RE: [Paddlewise] bracing and power

From: Doug Lloyd <douglloyd_at_shaw.ca>
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 21:14:17 -0700
Rob, Craig, et al:

Not sure what all the fuss is about. There`s always going to be hold-outs
who prefer old school, though perhaps the vocal ones may serve a beneficial
purpose if they see a trend pushing too far the other way, or recognise
there`s missing components in the advocacy of a particular new school
argument - and jump up on roof tops to shout about it.
  
I saw a trend toward shorter overall paddler lengths some 10 to 15 years ago
around my neck of the woods but the reality of use was slow to be taken up
en mass as GP`s started to get all the attention and specialized clinics
(well, ones not inhabited by BCU brothers and sisters). As my boat of choice
at the time was less responsive directionally than the performance touring
yaks my friends were starting to paddle and design, I continued to prefer a
compromised length which I may change when I get a newer, shorter playboat -
though 210 - 212 may be it for me. I still tend to prefer movements that are
more predictable and leveraged, where I can do things like reach over
textured water to extend my actions and orient my kayak where I want it. I
never did well with instant-reaction sports like boxing or martial arts, but
did excel at wrestling in school.

As for paddle choices, certainly Matt, when he ran his store with Cam,
always gave out good paddle-purchase advise - as well as sold paddles that
were up to his own standards. I still remember his advice about 10,000
strokes a day (thinking, ugh, he`s right) so keep your paddle light and make
sure the shaft is strong enough with blades durable enough too. He also
claimed that shorter blades with the same overall length (by comparison)
yielded more hand position space distally, which I always felt was good
advice (especially cranking my stiff Nordy around). I went out and bought a
carbon graphite paddle after that but it didn`t have the durability factor
to the blades. The lighter shaft I picked up for my main paddle also broke
too easily and the soft-dihedral, short bladed 215 I picked up back then got
lost in Tofino and I still need to replace that one once I figure out what I
really need and have the skill-set inclination for (in terms of final
overall length).

One fellow I paddled with a fair bit was playing with 205 lengths a long
time ago, with relatively small blades. He was truly a good all-around
paddler who rarely fatigued and had a certain grace and efficiency to his
boat control methodologies, such that I would say he was ahead of the curve
that Rob outlined so well. But I think my 220 combined with good size pumps
and my type of twitch-type muscles served me better for long days in heavy
weather but perhaps less well in rock gardens and playing in surf zones. Not
sure. Being a shorter guy, I should probably put more thought into this and
more experimentation. Whatever I do, it will be based on advantages I feel
benefit me to outweigh any disadvantages, and not because of current trends.
With shorter arms, I like some extra reach.

Dynamic stability defines somewhat differently for me, generally
encompassing a 360 degree field ability and isn`t a topic that I like to
broach here much as certain folks get so emotional about it on Paddlewise.
:-)

Finally, being either blasted onto a lee shore or perhaps the less desirable
- blown out to sea - are scenarios for both of which I have experienced in
extremis and are reasons I prefer a 60 degree feather with a paddle length
of at least 7 feet that allows me to really dig or pry in a sustained
fashion for my muscle type when my hands are asymmetrically placed from
centre shaft or dealing with an off-angle sustained gusts in already high
winds. I`m sure there are advantages to a short paddle length here too, but
one thing is for sure, my paddle combination and length (so far) has seen
through some of the worst predicaments imaginable.  

Cheers back.
Doug

Rob said:


I don't want to belabor the point or knock anyone's very personal 
equipment choices, as I said, you like what you like and that is the 
final word. I started kayaking back when my 240cm Werner Camano was the 
hot ticket and my Pacific Watersports Osprey was the be all and end 
all. I have a Derek Hutchinson designed Streamlyte Toksook, but as I'm 
a rebel without a cause and too lazy to invent one, I bought it at 
220cm and a 60 degree feather, not the recommended 240cm length and 90 
degree feather. I dislike dogma that can sometimes shame people into 
feeling they need to switch out equipment in favor of what is 
*current.* With that change comes a different technique that also needs 
to come along for the ride to work.

One of the best teachers of *paddle-paddle-paddle* is learning to surf 
river waves. All the folks, myself included, who use reactive strokes, 
stern rudders on the eddy line and similar defense only strokes 
inevitably miss the wave, float down stream in the funny water and 
continue bracing and beaver slapping and sometimes missing large eddies 
to cue back up for the wave. Positive strokes get you on the wave, they 
still correct your attitude and help you in a dynamic environment. 
Paddling defensively in a dynamic environment cedes control to the 
water. Relying on the paddle users longer lever may not be construed as 
ceding control always, however, in this discussion, it's primary 
attractions have been advertised as such. Dynamic stability uses water 
features, posture, cadence and your hull's control surfaces to aid 
this. Ask yourself one question: why are there people in whitewater who 
paddle class 5 with hand paddles if paddle length is so important? I'm 
well aware of my mere mortal status, they amaze me, too.

Cheers,

Rob G
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Received on Mon Jul 19 2010 - 21:14:18 PDT

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