In a message dated 4/7/2007 3:57:22 PM Pacific Daylight Time, tord_at_tord.nu writes: In the world of aircraft design gluing the skins to aircraft frames is today popular, but to prevent the joints from running, if the glue joint for some reason fails, sometimes, sparsely applied rivets are used. Maybe that could be applied to kayaks? Tord HI! I have an old (35 years or so) fiberglass kayak, which has the top deck attached to the hull by rivets and glued. Some of the glue has failed. I believe this boat was used extensively in Washington State, in Puget Sound in the 1970's. There is no identification as to maker but it does not look like a homemade boat. 14 feet long (4.25 meters) with white gel coat. The seat was rusted out when it was given to me. Cockpit coaming is glassed in separately, some type of ridge for the foot braces is molded into the hull (protruding strip), and the handles each end are (chromed?) metal in a square shape. Kayak shape resembles Aleut design, very high cockpit. 56 pounds (25 kg) empty. Anyone have any ideas who may have made it? Pam in Washington State ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
G'day, Can anyone comment on the practice of using through hull bolts to fit foot pegs. Are they likely to cause leaks. I've noticed rust stains recently around a coiple of six such bolts that have been installed for 3 years now. Also I'm finding it very difficult to keep water out of the cockpit when the boat is heavily loaded or when I'm hard edging in choppy water. Is it possible to get leakproof spray decks. Are there any tricks to making a neoprene spray deck leak proof. All the best, PeterO *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Peter: Regarding leak-proof neoprene spray decks, my experience is that there is no such animal, particularly -- but not only -- for someone who kayaks in waves and who rolls. These decks all let in some water. I have use Snapdragon, Seals, and a British brand that I forget its name (starts with a B, I think). They all leaked a bit. Cheers, Josh Peter wrote: > Is it possible to get leakproof spray decks. Are there any tricks to > making > a neoprene spray deck leak proof. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
> Can anyone comment on the practice of using through hull bolts to fit foot > pegs. Are they likely to cause leaks. I've noticed rust stains recently > around a coiple of six such bolts that have been installed for 3 years now. This rust somehow migrates through the hole without causing leaks, IMHO. You may use some marine sealant in those holes - 3M 4200, 3M 5200. The second one is more "permanent" - difficult to clean it out and un-screw the bolt if needed, after it's cured completely. Instruction says 48 hours until it's tack-free (for both), and 7 days until completely cures - in relaity it's about 10 days until completely cures. But it's TAD elastic (not like epoxy), so loading it after 48 hrs won't necessarily destroy your work. Comes in black or white, and the whole tube dries out in a month after you've opened the tube, no matter if you were using it or not. Some irreversible chemical chain reaction after it's been exposed to air. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
PeterO wrote: > Can anyone comment on the practice of using through hull bolts to fit foot > pegs. Are they likely to cause leaks. I've noticed rust stains recently > around a couple of six such bolts that have been installed for 3 years > now. No significant leaks in the three-four hardshells I've owned. No rust, either. If your bolts are stainless, they should not rust. Might be time to take a look at the condition of the bolts and replace them if needed. In lieu of marine sealants, I've been using small, close-fitting O-rings on my through-hull bolts. No leaks. -- Dave Kruger Astoria, OR *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
> Peter: > > Regarding leak-proof neoprene spray decks, my experience is that there is no > such animal, particularly -- but not only -- for someone who kayaks in waves > and who rolls. These decks all let in some water. I have use Snapdragon, > Seals, and a British brand that I forget its name (starts with a B, I > think). They all leaked a bit. My British Bushsport spraydeck was the best I've ever used for leak-proof. I had mine especially ordered with the latex on the inside, which compressed nicely around the coaming. It had a tunnel with suspenders, all neoprene. It didn't work with my new drysuit tunnel, and also rubbed on my chest a bit too much, so I switched to a Snapdragon. The Bushsport still leaked a very small amount, just around the rear of the coaming. The latex on the inside made it difficult to remove quickly and the company said they will not make them for a new paddler. Thru bolts? I have more bolts in my deck and hull than I care to admit. Rubber washers eliminate any leakage. Doug Lloyd *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Looks like a nice skirt: http://www.chillcheater.com/products/shop.asp?cid=794&p=1&pid=21521 I wonder how well they work with the average coaming as far as being leak-proof. Doug L > On Monday 09 April 2007 21:47, PeterO wrote: >> G'day, >> >> Can anyone comment on the practice of using through hull bolts to fit >> foot pegs. Are they likely to cause leaks. I've noticed rust stains >> recently around a coiple of six such bolts that have been installed for >> 3 years now. > > I would use stainless bolts! > >> Also I'm finding it very difficult to keep water out of the cockpit when >> the boat is heavily loaded or when I'm hard edging in choppy water. > > Sounds serious! > >> Is it possible to get leakproof spray decks. Are there any tricks to >> making a neoprene spray deck leak proof. > > Ask for the help from Chillcheater :-)! > > They both make jackets with sprayskirts and make > sprayskirts exactly to your measurements! > > See > > www.chillcheater.com > > Tord *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
