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From: Dave Kruger <kdruger_at_pacifier.com>
subject: [Paddlewise] Weatherhelming versus Weathercocking Usage
Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2006 18:35:19 -0700
I got bollixed up and misused "weather helming" to refer to a boat which 
was lee cocking.  I did not realize weather helm was an exact substitute 
for weathercock.

Does anybody have a link to an authoritative etymology of these terms?

Thanks a heap.

-- 
Dave Kruger
Astoria, OR
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From: PeterO <rebyl_kayak_at_iprimus.com.au>
subject: RE: [Paddlewise] Weatherhelming versus Weathercocking Usage
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 20:36:44 +1000
Dave wrote: -
>I got bollixed up and misused "weather helming"
>to refer to a boat which was lee cocking.  I did
>not realize weather helm was an exact substitute
>for weathercock.
>Does anybody have a link to an authoritative etymology
>of these terms?


G'Day Dave,

Kayakwiki (<http://kayakwiki.org/index.php/Weathercocking> and
<http://kayakwiki.org/index.php/Skeg>) describes weathercocking, leecocking
and lee helm, but doesn't mention weather helm.

Last time this came up in a debate on skeg's and rudders I remember seeing a
post written by Kris Buttermore describing skeg's, It was on a site
associated with Guillemot Kayaks. The site uses all four terms. Kris uses
three.
http://www.kayakforum.com/cgi-bin/Technique/index.cgi/noframes/read/23212 .

Kris' usage suggested a subtle difference for the terms weathercock and
weather helm, or leecock and lee helm. The part word "helm" seemed to be
used to indicate a property of the boat or what the helmsman had to do to
correct its tendency to turn up or down wind and the suffix "cock" or
"cocking" to indicate what the boat did.  A bit like Indonesian that uses
prefixes and suffixes with imported western words to turn them into verbs,
nouns, adjectives etc.  Quoting from the page just to illustrate: -

"The skeg simply prevents unwanted turning into the wind (weathercocking)
and balances the hull to the wind (neutral weatherhelm)"

and

"Since a rudder acts like a fully deployed skeg it can actually make some
otherwise well balance boats leecock"

Further support for this is in the number of usages as a present participle
on the internet. As a rough check try looking up weathercocking (874),
weatherhelming (50), leecocking (236), lee helming (146).

Worth noting that an internet search suggests hardly anyone in the sailing
community uses the word leecock which seems to be mainly used by kayakers.

Anyway as I understand it the more common usage is that "weathercock" is
when a boat turns up wind and weather helm the property of a boat or
possibly what one does to a boat, that makes it turn up wind. Likewise "lee
helm" is the property of a boat that makes it turn down wind etc and to a
smaller extent kayakers using "leecock" for when a kayak turns downwind.

Maybe all a load of dingo kidneys though!! Can any sailors shed further
light?


All the best, PeterO
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From: PeterO <rebyl_kayak_at_iprimus.com.au>
subject: RE: [Paddlewise] Weatherhelming versus Weathercocking Usage
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 22:00:45 +1000
Dave wrote: -
>I got bollixed up and misused "weather helming"
>to refer to a boat which was lee cocking.  I did
>not realize weather helm was an exact substitute
>for weathercock.
>Does anybody have a link to an authoritative etymology
>of these terms?


G'Day Dave,

Its suprisingly hard to find authoritative definitions let alone etymology.
Here's an interesting one from an 1847 text that you've probably seen
already, plus a few others.


WEATHER HELM & LEE HELM

http://www.bruzelius.info/Nautica/Etymology/English/Kipping(1847).html
"Weather Helm. - A ship is said to carry a weather helm when she is inclined
to come too near the wind, and therefore requires the helm to be kept
constantly a little to windward. "

The tendency of a boat to head up toward the eye of the wind. The opposite
of lee helm.
www.terrax.org/sailing/glossary/gw.aspx

When the tiller has to be held off the centre line and toward the weather
side or wind to keep a boat on its course.
www.amya.org/sailmanual/appendix2.html

The natural tendency o a sailboat to turn toward the wind, which the
helmsman feels as the tiller tries to turn to leeward.
www.dungeoneering.net/features.php5


WEATHERCOCKING AND LEECOCKING

http://kayakwiki.org/index.php/Weathercocking
Weathercocking is the name given to the tendency of a kayak to turn into the
wind when moving forward. The opposite of weathercocking is leecocking.


