[Paddlewise] Hull Repairs

Sorry 'bout the poor edits last post regarding hull repairs - was kind of a
rush post.

I did want to add that for those who have not figured it out yet, "flowcoat"
and "gelcoat" are synonymous  -- I would think. For moderate gouges to a FG
hull with gelcoat, dribbling a little gelcoat into the defect isn't hard to
do at all. Just don't make too big a batch at a time, as you can only apply
a miniscule amount at a time. In fact, the hardest part is figuring how
little hardener to add to the small amount of decanted gelcoat, so that the
batch in your mixing cup doesn't continually go hard before application.

I like the small clear mixing cups you can buy in bulk (must hold a few
ounces at best). Add a drop of liquid hardener to the gelcoat in the cup,
mix, and then drip off the stir stick and work into the gouge. Level off
with a razor, scraper, or in my case, I like to use the 1/2" exacto knives
(the kind you can break off a fresh edge after each use). I take the blade
right out of the knife, or use blades from a refill pack, and then level the
gelcoat off that way. I find the flexibility of the blade allows me to
conform the blade to the curvature of the hull section I'm working on. Sand
when dry with wet and dry sandpaper, then apply a second fill coat if the
first one has shrunk (it usually will). Final sanding and buffing should
restore things to fairly normal. Bulk-bought popsicle type stir sticks work
well in the above situation too.

I'd be careful about using too coarse a grit of sandpaper. Too fine and you
will just "polish the bumps" and too coarse, you will introduce too deep a
scratch pattern (unnecessarily). I'd feel free to experiment on a small
section of a well used hull, as you probably can't make things too worse. On
a really well-worn hull, there probably isn't going to be a new-looking
shiny section left on the underbelly anyway, so just fill and sand away,
then buff.

The trick with polyester resin products is learning about the chemistry, the
mixing ratios, and the application technology. One can get into a fair bit
of new information like waxed resins versus unwaxed resins, and nothing
beats a supplier who hands out do-it-yourself worksheets and/or has the
staff capacity and patience to answer the neophyte's questions -- some times
a few times over.

I should also mention that Dave Kruger indicated the black line around the
VCP Pintail was probably an extrusion. This would not be the case with a VCP
boat as far as I know. Current Design uses this system with the "H"
extrusion to join hull to deck, backed by an inside tape seam. I've heard
few complaints with that system, and it certainly keeps its high-tech look
for years-to-come, though I also know a few paddlers (very few) who have had
the odd bit of leaking issue.

On a separate note, I'd like to add that this is a whole area (different
kayak building methods) where kayakers, including myself, can do a
disservice to other paddlers/manufactures by saying things like "don't by a
CD kayak, it has "H" extrusions, or, only buy a Brit boat as they are way
tougher. I don't think there are any manufactures out there who will not
accommodate modifications to the building regime if you order a custom boat.
CD can add outside seams if you want for example, Matt Broze will make an 80
pound Kevlar Coaster if you want a bomb-proof rock garden kayak without
bulkhead stress-riser potential downfalls, Seaward will cut down the rear
deck coaming of a preselected model you are interested in if you want more
freedom for layback rolls, etc., etc. I don't think much is written in stone
anymore. First time buyers are probably not going to be given a vast list of
permutations, nor should they be. There are enough confusing issues to deal
with already. But the savvy first-time buyer, guide, or the second-time
buyer, may want to ask a few more questions other than what color it comes
in.

One last thing (and I'm sorry, I deleted the last digest too early for names
and original subject headers), there was also a question about bungee cord
(shock cord, etc) replacement. There are a couple of different grades out
there. I try to buy the black stuff that has a _bit of a sheen_ to it. It
holds up better to UV damage, and fuzzes and debraids less. I also usually
recommend replacement with a slightly larger diameter too, as well as the
perimeter line spoken about in the last posts. (I noticed the new Tempest
has gorgeous and robust deck appointments - very cool). I use electrical
shrink-tube on the ends of all my bungee lines, after knotting and/or
crimping with stainless steel crimps, then make a clean end cut 1/16 of an
inch back, to leave a clean end. Then again, I'm not as anal as I used to be
with kayak repairs n' maintenance -- what with life just ticking away and so
many new waterways yet unkayaked, and so many regularly traveled waterways
yet unkayaked in differing, varied conditions...   :-(

Doug Lloyd
Victoria BC

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"Whatever can be said at all can be said clearly and whatever cannot be said
clearly should not be said at all."
Ludwig Wittgenstein
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