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From: Richard L. Casale <RichCasale_at_comcast.net>
subject: [Paddlewise] Cold Weather Clothing
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 22:29:12 -0400
My first season in my Pungo and I'm having a blast, but now the weather, and
the water, has gotten dangerously cold for me (50's).  What is the simplest
recommendation any of you can make for safe and comfortable paddling in
these conditions.  I was hoping that I could paddle well into November but
if I have to wear a dry suit the costs will prevent me from going that far
this season.

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From: Kirk Olsen <paddlewise_at_fastmail.fm>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Cold Weather Clothing
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 10:21:27 UT
On Mon, 21 Oct 2002 22:29:12 -0400, "Richard L. Casale"
<RichCasale_at_comcast.net> said:
> My first season in my Pungo and I'm having a blast, but now the weather,
> and
> the water, has gotten dangerously cold for me (50's).  What is the
> simplest
> recommendation any of you can make for safe and comfortable paddling in
> these conditions.

For in the water protective gear I've got 5-6 levels of protection,
accumulated slowly (the semi-dry suit is hideous to paddle in but good
for winter surfing/windsurfing).  My recommendation would be to start
with a neoprene farmer john wetsuit.  After that add a wetsuit or dry
top.  I have friends who paddle through the winter (in new england) with
a neoprene farmer john/dry top combination.  I feel that's the most
versatile combination, I'm positive others will have other combos they
prefer.

Also I alter what I do during the offseason.  I only paddle my "safe"
boats, stay close to shore, and definitely adjust my day according to the
weather.  By safe boats I mean my leaky surf ski gets put away and my
PinTail comes out, my marathon flatwater canoes go into hiding and my
canoe partner's Wenonah Sundowner is the boat of choice.

Kirk
--
http://fastmail.fm - Same, same, but different...
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From: Hal Levine <hal11_at_adelphia.net>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Cold Weather Clothing
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 16:00:59 -0400
Unlike many kinds of safety equipment, seat belts, helmets, air bags, etc.,
cold water "safety" clothing can easily be tested.  My recommendation is go
to your favorite lake, river or ocean put in, get you cold weather padding
clothes on and jump in and swim around.

I recomend that you do this with a partner who will keep the car warm and
have a thermos with a hot beverage ready along with dry clothes.  You can
practice rolls, wet exits and resucues all summer but you MUST try these
manuvers in cold weather (water) conditions.  You will find things out that
you did not expect such as: you hands get cold and won't work, cold water
gasp, numb feet, leaking gaskets and that with polar fleece, a dry suit,
boots and gloves you can not get back in you boat or roll as easily as you
did all summer with just a bathing suit.

You may want to get scientific and bring a thermometer and have your water
stay timed.  You may also want to do it with a group to see what works best.

It can be a real eyeopener to find that you have so much air in the legs of
your dry pants that you can even get up right.

Hal
"Power your boat with carbohydrates, not hydrocarbons."
http://www.ez-troll.com



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From: Wes Boyd <boydwe_at_dmci.net>
subject: [Paddlewise] Fish sticks
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 09:11:23
Being as concerned with safety as the next guy on Paddlewise, I thought I
would pass along something else to think about.

As those that have read postings of mine know, I paddle a lot around an
artifical lake in southern Michigan. The lake is managed for trophy
muskellunge, and I've seen muskies approaching five feet taken out of the
lake.

A couple summers ago I was out on a night paddle with a group, and we had
cylume lightsticks as markers. One lady had one dragging in the water from
her stern loop, and a muskie hit it. Scared her pretty good, for an instant.

We had another night paddle last Saturday night. One of the group was an
experienced family with a big double, mom in front, dad in back, and five
year old daughter in the middle. As I understand it, the daughter was
dragging a lightstick in the water, and dad, who had heard me tell the
story of the last paragraph, teased her that she might not want to get the
light stick in the water or else a muskie might hit it. She had no more
than taken the lightstick out of the water when her mother, in front,
accidently hit a large muskie with her paddle. The fish reacted, then hit
the boat with a large WHACK! that could be heard all over the place. It
gave everybody a start, and we're just darn glad the little girl had
listened to her father -- we think it had been attracted by the light stick.

