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From: Bay and Beyond Sea Kayak Tours <bayandbeyond_at_ozemail.com.au>
subject: [Paddlewise] hull marking
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 06:56:40 +1100
Anyone with experience on painting name and numbers onto plastic 
boats? What is best method?  Paint? or  Stickers? Type of paint? Free 
hand? Stencils? Spraycan? Brush?

Thanks in advance for all responses and opinions.

Phil
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From: Gabriel L Romeu <romeug_at_erols.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] hull marking
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 08:50:22 -0500
There is sign making vinyl that works fine on plastic 
untreated  with 303.  YOu can get a sign making store to cut 
stencils from either a picture or vector text.  This is 
available in a multitude of different colored vinyl.
The only surface I have been unsuccessful in sticking this 
vinyl is a Nordkapp that I refinished with graphite.

Bay and Beyond Sea Kayak Tours wrote:
> Anyone with experience on painting name and numbers onto plastic boats? 
> What is best method?  Paint? or  Stickers? Type of paint? Free hand? 
> Stencils? Spraycan? Brush?
> 
> Thanks in advance for all responses and opinions.

> 

-- 
  gabriel l romeu
ø http://studiofurniture.com ø
ø http://journalphoto.org ø
ø http://kayakoutfitting.org ø
ø http://kayaknavigation.com ø

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From: Joe Pylka <pylka_at_castle.net>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] hull marking
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 09:52:52 -0500
>>>There is sign making vinyl that works fine on plastic 


untreated  with 303.  YOu can get a sign making store to cut 


stencils from either a picture or vector text.  This is 


available in a multitude of different colored vinyl.





    --Any name or designation for that material?





Some years ago I made up a picture for the bow of my ww canoe.  I used a
laminating sheet of acetate with an adhesive back, and painted on it with
Pelikan Acetate Ink, which is available in many colors.  I then cut it out of
the sheet, carefully cleaned the vinyl on the boat, and stuck it on.  Lasted
for 8 years or so....





Joe P.








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From: Michael Daly <michaeldaly_at_rogers.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] hull marking
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 16:22:16 -0500
From: "Joe Pylka" <pylka_at_castle.net>

> I then cut it out of
> the sheet, carefully cleaned the vinyl on the boat, and stuck it on.  Lasted
> for 8 years or so....

If you want to make life a tad easier (though more expensive) you can
get some auto signmaking outfits to make a vinyl pattern for you in
more than one color.  They can work from the output from a standard
computer graphics program and they use a computer cutter to do the image.

Look at this link and scroll down to the photo of Bert Millar, the bearded 
fellow in front of a green-decked Pintail.  The kayak above him is an Ellesmere 
with a Haida-style fish design on the bow.  I met him at a SK Symposium two 
years ago and he had the fish pattern made in this way.

http://www.adventurekayakmag.com/Vol%201%20Iss%204/features_%20kits%20v1i4.html

Bert made the design on the computer.  It cost him C$50 (or was it C$75?) 
to have the design reproduced in vinyl.  They loaded the graphics, manipulated 
it as required (including making two mirror images for either side of the hull) 
and cut the design.  Since the pattern is now in-house, more copies will not 
cost as much (no new set-up charge).

BTW - Bert is in the auto glass business and his business neighbour is the 
auto signmaking company that did the graphics, so he had the connections.  
I don't know if that price holds for the rest of us.

Mike
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From: Gabriel L Romeu <romeug_at_erols.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] hull marking
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 18:30:55 -0500
   This is
> 
> 
> available in a multitude of different colored vinyl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>     --Any name or designation for that material?
> 
> 
> 
>
some are listed as 2-5 year outdoor use, some 10.

-- 
  gabriel l romeu
ø http://studiofurniture.com ø
ø http://journalphoto.org ø
ø http://kayakoutfitting.org ø
ø http://kayaknavigation.com ø

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From: Gabriel L Romeu <romeug_at_erols.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] hull marking
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 18:53:29 -0500
> 
> Bert made the design on the computer.  It cost him C$50 (or was it C$75?) 
> to have the design reproduced in vinyl.  They loaded the graphics, manipulated 
> it as required (including making two mirror images for either side of the hull) 
> and cut the design.  Since the pattern is now in-house, more copies will not 
> cost as much (no new set-up charge).