All the best, PeterO
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From: Dave Kruger <kdruger_at_pacifier.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Weatherhelming versus Weathercocking Usage
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 05:14:05 -0700
PeterO wrote:

> Its suprisingly hard to find authoritative definitions let alone etymology.
> Here's an interesting one from an 1847 text that you've probably seen
> already, plus a few others.
> 
> 
> WEATHER HELM & LEE HELM
> 
> http://www.bruzelius.info/Nautica/Etymology/English/Kipping(1847).html
> "Weather Helm. - A ship is said to carry a weather helm when she is inclined
> to come too near the wind, and therefore requires the helm to be kept
> constantly a little to windward. "
> 
> The tendency of a boat to head up toward the eye of the wind. The opposite
> of lee helm.
> www.terrax.org/sailing/glossary/gw.aspx
> 
> When the tiller has to be held off the centre line and toward the weather
> side or wind to keep a boat on its course.
> www.amya.org/sailmanual/appendix2.html
> 
> The natural tendency o a sailboat to turn toward the wind, which the
> helmsman feels as the tiller tries to turn to leeward.
> www.dungeoneering.net/features.php5
> 
> 
> WEATHERCOCKING AND LEECOCKING
> 
> http://kayakwiki.org/index.php/Weathercocking
> Weathercocking is the name given to the tendency of a kayak to turn into the
> wind when moving forward. The opposite of weathercocking is leecocking.

Thanks, Peter, that is an impressive selection of sources.  I think I am 
satisfied.

-- 
Dave Kruger
Astoria, OR
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From: <cholst_at_bitstream.net>
subject: RE: [Paddlewise] Weatherhelming versus Weathercocking Usage
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 13:04:06 -0500 (CDT)
...Or, to put it more simply, "weathercock" and "leecock" are the verb
forms, and "weather helm" and "lee helm" are the noun forms.

Chuck Holst
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From: Craig Jungers <crjungers_at_gmail.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Weatherhelming versus Weathercocking Usage
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 10:38:51 -0700
On 9/24/06, Dave Kruger <kdruger_at_pacifier.com> wrote:
>
> I got bollixed up and misused "weather helming" to refer to a boat which
> was lee cocking.  I did not realize weather helm was an exact substitute for
> weathercock.
>
> Does anybody have a link to an authoritative etymology of these terms?


Other replies have given a pretty good list of sources for the etymology but
I'm not sure they explained exactly what "weather helm" is.

First the term: "Weather helm" is the term used when the sailboat's tendency
to turn into the wind has to be countered by holding the tiller towards the
side of the boat the wind is blowing against (the "weather" side).

But, you may well be asking, why does it want to turn into the wind? It's
the combination of wind pushing against the sails and the resistance of the
keel against the water. Take a simple example of a sloop with one mast
having a "main sail" mounted on the aft of the mast and a "jib sail"
forward).  If you look at a side view of a sloop you will notice that the
mast is stepped forward of the center of the boat (often waaay forward).
With no sails up a sloop will tend to "fall off" the wind (turn downwind or
"leecock") because the wind blowing against the side of the boat will be
pushing against mostly the mast. The combination of wind thrust forward and
keel resistance aft will rotate the boat downwind.

If the sloop has only the main up then the wind thrust aft will overcome the
keel resistance aft and the sailboat will rotate into the wind. Most sloops
have their greatest weather helm if only the main is up. But even with the
main and the jib most sailboats will still exhibit some weather helm because
it's safest; if the helmsman falls overboard the boat will turn into the
wind and stop.

There are technical names for these forces, you may not be surprised to
learn:

The sum of all the wind forces acting on all the parts of the boat that are
above the water is a point known as the "center of effort".

The sum of all the water forces acting on all the parts of the hull that are
below the water is known as the "center of lateral resistance".

On any boat, any time the center of effort is aft of the center of lateral
resistance that boat, left to its own devices, will rotate into the wind
(weathercock) and any time it's forward of the center of lateral resistance
the boat will rotate downwind (leecock).

This all works exactly the same on a kayak too. Just imagine that it's your
body poking up into the wind that's acting as a sail (and for some of us
there is more sail than for others of us). If your body is forward of the
center of lateral resistance then the kayak will tend rotate downwind
(leecock). If you don't want it to do this you can either move the center of
effort aft or move the center of lateral resistance forward.

Take a look at your kayak from the side. Chances are that the cockpit is
slightly aft of the middle of the boat. In this case your kayak will almost
certainly have a tendency to weathercock or turn into the wind. If moving
your seating position to maximum doesn't change the way your kayak handles
in wind then you have to make some adjustments.

This is why a small adjustable skeg changes the way your kayak reacts in the
wind so effectively; it moves the center of lateral resistance. Remember
that when the center of effort (um... that would be you, mostly) is aft of
the center of lateral resistance (the sum of all the underwater resistance
forces acting on your kayak's hull) your boat will weathercock. Moving that
center of lateral resistance aft will tend to neutralize that and an
adjustable skeg can be used to create exactly the right balance between wind
and water so you go more-or-less straight.

