For those of you trapped in the cold & ice - if dreaming about next summer seems a good idea - I'd love some help to plan an adventure. We want to do some paddling and see some of the great country in BC and Alaska. It'll be our first time north of Whistler - Lake Louise. We have 28 days - next July / August - flying into & back from Vancouver. To set the stage for you... Natasha & I are reasonably strong & confident ocean paddlers. We have 10 years and some 1000's of coastal kms behind us, although neither of us has done more than a 10-day trip (yet). On a trip we may do 15 km on an adverse day (or one with lots of caves & arches ;-) or 75 km on a crazy-long day. Metre-high surf beaches are fine, two metre surf is best avoided. 15-knot wind is OK, 25 knot is a pain and 35+ is get-the-hell-off-the-water. That's our comfort zone mapped out. Oh - and neither of us is good at living off the bounty of the sea. N hates it and much of it would send me into a nasty allergy reaction (if I were silly enough to eat it). So we carry a nice range of home-dehydrated meals and leave the fish alone. In anticipation of the colder water (colder than we normally encounter here in NZ), we now both have Kokatat Goretex drysuits (with feet) and have paddled enough in them to start to get a feel for sweat, good/bad under-layers with various air & water temps. All OK & still having fun experimenting. Marvellous bits of kit ! We have acquired a Feathercraft K2 (double folder - 10 yo but in v. good shape), which we consider to be a very strong and sea-kindly kayak. We believe we can survive the relationship perils of the tandem - and one goal over the next 7 months will be honing our techniques for getting a loaded double down to & up from the water's edge. All of our experience with doubles has been with unloaded ones - and we are wide awake to that difference. We both have solo experience with heavily-laden singles. We are both licensed VHF users, practised in rescue skills and do our best to access risk intelligently. Bears & calving glaciers do sound scary ;-) So - that's what we're bringing to the party - now what best to do ? I would've loved to get to SSTIKS (June) or the symposium in Port Townsend (September), as N & I have been very involved with the Coastbusters Symposium here in Auckland. However, neither fit July/August. Anyone know of something that does ? We'd like to : - paddle in some different and stunning scenery - mountains are a big plus - survive some wildlife - drive through some of the great open spaces I'm tempted to rent a car for the month, drive up to Skagway or Haines (2700 km is big, but we enjoy long drives), do a shakedown overnight paddle somewhere, take a ferry to Glacier Bay and paddle as long as we want and as long as the weather lets us. Good: Very flexible - weather, energy, fear, etc. Water-taxi backup in G-Bay Bad: Have to retrace (by & large) our driving steps to get the rental car back. I have always wanted to take the ferry up the coastal 'inside passage' - but I have read that after kayaking in the panhandle, the ferry is 2nd best. Flying in & out (Juneau or Sitka) has some merit - but loses much of the flexibility for deciding that the current weather is 'crap' and we should instead drive up to the Arctic Circle or the North Slope - or implement some other plan B that seems better than sitting around waiting on the weather Gods... Anyway - you get the picture. Tear it to shreds. Any suggestions for lakes or rivers that would appeal on the inland route north ? Is Glacier Bay a million times less interesting than coastal Sitka to Juneau ? All comment welcome. Oh - and to complicate it further, if I can squeeze a few days into the schedule, I've a friend near Tofino (on Vancouver Island) who I'd love to visit... So - if nothing else, I've got you dreaming about next summer, right ? Best Regards Paul Hayward, Auckland, New Zealand *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Wow, Paul.... sounds like you have a great opportunity. Even 28 days will go fast. Wish I had that much time available away from the Internet. Your folding K2 will give you a versatility that most of us could only wish for. Some people like to plan every detail of their trip and others lprefer to "wing it". I fall in the middle. I like a general plan but with plenty of latitude to divert to another plan if it is more appealing. A rental car gives you the versatility to take advantage of side trips but it also can make you lose whatever focus you might have had. My wife would like to take a "cruise ship" to Alaska. Now, as a retired merchant marine officer my motto has been "I'll get on a ship again when they pay me $100k a year to do it!" My wife, for some reason, is not supportive. However a ferry is different. I love to ride ferries. So I'd start with an Alaskan Ferry System trip north into SE Alaska (sans car). These ferries make 20kts day and night and can cover that water pretty quickly. Not only that but there is a pretty good chance I'll run into some old buddies who are working for the AK ferry system. My own preference would be to not take a stateroom and, instead, spend as much time as I could in the observation area scoping out the