I intend to buy an emergency strobe for my PFD but looking online I have found a number of different models saying they are visible from anywhere from 3-5 miles, have different colored lens, etc. I'm looking for feedback from listers to help me out. Tom The first and last victory is to conquer self [demime 1.01e removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of BackGrnd.jpg] [demime 1.01e removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of SOTRibbon1.gif] *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
[Please remove all old content that is not pertinent to your reply including old headers and footers. It's list policy.... this post was modified to meet policy] Tom Buckley <nbrunner_at_telus.net> wrote: > I intend to buy an emergency strobe for my PFD but looking online I have > found a number of different models saying they are visible from anywhere > from 3-5 miles, have different colored lens, etc. I'm looking for feedback > from listers to help me out. I have a Coglans strobe attached to my PFD. It has been attached there as an emergency beacon, though I've never had a sitation come up that would require its use. This unit is one of the more economy-priced options available. It comes with three lenses:clear, orange, and red. You can install whichever lense you prefer. I have found that this particular strobe seems to have a somewhat limited lifespan. This past season I noticed that the case of the strobe had some cracks in it. The cracks radiated from the lense down into the middle of the strobe. It is my guess that the cracks were caused by a combination of weathering and repeated impact during rescue/roll practise. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
I have an ancient ACR Firefly rescue strobe which has been to h*ll and back and still functions. Getting harder to find batteries for the old girl though. It's bright enough to tear the eyes out of your head. Glenn MacKay *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Someone had mentioned a custom flashlight. Here is a flashlight that could also be used to start fires in an emergency situation. It would also start fires in any situation. Keep it away from your Christmas tree. http://www.break.com/index/super_high_powered_flash_light.html Tom The first and last victory Is to conquer self *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
My experience with strobes in a real emergency has been limited (ok.. nonexistent) but in simulated emergencies with a person in the water strobes can be problematic; especially in a seaway where the swimmer disappears in the troughs and most especially as the rescuers get closer to the swimmer. The major problems are twofold: 1) Strobes are so bright that they create a lasting image which makes it difficult to see a swimmer or even to keep your eye on the place where the swimmer was last seen; and, 2) If the swimmer disappears from view in a wave-trough the strobe can be blinking away but unseen and when the swimmer is on the wave-peak the strobe can be not-blinking. These two can sync up and create a fairly long period during which you could lose track of the swimmer. Especially from a kayak cockpit. Some 25 years ago I was a member of an ad-hoc group of potential cruising yachties that was comprised of a group of mechanical engineers who never assumed anything. I learned a LOT from these folks. One summer we did a series of tests to determine whether a strobe (just coming onto market at that time) or a steady light was more effective in locating an overboard crewperson. The steady light - in those days just a single incandescent bulb in a single-D-cell water-tight casing - was much more effective for locating a swimmer. Especially as you drew closer. However, with a swimmer against a background of city lights a strobe might be preferable for locating the general area. Rescue professionals (of whom I am not one) now recommend a steady light. NRS has an LED light by Princeton for attaching to a PFD that is small and has settings for high, medium and low brightness plus settings for fast and slow blink for $14.95: (http://www.nrsweb.com/shop/product.asp?pfid=2775&src=froogle&refer=2775) Craig Jungers Royal City, WA On 12/15/06, Tom Buckley <nbrunner_at_telus.net> wrote: > > I intend to buy an emergency strobe for my PFD but looking online I have > found a number of different models saying they are visible from anywhere > from 3-5 miles, have different colored lens, etc. I'm looking for feedback > from listers to help me out. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Craig Jungers wrote: > Rescue professionals (of whom I am not one) now recommend a steady light. > NRS has an LED light by Princeton for attaching to a PFD that is small and > has settings for high, medium and low brightness plus settings for fast and > slow blink for $14.95: > > (http://www.nrsweb.com/shop/product.asp?pfid=2775&src=froogle&refer=2775) Same beans from the local USCG rescue folks (Cape Disappointment Motor Lifeboat School) on the preference for a steady light. In addition, another data point: Bar pilot took an unplanned swim off the Columbia River one dark night some 10-12 years ago, equipped with strobe (it failed very quickly), and wearing a heavy float coat covered in SOLAS reflective tape. Mike spent a lonely hour and a half swimming and waving at the USCG helo running transits overhead. The helo knew pretty much where he had to be because the spot where he went overboard was known, and the longshore current direction and speed were well known. They never saw the strobe, and they never picked up the reflection from the SOLAS tape. What caught their eye was the _splashing_ he did whenever the midnight sun searchlight was pointed his way. In a white-capped sea, the difference between what his hands did and the wave pattern caught someone's eye. Mike still drives freighters across the Bar, but has since upgraded his kit. Sadly, a neophyte Bar pilot was lost a year ago in a similar incident, when he failed to deploy his strobe -- it was switched off when they recovered his body some 3 days later, on the beach. Head injuries to the neophyte suggested he may have been semiconscious or unconscious from a bump on the noggin as he fell in. As far as lights go, anyone planning serious nighttime paddling might want to look into Princeton Tec's APEX unit, which sports a concentrated 3W beam (rated to reach out some 56 meters with a usable spotlight; 72 hours of use predicted), and an array of four different LEDS which produce a broad beam, separately switched, and of lower output, but rated to last 100-150 