Now, there are all those people from Florida and Australia and other
alligator and croc-ridden areas, and I suppose they must be used to natural
hazards. There are those that paddle where there are sharks around, and I
suppose that has to be taken in stride and no one thinks too much of it. I
know I never thought too much about this natural hazard, but, on
reflection, they do use those same light sticks to fish for swordfish, out
in the ocean, so I suppose there has to be some sort of parallel
attraction, not being a fish expert.

Still, I think the next time there's a group night paddle out there, I'm
going to take a roll of duct tape so that no one has to have light sticks
dragging in the water . . . never thought I'd have to deal with that
particular natural hazard out there.

-- Wes
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wes Boyd's Kayak Place                NEW URL! -- http://www.kayakplace.com
Kayaks for Big Guys (And Gals) | Trip Reports | Places To Go | Boats & Gear
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From: Steve Cramer <cramersec_at_charter.net>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Fish sticks
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 10:49:00 -0400
At 09:11 AM 10/24/02 +0000, Wes wrote:
>A couple summers ago I was out on a night paddle with a group, and we had
>cylume lightsticks as markers. One lady had one dragging in the water from
>her stern loop, and a muskie hit it. Scared her pretty good, for an instant.
>
>We had another night paddle last Saturday night. ... her mother, in front,
>accidently hit a large muskie with her paddle. The fish reacted, then hit
>the boat with a large WHACK! that could be heard all over the place. It
>gave everybody a start, and we're just darn glad the little girl had
>listened to her father -- we think it had been attracted by the light stick.
><snip>
>Still, I think the next time there's a group night paddle out there, I'm
>going to take a roll of duct tape so that no one has to have light sticks
>dragging in the water . . . never thought I'd have to deal with that
>particular natural hazard out there.

Be careful where you tape it. A friend of mine and her two sisters did a 
three-woman entry in the Texas Water Safari, 260 miles from San Marcos to 
the Gulf, non-stop. Late at night they were paddling with headlamps on. A 
big alligator garfish came out of the water and tried to eat the lamp. 
Fortunately, it couldn't jump quite high enough. Unfortunately, it hit her 
in the side and broke three ribs.

I think paddling with sharks is safer. Good tip, though, Wes.

Steve Cramer
Athens, GA
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From: Michael Daly <michaeldaly_at_rogers.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Fish sticks
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 12:45:00 -0400
From: "Wes Boyd" <boydwe_at_dmci.net>

> A couple summers ago I was out on a night paddle with a group, and we had
> cylume lightsticks as markers. One lady had one dragging in the water from
> her stern loop, and a muskie hit it. Scared her pretty good, for an instant.


I've had two hits from fish (big carp I assume).  In both cases, the bitter
end of the skeg control line (neatly tied in a chain sinnet for a hand grip)
was dragging in the water right next to the cockpit about an inch or so in
the water.  Makes me cautious about dragging my fingers in the water :-)

Mike
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From: Patrick Maun <patrick_at_patrickmaun.com>
subject: [Paddlewise] Car Racks and Paint Damage
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 10:23:38 -0500
Hey everyone,

since returning to the US I have neglected to get a car. I have been 
using my girlfriends car which does not have a rack. I would like to 
be able to use my Yakima Q-Tower rack on her car but have worried 
about scratching and otherwise damaging it. I ask as my cars have 
always tended to look like hell. I have always left racks on for 
years and  have no idea if they do damage or not, and if so, what can 
be done to mitigate the damage.

So what do you do?

She drives one of those fancy new Beetles, if anyone has any tips for 
car-topping a boat on one of these let me know.

Thanks!

-Patrick
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From: Michael Daly <michaeldaly_at_rogers.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Car Racks and Paint Damage
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 12:36:34 -0400
From: "Patrick Maun" <patrick_at_patrickmaun.com>

> I have always left racks on for 
> years and  have no idea if they do damage or not, and if so, what can 
> be done to mitigate the damage.
> 
> So what do you do?

My roof rack is on and off the car quite frequently.  There is no 
obvious damage.  It's a Honda Civic (gutterless) and a Thule rack, so 
the rack sits on rubber pads on the painted roof with "hooks" over
the door frames.  I initially expected to see lots of scratches in the
paint over time, but that hasn't happened.  The only preventative
measure I take is to wipe dust and dirt off the painted surfaces before
putting the rack on.

