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From: Rob MacDonald <robm_at_udl.com>
subject: [Paddlewise] Dumpers
Date: Fri, 10 May 2002 17:29:19 -0700
As I have heard them defined, "dumpers" are the waves that crash on short, 
steep beaches.  They suddenly rise up and break right at the beach, with 
very little warning.  There is very little chance to place yourself on the 
wave, as it suddenly just appears under the hull, and boom! there you are, 
on the beach, probably soaking wet.  I survived one landing like this, due 
more to good luck than good management, although having the gear firmly 
lashed into the bottom of the open canoe probably helped prevent capsize.

For longer beaches, I like to try and ride the back of the wave into the 
break.  The wave crashes under the hull, and cushions the drop, then we 
jump out into the foam and haul ashore.  Works great with open canoes, but 
is tougher with a kayak, as it is harder to scramble out, with skirts and 
all.  Obviously, I am not talking about huge waves here, just little ones 
that lump up to about 2-3 ft as they crash.  I don't want to try landing in 
anything bigger, thank you!

The technique is to wait just outside the break, until the bow rises, then 
paddle like mad to stay there as you head to the beach.   It  is good fun, 
and not terribly exciting if done right.

Riding the front of the wave often causes a broach.  With great bracing 
skills, this can be turned into a sidesurf, otherwise, it will be a very 
messy capsize in the foam right on the beach.  Sidesurfing an open boat is 
not recommended!   The boat fills and sinks as the wave breaks over it.  If 
the boat doesn't broach, then it can turn into a partial pitchpole - one 
that stops when boat hits the bottom.

I would love to know how our ancestors managed to get open boats on and off 
beaches with surf.  There were several entire economies based on being able 
to launch and land small open boats loaded with fish on surf beaches, both 
in the US and in Britain.  Some of the boats were quite large, as long as 
30 ft or so.

Rob.

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