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From: Craig Jungers <crjungers_at_gmail.com>
subject: [Paddlewise] Southern California Report
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 10:25:21 -0800
Sue and I just watched Duane's video of the SanO surf scene and I couldn't
find Annette Funicello anywhere. But I just looked out at *our* beach and if
you guys thought it was cold there on that sunny Christmas Eve morn then I
have a shock for you. It was 18F here when I struggled out of bed and it's
all the way up to 24F now... on its way to a foggy high of 32F. Whoopee.

We left Moses Lake at 7am on December 19th (Saturday) and arrived at Doheny
Beach campground in Dana Point, CA (50 miles or so south of LA) about 6pm
the next day (Sunday), had dinner, walked around the campground and went to
bed. The next morning we were glad that we had not sprung for the classier
"on-the-beach" camp spots because there was a 12-foot sand berm bulldozed up
between the campers and the water. For $35 a night we looked across the road
and through an empty camp spot at the berm. For $65 a night we could have
been even closer to it. I never did see the water at Doheny except once we
walked to the end of the berm. Nor could I get a straight answer from anyone
as to when the berm went away - if ever. Even so, the place was attractive,
clean, and we were close to the showers and toilets.

I had bought two 30-watt solar panels before we left and those proved
remarkably efficient at keeping us in lights and music plus a couple of DVD
movies in the evening. They were about half the physical size of the 33-watt
panels we had used on our cruising yacht (Kibitka) in the 1980s and about
half the cost (via Amazon). I also had a 7-amp voltage regulator that I
didn't bother using as the days were short and the nights were long and we
never risked over charging the batteries even though I re-aimed the panels
every few hours as the sun moved in its low arc across the southern sky. I
found it interesting that although we had used solar panels in the 1980s
there were still RV enthusiasts who had no clue what they were and we
fielded several queries about whether or not they worked. Every day the rest
of the campground echoed to the sounds of generators running but we had a
quiet and efficient charging system all day long. We didn't even bring along
a gasoline generator.

While at Doheny and waiting for the big SanO Christmas Eve morning surfing
extravaganza we did the usual touristy things including a visit to the
Mission at San Juan Capistrano.  The swallows, apparently, were still
vacationing in Argentina. I was surprised to learn that the entire mission -
valued at $55,000 - had been sold by the Mexican governor of California to
his son-in-law for a measly $710. I am so glad corruption has ended in the
USA. I love the missions but I am ambivalent in my feelings. The history of
the missions is mixed. On one hand they unquestionably civilized California
(both upper and lower). On the other hand they decimated the populations of
those who were already here through sickness and virtual slavery. There is
no doubt that California would be different without them but no one knows
exactly how different. I found myself wondering why the missions were so
often situated miles from the ocean and wondered if they would have been
placed differently if the padres had kayaks instead of burros. This is not,
as the more cynical of you might think, an obligatory paddling reference.
Boats either had to be brought around the tip of South America or built on
the Pacific side of the contenent so this made them relatively rare until
the California gold rush of 1849. By this time the kayak cultures of the
north were well established and there is little doubt in my mind that the
craft could have revolutionized travel where the trees were too small to
make into dugout canoes. Certainly there must have been plenty of seals for
covering. If there had been kayaks we could be marveling at the mission at
Nuestra Senora de Newport Beach. Just imagine.

The big event for us was, of course, the CKF surf extravaganza at San Onofre
State Beach. Lucky for us Mark Sanders led us to the beach or we'd have been
on our own miles away. The surf may have looked low and safe to Duane and
Steve and Mark and the rest but as I sat there in the 40F temps (warmed to
60 or so later) I was not enthused. The low stuff was fine but every now and
then they looked bigger; at least to me. I was also reminded that the
previous day I had taken my last antibiotic for the bout of pneumonia the
doctor diagnosed ten days earlier. And besides, the sun was getting warmer
and there were doughnuts. So I took the F1 off the truck and assured Mark
Sanders that it would not break under his weight (he and I aren't that far
apart in weight anyway) and, sure enough, he took it out and did well even
against Steve's *real* Coaster.

The highlight of that morning was, for me, the honorary induction into the
CKF music section by virtue of my nearly incoherent rendition of "There Is a
Beach in Southern Cal" (to the tune of "House in New Orleans"). Can a Grammy
be far behind? Well... ya... it can. I was awed by the talent of the real
members of the music section, however. Especially Steve's impromptu
rendition of "Mighty Fine Dawg" (a selection well appreciated by the dog's
owners) and Barb's unforgettable solo, "Get that thing out of my face!"
Tears come to my eyes.