hours on alkalines. Not cheap, and not lightweight, either, partly because it uses a 4-AA-cell pack at the back of the head. It is submersible, and designed for on-the-water use. After struggling with innumerable generations of lightweight headlamps, the last two of them LED variants, I decided to spring for an APEX. Can't wait to try it out. -- Dave Kruger Astoria, OR *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Dave Kruger wrote: > > As far as lights go, anyone planning serious nighttime paddling might want > to look into Princeton Tec's APEX unit, which sports a concentrated 3W > beam > (rated to reach out some 56 meters with a usable spotlight; 72 hours of > use > predicted), and an array of four different LEDS which produce a broad > beam, > separately switched, and of lower output, but rated to last 100-150 hours > on alkalines. Not cheap, and not lightweight, either, partly because it > uses a 4-AA-cell pack at the back of the head. It is submersible, and > designed for on-the-water use. After struggling with innumerable > generations of lightweight headlamps, the last two of them LED variants, I have an Apex but have not had it on the water yet. Has worked fine during rainy hikes down mountains and as a general utility light. I don't think I get anywhere near 72 hours with the 3W LED though. Seems to be very water proof. -mike S shore Lake Superior *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
> As far as lights go, anyone planning serious nighttime paddling might want > to look into Princeton Tec's APEX unit, which sports a concentrated 3W beam > (rated to reach out some 56 meters with a usable spotlight; 72 hours of use > predicted), and an array of four different LEDS which produce a broad beam, > separately switched, and of lower output, but rated to last 100-150 hours > on alkalines. Not cheap, and not lightweight, either, partly because it > uses a 4-AA-cell pack at the back of the head. 3 watts is a lot, definitely better than those "beans" ( I have 1-watt LED, and it is not too bright for night paddling), but this Apex is directional. Could be good for paddling, i.e. to help the paddler seeing something, but I wonder whether some sort of 360 degree steady beacon would be better when a paddler (or swimmer, whatever) has to be seen. Princeton has just 2 such beacons, one with incadescent bulb and only 8 hours of batery life, and another one - with red LED (I don't know why it had to be red). *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
> uses a 4-AA-cell pack at the back of the head. It [APEX] is submersible, and > designed for on-the-water use. After struggling with innumerable > generations of lightweight headlamps, the last two of them LED variants, I > decided to spring for an APEX. Important thing about those headlamps and beacons - this Apex is IPX7 waterproof, i.e. 1 meter submersion for 30 minutes. This is THE minimum requirement for somebody who wants to be sure that it will work when he really needs it, - i.e. in water. The previously mentioned Princeton Tec Impulse is IPX4 waterproof (for splashing and quick dunking only), same as many-many other lights even by such a reputable brand as Princeton. There is also IPX7 Princeton Tec EOS headlamp - 1 watt, less bright and even more directional than Apex (no side lights), but more convenient in handling, as it has batteries inside the casing in front (so it is probably lighter as well). I've took a second glance at those Princeton beacons, btw - they are IPX8 rated, i.e. more waterproof than Apex and Eos. The problem is, they have short battery life in steady mode - one is 8 hrs cripton bulb, less shock-resistant amd generally shorter bulb lifespan than LED, and another one has long-lasting red flashing LED in addition to very bright, but only 2-hr halogen bulb. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
In a message dated 12/17/2006 11:05:49 AM Pacific Standard Time, kdruger_at_pacifier.com writes: As far as lights go, anyone planning serious nighttime paddling might want to look into Princeton Tec's APEX unit, which sports a concentrated 3W beam (rated to reach out some 56 meters with a usable spotlight; 72 hours of use predicted), and an array of four different LEDS which produce a broad beam, separately switched, and of lower output, but rated to last 100-150 hours on alkalines. Not cheap, and not lightweight, either, partly because it uses a 4-AA-cell pack at the back of the head. It is submersible, and designed for on-the-water use. After struggling with innumerable generations of lightweight headlamps, the last two of them LED variants, I decided to spring for an APEX. Can't wait to try it out. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> The large headlamps with the separate battery compartment (often at the back of the head) do not it under my helmet. I use the Princeton Tech Eos because it does not have the big battery pack and my helmet fits right over it. It is bright, but I don't need that much light to read a chart, the less the better. The only time I need distance is when I need to scout a landing or warn a vessel and the Eos has been adequate thus far. The button is large and simple to operate with gloves on. On the subject of to strobe or not to strobe, A water proof flashlight can do the trick. The LED versions are smaller, powerful and often fit in a PFD pocket. I also have a Greatland Laser that has been in my PFD pocket for nearly 3 years. It is awesome at night as the light columnates. Cheers, Rob G *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Rcgibbert_at_aol.com wrote: > The large headlamps [...] > A water proof flashlight [...] > a Greatland Laser [...] > It is awesome at night as the light columnates. I think that something is getting lost here. Do you want to be seen from any angle or do you want a light to attract attention from a specific target? A strobe or non-flashing light should have a very wide spread of light if it is to be seen from anywhere. A highly directional light source is better (at night) if you want to signal, say, a boat or helicopter. I don't know of too many products that can do both well. For general night lights, a flashlight meets the legal requirements in the US and Canada, while a light with broader horizontal distribution (like a C-light) is better. For a light permanently attached to the shoulder tab of your PFD, you'll want a very bright light that can be seen in any direction - strobes work, but a non-flashing source may be better. For signaling, a pointer type of light is required and the laser mentioned above is highly rated (if it's the one I remember hearing about earlier). You might need all three! Mike PS - my headlamp is rated to 300m - why are the newer ones a wimpy IPX7 or 8? *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
