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From: Robert Carter <revkayak_at_aptalaska.net> subject: [Paddlewise] Gliding Through the Starlight of Heaven and Earth Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 18:27:42 -0800 · This archive was generated by hypermail 2.4.0 : Thu Aug 21 2025 - 16:33:54 PDT

Gliding Through the Starlight of Heaven and Earth

The Wrangell Narrows

DJ stands in the door of her rustic cabin and waves goodbye as I walk 
out into the Alaska night trailed by three of her grandchildren. In two 
days she will turn a young and adventurous 87! DJ and I have a date 
every year when I paddle down to her family cabin and celebrate her 
birthday. Tonight hours of sitting around the table and trading stories 
sadly ends and it is time for me to head home. Now I carefully walk down 
the beach dodging foot tangling kelp, and toe busting barnacle encrusted 
rocks. There where I left it at high tide sits my trusty Arluk III its 
green hull almost invisible in the night. I load my boat under a barrage 
of questions from the grandchildren. "How will you see? Aren't you 
afraid? What's that?'What's it for?" I answer each question with joyful 
patience.

Tides. That why I am leaving her cabin under the stars. Her cabin sits 
in Beecher Pass located off of the swift Wrangell Narrows of Southeast 
Alaska. The Narrows divide the islands of Mitkof and Kupreanof. The fast 
flowing tides rip through the narrow channels dictates the times of 
passage for kayaks and other slow boats. Beginning at Papkes Landing, 
the mid-point of the Narrows, I left just as the high tide peaked at 
4:20 pm and rode the falling tide to DJ's. Now in the growing darkness 
at 10: 25pm the flood tide slowly begins to reach DJ's gooey beach.

By the way when I say "gooey" I am not talking about your everyday 
slippery mud but the gooiest muck in the whole wide world! Slicker than 
snot, slip sliding, boot sucking, fall on your butt mud. Guaranteed to 
make you do the "Flamingo Dance".

The what?

"The Flamingo dance" is a specialty of Southeast Alaska. It happens when 
one of your feet sinks deep into the mud and as you try to pull your 
foot up your boot slides off. Now you find yourself standing with one 
foot in the air while your other foot sinks deeper in the mud. You try 
to carefully aim your foot to reenter the boot but at the last second 
you miss and your free foot buries in the mud. You then pull it out and 
utter the famous words "where did my damn sock go"? Guess what, the fun 
has only just begun! You notice that in all you're gyrating your other 
foot has sunk above your boot top. Then a slight gust of wind hits and 
slowly you fall on your butt into the mud. It is enough to make a 
preacher cuss. Trust me on that one.

I carry my boat down to the water's edge, no easy task in this slime. I 
turn my headlight off to let eyes adjust to the night. I climb into my 
kayak, push off and feel the tide grasp my hull and slowly carry me 
North East. I paddle to mid channel and drift a bit under the stars.

I look up at the canopy of the heavens strewn with the light of a 
million fiery stars. The silky Milky Way slithers like a serpent across 
the blackness. The Big Dipper points to Polaris the polar star that 
leads me home. The moon hides beneath the mountain. Jupiter hovers 
bright on the Southeast horizon.

Suddenly a trail of fire streaks across the sky blazing in glory for a 
moment then disappearing behind the mountains. A remnant of the Perseid 
meteor shower. This late summer meteor shower has been observed for 
about 2000 years, with the earliest information coming from the Far 
East. Some Catholics refer to the Perseids as the "tears of St. 
Lawrence", since August 10 is the date of that saint's martyrdom. 
Tonight fire falls from the sky!

I begin to paddle. Beecher Pass flows before me a dark band of water 
only distinguishable because the shore and surrounding mountains are 
much darker. Still I have no problem finding my way. Once my eyes adjust 
I find I have enough light to see the course of the water before me.

Another meteor hurls across the sky breaking up into small blazing 
fragments as it plunges through the night.

Carried by the tail of comet <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comet> 
Swift-Tuttle <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swift-Tuttle> I wonder how 
long has this traveler looped around the sun? What deep mysteries of 
space has it seen? Millions even billions of years hurling with 
unimaginable speed through the cold dark void of space. A fragment of 
the Big Bang perhaps, a relic from the very beginning of all things? As 
old as time itself, only now to die in a blaze of glory in the night sky 
of this third rock from the sun.

"Whoosh"

My pondering of mystery now floods with wonder. To my left a Harbor 
Porpoise rises, breathes deep then falls beneath the water. Though I 
cannot see her she becomes my companion upon the tide.

I study the sky and see the Big Dipper overhead. I am reminded of the 
folk song "Follow the Drinking Gourd". Sung by the slaves of America's 
dark past it was an indication that the Underground Railroad was ready 
to help more slaves escape to freedom in the North. Taken at face value, 
the "drinking gourd" refers to the hollowed out gourd used by slaves and 
other rural Americans as a water dipper. However the "drinking gourd" 
reference reminded slaves that the two end stars of the Dipper pointed 
to the North Star. The song taught the slaves that to be free they 
should travel under the cover of night and follow that star. Tonight 
that same the light of those ancient stars guides me home.

