Re: [Paddlewise] Dumpers

From: Steve Scherrer <flatpick_at_teleport.com>
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 06:51:02 -0700
Good terminology stuff Dave!

Dumper refers to how a wave breaks, not where.
Shorebreak refers to where a wave breaks, not how.

I like to look at the lines of waves coming (or going) in and determine
swell size and direction, where and how they are forming and breaking and
the sea bottom configuration and shape.  If the bottom is a nice, gentle
slope you can bet on shouldered waves that *spill* nicely.  Steep bottom and
the waves form, swell and *dump* in a flash.  Just like Dave said, these
waves can be in any zone of breaking waves.  Dumpers in the initial impact
zone are truely impressive.  To watch a large swell form, start to break and
dump it's entire load in a couple seconds is amazing and quite loud. Ones
that land directly on the beach are definitley scarry.  You mix in a couple
truckloads of sand into the dump and land it on a hard surface and YIKES!!

steve ( who has a side hobby watching water move)



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Received on Tue May 14 2002 - 06:51:24 PDT

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