I own and keep a Greatland Laser Flare tethered in my PFD, as well as a PFD mounted strobe, an LED flashlight that is waterproof and easy to operate with cold hands or while wearing gloves. I keep an LED Petzl Tikka Plus headlamp available. If I were also in situations at night where I needed to light up an approach to scout it in the dark....I'd also carry a higher power (thought shorter battery life) light like those made by SureFire. The Petzl head lamp has a 'burst' mode, and the SureFire lights also have red filters that can snap down to preserve night vision while reading charts, etc. SureFire (as I'm sure others of this type do as well) offers a highly water resistant 'spare battery and reflector/bulb unit' carrier that can also be tethered and kept in your PFD or your Bailout Pack. The light I have takes two lithium batts and the spares-pod holds six batts and a reflector/bulb unit. The Greatland Laser Flare gets mixed reviews in field testing, and some argue that green lasers (admittedly, very powerful ones) might be more easily spotted....used by star gazers to point out and guide other viewers. The Greatland Laser works well, but you have to practice with targeting...you have to sight well with both hands and sweep very slowly for it to be seen at any distance. That might work great once you're out of the water and steady on your feet...but getting tumbled in swell, hands cold, et al. I think the application of the Greatland Laser might be less effective. On Dec 19, 2006, at 11:54 PM, Michael Daly wrote: > Rcgibbert_at_aol.com wrote: > >> The large headlamps > [...] > > A water proof flashlight > [...] >> a Greatland Laser > [...] >> It is awesome at night as the light columnates. > > I think that something is getting lost here. Do you want to be > seen from any angle or do you want a light to attract attention > from a specific target? A strobe or non-flashing light should have > a very wide spread of light if it is to be seen from anywhere. A > highly directional light source is better (at night) if you want to > signal, say, a boat or helicopter. I don't know of too many > products that can do both well. > > For general night lights, a flashlight meets the legal requirements > in the US and Canada, while a light with broader horizontal > distribution (like a C-light) is better. For a light permanently > attached to the shoulder tab of your PFD, you'll want a very bright > light that can be seen in any direction - strobes work, but a non- > flashing source may be better. For signaling, a pointer type of > light is required and the laser mentioned above is highly rated (if > it's the one I remember hearing about earlier). You might need all > three! > > Mike *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
> For general night lights, a flashlight meets the legal requirements in the US > and Canada, while a light with broader horizontal distribution (like a C-light) > is better. For a light permanently attached to the shoulder tab of your PFD, > you'll want a very bright light that can be seen in any direction - strobes > work, but a non-flashing source may be better. For signaling, a pointer type of > light is required and the laser mentioned above is highly rated (if it's the one > I remember hearing about earlier). You might need all three! C-light is using a Fresnel lense, that emits 360 degrees horizontally, yet in a quite narrow vertical segment. This is good for something more-less stabile, with C-stick more-less vertical, like on the kayak after-deck or mast, or on Tilley bucket hat (I tried this too, with elastic loop sewn at the back of the hat). It can hardly be seen from higher angle (ex. helicopter) when in its normal vertical position on the deck, or from rescue boats if C-stick is not vertical (ex. swimming in PFD). Besides, it has an ordinary incandescent bulb, not too reliable and with just a few hours of battery life. But is is small, light and waterproof. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
The C-light, as Alex points out, radiates in a thin sector, maybe 10-15 degrees in the vertical direction, in a 360 degree arc around the paddler's head. We tested one of these at night, paddler to paddler, and found that the light "strobed" irregularly because of the kayak's bobbing and changes in posture of the paddler if worn on the head. And, it was dim. Yet, if the paddler were wearing a strobe, it would blink on its own, and suffer the effects of bobbing and posture changes, also, further reducing the window in which it is visible to a surface-based searcher. But, it is bright. I suspect a stronger version of the C-light might be the best compromise for a rescue signal, until a search vessel or aircraft is near. Thennnn, and only thennnn, those flares we all carry will be useful. My personal favorite among these choices is my VHF. -- Dave Kruger Astoria, OR *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Dave Kruger wrote: > The C-light, as Alex points out, radiates in a thin sector, maybe 10-15 > degrees in the vertical direction, in a 360 degree arc around the > paddler's head. It also shines a beam straight up IIRC. > I suspect a stronger version of the C-light might be the best compromise > for a rescue signal, until a search vessel or aircraft is near. An upgrade of the venerable C-Light to use low power LEDs and be _much_ brighter is definitely in order. Someone asked offline about the Arc Firefly - a strobe and, in one model, also a flashlight. I've looked at this one and Like the idea but have no experience with it. I've also seen another product that looks interesting but for the price: <http://www.tiny.cc/MEC836>. With LEDs, long battery life, strobe and SOS functions, it might be worth a consideration. No experience. One thing I do with my strobe is use lithium AA batteries, not alkaline. This to improve low temperature performance and shelf life. Mike *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