> Looks like a nice skirt: > > http://www.chillcheater.com/products/shop.asp?cid=794&p=1&pid=21521 > > I wonder how well they work with the average coaming as far as being > leak-proof. > > Doug L For me, the only system that makes a water proof seal is the rubber rand type of spray skirt that nearly all WW paddlers seem to use. The skirt mentioned above does not appear to be of that type. I always had a small leak in my glass sea kayak around the caoming until I finally went with the rubber rand type skirt. -mike *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Leaky cockpit - spray deck - through hull bolts > Ask for the help from Chillcheater :-)! > > They both make jackets with sprayskirts and make > sprayskirts exactly to your measurements! > > See > > www.chillcheater.com > > Tord > Can't second that recommendation. I have a chillcheater. It's my favorite spray deck. It's light, drys fast, fits around my chest fine. But on my NDK HV Explorer it's no better then any of the other 4 decks I own. This is likely the fault of the deck coaming design. There is a wide flare or flange where the coaming cuts in. I believe water gets under the flange then finds it's way under the overlapping spray deck. My tightest spray deck is a Brooks whitewater deck that has a sticky rubber substance all along the edge. It's a good deck, sometimes hard to put on when hands are cold and picks up grains of sand like flypaper - especially when the temperature goes up. I've learned to live with the wet ride. Soon I'll be elligible for British citizenship. I have a great SnapDragon, reinforced rand, nylon waist and neoprene top band. This is a great spray deck. Unfortunately it fits a large person and an extra large cockpit for a boat I no longer own. Anyone on Vancouver Island or region who needs something like this can get ahold of me back channel. Gordin Warner *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
On Monday 09 April 2007 21:47, PeterO wrote: > G'day, > > Can anyone comment on the practice of using through hull bolts to fit > foot pegs. Are they likely to cause leaks. I've noticed rust stains > recently around a coiple of six such bolts that have been installed for > 3 years now. I would use stainless bolts! > Also I'm finding it very difficult to keep water out of the cockpit when > the boat is heavily loaded or when I'm hard edging in choppy water. Sounds serious! > Is it possible to get leakproof spray decks. Are there any tricks to > making a neoprene spray deck leak proof. Ask for the help from Chillcheater :-)! They both make jackets with sprayskirts and make sprayskirts exactly to your measurements! See www.chillcheater.com Tord *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
PeterO asked: >>>>>Can anyone comment on the practice of using through hull bolts to fit foot pegs. Are they likely to cause leaks. I've noticed rust stains recently around a coiple of six such bolts that have been installed for 3 years now.<<<<< They could leak is they have no gasket and the bolts weren't threaded through the fiberglass (or the hole through the fiberglass has worn to a bigger size maybe). Easy to check though just put some water inside the kayak and let it sit against the foot pedals. Notice if any is dripping out. If they are "stainless steel" you may be noticing crevice corrosion between the SS bolt and a SS nut (if there is one). Also possible is mild rust colored corrosion on the surface of the SS (because the alloy used for fittings is not as stainless as some others in order to allow threads to be machined into it). If that is the case don't worry as it is not like rust in carbon steel that expands to bigger than the material corroded and therefore flakes away causing a progressive problem that eventually destroy the bolt. The rust color is more like a staining than corrosion. If the bolts (or any nuts) are not stainless steel then the problem will probably progress and get far uglier over time. Matt Broze www.marinerkayaks.com *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
>>>>>>>>>>>HI! I have an old (35 years or so) fiberglass kayak, which has the top deck attached to the hull by rivets and glued. Some of the glue has failed. I believe this boat was used extensively in Washington State, in Puget Sound in the 1970's. There is no identification as to maker but it does not look like a homemade boat. 14 feet long (4.25 meters) with white gel coat. The seat was rusted out when it was given to me. Cockpit coaming is glassed in separately, some type of ridge for the foot braces is molded into the hull (protruding strip), and the handles each end are (chromed?) metal in a square shape. Kayak shape resembles Aleut design, very high cockpit. 56 pounds (25 kg) empty. Anyone have any ideas who may have made it? Pam in Washington State<<<<<<<<< If you send me a few small picture files (640x480 say) of it (Top, bottom, side, close-up of the coaming) I could probably identify it for you. Maybe I could ID it even if I got a much more detailed description, Chine or round hull? Flange seam protruding out or not? A description of the shape and size of the cockpit (inside measurements please and maybe the inside height from the front of the cockpit to the hull) could be helpful Also the height above the deck of the cockpit flange in inches. Any hatches? Width of kayak at its widest place? Any metal or decorative trim at the seam line? Matt Broze www.marinerkayaks.com *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
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