What if you don't have an adjustable skeg? Well, if your kayak is
weathercocking so much that you find it difficult to control, you could add
some windage forward or subtract some windage aft. A great huge pile of gear
in one spot or another is bound to do it. <grin> But there are easier ways.

You could simply deploy - but not necessarily use - your rudder. As soon as
you deploy your rudder you have added an effective keel and subtracted an
effective sail; both way aft on your boat. This moves the center of effort
forward and the center of lateral resistance aft. So if your kayak is
uncontrollably turning into the wind merely putting the rudder into the
water should help. But, because the rudder is so far aft (and because it's
difficult to just deploy the rudder a little bit), it's possible that you
could turn a kayak that weathercocks into one that leecocks.

The rudder also can add a turning moment to the equation but this is only
effective when the hull is moving forward or backwards through the water.
And it works by adding resistance to that movement and "pushing" the stern
to one side or the other and thereby making the bow point at something else.
You can overcome a great deal of your boat's natural tendency to leecock or
weathercock by using a rudder but it will always add at least some drag; the
more the rudder has to overcome the greater the drag.

What if you have neither a rudder nor a skeg? Well there are still ways to
change the balance of your kayak but most of the easy ones aren't available
to you. You'll have to have some understanding of your kayak and how to
change its balance (that is, the balance between center of effort and center
of lateral resistance... not the tippy sort of balance).

During the last spate of weathercocking posts several people mentioned that
if they load their kayaks differently they can alter its behavior in wind.
This is because they are changing both the center of effort (windage) and
the center of lateral resistance. If the bow of your kayak sticks waaaay up
in the wind that adds windage forward (moves the center of effort forward)
and makes the boat more likely to leecock. Adding gear in the foward
compartment sinks the bow deeper in the water and reduces windage (moves the
center of effort aft) while adding to the effective keel area (moving the
center of lateral resistance forward). Likewise, adding weight aft sinks the
stern of the boat reducing windage and moving the center of effort forward
while simultaneously moving the center of lateral resistance aft.

The same things happen when you move your seat forward and backwards; the
balance between center of effort and center of resistance changes.

So if you have no skeg or rudder you will need to evaluate the weather and
sea conditions for your trip. Of course, we should all do this anyway and
most of us who paddle regularly understand pretty well what conditions cause
our kayaks to become difficult to handle. But those without access to quick
changes in their boat's balance need to be more closely aware of these
conditions.

So Dave... you asked what time it was and I more-or-less told you how to
build a watch. Hope it helped.  :)


Craig Jungers
Royal City, WA
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From: Dave Kruger <kdruger_at_pacifier.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Weatherhelming versus Weathercocking Usage
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 18:08:23 -0700
Craig Jungers wrote:

> So Dave... you asked what time it was and I more-or-less told you how to 
> build a watch. Hope it helped.  :)

Busy building the watch, and altering my center of effort by consuming mass 
quantities of beer!  Stuff must be good for you -- has B vitamins in it!

--
Dave Kruger
Astoria, OR
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From: Mark Perkins <marker_at_gmail.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Weatherhelming versus Weathercocking Usage
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 11:49:59 -0700
On 9/25/06, Craig Jungers <crjungers_at_gmail.com> wrote:
>
> On any boat, any time the center of effort is aft of the center of lateral
> resistance that boat, left to its own devices, will rotate into the wind
> (weathercock) and any time it's forward of the center of lateral
> resistance
> the boat will rotate downwind (leecock).


I wanted to expand a little bit on Craig's excellent treatise on balance in
sailboats and kayaks. Before I started kayaking, I sailed small boats (14')
competitively.

It turns out, as Craig mentioned, that boats go fastest when the rudder is
not actively steering the boat (i.e. when one does not have to put pressure
on the tiller or foot pedals). A sailboat with a large amount of weather or
lee helm will experience additional drag because of the steering required.
One exercise we sometimes employed was to pull out the rudder and steer the
boat entirely with the sails and our position in the boat. This taught us
how to balance the sailboat for optimal efficiency - and provided some
entertainment to people watching.

Where this whole topic becomes really critical is in windsurfing. Since
windsurfers have no rudders, they can only be steered by balancing the
center of lateral resistance against the center of effort, i.e. by rotating
the mast/sail fore and aft or, to a lesser degree, shifting one's weight on
the board. So, while most boats are more efficient when properly balanced, a
windsurfer will not even sail when out of balance.

