On Thu, Aug 27, 2009 at 7:34 AM, Dave Kruger <kdruger_at_pacifier.com> wrote: > > Getting back to Duane's question: When surfing a wave breaking in a surf > zone, orbital motion takes a back seat to gravity and waveslope, I think, > complicated by the fact the water mass of a breaking wave is moving toward > the beach (I think). Surfing a standing wave is a somewhat different kettle > of fish, from the point of view of motion of the water mass (I think). This is what's confusing for me. The dynamics of a standing wave seem far simpler (to me) than ocean surf and I'm having a hard time picturing all the motions. Even though there is no real forward motion when surfing a standing wave, there is a virtual motion. The forward-moving velocity of the kayak is canceled by the aft-moving water particles so to an observer on the shore the kayak doesn't move up or down the stream but to the kayaker there is certainly the feeling of motion (in fact, if I'm "in the moment" on a standing wave in a river I can get disoriented if I inadvertently focus on the un-moving shoreline). The cardinal rule of surfing is to lean upstream to avoid catching an edge and capsizing (unless, of course, you *want* to catch an edge). But in ocean surf it just seems different to me because there is real motion for everything. The kayak is moving down the wave face while the wave face is itself moving forward and often changing shape. Water particle motion upwards in ocean surf must become more important as the wave becomes steeper or less steep (I think). So a paddler still has to be careful of catching an edge; with the position of the kayak on the wave face making some difference (lower and you get more water particles moving towards you as they begin their circular movement in a wave). > My bet is that Duane is both skidding _and_ carving, depending on the > steepness of the waveface, and that when "down wave edging" he is tipped so > far down-wave he thinks he is using the down-wave edge to carve, but he is > really skidding. (I think) I think you're right. Duane is probably much better at holding that fine line between carving and tripping over the chine than I would be but it seems to me that he has to be doing a fair bit of skidding. I wonder how often Duane capsizes "downstream" (towards the beach) versus "upstream" (towards the wave face). His technique might not work at all if he were in a classic surf kayak. If it seems I am hedging here, that's good. I am so far past my > board-surfing days and such an infrequent kayak-surfer, I do not have much > competence to stand on. This is my handicap too. Most of my surfing is on boat wakes which are entirely different from surf; for one thing they are steeper at first and then become less steep which is the exact opposite of most ocean surf. So the start can be really really exciting and then you just sort of taper off to nothing. It's difficult to get set on a boat wake because the good ride is so short unless you can combine it with a handy gravel bar somewhere. > But, maybe some of this will give Duane grist for sorting out the dynamics. > Doug, he's got more grist than any seven people I know, so he does not need > any more from me. Food for thought, for sure. Craig Jungers Moses Lake, WA www.nwkayaking.net *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************Received on Thu Aug 27 2009 - 08:48:58 PDT
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