Re: [Paddlewise] Dumpers

From: Dave Kruger <dkruger_at_pacifier.com>
Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 20:07:48 -0700
Just a comment on the use of "dumpers."

Seems like most posters here have been using "dumpers" to describe waves that
break directly on a steep beach.  That's well and good, although the surfing
community (I think) has called those things "shorebreak" for years.  Perforce,
if a wave breaks directly on a bare beach, it has to be a "dumper."  [Side
comment:  for me, it is not just the dumping that is a problem;  there is the
suck of collapsed wave that takes you out into the middle of another
shorebreak.  Repeated maytagging.  When I bodysurfed, we would do a forward
roll as these things hit the sand, come up "standing" (crouching, anyway), and
run like hell up the beach.  Fun if it works.]

Dumping surf occurs at the main break line, also, anyplace where the bottom
shoals rapidly.  Down here in Oregon, we often see dumping surf in the over
head to well over head size (8 feet and better).  Hell of a thing to see, and
something no one would want to get caught in the impact zone.  Plenty of energy
to thoroughly trash most fiberglass layups ... even Doug Lloyd's Nordkapp tank
.... er, I mean kayak.

-- 
Dave Kruger
Astoria, OR
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Received on Mon May 13 2002 - 20:08:13 PDT

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