Re: [Paddlewise] Towing

From: hooligan <pdaligan_at_javanet.com>
Date: Wed, 07 Apr 1999 21:25:20 -0400
<Bill Leonhardt wrote:
 I would like to invite the experienced people on the list to comment
on the towing process.  Equipment, technique, what to do and, maybe more
importantly, what NOT to do.>


                             a longish post

Hi Bill,
I think I'm safe in predicting  you are going to be overwhelmed by  posts on
this subject. A lot of this is rehashing well tried methods but it does no harm
to air them once more.
Here's what works for me.
I use a twofold system both waist and boat mounted which gives me speed of
deployment in the short term and ease of towing in the long term. A prime
consideration is 'how quick can I rid myself of this tow system' so an
effective and foolproof  release is paramount. Bear in mind, for instance, that
a waist belt may invert on one's body making it near impossible to reach the
quick release. One good reason for carrying a knife that's easy to hand. A
velcro fastening has it's advantages given that it can be ripped off when
things go awry.
I make my own  which costs a fraction of the retail using pretty much standard
components: i.e. Webbing belt, quick release dive buckle, line pouch, a
stainless steel ring  and a salt resistant carabiner.( Oh yeah, clear it with
your partner before you use the sewing machine for heavy duty work !). Optional
extras such as a float are  useful as many a belt has disappeared below. I have
seen models with a 2nd. line perhaps for another tow or a throw line which
seems a little to cumbersome for me to deal with when the doodoo hits the fan.
The primary function is to remove the victim quickly from further danger. For
instance, towing victim plus boat outside the break line prior to rescue or
removing same from a localized  ledge break to calmer  waters  nearby. A short
assist to a tired paddler to clear a less than favorable area. Examples abound
but the criteria for me is slide alongside, withdraw krab, clip and go in the
shortest possible time. One's perceptions alter under duress and it's a
definite advantage to be able to carry out a rescue with the minimum of
screwing around. Can actually reach your clip, is the belt wedged under your
P.F.D., will the quick release be released inadvertently as you ferret around,
will the clip have a large enough gate to allow trouble free attachment and can
you do it with cold hands? Practice, praxes, praxes. How many rescues is
enough?
On the subject of boat attachment; I prefer to clip the declines ( 'cos we all
have declines on our boats..right ) rather than the bow or stern loops. The
advantage being if a deck fitting pulls out under the stress you have more to
work with but if the bow loop breaks you have to go in and reattach the tow.
I prefer not to tote a lot of line as I am trying to keep the system light,
lean and easy to deal with. 30' seems more than adequate.
The down side for the waist tow for me as a primary system is that all the
strain falls on the abdomen. A partner and I, in singles, once towed an empty
loaded double for 2 days which ranks with one of the more excruciating
experiences I care to remember.
O.K. the boat tow.
My preferred system was first introduced a number of  years ago by Howard
Jeff's, a B.C.U. Coach and all round good lad. I chain coil about 120' of
floating line down to a third of it's size complete with a length of (optional)
heavy duty bungee cord crimped in as a shock absorber. This gets stuffed into a
bag and velcro'd of bungee'd to the rear deck just behind the cockpit. The line
passes through the bag to a faired, centrally located just aft of the cockpit
as feasible, to a cam cleat fixed off to one side and within reach.The
hook/clip whatever can be packed in or out the bag and most times I simply
turn, reach back and rip the thing off the deck. I find it's easier to do that
than fiddle about unhooking the clip. I have day hatches on both my boats
angled to one side allowing the towing system to be fixed on the other leave
enough rope through the cleat which is enough to grab, tug and release the
system. Off it goes, bag and all.
I have never noticed any particular problems with split paddles being swept off
the rear deck although I habitually carry mine on the front. Chain coiling
allows one to vary the tow length depending on conditions. i.e. a head on or a
following sea . A head-on sea requires a shorter length which cuts down the
amount of rope drag through the water whilst a following sea requires enough
rope so the victim does not end up surfing onto your back deck.
I rarely paddle a ruddered boat so can't comment with any authority on how that
interferes with a boat mounted tow. It would be a pain to have the line
continually catch under the cable  but I'll leave that to others to comment on.

I urge any of you who are so interested to go out and practice with your
friends. It can be very entertaining mayhem more akin to the chariot scene in
Ben Hur !When you've done it in flat water go into the waves, into the rock
gardens, try a in line tow, try a husky tow.
An sometimes overlooked advantage of a good tow system is the stabilizing of a
rescue. It can be very useful to have a boat hook up and keep the whole rescue
pointed up wind or up current allowing the rescuers to concentrate on getting
people back in their boats.
Lastly, a theoretically risky tow I have used a good effect a couple of times.
I outfit my boats with a short paddle leash a couple of feet long maybe with a
big paddle carabiner on the business end and the other just clipped in to a
deck line. I've  used this as a contact tow particularly with sea sick victims
who are unable or cannot be trusted to stay upright. I clip in to their deck
line so they are positioned immediately behind my cockpit hopefully allowing me
to reach over their bow and paddle. They, of course, can lean on my boat .It
works pretty well but brings up the problem of release.
It's late and I didn't realize how opinionated I have become!
Over to you.
Hooli

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Received on Wed Apr 07 1999 - 18:26:37 PDT

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