[Paddlewise] Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2008 03:53:08 -0800 MIME-Version: 1.0 X-OriginalArrivalTime: 21 Dec 2008 11:53:08.0228 (UTC) FILETIME=[B0E17440:01C96362] X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from multipart/alternative by demime 1.01e X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/plain Sender: owner-paddlewise_at_paddlewise.net Precedence: list X-Listname: Paddlewise Mailing List X-Subscription-Info: paddlewise-request_at_paddlewise.net I wrote:Most lightweight wood kayaks have a single layer of fiberglass on the outsideof the hull and just varnish on the inside. The fiberglass adds a waterproofabrasion resistant layer but most of the strength and rigidity is in the wood.Putting a single fiberglass layer both the inside and outside of the wood coremakes the wood kayak as heavy as a similar sized fiberglass kayakTony wrote:>>>>>>Sorry Matt, this is not true at all. First, I know of no one who builds strip built kayaks and does not glass the inside. I have built 2 of Nick Shades designs, a Guillemot, 6 oz glass on inside and out. 4 oz carbon fiber in the cockpit and it came in at 37 pounds. I also built his Great Auk, but modified the deck a bit, glass schedule same as the guillemot, weight is 39 pounds. This is a big, high vol sea kayak at less than 40 pounds. The third kayak I built was Tom Yost's Sea Ranger stripper. It was the first one built and was glassed the same as the others. Weight, 33 pounds. it is an extremely low volume hard chined kayak that is perfect for rolling, is fast and maneuverable. The technique to building a light kayak is to use the right amount of epoxy. More is not 'better', only heavier.......<<<<<<<<<<< I was thinking of plywood kayaks when I wrote the above, but that doesn't change the reality of the statement much because I think there are a lot more plywood kayak kits built than wood strippers. I suspect that a stripper is far more in need of that inside layer than a plywood kayak, as well. My point was that you get lightweight by making some sacrifice no matter what materials you use. I agree that using minimal epoxy is the way to go, however most first time builders can not get nearly as light a kayak as an experienced builder can. Many even have to buy more epoxy because the kit they bought had enough for an experienced builder but not enough for them. You could make an even lighter kayak by using balsa wood strips or foam strips but I think you would find several problems due to that materials strength and compressability unless you made the glass skinning a lot heavier (and therefore making it more of the structural strength). There are fiberglass kayaks in the weight ranges you list but I suspect they might not be as durable where stiffness is desirable (against folding) than a wood cedar strip kayak of the same size (but might do better at taking a hard concentrated blow). Who sells the Sea Ranger plans (or makes them)? Are they only wood kayaks? Maybe it is relatively new, I can't find it in my extensive single kayaks database. I'd like to add it. Can you tell me the length, width, inside cockpit length width and inside depth below the front of the cockpit? *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************Received on Sun Dec 21 2008 - 03:53:15 PST
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