Re: [Paddlewise] Towlines

In a message dated 4/4/2005 9:55:35 PM Pacific Standard Time,  
ptreby_at_ozemail.com.au writes:

As an  exercise, I have tried deliberately going over in a 3-4 knot 
current while  towing. Rolling up was OK. As soon I stopped paddling and 
went over, the  towline went slack.
If a capsized towed boat is being pulled backwards by  current or 
breaking wave, in current, when the tower stops towing, both  boats then 
drift at the same rate, and the tow can be unclipped. With a  breaking 
wave, the wave passes, and the tow can be unclipped. Quick  release might 
be needed if one boat becomes stuck. What if the towed boat  becomes 
jammed on a rock or jetty, while being towed in a current? The  towing 
boat then tries to disengage while the tow line is under tension.  While 
pulling back to get slack in the line, the towing boat goes  broadside to 
the current and capsizes. The tower cannot roll up against  the 
current... trouble, time for the knife. Perhaps it is unsafe to tow  near 
obstacles in current. Perhaps when towing a knife should be  handy.
In the towing situations I can think of, if the towed boat goes  over, 
the tower stops paddling, the towline goes slack, and can be taken  off.
Could it also be useful for the towed boat to have a quick release  
attachment? Are there any tow systems which allow for  this?



I was with a friend who built an SOF for a trip and when I looked at his  
minimalist deck lines with an eye for towing points in case the need arose, he  
asked me to clip it to where he could release it if he had to. That said,  I 
like the bale on Wichard snap hooks as it is wide and the hook part  requires a 
bit less motion to undo. If the deck lines allow for the hook to be  drawn to 
within reaching distance then the hook can be be undone by pulling it  within 
reach. If I was the tower and upside down the belt or deck bag would be  off 
before the tow could do that though.
 
On other issues, a tow can go bad and require quick release. Why wait for  
the wave to pass? Dump it and start over. Hopefully, your other mates will be  
able to clip on quickly and let you get reset. Let's just assume a tower has a  
20' line with 2 biners on either end. The tower clips one biner to a deck 
line  and the other to the towee. It could be released in many situations but as 
the  time of that release increases because of sea state the less desirable it 
would  be to have that tow in place any longer than one has to. A quick 
release system  can be made cheaply with basic components from a marine chandlery 
and a couple  hours time. The easiest system to make is a deck mounted one. 1 
pair of bolts  and nuts for the jamcleat and 1 pair for the fairlead. Took 20 
minutes. A  throwbag that is easily stuffable is all that is required after 
that. Releasing  it takes 1 second. 
 
 
Harold wrote: "One additional advantage of a body-mounted tow system over a  
boat-mounted  
system is the higher towing point it provides.  The  higher  the rope is 
secured 
above the deck, the less the tow rope  tends  to hook over the stern of your 
boat or foul in your  rudder.  If the  rope hooks over your stern, the towed 
boat 
will  constantly pull your  boat off course as it veers off to one side or 
the  
other.  It is also  easier to reach back and grab the rope to  clear it off 
the stern when issuing  from the middle of your  back."
 
My waist belted tow systems have never given me a body blow because I wear  
them around my hips which takes a pretty good load. I prefer deck mounted  
because I do not appreciate the higher center of gravity of a pfd system in  
rougher water. I've not seen the towed boat influence my direction because  it 
hooked over my stern. Clearing the line of a rear deck snag is not hard  because I 
prefer a clean rear deck. Choices, choices, choices. I do advocate  that 
people have a readily deployable and releasable towing system, after that I  like 
what you like.  
 
Rob G
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