Actually Michael, that sounds Canadian.  It is a bit cheaper 
here, even cheaper for me as I use my stencil cutter that I 
use for sandblasting.  It is basically a plotter with a 
cutter instead of a pen.
Basically, they will take a drawing, scan it, and trace it 
as a vector drawing.  I use Photoshop to clean it up then 
Vinyl Express software for the trace.
The drawing can be fairly complex, but you should think of 
it in masses as oppossed to line drawings.
Before the Vinyl cutter, I had some replacement dragons (a 
New Jersey derivitive) for the Welsh Dragons on the Romanys 
made by a sign cutter from a drawing.  Cost less than 90.00 
for about 20 different colored cuttings of the same image. 
As M. said, cheaper because of the single drawing.

-- 
  gabriel l romeu
ø http://studiofurniture.com ø
ø http://journalphoto.org ø
ø http://kayakoutfitting.org ø
ø http://kayaknavigation.com ø

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From: Shawn Baker <shawnkayak_at_yahoo.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] hull marking
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 11:19:38 -0800 (PST)
Gabriel L Romeu <romeug_at_erols.com> wrote:
>There is sign making vinyl that works fine on plastic 
untreated  with 303.  YOu can get a sign making store to cut 
stencils from either a picture or vector text.  

I use the white stuff to make a foredeck nav. slate.  Just cut out a
rectangle (or whatever shape suits your fancy), and peel-n-stick it on
the foredeck--mine's over my right knee...since I'm right-handed!

Would an acetone wipe cut the 303?

A tip I got from the sign guy I bought the vinyl from:  you can mark on
the vinyl with a Sharpie marker, and it won't come off at all under
normal use.  When you want to erase it, spray it with hairspray
(aerosol can--contains acetone) and wipe it right off.

For normal use, I use a Stabilo 'Aquarellable' waterproof pencil.  You
can find them at a local drafting supply store.  The mark doesn't wash
off easily, and it will write when wet--even on glass or smooth
plastic. China marking pencils work well--I've seen eyeliner pencils
used too, but they leave a bit too much residue for my taste.  On the
boat, that is ;)

Shawn


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From: Gabriel L Romeu <romeug_at_erols.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] hull marking
Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 18:42:29 -0500
> 
> Would an acetone wipe cut the 303?
>
I don't know Shawn, I am a bit superstitious about using it. 
  Generally, I try first with bestine or carbon tet.

I had some older vinyl for a boat restored with 
graphite/epoxy mix and the vinyl didn't stick at all.

-- 
  gabriel l romeu
ø http://studiofurniture.com ø
ø http://journalphoto.org ø
ø http://kayakoutfitting.org ø
ø http://kayaknavigation.com ø

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From: Dave Kruger <kdruger_at_pacifier.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] hull marking
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 12:32:11 -0800
Gabriel L Romeu <romeug_at_erols.com> wrote (in response to Shawn):

> Would an acetone wipe cut the 303?

>> I don't know Shawn, I am a bit superstitious about using it.
  Generally, I try first with bestine or carbon tet>>

 Gabriel, what's bestine?

Also, carbon tet (carbon tetrachloride) .is a pretty nasty solvent, not
normally available in the US.  Maybe you have tetrachloroethylene (also a
nasty one)?

FWIW, I use windshield adhesive dissolver, available at auto shops. and
__plenty__ of ventilation when I really need to get a chunk of hull clean.
303 demands that, or lacquer thinner, with a serious hot, soapy water
scrubbing before and after.

--
Dave Kruger
Astoria, OR

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From: Gabriel L Romeu <romeug_at_erols.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] hull marking
Date: Fri, 03 Jan 2003 20:53:08 -0500
Dave Kruger wrote:
> Gabriel L Romeu <romeug_at_erols.com> wrote (in response to Shawn):
> 
> 
>>Would an acetone wipe cut the 303?
> 
> 
>>>I don't know Shawn, I am a bit superstitious about using it.
>>
>   Generally, I try first with bestine or carbon tet>>
> 
>  Gabriel, what's bestine?

Hi Dave, I was hoping you would stop in for the more 
authoritative chemist based advice.  Bestine is a solvent 
sold at art/ graphic supply stores for cleaning paper of 
things like rubber cement.
> 
> Also, carbon tet (carbon tetrachloride) .is a pretty nasty solvent, not
> normally available in the US.  Maybe you have tetrachloroethylene (also a
> nasty one)?
> 

Probably the slang term for contact cleaner used on 
electrical components.

> FWIW, I use windshield adhesive dissolver, available at auto shops. and
> __plenty__ of ventilation when I really need to get a chunk of hull clean.
> 303 demands that, or lacquer thinner, with a serious hot, soapy water
> scrubbing before and after.

Thanks for that DAve.

-- 
  gabriel l romeu
ø http://studiofurniture.com ø
ø http://journalphoto.org ø
ø http://kayakoutfitting.org ø
ø http://kayaknavigation.com ø

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