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From: <Blankibr_at_aol.com>
subject: [Paddlewise] Removing contact Cement
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 15:07:36 EDT
I used contact cement (rubber adhesive) to glue a two piece paddle together.  
I now want to take it apart (about a year later) and am having trouble.  Any 
suggestions on how to release the glue?  

Thanks,
Brian Blankinship
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From: msarq <msarq_at_yahoo.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Removing contact Cement
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 16:02:06 -0400
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From: <Blankibr_at_aol.com>
Subject: [Paddlewise] Removing contact Cement

> I used contact cement (rubber adhesive) to glue a two piece paddle together.
> I now want to take it apart (about a year later) and am having trouble.  Any
> suggestions on how to release the glue?

Try lacquer thinner in a spray bottle, spray in a little slot where you can
drive a chisel or something flat and keep spraying as you force the crack
open...
This should work, good luck.

Miguel

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From: Shawn Baker <shawnkayak_at_yahoo.com>
subject: re: [Paddlewise] Removing contact Cement
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 13:40:51 -0700 (PDT)
Blankibr_at_aol.com wrote:
>I used contact cement (rubber adhesive) to glue a two piece paddle
>together. ...Any suggestions on how to release the glue?  

I'm impressed you got the halves together with glue in the joint!

I don't think naptha or lacquer thinner will penetrate the joint enough
to get it apart.  (That is, if I'm understanding correctly that it's in
the ferrule of the TAP joint).

Heat.

Heat is the answer to darn near everything.  Okay, it's my secret to a
lot of building and repair questions. 

Buy or borrow a heat gun, the kind you find in a hardware store for
stripping paint.  Heat the joint, the glue will soften, and you should
be able to pull the paddle apart.

Here's a trick to try:  Find two trees or deck columns about 10' apart.
Tie one blade solidly to one column/tree.  Use some thick bungie
cords--the more, the better, and pull from the shaft/blade joint to the
other column.  When you heat the paddle (using 1 or 2 hands), you won't
have 2 hands free to do the pulling--the bungies can now do that for
you.  Use even, steady heat--KEEP THE HEAT GUN MOVING!  I imagine
whatever resin was used to build your paddle--polyester or
vinylester--will withstand a fair amount of heat--enough to soften the
contact cement, but don't get so much heat in one spot that you burn
the shaft.

What other questions is a heat gun the answer to:

*Preheating wood so epoxy cures faster
*ungluing an epoxy joint
*making a yellow glue joint dry faster
*loosening a yellow glue joint (with a water spraybottle)
*Making gorilla glue cure REALLY FAST!
*sealing leaks in the seam of a vinyl drybag
*heating the glue on a vinyl patch on a vinyl drybag so it sticks
better
*making vinyl-tabbed d-rings on a Royalex canoe stick better.
*sealing the ends of frayed rope or cord
*loosening the plastic laminate on a countertop (not paddling-related,
but this is where my contact cement experience stems from).
*regluing p-lam on a countertop
*oh, and lest I forget, removing paint (haven't done this yet)

Shawn

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From: Michael Daly <michaeldaly_at_rogers.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Removing contact Cement
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 17:48:22 -0400
From: "Shawn Baker" <shawnkayak_at_yahoo.com>

> you.  Use even, steady heat--KEEP THE HEAT GUN MOVING!  I imagine
> whatever resin was used to build your paddle--polyester or
> vinylester--will withstand a fair amount of heat--enough to soften the
> contact cement, 

There are some epoxies and resins that will soften with heat.  They are
use in making carbon fibre skate boots and stuff and heat is used to get 
a final fit to the athlete's foot.  So, just in case the paddle has a 
similar resin, watch when heating and twisting that you don't put a bend 
into the shaft.  If you do, reapplying heat should fix it.

Mike
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