-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE----- Hash: SHA1 I have a Kevlar Eddyline Wind Dancer which had foam bulkheads. The bulkheads have been removed but the sealant is still there. The sealant bonds very well to the inside of the kayak. Any tips with respect to the process of removing the sealant. Would some sort of solvent help break the bond to the inside of the kayak? - -- Jan Mason td376_at_mail.anonymizer.com -----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE----- Version: GnuPG v1.1.90 (MingW32) Comment: Using GnuPG with Mozilla - http://enigmail.mozdev.org iD8DBQE9UtTnriM783OhDMIRAimAAJ9u4GSeh63T1JmljKrFGXKcDT10EQCaAybn 4r+lkEUCaPF59847rsSwY2g= =Urlq -----END PGP SIGNATURE----- *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE----- Hash: SHA1 I guessed that the sealant might be 3M 5200. I did some searches on the internet as how to remove the 5200 sealant. What I found was cut, scrape, and use thin piano wire as a saw. I guess guitar strings might work too. I have used a chisel and a utility knife so far. The utility knife works better than the chisel but leaves a bit to be desired. Next step is to get a pack of guitar strings and rig up a little saw out of it. When I get most of it out of there, to finish cleaning it up would a 5" orbital sander do the job? What grit sand paper should I use? Jan Mason wrote: | I have a Kevlar Eddyline Wind Dancer which had foam bulkheads. The | bulkheads have been removed but the sealant is still there. The | sealant bonds very well to the inside of the kayak. Any | tips with respect to the process of removing the sealant. Would some | sort of solvent help break the bond to the inside of | the kayak? - ---snip--- - -- Jan Mason td376_at_mail.anonymizer.com -----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE----- Version: GnuPG v1.1.90 (MingW32) Comment: Using GnuPG with Mozilla - http://enigmail.mozdev.org iD8DBQE9Uxd3riM783OhDMIRAgtdAJ4vGvn16qj8qZmLNRFn1oUVDBqZEgCfeJhQ pvqyBZAmYsGjgOZ1HoXi7xY= =VTbj -----END PGP SIGNATURE----- *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Might want to try a dremel tool with a grinding attachment. Not cheap but very effective for that kind of work. Be sure to wear a mask. The old machinist, Dave G. At 21:14 8/8/02, Jan Mason wrote: >-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE----- >Hash: SHA1 >I guessed that the sealant might be 3M 5200. I did some searches on the >internet as how to remove the 5200 sealant. What I found was cut, >scrape, and use thin piano wire as a saw. I guess guitar strings might >work too. I have used a chisel and a utility knife so far. The utility >knife works better than the chisel but leaves a bit to be desired. Next >step is to get a pack of guitar strings and rig up a little saw out of >it. When I get most of it out of there, to finish cleaning it up would >a 5" orbital sander do the job? What grit sand paper should I use? *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE----- Hash: SHA1 Thanks Dave. I already have a dremel tool. I'll give it a try in the morning. Dave Gorjup wrote: | Might want to try a dremel tool with a grinding attachment. Not cheap | but very effective for that kind of work. Be sure to wear a mask. | The old machinist, | Dave G. [snip] - -- Jan Mason td376_at_mail.anonymizer.com -----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE----- Version: GnuPG v1.1.90 (MingW32) Comment: Using GnuPG with Mozilla - http://enigmail.mozdev.org iD8DBQE9UyI4riM783OhDMIRAhNDAJ96yft2Z1zXsAi9SfM0fMi+kgWmXwCdGyiU odZqsyGenxPUvxRxh8C5Zk8= =pi4g -----END PGP SIGNATURE----- *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
maybe consider using a putty knife with a flexible blade (that can be filed to a sharp edge). or maybe a flush-cut saw http://doityourself.com/store/6966105.htm (it has a flexible blade that lays flat on a surface, and the teeth are not off-set - meaning it won't scratch the surrounding area as much as a regular saw blade would) as for 'finish cleaning', much would depend on what the next step was? If you use an electric sander, start with a fine grit paper (150), be careful, and see what that does to the 5200 - *and to the surrounding fiberglass* - before going to coarser grits. You may find that sanding/grinding removes surrounding fiberglass faster than it does the 5200. Erik S > Might want to try a dremel tool with a grinding attachment. Not cheap but > very effective for that kind of work. Be sure to wear a mask. > The old machinist, > Dave G. > > At 21:14 8/8/02, Jan Mason wrote: > >-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE----- > >Hash: SHA1 > >I guessed that the sealant might be 3M 5200. I did some searches on the > >internet as how to remove the 5200 sealant. What I found was cut, > >scrape, and use thin piano wire as a saw. I guess guitar strings might > >work too. I have used a chisel and a utility knife so far. The utility > >knife works better than the chisel but leaves a bit to be desired. Next > >step is to get a pack of guitar strings and rig up a little saw out of > >it. When I get most of it out of there, to finish cleaning it up would > >a 5" orbital sander do the job? What grit sand paper should I use? *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE----- Hash: SHA1 Thanks Dave. The dremel tool