----- Original Message ----- From: <Needfreed_at_wmconnect.com> > In a message dated 6/3/2003 8:40:42 AM Central Standard Time, > jkayak_at_sopoint.com writes: > > > > I think this is still a weakness in the design which could benefit from > > some sort of locking device...preferably a retrofit. (Are you listening > > Feathercraft?) > > I know FC is proud of their coaming but I've had the same troubles: it's very > difficult to get it in properly on my BK. If you don't get it in right, it's > not secure. And the recommendation about not putting weight on the coaming > seems to be more evidence the thing doesn't work correctly. Other Feathercraft singles have a way for the coaming to be secured with a clamp at each end of the coaming. That clamp comes up from the crossrib in each area. The attachment of the coaming in the later production years of the K-Light and on the entire Kahuna production run has been greatly improved. The improvement has come in the length of, and material used, for the beaded hem of the skin that fits into the groove on the coaming and effectively locks both together. The problem I see with loose coamings is that paddlers don't shove that bead in deeply enough. You can really feel a difference when you do it right. You can almost sense that final step clicking in. What I do is make certain I have the bead in all away around the coaming (starting with the rear area, switching the front end and then putting the sides in). Then I go around again shoving the bead deeply in using the heel of my hand and finger tips. That bead should disappear fully out of sight. Once fully inserted and the sponsons inflated, you can pick up the boat by the coaming and it will not come out. As for where to place weight on the coaming when entering and exiting the kayak, you definitely want to keep your weight off it and instead have your hands on the deck near the crossrib at the rear of the coaming. This was suggested by Jeff as helpful in keeping the bead on the coaming from pulling out. I think a more important reason is not to stress the coaming itself. People have cracked coamings by placing weight on them while entering or exiting. The coamings are free-floating similar to coamings on Greenland skinboats. Pressure on the coaming could crack them. Around 1997 or so, Feathercraft upgraded the construction of the coaming and this made them a lot tougher (you can tell the difference on older K-Lights by looking at the surface of the coaming--if it shiny, it is the old style, it is more of a matte finish, it is the newer one). But still keep weight off any vintage of coaming. ralph diaz-- ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Ralph Diaz . . . Folding Kayaker newsletter PO Box 0754, New York, NY 10024 Tel: 212-724-5069; E-mail: rdiaz_at_ix.netcom.com "Where's your sea kayak?"----"It's in the bag." ----------------------------------------------------------------------- *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************Received on Tue Jun 03 2003 - 08:11:23 PDT
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