We left Doheny Beach campground at 0-dark-thirty on Christmas morning. I
made a good-faith effort to keep the hook-up and departure as quick and
quiet as possible but I'm sure we annoyed someone even though the place was
mostly deserted. Our goal was Monterey where I had tried in the past to
paddle in the bull kelp areas off the famous Aquarium only to be thwarted by
weather. My Christmas present - and a present to Sue - was a quiet winter
paddle with the sea otters. Plus we got in some surfing as there was a bit
of a swell breaking against the beach behind the Monterey Bay Kayak shop. We
asked another kayaker what the rules for the area were and he told us that
the otters make the rules. So we glided into the kelp beds to find ourselves
surrounded by sea otters who regarded us solemnly but without fear. I was
surprised to see a mother with a pup on her tummy only a few feet from me
and we regarded each other curiously. The pup launched into the water as Sue
drifted past and ended up swimming along behind me and parallel with Sue.
The otters are not tame but they don't seem perturbed by kayakers. Although
a 40-foot sailboat motoring into the kelp at 4-kts managed to scatter them
pretty well. He scattered us, too.

After this there didn't seem to be anything else to do but motor north
towards the cold. We picked up the kids (at the Redding, CA grandpa's house)
at 11am the next day (Saturday) and we were home in Moses Lake, WA by 11pm
that night. The new bicycle for Hailey was unloaded at her house and then we
discovered that the throw-out bearing for my Dodge pickup had gone out just
as we motored up to the lake house. At least it wasn't inconvenient.

Many thanks to the CKF gang who, as usual, treated us as one of their own.
If there was any reason to live in SoCal the CKF group would be it.

Oh, look... the sun is out here and the temperature is all the way up to
26F. I wonder how you fix a throw-out bearing.


Happy New Year Everyone. I'll have some photos of the trip on my website
over the next few days.

Craig Jungers
Moses Lake, WA
www.nwkayaking.net
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From: Dave Kruger <kdruger_at_pacifier.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Southern California Report
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 11:07:26 -0800
Craig Jungers wrote:

> While at Doheny and waiting for the big SanO Christmas Eve morning
> surfing extravaganza we did the usual touristy things including a visit
> to the Mission at San Juan Capistrano. [snip] I found myself wondering
> why the missions were so often situated miles from the ocean and
> wondered if they would have been placed differently if the padres had
> kayaks instead of burros.

If the natives had had watercraft, I bet the padres would have used them. 
The natives lived a subsistence lifestyle in a climate and time when little 
contact with the ocean was needed, unlike the cultures to the north which 
depended on the sea for their subsistence.

I grew up just south of San Onofre some 50 miles or so, passing through the 
mandatory yearly dose of California history in elementary school, replete 
with the saga of the missions, sans what the natives might have thought of 
it all.  Nowadays, the offspring are getting even with a panoply of 
casinos, reversing the flow of gold and goods.

Now to the real reason the missions were sited inland:  They were placed 
along El Camino Real, which is most places not a coastwise arterial at all, 
because of the huge salt marshes alternating with sandstone-based 
peninsulas, some steep-to, some just rounded lumpy barriers to a coastwise 
walker (who would be a _swimmer_ at the low points).  No way a wagon, 
horse, and burro road could have been maintained closer to the coast.  And, 
the marshes were no doubt an alleged source of bad humours and (perhaps) 
malaria.  Even today, those low areas are a barrier to the sprawl Southern 
California spawned for the rest of us to enjoy.

The peninsulas were extensively used by the natives, for their acorns (made 
into "flour" after much working in a stone metate' followed by leaching of 
the bitter tannins from the acorn flesh), for pinon nuts, and for access to 
the ocean, for fish, pinipeds (rare), and bivalves.  As young snorkelers, 
my buddies found (and retrieved for use as yard ornaments) dozens upon 
dozens of metate's from the rubble alongside the major reef at the north 
end of Solana Beach, just south of Seaside, a reef break well-known to 
surfers.  The metates are a gift of the rapid erosion of the peninsulas, to 
be joined soon (in geologic time, anyway) by the many thousands of 
multi-million-dollar bluffside McMansions, stop-gap seawalls and concrete 
facades blown-onto the sandstone notwithstanding.