> She drives one of those fancy new Beetles, if anyone has any tips for 
> car-topping a boat on one of these let me know.

IIRC, the Beetle uses a special rack mount that is built into the door
frame just like the Jetta and Golf.  This is one of the best designs
for roof racks I've seen.  Check the car's manual.  You peel off the
rubber door seal and there's a short gutter and two bolts for each
rack foot.

A friend has the Golf and the only complaint she has is that the 
rack puts a small bend in the door seal and if the rack is on 
when its raining, she gets an occasional drip inside.  My Honda 
does the same.

Mike
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From: Steve Cramer <cramersec_at_charter.net>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Car Racks and Paint Damage
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 12:42:36 -0400
At 10:23 AM 10/24/02 -0500, Patrick Maun wrote:
>Hey everyone,
>
>since returning to the US I have neglected to get a car. I have been using 
>my girlfriends car which does not have a rack. I would like to be able to 
>use my Yakima Q-Tower rack on her car but have worried about scratching 
>and otherwise damaging it. I ask as my cars have always tended to look 
>like hell. I have always left racks on for years and  have no idea if they 
>do damage or not, and if so, what can be done to mitigate the damage.

I get more scratches on the car from taking boats on and off than I do from 
the rack mounts. Put a good coat of wax on the paint before you put the 
Q-Towers on and again when you take them off and there shouldn't be much 
effect.

>She drives one of those fancy new Beetles, if anyone has any tips for 
>car-topping a boat on one of these let me know.

Yes, be sure to take a picture. Long straight boat on short round car. You 
should get smiles (or at least incredulous stares) everywhere you go. 
Actually, your biggest problem may be getting adequate rack spacing. You 
only have one door to work with.


Steve Cramer
Athens, GA

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From: James Durkin <jwd_at_phonogram.net>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Car Racks and Paint Damage
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 14:12:18 -0500
On Thu, Oct 24, 2002 at 12:42:36PM -0400, Steve Cramer wrote:

> At 10:23 AM 10/24/02 -0500, Patrick Maun wrote:

>> She drives one of those fancy new Beetles, if anyone has any tips for 
>> car-topping a boat on one of these let me know.

< .. snip .. >

> Actually, your biggest problem may be getting adequate rack spacing. You 
> only have one door to work with.

I don't know about the New Beetle specifically, but for most 2-door
cars Yakima offers a product that extends the spacing between the bars
called the "Q Stretch Kit".  It's easier to just look it up on their
website (http://www.yakima.com), as there is a pretty clear sketch of
it, than to explain here how it works.

With the product, the limiting factor becomes not the single door, but
the length of the roof itself.  On car models that are available as 2-
or 4-door versions (not applicable to the New Beetle, alas), you can
usually get the bar spacing on the 2-door within a few inches of that
of the 4-door.

The only slight annoyance I've run into with it is that you need to
crank down on clips at the rear of the door a little harder than you
would with a 4-door, in order to get the towers on the rear bar to
stay down tight against the roof (again, look at the picture on
Yakima's site, and the reason why is pretty obvious).  But I've never
lost a boat, dented the roof, or even scratched up the car's paint
when removing or installing the rack.  Just make sure the car top and
rack tower pads are clean when you install the rack.

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From: WhiteRabbit <whiterabbit_at_empowering.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Car Racks and Paint Damage
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 17:30:32 -0500
With regard to Volkswagens and racks.
Unless they have come out recently, the Yakima racks are NOT made to use the
factory hard points.  You have to use the mounts that hook into the door
frame.  Thule does make a bracket that attaches to the factory points.

I found the VW factory rack for my Jetta to be $100+ cheaper than either
Yakima or Thule.  It is easier to get on and off than the Yakima rack I have
on the Subaru.   It comes with four clear plastic pieces of tape that mount
on the body under the feet of the rack to avoid scratches.   I don't know if
I can get replacements.  I haven't tried using my Yakima holders on the VW
rack,  I doubt they would work.  With my hard chine CLC Chesapeake a pad
works better anyway.



Patrick Maun wrote:
>
> >> She drives one of those fancy new Beetles, if anyone has any tips for
> >> car-topping a boat on one of these let me know.
>


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