In a message dated 12/19/2006 9:59:24 PM Pacific Standard Time, mikedaly_at_magma.ca writes: I think that something is getting lost here. Do you want to be seen from any angle or do you want a light to attract attention from a specific target? A strobe or non-flashing light should have a very wide spread of light if it is to be seen from anywhere. A highly directional light source is better (at night) if you want to signal, say, a boat or helicopter. I don't know of too many products that can do both well. For general night lights, a flashlight meets the legal requirements in the US and Canada, while a light with broader horizontal distribution (like a C-light) is better. For a light permanently attached to the shoulder tab of your PFD, you'll want a very bright light that can be seen in any direction - strobes work, but a non-flashing source may be better. For signaling, a pointer type of light is required and the laser mentioned above is highly rated (if it's the one I remember hearing about earlier). You might need all three! Mike PS - my headlamp is rated to 300m - why are the newer ones a wimpy IPX7 or 8? I use the strobe on the shoulder patch, forr all around visibility also. I am aware of the possibility of a dark synchronicity with wave patterns, which is why I prefer to add incandescent or LED to the mix. My rationale for the laser by Greatland is simple: It fits in my pocket and is more reliable than skyblazers. I am back to sealed pencil flares for my on body flare system, but they require some fiddlyness to deploy, the laser is not fiddly. The laser also gives me some means to signal an emergency whereas I took a plane to my destination. I'm not impressed with the headlamp waterproofing. I consider the x7 rating a joke and the x8 rating adequate for the application. Really, better suited to backpacking than kayaking, but for the amount I actually night paddle, and the amount it is actually on, the Eos has worked out pretty well. It's winter and that means more night paddling. Rob G *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
In a message dated 12/20/2006 1:58:38 PM Pacific Standard Time, mikedaly_at_magma.ca writes: Someone asked offline about the Arc Firefly - a strobe and, in one model, also a flashlight. I've looked at this one and Like the idea but have no experience with it. I've also seen another product that looks interesting but for the price: <http://www.tiny.cc/MEC836>. With LEDs, long battery life, strobe and SOS functions, it might be worth a consideration. No experience. One thing I do with my strobe is use lithium AA batteries, not alkaline. This to improve low temperature performance and shelf life. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Good info on the lithium, Mike. I'd not thought of that. I have no exp with the Arc's either. Just the Princeton Tech, wherein I've replaced 2 in the last 5 years from hydration issues. Just be sure to test it out regularly as when they go, you won't notice it until you turn it around. Cheers, Rob G *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Rcgibbert_at_aol.com wrote: > Just the Princeton Tech, wherein I've replaced 2 in the last > 5 years from hydration issues. Just be sure to test it out regularly as when > they go, you won't notice it until you turn it around. I have a couple of PT lights (older headlamp model with LED conversion, 4AA flashlight). I've not had problems with leaking and the flashlight has accompanied me on scuba dives to ~60ft on a wreck dive. Make sure they are not too loose - the top should be screwed in as much as possible without turning it on. A bit of silicone grease on the O ring is not a bad idea. When I first used the flashlight on a dive, we were going into some pretty murky water. Visibility was quite poor and we were having problems seeing around on our way to a wreck (Georgian Bay, Lake Huron). I had screwed the flashlight top down to where it was _barely_ off - once we got to about 30ft depth, the pressure from the water pressed the top down enough to turn on the flashlight in my mesh BC pocket. As a result, there was a bright light shining back behind me. After the dive, the other divers thanked me for providing a light for them to follow! :-) Mike *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Thank you for the link to MEC i followed it on to the manufacture site: http://intelightsport.com/ew.asp good and interesting information... check out the Intelight Visibility Tests which also compares the IS to the ARC firefly... i appreciate the Lithium suggestion. john Sta Rosa, CA Rcgibbert_at_aol.com wrote: In a message dated 12/20/2006 1:58:38 PM Pacific Standard Time, mikedaly_at_magma.ca writes: Someone asked offline about the Arc Firefly - a strobe and, in one model, also a flashlight. I've looked at this one and Like the idea but have no experience with it. I've also seen another product that looks interesting but for the price: . With LEDs, long battery life, strobe and SOS functions, it might be worth a consideration. No experience. One thing I do with my strobe is use lithium AA batteries, not alkaline. This to improve low temperature performance and shelf life. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Good info on the lithium, Mike. I'd not thought of that. I have no exp with the Arc's either. Just the Princeton Tech, wherein I've replaced 2 in the last 5 years from hydration issues. Just be sure to test it out regularly as when they go, you won't notice it until you turn it around. Cheers, Rob G *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
> Thank you for the link to MEC i followed it on to the manufacture site: http://intelightsport.com/ew.asp > good and interesting information... check out the Intelight Visibility Tests which also compares the IS to the ARC firefly... Good thing Intelight is LED. But it has one wrong feature - water activated switch. In a kayak, you often get a lot of water all over your PFD even before going overboard. It is also not clear how long is the battery life in steady diffused light (flood and low flood), which is prefered option for swimmer in waves, as it's been established - but I am sure it's longer than those with crypton bulbs. Prices in MEC are normally higher than in the US-based online stores (not to mention horrible canadian sales tax for local customers - but this is another story). *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Upon reading FAQ at Intelisport page: water activated switch can be deactivated while it's still in water - but from their descriptions I can't tell whether it can be deactivated at all before being placed in water, and then activated manually when needed, like a normal light. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
