Re: [Paddlewise] Bunch of Stuff

Joan asks:>>Does anyone have any solutions for this problem?  I haven't done
so yet, but
I am going to try padding the seat a bit (i.e., using a ThermoRest pad,at
least to begin with).  I don't know what that will do to center of gravity &
stability, but I also don't know how much it will help.  Replacing the
coaming is probably not an option.<<

Seat pads will help with the coaming dilema.  So will moving the seat
forward.  One affects stability the other trim.  Raising the seat will also
give you more leverage in your paddle strokes and leverage over edge
control.  Racers like high seats.  moving it forward could make it hard to
get a leg out without lifting your butt up first, IMHO not a good thing.  I
dislike ocean cockpits for this reason.  we do alot of technical landings/
launches/ rescues where  cockpit clearance is King.

Start with your therma rest 1/2 inflated, but realize a thermarest is
squishy and will be unlike a *solid* foam pad.  Use it for stability
feedback.  If it works go with a solid pad, glued in.  I have raised the
seat in the Milly with 5/8" foam pad to great advantage.

btw, a friend had Seaward rebuild his Legend cockpit to a low slung rim and
it is sweet, tho it cost him $800 Canadian.


 Then Duane Strosaker said:
> > More on failing skegs: During the recent skeg reliability discussion on
> this
> > list, the Kajak Sport skeg system received some good comments. Well,
after
> > some surf launches and landings today, a friend's Kajak Sport skeg
jammed
> up
> > and the cable in the hatch area is bowing when the rod-mounted knob is
> pulled
> > back to try to deploy the skeg. Fortunately, this kayak is not skeg
> dependant.
> > By the way, I still think Kajak Sport has some of the best quality
kayaks
> and
> > skegs on the market.

This will happen whenever ANY skeg cable is pushed when the skeg blade is
pinned.  I've seen it on lots of boats.  Something's gotta give.  With
NDK/VCP it's the cable at the skeg or at the slider.  It bows out and viola,
SKEG REPAIR.  KS it's usually just inside the cockpit or dayhatch.  You need
to epoxy the tube back onto the sidewall of the boat, a PITA. With CD I've
seen the cable bow at the slider (old style) and have yet to see a new style
fail.  That's why the NDK/VCP bungie system is so bomber, no chance of
bending a bungie.  But this system comes with a whole buttload of other
issues!

Skeg rule # 1.  Do NOT force the slider.

>
and finally Steve writes:>>
> I think you will find that the skeg on your new Current Designs boat will
be
> pretty much trouble free. The skeg in my Gulfstream only jammed once and
> that was when a 350 pound woman, decided I needed help launching while I
was
> attaching my skirt. She came up, pushed down with all of her weight on my
> boat and at the same time pushed me into the surf. After about 20 minutes,
> all of the sand and gravel washed out and the skeg operated normally
again.

Skeg rule # 2.  Carry a skeg tool for clearing the debris.  We use a Thrift
store table knife ground down to a bit of a hook, like a climbers nut tool,
with a "around the wrist" tether.  You get one whenever you buy a skeg boat
from us.  AJ did they give you one with your Tempest?

>
> The only other problem with them that I am aware of occurs with the older
> sliders that CD used like the one I have. Instead of a rod, mine is a
cable
> and if you are not careful, it is easy to pull away from the boat and that
> will cause the cable to kink.

The rod is only 8" long and is hollow.  Inside the rod (tube) is the same
ol' cable.  Manufacturers are using the wrong cable for skegs.  Typical skeg
cable is sailboat rigging cable meant to hold up a mast not do *push/pull*
service.  We are working on a new system that might blow away present day
skeg technology.  But don't hold your breath!

steve


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