I paddle a CD Gulfstream that started life five years ago with a day hatch cover with a rubber tab and a stainless O-ring through it to make removal of the hatch cover simple while underway. It worked once. The second time I needed access, the stainless O-ring tore through the rubber tab. The rubber tab tore off shortly thereafter. It was worthless anyway, so was the bungee cord that I purposely discarded so I could get my fingers under the rubber rim more quickly. The hatch cover is a round 'Valley'-type, that fits very tight, as it's supposed to, except that for five years I can only get the cover off by myself in calm seas when I can give it my full, but none too patient attention. I paddle mostly along the Maine coast and am fed up with asking to raft up with a buddy when seas are not so calm, as I did yesterday when I needed to get at my paddling jacket. It's an imposition and potentially dangerous. (Even he had a hard time with both hands) Have any of you had the same problem? If so, how have you dealt with it? Do any of you have any ideas for a lubricant that would make removal easier without compromising watertightness? I am told that petroleum-based lunbricants will rot the rubber. Soap was suggested. I haven't tried it, but it is hardly a durable solution. Thanks for any suggestions. Bill Wetzel Dover, NH *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
I have found the VCP day hatch cover on my Romany easy to remove with one hand. Not so, the Kajaksport day hatch on a Dagger I tried once at a show. Try applying 303 to the under side of the cover, and see if that helps. Chuck Holst *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
On 18 Aug 2003 at 12:39, William Wetzel wrote: > Do any of you have any ideas for a lubricant that would > make removal easier without compromising watertightness? I am told > that petroleum-based lunbricants will rot the rubber. You can get silicone-based lubricants, but they might create a seal that generates suction and makes the cover harder to remove. They are available at several sources, including game stores (for foosball tables and stuff), adult stores (condom lubricants) and industrial suppliers (all things rubber). I'd look at getting a replacement cover and try a few to see if they are just a tad larger and looser than the one you have. You could also consider sanding the rim of either the cover or the hatch to make it a bit larger/smaller respectively. I'd do the cover, since it's easier to replace if you mess it up. IIRC, the Valley covers are actually urethane plastic not rubber and are stiffer and harder to use. See if Kayaksport makes a rubber cover the same size. I've used both types on kayaks and greatly prefer the Kayaksport covers that came with my Ellesmere. Mike *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
[Moderator's Note: Content unaltered. Excessive quoting (i.e. headers/footers/sig lines/extraneous text from previous posts, etc.) have been removed. Please edit quoted material in addition to removing header/trailers when replying to posts.] Frequent application of "303" to the inner edge of the hatch cover, as well as to the rim, will make it much easier to remove the cover while not compromising the seal. Incidentally, frequent application of 303 to the entire hatch cover will make it last longer. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: William Wetzel <wewjr_at_comcast.net> Subject: [Paddlewise] Day Hatch Cover Removal > I paddle mostly along the Maine coast and am fed up with > asking to raft up with a buddy when seas are not so calm, as I did > yesterdaywhen I needed to get at my paddling jacket. It's an > imposition and potentially dangerous. (Even he had a hard time with both hands) > Have any of you had the same problem? If so, how have you dealt > with it? Do any of you have any ideas for a lubricant that would make > the hatch cover removal easier without compromising watertightness? > I am told that petroleum-based lubricants will rot the rubber. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Having been away from Paddlewise for a while, I wonder if there may be a better source for Valley hatch covers that DON'T disintegrate.. I need to order a new set for one of my Nordkaaps. Are there any 3rd part covers made? Cya! Bob Denton *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Bob is right on both accounts. I had an issue with my GS hatch covers but now they works, though I do need to pull a bit on the tab for the less frequently used cover. Joan >Have any of you had the same problem? If so, how have you dealt with it? >Do any of you have any ideas for a lubricant that would make removal easier >without compromising watertightness? I am told that petroleum-based >lunbricants will rot the rubber. Soap was suggested. I haven't tried it, >but it is hardly a durable solution. Thanks for any suggestions. > Frequent application of "303" to the inner edge of the hatch cover, as well as to the rim, will make it much easier to remove the cover while not compromising the seal. Incidentally, frequent application of 303 to the entire hatch cover will make it last longer. > Bob *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
As others have said, 303 works well both as a lubricant, but also as a preservative. Keep it fresh on inside and out to protect from smog and UV rot. Another help -- remove your hatch cover once or twice soon after launching to relieve any negative pressure caused by launching your relatively warm boat (with all the associated warm interior air) on (relatively) cool water. You could also drill a small pressure relief hole in the center of the forward bulkhead to prevent the suction from occurring. Lastly -- I've discovered I can remove any of the balkier covers much easier by peeling it off with the offside hand. For example, if your dayhatch is on the right side and you can't get it off with the right hand, twist to your left and reach across the rear deck with your left hand, grip the cover on the outside / far / right side, and peel it up and off, back towards the center of the deck. If you feel unsteady doing this, simultaneously hold your paddle extended out from the left side of the boat, the left blade 4-6 inches below the surface and the shaft braced on the peak of the deck, holding the shaft at or near the left gunnel with your right hand to brace and steady the boat. By the way -- I personally find the VCP hatches much easier to remove and install than the KajakSport hatches. Harold *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
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