great ride and after about an hour and half we were nearing the Stopper 
Islands on the other side of the channel. The sea lions hauled out on the 
Islands were making an incredible amount of noise that could be heard miles 
away. We were going to go and have a closer look at them when I spotted a 
whale spout about a mile away in the channel that runs between the Stoppers 
and Vancouver Island. We changed course and headed in that direction passing 
between St. Innes and the Stopper Islands.  The wind was still blowing but 
we were now in the shelter of the islands so the waves were much smaller. I 
saw the whale surface a few more times and I thought that maybe it was a 
minke as it didn^Òt look very big.

On the way around the south end of the Stoppers we passed within a few 
hundred meters of another sea lion haul out. I was thinking what an amazing 
paddle; the sea lions were barking and growling, the trees were dotted with 
eagles, there were huge rafts of seabirds all around (auklets, I think) and 
a whale was spouting directly in front of us. Beautiful. I didn^Òt want to 
approach the whale too closely because, not only is it illegal but it^Òs very 
poor manners, so when we were mid channel and a few hundred metres away from 
where I last spotted him I stopped paddling and pulled out my 35mm from it^Òs 
waterproof case. The wind was blowing us roughly in the direction the truck 
anyway so we just sat there and drifted hoping to sight the whale again. I 
nervously tapped on the hull of the boat to let the whale know where we were 
so he wouldn't surface underneath us.  Suddenly the whale, now identified as 
a grey whale and no longer looking very small at all, surfaced 10 metres off 
my port bow. After my heart kicked back in I managed to snap off a few 
photos. To my amazement this continued for another hour. Us drifting along, 
the whale surfacing always on the port bow, always 10 to 15 metres away. 
There was no mistaking that the big fella was following us! All of this with 
the chattering of eagles and the whirr of seabirds in the background. I 
couldn't help thinking of the Makah natives to the south and wonder how they 
could justify killing these beautiful animals. I don't want to get 
political, but it just doesn't seem right somehow. Eventually, growing bored 
I guess, the whale fell off behind to leave us on our own again. We resumed 
our paddle back to Toquart Bay.

As we rounded the last headland to our destination we were greeted with the 
sound of loud rap music coming from the direction of our take out point. 
Some youths had set up a tarp city and were well into a weekend long party. 
On retrieving my truck Jane noticed that somebody had stolen a pair of kayak 
cradles from the roof racks. Welcome back to civilization. Sigh.

Steve Davis
Victoria, BC



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From: Dave Kruger <dkruger_at_pacifier.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] trip report - Broken Group Islands
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 11:35:26 -0800
Steve Davis wrote: 

> Suddenly the whale, now identified as 
> a grey whale and no longer looking very small at all, surfaced 10 metres off 
> my port bow. After my heart kicked back in I managed to snap off a few 
> photos. To my amazement this continued for another hour. Us drifting along, 
> the whale surfacing always on the port bow, always 10 to 15 metres away. 

Couple years ago in mid-June, there was a good-size gray whale doodling around
__inside__ Benson, showing no concern about kayakers in the near vicinity. 
Could be the same whale, inasmuch the one I saw was probably a "resident."

-- 
Dave Kruger
Astoria, OR
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