[Paddlewise] pump my ride

  In a kayak I had a few years back, I had an Attwood Waterbuster
http://tinyurl.com/2dy7uv   In my new boat I wanted a marine-grade pump that
could be turned on and off with the sprayskirt sealed (so the boat wouldnbt
reswamp), and that ran on AAs rather than D cells. (I have a solar panel
set-up on my kayak that can recharge AAs but not Ds.)   Via Paddlewise, I
discovered Mike Dalybs set-up:   http://www.greatlakeskayaker.ca/pump.html
Ibve basically duplicated Mikebs system with a few tweaks:    Instead of a
one-way check valve b the lips of which can get jammed open by debris b I
put a loop in the outlet hose to prevent backwash and downflooding (Ibll be
melting a small hole with a hot pin at the top of the loop in the hose. This
will allow air to bleed off and prevent an airlock forming there.)    I
upgraded the battery holders to ones with snap-on lids to prevent batteries
falling out. One lid is visible (removed for clarity) in this photo.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kayakwriter/458388046 I trimmed tangs and a bit
off the ends of these holders to create more room in the case. From his web
page, it sounds like Mike upgraded the battery holders in his set-up after his
photos were taken.   In places, I cut out the walls of the rubber liner tray
of the Pelican Micro Case. This was to make room for the ends of the fuse
holder and to allow the air switch to butt up right against the side it runs
through. I was careful not to cut the liner tray near its lip, which forms the
waterproof gasket for the lid when the case is closed.   I had the option of
using 2650 mAh AAs (battery technology has improved since Mike built his unit
with 2300 mAh batteries). Instead, I opted for new Panasonic R2 NiMHs. They
actually have a little less capacity b 2050 mAhs b but a lower
self-discharge rate (they claim up to 80% capacity after 6 months storage). I
hope not to be using the pump regularly, so I want it to be as
maintenance-free as possible.    Mike mentioned to me in a private email that
the screw holders on his pump base had broken over time (I guess that when
Attwood designed the unit, they didnbt contemplate a boat that inverted
completely as a matter of routine.) So I put some of the same stick-on Velcro
on the bottom of the pump base as is used to hold the Pelican Micro Case in
place. Ibm hoping this will minimize torque on the screw holes. Ibd
debated epoxying the base in place, but decided it would make
repair/removal/replacement without damaging the boat bottom really hard.
Youbll notice in this photo
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kayakwriter/458388054 that in my configuration,
the Micro Case sits on the bottom of the boat. This keeps the centre of
gravity lower (itbs a heavy little unit, crammed as it is with batteries,
switch, and fuse. Ibve also fit a spare fuse and a moisture-absorbing
desiccant packet in there.) Also, the nipple for the air hose (the silver
thing just visible behind the pump) is on the far side from the air switch.
This allows the air hose (just visible behind the water hose) to run to the
air button without crimps.    Thanks to Mike D for the original idea and for
answering my questions.   Ibm toying with the idea of seacocks that would
allow me, in the event of hatch leakage, to drain water from the bow or stern
compartments into the cockpit, where the pump could dispose of it. To be
operable at sea, that would require a pipe from the bow bulkhead, so Ibll
have to decide whether itbs practical.
 Philip

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