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From: Rafael Mier-Maza <silidriel_at_prodigy.net.mx>
subject: [Paddlewise] Trip report. Tuxpan to Island of Birds
Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2004 00:46:25 -0500
Time arrived. Trip done. 37 nautical miles in two days from Eden in
Tuxpan to the paradisiacal Island of Birds with 12 inch body giant
shrimp, 6 inch crabs, 16 -20 inch trouts, robalo, catfish, etc. Several
firsts. First ecological trip Tuxpan-Tamiahua, as called by Josi. First
time to do 37 nautical miles for Jose Rivera and myself.

Location. Tamiahua Lagoon. Veracruz State North of Tuxpan and South of
Tampico Gulf of Mexico.

Statistics: First day 19.92 nmiles. 6:05 hours. 3.6 knots moving
average. 3.3 total average.
Second day 16.74 nmiles. 5:43 hours. 3.1 knots moving average, 2.9 knots
average.

Wind, waves and currents affected performance on second day.

Pictures at http://community.webshots.com/user/cayucochief

FIRST DAY.- Tuxpan, Sat 24, Start 7:15 AM parting from (small world)
same place where Arthur Hebert and Larry Koenig the Gulf of Mexico
circumnavigators slept last year. I just found out that the owner of the
place, and host of the adventurers Fidel Rivera  is Jose^Rs uncle, and I
just met Jose 4 months ago.

Launch is in channel going North to Tampamachoco Lagoon, where we found
no wind and favorable current. Were making 4.5 to 5 knots in first hour.
Great beginning. Passed by Thermoelectrical plant and went on through
shrimp traps, spread all over. This is a shrimp industry, just like the
wind mills in the New Mixico Desert. These traps are open V made with
branches or bamboo and the vertex is where shrimp concentrates and is
caught. Some are oriented up current and some down, since it changes
direction with tides, and shrimp follow the current. We pass in between
gaps in branches.

Ending the lagoon (4 nm) there is a channel 6nm long, with marshes on
the sides, small red crabs all over, and slight current against us.
Shallow water, quiet paddle, few motor boats. Fishermen surprised of our
starting point and planned destiny. Every now and then there is a sand
bar and sea water current going in or out depending on tide.

Jose knows the route. I have compass, GPS and chart where I wrote down
magnetic bearing, distance and reference points. Jose felt tired. Lack
of sleep started affecting him. Heat was strong. Long right curve and
then left and a small right detour. I passed it. My GPS advised against,
and Jose told me to take it. My GPS was pleased. If I had been alone
would have lost precious time.

The channel broadens, fish and shrimp jump all over, we keep going.
Suddenly a motor boat comes behind with laughs and shouts. It brings our
families and gear. 4 hours have passed. We talk, receive a sardine
sandwich and they joyfully part. We still have about 6nm to go. Jose
kept wanting to rest more often. His speed was lower. He had cramps in
his arms. He held the paddle too tight. I advised to loosen his hand and
he felt improvements. I rolled once to refresh myself. He stopped and
walked into the water. We had drunk two quarters of Gatorade each,
almost half a gallon of water, and had eaten energy food, dry fruits,
almonds, nuts and raisins in  small amounts, every now and then.

Finally we reached the big Tamiahua Lagoon Sand bar and  met our
families by the beach. They had set camp with telescope, stoves, hot
food, beer for themselves, port-a-putty without shelter. Slightly
embarrassing but good sight seeing while on the job, if you didn^Rt mind
to be seen. Some people used towels to isolate the guy at work. Placed
our camping tents, rested and enjoyed the friendly company of Jose^Rs big
family with wife, daughter, son in law, grandson, father, brothers,
uncles and cousins. All of them flattered to see their relative
accomplishing the first leg of the trip. My wife Lety, Gus and Andi swam
and enjoyed the hospitality, warm water, nice weather (maybe too hot),
good dinner and good night sleep.

SECOND DAY.- July 25. Launch 7 Am. Starting to go up North on, perhaps,
the biggest Lagoon in Mexico, tide dependent, with two main entrances.
One where we were and the other way up North close to Tampico. Our
narrow channel may move fast in full moon. Would like to see that happen
if it goes my way, but this weekend was half moon. It was really quiet,
windless, great, for only one hour. After the Tamiahua town, where the
lake opens, wind started to blow to about 18 ^V 20  knots, from our front
left quarter. I pointed to the tip of a big Island that splits the
lagoon in two. Jose kept moving left and I paid no attention. Finally he
came and said that he did not want to tackle the waves, and rather move
close to the coast, protected from wind and waves.

WE SPLIT.- The coast extends west or left to make a big arc and gets
close to the Island again on a straight just before the lake opens. I
started going his way but decided that it was too much a sacrifice and
rather stayed moving North West, watching him by the coast and moving
slowly as he progressed around. He was getting smaller and suddenly lost
sight of him. Waited for a while and finally decided to return to my
route and get to the side where the goods motor boat was going to pass
and ask them to go back and get him. I had some distance to recover and
paddled hard against the coming waves. Finally reached the West bank of
the Island by the straight and decided to take a break while waiting for
the boat. Four hours had passed. I stretched my legs, emptied, ate some
energy food, had some Gatorade, refilled my camel bag. As I was doing
all that I saw him passing steadily by the land side. I couldn^Rt believe
it.  So his approach made sense.

I started paddling again and thought he had about 5 minutes advantage.
His pace seemed strong and  appeared as faster than mine. Suddenly a
first family motor boat came as I was passing some shrimp traps. They
stopped and tried to make conversation, offer assistance, etc. I told
them Jose was up front and finally they parted. I wished they would
entertain Jose but he sent them away immediately. Five minutes later my
family boat passed by. Again many questions, worried about me being
behind, etc. After some talk they left. I counted the seconds they
stopped with Jose but was only a sigh. He would not accept to be
interrupted. The lake was opening. Our Island looked like a little line
in the horizon in spite of its large trees and marshes. He meant to get
there fast. He was determined to tackle the bigger waves and wind that
were growing. Heavy clouds appeared ahead coming our way.

I paddled steady. Didn^Rt drink water. Reviewed my style. Torso rotation,
pushing with the foot, pushing with upper hand, etc. Wind and waves were
pushing us right. I kept course by leaning. When Jose drifted and
corrected  direction I knew I was winning some time, but he still looked
very small. About half way I saw him lower the paddle and rest for very
few seconds. I said, finally he is getting tired. He had done a
tremendous effort due to the extra distance. I kept going and his rest
periods increased and got longer. Finally I got by his side and we
talked about the strange weather for this time of the year and the
mutual feeling that the other was not going to make it after we split,
and paddled at a good pace until we reached the nice smooth long beach
where children were swimming and all the families gathered to welcome
us, in front of their own built cottage.

No more restraints. Pictures and good cold beer, rum, giant shrimp,
fish, liver, big crabs, etc.

We camped there Monday. On Tuesday noon we placed the kayaks on the
boats, cooked some more shrimps and crabs to eat on the way, and
traveled back to Tuxpan in a 3 and a half hours trip, eating and
drinking and joking.

Thanks Jose for your hospitality. You really have a share of paradise.
I^Rll be happy to paddle with you again any time in front of new
challenges.

Best Regards,

Rafael
El cayucochief
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