potential paddling territory with binoculars. This also serves to keep the costs down. Plus I'm not into the idea of being "pampered" on a cruise ship. Skagway is an interesting community but its paddling opportunities don't appeal to me very much. I think I would rather disembark at Sitka and camp/kayak around there for a few days. Then I would turn around and head right back south, perhaps to Prince Rupert where the AK ferries and the BC ferries intersect. This gives a paddler the chance to shift to one of the BC ferries to get a better feel for the smaller communities and tighter water. Prince Rupert is a perfect spot to regroup and decide where you want to go next; partly because of the intersection of the two ferry systems but also because it's one of the best spots to get access out to Haida Gwai (the official name for the Queen Charlotte Islands). One of the BC ferries will give a paddler the option to get off - and into your kayak/canoe - at almost any spot on the route and arrange to be picked up the same way at a prearranged place/date later. No dock required. A BC ferry from Prince Rupert will get you to Port McNeill on Vancouver Island. Word is that there is a terrific little kayak "resort" in the Broughtens (Simoom Bay) that will pick you up in their boat at Port McNeill (on Vancouver Island) and take you out. They are well situated and rustic with a floating cabin (as well as one on land). Food service, too. Nothing fancy. I like the idea of having my kayak on the deck outside my floating cabin. www.paddlersinn.ca for more info. I think I'd make this my first priority after the ferry tour. I have not stayed at Paddler's Inn but several BC paddlers have had nothing but good to report. If you don't like it then you are still in prime paddling territory. If you do decide to rent a car and drive north (not a terrible idea, either) you might consider going to Prince Rupert, BC (only about 800km instead of going all the way to Skagway. Although, frankly, a kayak trip on the Yukon River would be a nice conversation point when you get back to NZ. I have not been farther north by road in Canada than the the Bowron Lakes (a worthwhile side trip, by the way) but I expect to tow the Muthah Ship up to Prince Rupert this summer (2010) for a trip to Haida Gwai. Nice to sit here in my Spongebob jammies with Google Earth on my laptop and think of trips to come. This afternoon there will be ice skating at the local municipal rink. This morning I'll be working (outside at freezing temps standing in the snow) to complete my kayak rack for a trip to S. California towing the Princess for Chrismas in the sun. Doheny Beach (Dana Point, CA) is supposed to be in the 70s this weekend!!! Sue and I can be there in 24 hours driving 3 hours on and 3 hours off (the watch schedule we used when cruising on our 32-foot sailboat back in the 1980s). I'm sure you'll have a great time, Paul. If you get a chance to come through here be sure and let me know. Craig Jungers Moses Lake, WA www.nwkayaking.net *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Craig, Bob & Kirby Just booked the flights - from 15 July to 15 Aug - wee-ha ! Many thanks for the replies guys - lots of meat in those response and I'll go through them carefully over the next few days. Full-on weekend, with a night paddle tonight, first-aid refresher course over both weekend days and a pre-Christmas party Sat night. It's that time of year again ;-) NZ Christmas-time has the added hustle of the start to the summer-holiday period (most offices & factories shut down for 10-14 days). Everybody heads for the beach or the hills (hiking). Which is what I'll be doing from the 25th. Best Regards Paul Hayward, Auckland, New Zealand *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
The best trip on the North American coast is from Sitka to Glacier Bay. You have protected water to The north end of Baranof then a 15 mile exposed and partially tidal paddle on the south end of Chichigof. If the weather is favorable then stay on the outside around the Myriad island til you get to Warm Sulpher Springs. Otherwise, after Khaz Peninsula dart into the interior of West Chichigof and island hop or get drawn within and out of the bays. The area around Dry Pass is good to wait out conditions until you make a break for the hot springs. It's only 4 or so NM to them that is exposed. Last time I did it I was a few yards from a pod of Grey Whales that came over to check us out. Next bit after the springs is decide if you want west side of Yakobi Island or inside the Lisianski Strait separating Yakobi and Chichigof. You can go full coastal or interior and reasonably protected after rounding the Porcupine islands just off the springs. Your call on the weather. Then you get big currents at the Inian islands, regardless which way you go. Cross Icy Strait then enter Glacier Bay. Careful, it too has big currents, particularly at the mouth and the first few miles. Go up as far as you want then return to Gustavus for a flight to the US mainland. That section of Alaska has more wildlife than you can keep track of. Bears, whale, wolves, pinnipeds, bird life, moose, you name it. There is a good book written by Jim Howard