I near Keene Island and the current picks up as the channel narrows. 
Suddenly black undulating shapes appear in the water ahead! Kelp beds! 
Long thick strands of Bull Horn Kelp tangle and wave menacing before me. 
Looming out of the darkness these black inky grasping fingers defy even 
my quickest reactions and I ride up on the kelp again and again. I give 
up and just paddle hard to get through them.

Slowly they let go of their grasp and set me free. I turn North by 
memory. I don't want to turn on GPS and lose my night vision in its 
glow. I begin to see more and more channel markers. This section of the 
Narrows makes tricky navigation for the fishing boats, cruise ships, 
ferry's and other boats that pass here. Ahead it looks like a Christmas 
light parade.

I look up to see more meteors streak across the sky as if the stars 
themselves were falling to earth. I glance down into the water and see 
star light burst below me! At my bow two bluish waves glow as the sharp 
bow of my boat cuts through the black waters. Each time my paddle hits 
the water a splash of light dances and swirls. As I bring my paddle 
forward water droplets fall and explode in lightlets upon the dark 
waters. I enjoy flinging my paddle blade and tossing the glowing 
droplets ahead, a lousily paddle technique but fun.

My scientific brain says phosphorescent, high concentrations of 
bioluminescent organisms. The child in me says "magic". I paddle in the 
midst of enchanted waters. My bow creates light out of darkness. My 
paddle pulls through holy light. I fling my paddle and toss wonder. A 
meteor streak through the sky above! I paddle below and upon the stars! 
I ride the tide through the light of the Heavens and the earth.

"Whoosh" my porpoise companion reemerges by my side. Do you use these 
lights to fish? Does your prey swimming through the water light the way 
for your next meal?

"Whoosh" comes the reply.

As quickly as the lights appeared they disappear into the black waters. 
I paddle hard trying to stir the light up again but the waters remain dark.

Then out of the dark forest dark comes a deep howl. Starting low then 
rising to a bold crescendo a lone wolf calls out to the night. To whom 
do you sing? Do you search for a mate to easy your loneliness? Perhaps 
you have a mate who nurses your pups at the den? Maybe you call to your 
pack hunting restlessly in the deep forest? I listen but the wolf falls 
as silent as the stars.

A blue heron croaks out a raspy call, perhaps startled by the wolf.

"Whoosh"

I ride the tide of the wonders of the night.

Midnight. Some would call me a fool for being here on these fast tidal 
waters in the dark night. Why? The answer is simple. On this night as 
wolves howl and the skies blaze with ancient travelers the sheer joy and 
wonder of these unique wilderness moments far outweigh the risks.

I take risks yes but I am no fool. I run outside of the channel markers 
to avoid any boat threading through the narrows. I certainty do not wish 
to be a "did we just hit something" moment for a boater. I heighten my 
concentration. There are a couple reefs lurking on this side of the 
Narrows. I focus on the water. I scan the horizon.

I can make out the mountains as they are outlined by the stars. However 
I worry about things much closer than the mountains. I see the light 
flashing several feet above the water. Then as I near I hear the rushing 
water and realize that this "guiding light" sits atop cold hard steel 
posts. I tell myself to concentrate when suddenly I find myself in the 
midst of an explosion of bioluminescent creatures dancing about me. 
Mesmerized like a child by the lights of a Christmas tree I play with 
these creatures of light. I twist my paddle blade through the water 
watching the whirlpools of light dance in the black water. I watch the 
dreamlike light ride my bow wake.

All at once a dark shape rises up out of the water! Yikes! Rocks! I 
rudder hard with my paddle but it is too late.

Crunch! Ouch! "Welcome fool to Colorado Reef!" I totally did not see 
that coming! Talk about a wakeup call! "Stay alert!" I remind myself.

I cautiously paddle alongside the reef trying to find deeper waters. In 
the depth of the dark waters eerie lights erupt then dart out of my 
path! Skates I guess. These flounder like fish love shallow muddy 
waters. I watch fascinated as they glide out of my path creating long 
luminescent trails through the water. In all my miles upon the sea this 
truly is one of the most beautiful and amazing things I have ever seen. 
Dozens of bluish streaks dart through the inky water painting a surreal 
picture of life in the sea.

The water deepens and the skates disappear into the dark depths. Wonder 
crosses our paths with such fleeting glory that unless one is looking 
intensity it will be missed. Wonder lives a short life out here but 
thankfully the memories linger.

"Whoosh"

My Porpoise friend surfaces and welcoming me back to the deep water.

Red and green lights hover in the sky. The waters stir loudly. I am in 
the narrowest of the Narrows. Stone channel markers pass amid rushing 
and swirling waters. The powerful tide angry at being squeezed by the 
narrow channel churns tumbles and rumbles in fierce protest. Over head 
two meteors race in fiery paths across the Heavens. I am gripped by this 
moment as strongly as I feel the tide grasp my kayak. I fly upon the 
dark tides with the lights of bioluminescent creatures below and the 
blazing stars of the heaven above. Tonight I ride these wild waters of 
light above and below with joy and passion. In the midst of these Holy 
lights I am carried forth in wonder, and joy!
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