Or, as Miyoko Ohno said, "Balance is beautiful"

-Mark
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From: Gary J. MacDonald <garyj_at_rogers.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Weatherhelming versus Weathercocking Usage
Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 22:22:45 -0400
Dave Kruger wrote:
> 
> Busy building the watch, and altering my center of effort by consuming 
> mass quantities of beer!  Stuff must be good for you -- has B vitamins 
> in it!

I have heard it said that Irish Coffee is the only thing that has all 4 critical 
food groups in it:  sugar, fat, caffeine and alcohol.

GaryJ
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From: Tord Eriksson <tord_at_tord.nu>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Weatherhelming versus Weathercocking Usage
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 12:26:00 +0200
On Tuesday 26 September 2006 13:18, Craig wrote:

(snip)


> What if you have neither a rudder nor a skeg? Well there are still ways
> to change the balance of your kayak but most of the easy ones aren't
> available to you. You'll have to have some understanding of your kayak
> and how to change its balance (that is, the balance between center of
> effort and center of lateral resistance... not the tippy sort of
> balance).
>
> During the last spate of weathercocking posts several people mentioned
> that if they load their kayaks differently they can alter its behavior
> in wind. This is because they are changing both the center of effort
> (windage) and the center of lateral resistance. If the bow of your kayak
> sticks waaaay up in the wind that adds windage forward (moves the center
> of effort forward) and makes the boat more likely to leecock. Adding
> gear in the foward compartment sinks the bow deeper in the water and
> reduces windage (moves the center of effort aft) while adding to the
> effective keel area (moving the center of lateral resistance forward).
> Likewise, adding weight aft sinks the stern of the boat reducing windage
> and moving the center of effort forward while simultaneously moving the
> center of lateral resistance aft.
>
> The same things happen when you move your seat forward and backwards;
> the balance between center of effort and center of resistance changes.
>
> So if you have no skeg or rudder you will need to evaluate the weather
> and sea conditions for your trip. Of course, we should all do this
> anyway and most of us who paddle regularly understand pretty well what
> conditions cause our kayaks to become difficult to handle. But those
> without access to quick changes in their boat's balance need to be more
> closely aware of these conditions.

Excellent explanation, Craig (hope you're well!)!

After having some leecocking problems we found that our Klepper Aerius II 
behaved very well when we added a oversize rudder and a mizzen, as the 
leecocking effect is compensated by the weathercocking effect of the 
mizzen. By releasing the mizzen sheet the boat turns downwind easily, and 
vice versa.

So we always carry the mizzen, while the other sails (and mast) are used
when we want to!

Nice to be back on Paddlewise!

Tord,
Sweden

www.foldingkayaks.org/gallery/tord

And how we load the boat doesn't affect it at all - as the power of the 
rudder and the mizzen is far greater than the effect of the hull, or
equipment strapped to the forward deck!
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From: Craig Jungers <crjungers_at_gmail.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Weatherhelming versus Weathercocking Usage
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 14:01:57 -0400
Hi Tord!

Nice to see you back.

On 9/27/06, Tord Eriksson <tord_at_tord.nu> wrote:
>
>
> Excellent explanation, Craig (hope you're well!)!


Very well thanks. :)


> After having some leecocking problems we found that our Klepper Aerius II
> behaved very well when we added a oversize rudder and a mizzen, as the
> leecocking effect is compensated by the weathercocking effect of the
> mizzen. By releasing the mizzen sheet the boat turns downwind easily, and
> vice versa.


Not many of us can put a mizzen on our kayaks. For those who do not know
what a "mizzen" an explanation is in order. On kayaks the mizzen is
typically set aft of the cockpit which should put it well aft of the center
of resistance.

So we always carry the mizzen, while the other sails (and mast) are used
> when we want to!


Have you experienced any problems with a tendency to capsize when the mizzen
is hit by a gust of wind from the outrigger-side? I'd be very careful to
keep the sheets running clear because with the mizzen mounted aft of the
cockpit should the sheets jam it could become messy. It will also add drag;
but if you're sailing who cares?  <grin>

And how we load the boat doesn't affect it at all - as the power of the
> rudder and the mizzen is far greater than the effect of the hull, or
> equipment strapped to the forward deck!
>

I wouldn't think they would with the combination of a rudder AND a sail at
the aft end of boat.

Sailboat skippers routinely play with the combinations of sails to make the
wind help them maneuver their boat. I routinely set a jib when I'm running
across a river bar along the Washington, Oregon and Calif coastlines (where
the wind is typically onwhore) to help prevent a broach in the following
seas. When I approach a mooring from upwind I drop the jib (and keep the
main set) as I pass the mooring and then turn hard into the wind. The main
helps scoot the boat around and with luck the boat stops with the bow into
the wind and within reach of the mooring.