-- 
Dave Kruger
Astoria, OR
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From: Craig Jungers <crjungers_at_gmail.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Southern California Report
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 12:51:25 -0800
On Sun, Dec 27, 2009 at 11:07 AM, Dave Kruger <kdruger_at_pacifier.com> wrote:

>
> If the natives had had watercraft, I bet the padres would have used them.
> The natives lived a subsistence lifestyle in a climate and time when little
> contact with the ocean was needed, unlike the cultures to the north which
> depended on the sea for their subsistence.
>

I was greatly interested in the missions 30 years ago. There was little
mention of the natives other than their involvement in mission work. Last
week the tour included a fair representation of how the local residents
would have lived prior to the mission. And you're right.... subsistence
would be a pretty good descriptor. No complicated structures for them...
just a hut made of willow branches covered in salt marsh reeds. With metates
for grinding nuts. No mention of boats of any sort. Not a lot said by the
native descendant about seafood diets either.

The name (El Camino Real) made me think that it was a Spanish/Mexican
invention rather than a native American trade route. Or did the padres
simply wander up and down in search of native American population centers?
They certainly sited a couple of the Baja missions in remote areas (but at
least one, Loreto, near the sea).

It's interesting to wonder what spurs innovation in a culture. The Chinook
and other NW First Nations had access to trees that could be converted into
canoes by the simple expedient of burning and carving away the parts that
didn't look like a boat. The Greenland Inuit had no such luck. The SoCal
cultures certainly weren't well off as a people but looking towards the
water may have simply not occurred to them.

I know that if I were a friar traveling up and down the coast of California
(at least south of Point Conception) I'd prefer a kayak over a burro. I've
ridden both and the kayak is a LOT more comfortable.


Craig Jungers
Moses Lake, WA
www.nwkayaking.net
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From: Duane Strosaker <strosaker_at_yahoo.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Part 2-Southern California Report
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 13:55:03 -0800 (PST)
Craig,

If you want to learn more about the Southern California natives, you should stop by the natural history museum in Santa Barbara:

http://www.sbnature.org/research/anthro/chumash/daily.htm#Canoes

As you can see in the webpage above, they had many skills and crafts, including planked tomol canoes. They just weren't good at warfare, because before the Europeans came, they didn't have a need for it.

Duane
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From: Duane Strosaker <strosaker_at_yahoo.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Southern California Report
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 13:30:09 -0800 (PST)
Dave,

Actually, the Southern California natives used tomol canoes, which were planked, to get back and forth to all eight of the Channel Islands. The natives at the islands and along the coast relied heavily on the sea for sustenance. There are huge midden piles of abalone shells on all the islands, and they fished and traded. Dolphins were sacred. The missions ordered the natives off the islands and took their tomol canoes away from them. There is a story of some of the natives not liking mission life, steeling back a tomol canoe, and sneaking back to one of islands.

Duane


--- On Sun, 12/27/09, Dave Kruger <kdruger_at_pacifier.com> wrote:

> If the natives had had watercraft, I bet the padres would
> have used them. The natives lived a subsistence lifestyle in
> a climate and time when little contact with the ocean was
> needed, unlike the cultures to the north which depended on
> the sea for their subsistence.
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From: Dave Kruger <kdruger_at_pacifier.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Southern California Report
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 16:32:58 -0800
Duane Strosaker wrote:
> Dave,
> 
> Actually, the Southern California natives used tomol canoes, which were
> planked, to get back and forth to all eight of the Channel Islands. The
> natives at the islands and along the coast relied heavily on the sea for
> sustenance. There are huge midden piles of abalone shells on all the
> islands, and they fished and traded.

thanks, Duane.  Did not know of any of that.  The natives down where I grew 
up may not have done any longer distance seafaring, although I'm sure they 
hit the abalone hard, now that you mention it.  Mine were located very 
close to San Diego.  See: http://www.californiaprehistory.com/tribmap.html

Forgot to mention in the earlier post that some of the metates were found 
pretty far out, maybe up to a quarter mile, indicating long-term use of 
that spot.  If it eroded at the rate of an inch a year, or so (probab,ly a 
high rate), that would give a distance of about 830 feet. (10,000 years at 
1 inch each year) / (12 in per foot) = about 830 feet).  Not sure what sea 
level was 10,000 years ago.

That erosion rate might explain the absence of any middens in my memory, 
although the seashore was so heavily altered by 1955 maybe they were 
covered up or bulldozed away.

-- 
Dave Kruger
Astoria, OR
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