called South East Alaska Kayaking. You can buy it from Sea Kayaker Magazine or some other place. Cheers, Rob G -----Original Message----- From: Craig Jungers <crjungers_at_gmail.com> To: pdh_at_mmcl.co.nz Cc: paddlewise_at_paddlewise.net Sent: Thu, Dec 17, 2009 8:50 am Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Alaska & BC planning . Skagway is an interesting community but its paddling opportunities don't appeal to me very much. I think I would rather disembark at Sitka and camp/kayak around there for a few days. Then I would turn around and head right back south, perhaps to Prince Rupert where the AK ferries and the BC ferries intersect. This gives a paddler the chance to shift to one of the BC ferries to get a better feel for the smaller communities and tighter water. Prince Rupert is a perfect spot to regroup and decide where you want to go next; partly because of the intersection of the two ferry systems but also because it's one of the best spots to get access out to Haida Gwai (the official name for the Queen Charlotte Islands). One of the BC ferries will give a paddler the option to get off - and into your kayak/canoe - at almost any spot on the route and arrange to be picked up the same way at a prearranged place/date later. No dock required. A BC ferry from Prince Rupert will get you to Port McNeill on Vancouver Island. Word is that there is a terrific little kayak "resort" in the Broughtens (Simoom Bay) that will pick you up in their boat at Port McNeill (on Vancouver Island) and take you out. They are well situated and rustic with a floating cabin (as well as one on land). Food service, too. Nothing fancy. I like the idea of having my kayak on the deck outside my floating cabin. www.paddlersinn.ca for more info. I think I'd make this my first priority after the ferry tour. I have not stayed at Paddler's Inn but several BC paddlers have had nothing but good to report. If you don't like it then you are still in prime paddling territory. ************************************************************************* ** *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Paul, Just a couple quick comments. If you have 28 days I would suggest boarding the ferry in Bellingham and heading North. It is a good way to acclimate to the climate and the scenery. Several of the places the ferry stops are good places to begin a trip. I would recommend Petersburg (my home) where you are a two day paddle away from the LeConte Glacier the southern most tidewater glacier in the Northern hemisphere. The LeConte is activiely calving tons of ice bergs every day and there are a couple real nice campsites in the fjord itself. Also you can paddle north of here into the whale feeding grounds of Fredrick Sound. (I will gladly serve as host if you come here. ) Sitka can be the start of grand paddle on the outside waters or if the weather is rough an equally enjoy able paddle through some mostly protected inland waterways. In Juneau of course you can get a water taxi to Glacier Bay. I would recommend being dropped off well up in the Bay. The problem with Glacier Bay is the bears. If a bear causes a problem with campers they shut down that camp site so when you get to the park headquarters you might have to change your paddling plans. Also your food must be in bear proof containers which do not fit well in a lot of kayaks. Skagway and Haines are good spots to begin a drive but as far as kayaking there are better choices. My suggestion would be to use the Ferry to get you to different places so you can paddle in a variety of settings. I have trip report from several of these places so as you put your plans together let me know if any of them would help. Bob *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Paul, You might want to see if you can get a copy of Guide To Seakayaking in Southeast Alaska by Jim Howard published by The Globe Pequot Press www.globepequot.com It is a good guide for studying where you might want to kayak in Southeast Bob *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Bob Carter said > get a copy of Guide To Seakayaking in Southeast Alaska by Jim Howard Thanks Bob Bought it last year and have absorbed lots of good info from it. My only criticism is that he makes it all sound good ;-) I'm aware that Jim wrote it 11 years ago now - and some things may have changed... Best Regards Paul Hayward, Auckland, New Zealand *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Rob abd Paul Rob wrote> The best trip on the North American coast is from Sitka to Glacier Bay. I have paddled from Sitka to Pelican but we did not go to Glacier Bay. Our Glacier bay trip started in Tenekee. The outside trip from Sitka was one of my most memorable but it is not one I would do in bad weather unless I had several days of extra food. Paul if you want one of these trip reports let me know. Bob *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Paul wrote>>>Just booked the flights - from 15 July to 15 Aug - wee-ha ! This is prime time for Humpback whales in Fredrick Sound North of Petersburg. Also lots of salmon and bears...fun,fun. Bob *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
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