Re: [Paddlewise] Stainless hardware (and aluminum)

From: Matt Broze <mkayaks_at_oz.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 21:54:06 -0800
We (and anyone using Yakima/NW Designs foot pedals) has been screwing a
stainless steel screw through threads into aluminum for well over 20 years.
Maybe if it was constantly under salt water there would be a problem. I don’
t recall ever seeing any significant corrosion because of it. What corrosion
that does occur in normal salt water use seems to weld the two materials
together more tightly. In the early 1980’s NW Kayaks used to put a screw
through 3 or 4 layers of 1/8” aluminum when mounting one type of footbrakes.
Those ¼ inch screws could be a real bugger to remove if they were old.
Sometime I’ve had to resort to a hacksaw to make a much deeper slot in the
screw so I could use an impact wrench to bust those screws loose. We were
replacing them with our system because of a broken plastic part that would
get brittle with age (and was no longer available in that size) not because
of anything to do with incompatibility between the metals or corrosion on
them. I have seen some pretty corroded rudder fittings and parts on older
kayaks used in salt water a lot. Most rudders use stainless steel screws
into aluminum but that was not the areas I saw corrosion problems. They
seemed more likely on the cable ends or places where aluminum fit in tightly
against other aluminum.
Stainless screws must be of a hard enough grade to allow cutting of the
threads into them. They can get a little surface discoloration on them if
kept constantly wet. The only place I usually see this surface discoloration
is on the spare wing-nut we string onto the nylon hatch attachment cord. I
assume the cord holds the salt and moisture in place a lot longer. This
staining is not really corrosion because it doesn’t “eat” into the material
but just stays on the surface in a thin layer. My understanding is that’s
because the new oxide is slightly smaller than the material it was formed
from. Rust (iron oxide) expands to bigger than the material it was formed
from so it buckles up and flakes exposing new steel underneath to be
corroded further. I thought crevice corrosion in stainless steel occurred
because of electrolysis between the materials (even though they were the
same material) touching each other. I’m not very sure of that though so
please don’t quote me on it. I have noticed that the stainless buttons on
two piece graphite paddles are much more likely to stain than the ones on
fiberglass paddles. I have guessed that this is due to the carbons greater
electrical conductivity but I’d be happy to hear other possibilities from
those more informed on this subject. We quit using any nuts on the bow and
stern U-bolt placements because some of the earliest ones we did that were
used in salt water a lot were staining the boat a little below the U-bolts
probably due to crevice corrosion.

Matt Broze
http://www.marinerkayaks.com <http://www.marinerkayaks.com/>


***************************************************************************
PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed
here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire
responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author.
Submissions:     PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net
Subscriptions:   PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net
Website:         http://www.paddlewise.net/
***************************************************************************
Received on Fri Nov 08 2002 - 21:51:44 PST

This archive was generated by hypermail 2.4.0 : Thu Aug 21 2025 - 16:31:00 PDT