did the trick. I ran it at 35,000rpm and used a #426 dremel reinforced cut-off wheel. Also used rubber gloves and a face mask. The 3M 5200 was heating up and melting on my hands. Not fun to get off. The non-reinforced cut-off wheels did not work very well. They kept breaking. I'm 25% done with one bulkhead now and still on the first reinforced cut-off wheel. The puddy knife, chisel, and utility knife are the other implements of destruction that I tried. Dave Gorjup wrote: | Might want to try a dremel tool with a grinding attachment. Not cheap | but very effective for that kind of work. Be sure to wear a mask. | The old machinist, | Dave G. | | At 21:14 8/8/02, Jan Mason wrote: |> I guessed that the sealant might be 3M 5200. I did some searches on the |> internet as how to remove the 5200 sealant. What I found was cut, |> scrape, and use thin piano wire as a saw. I guess guitar strings might |> work too. I have used a chisel and a utility knife so far. The utility |> knife works better than the chisel but leaves a bit to be desired. Next |> step is to get a pack of guitar strings and rig up a little saw out of |> it. When I get most of it out of there, to finish cleaning it up would |> a 5" orbital sander do the job? What grit sand paper should I use? - -snip- - -- Jan Mason 813-546-0644 td376_at_mail.anonymizer.com -----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE----- Version: GnuPG v1.1.90 (MingW32) Comment: Using GnuPG with Mozilla - http://enigmail.mozdev.org iD8DBQE9VZ1vriM783OhDMIRAlO2AJ0Tc6jBa2/hh5hdVRGcttHGM0s4zwCfcxbC sQIi7ItY/qyfdCzpDmNPcks= =hBbZ -----END PGP SIGNATURE----- *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Glad it helped Jan. I've found a dremel tool works in a multitude of places other tools won't. One other thing in case you're not aware - when I was an apprentice machinist one of the first things we were taught is not only to have the right tool for the job but also to know the right speeds to use with various tools and materials. If you dont' have one yet, a speed control that allows less than full rpm would probably be most helpful in this application. It would keep the heat down and just allow the tool to produce dust. In this of application with fiberglass and/or hardened resin I would most likely use a coarse ball grinding burr and low to moderate speeds. Hopes this helps. Please ignore if you're familiar with this stuff. Whatever works for you is the key. ;-) Dave G. At 19:11 8/10/02, Jan Mason wrote: >Thanks Dave. The dremel tool did the trick. I ran it at 35,000rpm and >used a #426 dremel reinforced cut-off wheel. Also used rubber gloves >and a face mask. The 3M 5200 was heating up and melting on my hands. >Not fun to get off. The non-reinforced cut-off wheels did not work very >well. They kept breaking. I'm 25% done with one bulkhead now and still >on the first reinforced cut-off wheel. The puddy knife, chisel, and >utility knife are the other implements of destruction that I tried. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE----- Hash: SHA1 My dremel tool is variable speed 5,000 - 35,000rpm. I'll give the cut-off wheel a try at slower speeds and also try out a coarse ball grinding burr. I am learning as I go. Once I get the 3M 5200 removed I get to learn about epoxy and fiberglass. That will be another first for me. I already have the free info packet from West System. I just don't let little things like not having done it before stop me. It just makes it more fun. Thanks again. Dave Gorjup wrote: | Glad it helped Jan. I've found a dremel tool works in a multitude of | places other tools won't. | | One other thing in case you're not aware - when I was an apprentice | machinist one of the first things we were taught is not only to have the | right tool for the job but also to know the right speeds to use with | various tools and materials. If you dont' have one yet, a speed control | that allows less than full rpm would probably be most helpful in this | application. It would keep the heat down and just allow the tool to | produce dust. In this of application with fiberglass and/or hardened | resin I would most likely use a coarse ball grinding burr and low to | moderate speeds. | Hopes this helps. Please ignore if you're familiar with this stuff. | Whatever works for you is the key. ;-) | Dave G. | | At 19:11 8/10/02, Jan Mason wrote: | |> Thanks Dave. The dremel tool did the trick. I ran it at 35,000rpm and |> used a #426 dremel reinforced cut-off wheel. Also used rubber gloves |> and a face mask. The 3M 5200 was heating up and melting on my hands. |> Not fun to get off. The non-reinforced cut-off wheels did not work very |> well. They kept breaking. I'm 25% done with one bulkhead now and still |> on the first reinforced cut-off wheel. The puddy knife, chisel, and |> utility knife are the other implements of destruction that I tried. - -snip- - -- Jan Mason td376_at_mail.anonymizer.com -----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE----- Version: GnuPG v1.1.90 (MingW32) Comment: Using GnuPG with Mozilla - http://enigmail.mozdev.org iD8DBQE9VfaeriM783OhDMIRAvd/AJ9gTgC+aR1rROoEMCYnMnSvOpPEMQCfeRiJ MeVxvMGuYibwCjxyo4n4Yzk= =gj0L -----END PGP SIGNATURE----- *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
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