My understanding is that the light has an 'emergency/stand-by' setting (the others being: SOS, Strobe, Flashlight) that engages the water-activation mode....so you could turn it off or on at any time. On Dec 22, 2006, at 4:39 PM, alex wrote: > Upon reading FAQ at Intelisport page: water activated switch can be > deactivated while it's still in water - but from their descriptions > I can't > tell whether it can be deactivated at all before being placed in > water, and > then activated manually when needed, like a normal light. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Ah, but what does the magnetic base do to your compass? There's no switching that off! Chuck Holst > My understanding is that the light has an 'emergency/stand-by' > setting (the others being: SOS, Strobe, Flashlight) > that engages the water-activation mode....so you could turn it off or > on at any time. > > On Dec 22, 2006, at 4:39 PM, alex wrote: > >> Upon reading FAQ at Intelisport page: water activated switch can be >> deactivated while it's still in water - but from their descriptions >> I can't >> tell whether it can be deactivated at all before being placed in >> water, and >> then activated manually when needed, like a normal light. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
> Ah, but what does the magnetic base do to your compass? There's no > switching that off! > > Chuck Holst > > > My understanding is that the light has an 'emergency/stand-by' > > setting (the others being: SOS, Strobe, Flashlight) > > that engages the water-activation mode....so you could turn it off or > > on at any time. And what is the most annoying, is that this magnetic base is absolutely unnecessary. Correct me if I'm wrong, - but its purpose is to ensure that the flashlight floats upright (apparently when dangling loose on some lanyard, rather than strapped to the PFD). May be magnetic plate can be removed? *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Many of these 360 degreee lights have a rubber suction cup to attach to the kayak deck. The one I have has a small magnet in the base of the suction cup to hold the light in. Ralph Heimlich alex wrote: >>Ah, but what does the magnetic base do to your compass? There's no >>switching that off! *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Re: magnetic base: It is, of course, to attach it to some metal surface, and has nothing to do with it floating uprigth. Some other weights must have ensured its upright position in water. Don't even know what I was thinking in the previous message :-) ... I swear, didn't have any eggnogs yet. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Last year we had a bit of talk about sails on kayaks. I'd mentioned I have both the Pacific Action and Spirit Sail V-sails on my boat, and use either or both according to conditions. For those interested, here's a link to paddler's-eye view of what it looks like with both sails set, on a broad reach on the starboard tack. (Wind coming over my right shoulder, for you land lubbers:-) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvGkyeVS2Hw One of my winter projects is a straight mast that will fit in the Spirit Sails deck fixture, allowing me to hang the Spirit Sail on its side, like a lateen sail. I'll be interested to see if this gives me better across the wind performance and possibly even some upwind capability. Philip ________________________________________________________________________ Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Yup, I've had some scary moments with the Spirit Sail with the top falling over the side and scooping water while being taken down. Possible solutions below. Here are the strengths and weaknesses of the two systems as I see them (I've use them together and seperately for years.) Spirit Sail Easy to install (including a non-permanent suction cup fixture for borrowed/rental boats if you want.) Two sail sizes which can be changed at sea for "reefing." (Action Pacific makes different sizes, but they can't be changed at sea.) Once folded, very compact, can be stowed in your cockpit if desired. No windage or water collecting on your deck, sail not exposed to UV when not in use. In theory, since it's more amidships than the Pacific Action, it should allow you to sail further off the wind. In practise, I find that since the angle of the Pacific Action can be infinetly tuned, whereas the Spirit has only a few pre-defined angles, they're about the same. As noted, getting the sail down can be hairy. I've made two after-market mods to mine. Do so at your own risk - they may void your warrenty. 1. I drilled a hole through the center of the V bracket (where the logo is), and ran a line through this to secure it to the boat, preventing losing it overboard. (It's nearly happend to me, and has happened to someone I know.) If you do this, have a knife on your PFD for cutting the line away in case you dropped the complete sail assembly into the water and were being tangled or pulled over by it. 2. I wrapped some masking tape about an inch from the top of one arm of the V bracket to prevent splitting while I cut, hacksawed it off, rounded the top edge with a file, then removed the tape. This slightly shorter arm makes it much easier, faster, and therefore safer, to pop the battens off during take-down and hasn't effected the battens or support that I've detected. You could do both arms. I've just done one, and always put it on the same (port) side so I know to lift that batten off first. Pacific Action Goes up and comes down in seconds, letting you push the envelope of wind speeds and conditions more, because you can depower and stow much faster. Size not changable at sea. Wraps loosely on foredeck. Creates windage, collects water in waves, is exposed to UV at all times. If I was forced to choose between Spirit and Pacific Action for my single, I'd choose the Pacific Action. (For my double, I would, and have chosen the Spirit Sails. I've got a mounting bracket in front of each cockpit, so we put up small or large sails where needed for the wind and the angle off the wind we want.) Fortunately, I'm not forced to choose, and using both sails on my single gives me the best of both worlds and tremendous versatility. On your typical Pacific Northwest summer day, wind begins to pick up late morning / early afternoon. I put up the full size Spirit Sail and the Pacific Action sail as soon as the breeze starts. They work best together on a beam reach (wind coming roughly over one shoulder). This way one doesn't block the wind to the other, plus there's the additional force of the "slot effect" as the air is squeezed between them. As the wind gets stronger, I may reduce the Spirit Sail from the full size to the mid size. And as it reaches full force in the late afternoon, I'll sail under the Pacific Action alone, 'cos it can come down in seconds. BTY, it's actually easier to take down the Spirit Sail when you have the Pacific