Craig Jungers
Royal City, WA
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From: Matt Broze <mkayaks_at_oz.net>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Weatherhelming versus Weathercocking Usage
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2006 10:09:30 -0700
Concerning the cause of weathercocking

James wrote:
>The
> reason being that the bow is cleaving "still" water and, thus, wants to
> go straight whereas the stern is moving through perturbed water (the
> wake) and, therefore, is easily moved to the side.

and GaryJ wrote
>>>>>as a result of the fact that the bow
makes waves, and to turn the bow youhave to lift it over or through those
waves.
  The stern on the other hand is ell between the bow waves and can move back
and
forth more easily. <<<<<

The cause of weather helm is not the bow wave or the turbulence. These are
both rather side  effects (literally) of the cause. The cause is the
pressure difference between the front and back of a moving hull. A
stationary hull has equal pressure all around but move that hull in any
direction and the pressure will be greater on the part that is in the
direction of the movement (usually, but not necessarily, towards the bow).
Add a side wind to this moving hull and it will blow the part of the hull
where there is less pressure resisting the side wind further in a given time
than the part with the greater pressure. While both ends are moving downwind
the stern is moving faster downwind than the bow so one has the impression
that they are turning into the wind.

Craig wrote a long and nearly completely accurate description but I was
frustrated that he seemed to ignore the pressure difference aspect created
by a moving hull but rather treated the subject more from a static point of
view. To quote him:

>>>>>>The sum of all the wind forces acting on all the parts of the boat
that are
above the water is a point known as the "center of effort".
The sum of all the water forces acting on all the parts of the hull that are
below the water is known as the "center of lateral resistance".
On any boat, any time the center of effort is aft of the center of lateral
resistance that boat, left to its own devices, will rotate into the wind
(weathercock) and any time it's forward of the center of lateral resistance
the boat will rotate downwind (leecock).<<<<<<<

Absolutely true, but until you understand that it is very hard to create a
lee helm in a kayak because of the natural weather helm created by the
pressure differences you aren't getting a real understanding. The very fact
of moving the kayak forward moves the center of lateral resistance forward
as well. Moving the kayak backwards moves the center of lateral resistance
aft. While I agree with everything Craig says I think a couple of the things
may be misleading. For example Craig wrote:


>>>>>>>Take a look at your kayak from the side. Chances are that the cockpit
is
slightly aft of the middle of the boat. In this case your kayak will almost
certainly have a tendency to weathercock or turn into the wind. If moving
your seating position to maximum doesn't change the way your kayak handles
in wind then you have to make some adjustments.<<<<<<<<

>From the above true statement one is likely to draw exactly the wrong
conclusions (and I think Craig is misinterpreting the reasons for weather
helm--although his statement is still true because of the predominance of
weather helm). Since almost all kayaks have a tendency to weathercock the
statement is true but it is not due to the cockpit being further to the rear
than center as is implied here. If one moves the cockpit it will either
change the hull's trim or the shape of the hull design underwater will have
to be changed in order to keep the trim level. If you let the trim change by
just moving the paddler further back you will find that the kayak will
weather helm less (not more as is implied here). This is because water is a
lot denser than air. The change in the wind water couple from sinking the
stern deeper and raising the bow more out of the water (both moving the
center of lateral resistance aft and the kayak's center of windage forward)
will therefore do much more than compensate for the shift in the paddlers
windage aft. Note also that the paddler's windage is close to the balance
(or pivot) point so is not given much of a lever to act compared with the
bow and stern changes due to change in trim. In our (Mariner) kayaks with
instantly adjustable sliding seats one shifts the seat back to reduce a
weather helm and it is quite effective. If you compensate for a weight shift
(caused by moving the paddler to the rear) by making the kayak hull design
more Swede-form (finer bow and fuller stern) to maintain a level trim you
are also changing the areas of the moving hull that are under increased and
decreased pressure as well as changing the pressure itself. In so doing you
are also moving the balance point (center of lateral resistance) of that
moving hull. Even if the hull is static you are likely to find that the
windage from the paddler remains close to the neutral point because of the
changes you had to make to keep the hull floating level and their effect on
its center of lateral resistance.

Finally, I think leecocking is a misnomer but is an understandable one (and
I have no objections to its use). If weather cocking refers the rooster
shape of a traditional weathervane then maybe we should use "asscocking",
"cockbutting", or the more genteel "tailfeathering" to describe this
cockamamie behavior in a kayak ;-)

Matt Broze
www.marinerkayaks.com
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