Action up. Instead of going from fully powered to fully depowered, you go from full speed to roughly "engines half ahead." So you're not struggling against the same apparent wind to release the V-bracket. Plus once you've dropped the Spirit Sail, you still have forward speed, and therefore steerage way with the rudder - you can keep the boat from broaching while you're packing up the Spirit Sail. One other thing I've done is put ribbon tell-tells on the front and back surfaces of all my sails. This helps trim them so you're getting "pull" as well as "push" from the wind. I've also put tell-tales on the lines of the Pacific Action sail so I can see the angle of the apparent wind. Sorry if this is an over-long reply. You know how we old sailors yammer on once you get us started.... Philip -----Original Message----- From: mhj_at_smus.ca To: kayakwriter_at_aim.com Sent: Fri, 22 Dec 2006 8:22 AM Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] kayak sailing video Hi Philip, I'd be interested in your comparisons of the two sail systems. I have a sprit sail which I use occasionally. This summer I used it on part of our Vancouver Island west coast trip. I did find it was tricky to put up/take down in a choppy sea with a stiff wind... ________________________________________________________________________ Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
>Fortunately, I'm not forced to choose, and using both sails on my single gives me the best of both worlds and tremendous versatility. > On your typical Pacific Northwest summer day, wind begins to pick up late morning / early afternoon. I put up the full size Spirit Sail and the Pacific Action sail as soon as the breeze starts. They work best together on a beam reach (wind coming roughly over one shoulder). Besides broaching waves, there is one more problem with beam reach - without a leeboard the drifting to the lee will be about the same as forward progress, so eventually sailing at beam reach will be the same as, say, sailing 135 degrees off the wind (only slower and with more thrill ;-). One minor thing that I don't like about PA is that its brackets screwed to the hull tend to rotate around that single screw - few degrees back and forth. And when they rotate, they leak, no matter what. They should've made them half-inch wider, to use with 2 screws each, - then it would stay put and with some sealant or epoxy wouldn't leak. Yes, PA is somewhat loose when furled on the deck. It doesn't unfurl completely by itself, but few inches of loose piece of fabric flapping around on the deck is annoying. Not dangerous, and probably doesn't even create a lot of windage, but distracting. This can be reduced if you take care to wrap fabric tight around the spars before shoving it under the retaining loop (difficult thing to do in choppy seas, though). May be it needs another loop, few inches further down along the spars. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
I've made myself a "tossed leeboard" - basically an oak board with a disc of lead cast in a hole drilled near the bottom end. It hangs by lines from the top end off a fixture on the downwind side of my boat, just forward of my cockpit. The lead holds it vertical in the water; the water pressure holds it in place. Seems to give me about 10-15 degrees more off the wind on either side. Ideally it would be positioned more forward, about half way between the two sails, at the centre of effort, but my arms aren't that long:-) I've ordered a larger blade for my rudder system - I'm curious to see if that will provide more resistance to the kayak's tendency to pivot downwind around the leeboard, and let me sail even further offwind. The brackets on my PA set up don't pivot when I raise and lower my sail - I haven't experienced any leakage in several years of use. In my set-up the straps run straight up to the sail knees on deck. The straps are quite aggressively tightened - I've reinforced the deck beneath them with an extra layer of fibreglass. The furling wrap for my PA sail came off shortly after I installed it. I improvised by simply wrapping the lines around the furled sail, then pulling them under a bollard on my deck. It worked even better than the line, and left one less thing to clutter my deck, so I've never bothered to replace it. ---- Original Message ---- From: al.m_at_3web.net >Fortunately, I'm not forced to choose, and using both sails on my single gives me the best of both worlds and tremendous versatility. > On your typical Pacific Northwest summer day, wind begins to pick up late morning / early afternoon. I put up the full size Spirit Sail and the Pacific Action sail as soon as the breeze starts. They work best together on a beam reach (wind coming roughly over one shoulder). Besides broaching waves, there is one more problem with beam reach - without a leeboard the drifting to the lee will be about the same as forward progress, so eventually sailing at beam reach will be the same as, say, sailing 135 degrees off the wind (only slower and with more thrill ;-). One minor thing that I don't like about PA is that its brackets screwed to the hull tend to rotate around that single screw - few degrees back and forth. And when they rotate, they leak, no matter what. They should've made them half-inch wider, to use with 2 screws each, - then it would stay put and with some sealant or epoxy wouldn't leak. Yes, PA is somewhat loose when furled on the deck. It doesn't unfurl completely by itself, but few inches of loose piece of fabric flapping around on the deck is annoying. Not dangerous, and probably doesn't even create a lot of windage, but distracting. This can be reduced if you take care to wrap fabric tight around the spars before shoving it under the retaining loop (difficult thing to do in choppy seas, though). May be it needs another loop, few inches further down along the spars. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
>I've ordered a larger blade for my rudder system - I'm curious to see if that will provide more resistance to the kayak's tendency to pivot downwind around the leeboard, and let me sail even further offwind. It's ungratifying task to try to be a prophet, - but with larger rudder I would expect better ppointing into the wind, but not much better resistance to the lee drifting. The size isn't everything - rudder is too far aft to compensate adequately for what the keel or leeboard is supposed to do. But everythng helps a little bit. www.watertribe.com folks have come up with a good sailing rudder for a kayak - vertical, balanced, of proper size, and hydrofoil shape (among commercial blades only Feathercraft has it hydrofoiled). And they at Watertribe sell it for a reasonable price. >The furling wrap for my PA sail came off shortly after I installed it. I improvised by simply wrapping the lines around the furled sail, then pulling them under a bollard on my deck. It worked even better than the line I don't bother with wrapping the lines around the furled sail - there is not enough spare length of the line to wrap it securely. I furl the sail as tight as possible (wraping it around the spars as many times as possible), and shove it under the bungey loop near the cokpit, about 3" from the top end of tthe wrap. May be I should add one loop one foot further (with webbing and fast-release bucke, to open and close it). Bollard - is it something like a horn cleat? *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
I haven't tried sailing yet in my kayak, but maybe some day, but it doesn't seem like it would be too hard to come up with some kind of lee board for you sailors! It could double as a skeg for regular kayaking! My dos centavos. Mark Sanders www.sandmarks.net -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] kayak sailing video >I've ordered a larger blade for my rudder system - I'm curious to see if that will provide more resistance to the kayak's tendency to pivot downwind around the leeboard, and let me sail even further offwind. It's ungratifying task to try to be a prophet, - but with larger rudder I would expect better ppointing into the wind, but not much better resistance to the lee drifting. The size isn't everything - rudder is too far aft to *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
---- Original Message ---- From: al.m_at_3web.net >Bollard - is it something like a horn cleat? Exactly like a horn cleat. Another name for the same thing. BTY, just noticed Scotty's going to be bringing out kayak stabilizers. Hmmmm.....betcha could put up a lotta sail... http://www.scottypaddlesports.com/pages/stabilizer.html Philip________________________________________________________________________ Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail at http://www.aol.ca/aim/aimmail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
kayakwriter_at_aim.com wrote: > ---- Original Message ---- > From: al.m_at_3web.net > >> Bollard - is it something like a horn cleat? > > Exactly like a horn cleat. Another name for the same thing. Just to pick nits (one of my specialties :-) - a bollard is very different from a horn cleat. They come in single and double post arrangements. http://www.schoellhorn-albrecht.com/dock-bitts-bollards.html Mike PS - sorry for any double posts just prior to Christmas - it seems that my ISP is kicking the returns from Paddlewise with my name on them as if they were spam :-(. I didn't see them and I reposted. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Right you are Mike. Don't feel bad about picking nits. I'm fussy about using terms correctly too (the difference between knots and nautical miles, fer instance.) Appropriate I should be hoist on my own petard. Or bollard:-) -----Original Message----- From: mikedaly_at_magma.ca Just to pick nits (one of my specialties :-) - a bollard is very different from a horn cleat. They come in single and double post arrangements. http://www.schoellhorn-albrecht.com/dock-bitts-bollards.html Mike ________________________________________________________________________ Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam and email virus protection. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
>BTY, just noticed Scotty's going to be bringing out kayak stabilizers. Hmmmm.....betcha could put up a lotta sail...http://www.scottypaddlesports.com/pages/stabilizer.html Okay, this is where many would note that with such a contraption this it is no longer a kayaking. I tried upwind sail rigs with outriggers and 32 sf sail, and came to conclusion that for local South BC waters some small downwind sail is the best option, and gives maximum freedom of movement. Outrigger slows you down significantly, even when you have enough room for paddle strokes (the guy on the photo doesn't). Dismantling a proper upwind outrigger, sail and mast on the water isn't easy, not to mention stowing it on the deck.There are some people out there that like sailing their canoes with outriggers, but kayak isn't a canoe, and paddling with that stuff becomes compromised, and I like to paddle as well. About this outrigger by Scotty - I think, they meant it to be a stabilizer for fishing, snorkeling etc, - not really for sailing. The crossbar appears to be made of 2 separate pieces without a middle section. This is less reliable then with a single crossbar fixed both at the boards and in the middle. The sponsons are suspended from the crossbar on the webbing, and probably sway laterally and vertically, not to mention that they should have more hydrodynamic shape and proper angle of attack, pointing few degrees up, and just slightly "kiss" the water when the boat is not leaning (on the photo they look like pressed into the water, which would be a terrible thing both to paddle and sail). The length from each board to the sponson should be about 4 ft, to provide enough balance for a 30 sf sail or larger (and with smaller sail upwind sailing doesn't make much sense). *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
> > The C-light, as Alex points out, radiates in a thin sector, maybe 10-15 > > degrees in the vertical direction, in a 360 degree arc around the > > paddler's head. > > It also shines a beam straight up IIRC. Yes, and again very directional - no light at all beyond a narrow vertical angle. > our way to a wreck (Georgian Bay, Lake Huron). I had screwed the flashlight top > down to where it was _barely_ off - once we got to about 30ft depth, the > pressure from the water pressed the top down enough to turn on the flashlight in > my mesh BC pocket. As a result, there was a bright light shining back behind > me. After the dive, the other divers thanked me for providing a light for them > to follow! :-) I like this one :-) .... On Princeton Tec website, btw, there is a waterproof rating icon (with water or raindrops) under each item, click and it shows what class it is, x7 or x8: http://www.princetontec.com/products/index.php?use=2 . I didn't notice any headlamps better than x7, but there are those x8 directional flashlights (i.e. not a personal beacon), and only two 360*180 degree beacons - one is an 8-hrs strobe with incandescent bulb and proper brackets on the casing to attach it to PFD, and another one - a steady beacon with 2-hrs incandescent bulb plus a 500-hrs red LED strobe. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
alex wrote: > On Princeton Tec website, btw, there is a > waterproof rating icon (with water or raindrops) under each item, click and > it shows what class it is, x7 or x8: I forgot that the x8 standard is for time, not depth, though many electronic devices specify only 1.5m. Some IPX8 lights from PT are 100m rated. My mistake. > I didn't notice any > headlamps better than x7, but there are those x8 directional flashlights My headlamp is no longer available but was a 2AA version of the Vortec and was rated for very deep use. My flashlight is an older version of the Tec 40. PT used to rate some of their flashlights to 1000' or 2000', but I think they've started using more conservative ratings after a lot of divers complained that they experienced failures well before 1000' - like 100' (there's only one hard suit that can dive to 2000' AFAIK). > an 8-hrs strobe with incandescent bulb and proper brackets on the casing to > attach it to PFD, and another one - a steady beacon with 2-hrs incandescent > bulb plus a 500-hrs red LED strobe. I have used that strobe for years and it's tough enough for the abuse I subject it to. It's a shame it's so expensive. I'd also prefer that it could take 2AA instead of 1 and get longer life. Mike *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Hi Folks, With LED's having a massive advantage in operating times and durability, is there anyone in Paddlewise-land who would know how to adapt an Underwater Kinetics Mini Q-40 to use LED's? Is it as simple as making one fit, and if that is the case, why do some LED units have a small circuit board? Warning, my electronic knowledge is such that I have to check twice that I have put the batteries in the correct way! I have carried the UK Q-40 for years in my buoyancy vest (PFD) in addition to a strobe, but from reading the list discussion on strobes versus fixed lights it may be time to improve efficiency. Thinking of the practical use of a marker light, in Feb this year a Navy diver, Robert Hewitt, spent 75 hours drifting in the sea off the North Island (NZ) after a recreational dive, when he surfaced away from his dive boat. Like many such incidents, it happened towards the end of the day, and the resultant search was soon effected by nightfall. His amazing survival story is a tribute to his training, fitness, mental toughness and his wetsuit. Not to take anything away from Robert or his colleagues but the one thing that doesn't seem to have been addressed is that any of the signal devices that we discuss here would have had him out of the water that first evening, enjoying a beer while telling a good yarn. Cheers JKA -- John Kirk-Anderson Banks Peninsula NEW ZEALAND *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
John Kirk-Anderson wrote: > With LED's having a massive advantage in operating times and durability, is > there anyone in Paddlewise-land who would know how to adapt an Underwater > Kinetics Mini Q-40 to use LED's? Is it as simple as making one fit, and if > that is the case, why do some LED units have a small circuit board? Warning, > my electronic knowledge is such that I have to check twice that I have put > the batteries in the correct way! Long before you could buy an LED conversion kit for a Maglite, I looked at making one. I'm sure there are details I've missed, but: LED's operate at a range of voltages, but most require over 3V - especially the very bright "white" LEDs. Since a 2AA device only puts out 2.4V (on rechargeable batteries), you need a step-up circuit to generate 3V or so. The conversion kit for my PT headlamp has this. The result is a loss of power in the circuit so the life of the batteries is a little less than what a 3AA or 3AAA could manage, all other things being equal. If you want to use such a circuit, you can either modify an existing conversion kit or use the web to find instructions to build one - e.g.: <http://www.resurgentsoftware.com/perfect_led_light.html>. There are also step-down circuits to allow a 4AA flashlight to run a 3.xV LED. If you have a 3.6V source (lithium cell, 3AA or 3AAA = 3.6V, nominally) you could directly power a 3.6V LED. Some makers will add a circuit to limit the power to the LED to conserve battery power - for example, by flashing the LED at a rate that is fast enough to not be observed by a person. These also allow multiple brightness levels as an option. A resistor can be used to drop the voltage from 3.6 to whatever the LED requires. You can get the specs for various LEDs from the web. The flashlight you're interested in is 4AA = 4.8V rechargeable or 6V alkaline. You could remove one battery and replace it with a homemade plug (spacer) that has caps and a wire to conduct the electricity and then have a 3AA power source. Another option is to use 3N alkaline batteries (4.5V) on one side and a plug on the other (3N is almost as long as 2AA in series - you'll need a short spacer). Or you can change the flashlight (this is getting drastic) to run two sets of 3N in parallel rather than series - this will still give 4.5V with twice the life of one set of 3N. At this point, you need to use a resistor to limit the voltage - you can put it in the plug/spacer. 15 ohm for alkaline or about 10 ohm for rechargeable. There are lots of web sites for doing these conversions. Here's a good one: <http://www.otherpower.com/otherpower_lighting_flashlites.html> BTW - there is an LED version of the Mini Q40 flashlight. Perhaps they sell a conversion kit or new light head. Mike *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Forgive me I may have missed it, what is a C-Light? -Joe *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Rattrap1_at_aol.com wrote: > Forgive me I may have missed it, what is a C-Light? http://www.acrelectronics.com/clight/c-light.html The odd-shaped lens creates a horizontal beam of light cast in all directions as well as a beam of light straight up. You can get a large suction cup base to allow mounting on the deck of your kayak instead of on your PFD. Mike *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Rattrap1_at_aol.com wrote: > Forgive me I may have missed it, what is a C-Light? http://www.acrelectronics.com/clight/c-light.html The odd-shaped lens creates a horizontal beam of light cast in all directions as well as a beam of light straight up. You can get a large suction cup base to allow mounting on the deck of your kayak instead of on your PFD. Mike *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
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