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From: Thomas Unger <unger_at_tumtum.com>
subject: [Paddlewise] Trip destinations in SE Alaska
Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 19:15:53 +0000
Folks,

I've been looking for a good place for a three week trip somewhere along
the pacific northwest coast.  I have not yet found the perfect place and
was hoping for some advice.  Here's what I've been looking for:

 o somewhere north of vancouver island.  Canada is cheaper, but 
   the coast in SE Alaska seems more suitable.

 o Someplace that has more protected shore line.  Occasional or
moderately
   exposed coast line is OK, but not any outside coast.

 o Somewhere that feels remote and of wilderness.

What I'd most like is to take the ferry to one place then spend three
weeks paddling to another place, and catch the ferry home.  But I don't
know enough much about conditions in SE Alaska and am having trouble
getting information.  What parts are privately owned and camping not
permitted?  What parts are currently being logged and would be
unappealing?  What parts are more pleasing?

I'm currently looking at a trip to Kuiu island.  I'd like to make this a
loop trip by paddling around the north side, then portaging across the
middle.   But I hear that there is logging activity on the whole north
part of the island.  Would it be a very unappealing part of the trip?  

Any other suggestions?

Thanks,

Tom Unger
unger_at_tumtum.com

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From: Philip Torrens <skerries_at_hotmail.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Trip destinations in SE Alaska
Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 15:53:24 PDT
Alright, I'm biased as a patriotic Canuck, but have you considered BC's 
Inside Passage? Route options allow for exposed or sheltered paddling, there 
are friendly natives who speak both English and American, and best of all, a 
totally kayak-friendly ferry (they even have the capablity to land and lauch 
you right from the boat, and will do pick up and drop-offs at non-scheduled 
stops by prior arrangment). Even just using their scheduled ports of call 
you can do wonderful "open gate" trips without having to return to where you 
left. Having been up in this area on a couple of multi-week trips, I can 
hartily recommend it. Check out
http://www.bcferries.bc.ca/schedules/discovery/dcp-20000613-20000906.html  
for more info.

Cheers,
Philip T.


>From: Thomas Unger <unger_at_tumtum.com>
>To: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net
>Subject: [Paddlewise] Trip destinations in SE Alaska
>Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 19:15:53 +0000
>
>
>Folks,
>
>I've been looking for a good place for a three week trip somewhere along
>the pacific northwest coast.  I have not yet found the perfect place and
>was hoping for some advice.  Here's what I've been looking for:
>
>  o somewhere north of vancouver island.  Canada is cheaper, but
>    the coast in SE Alaska seems more suitable.
>
>  o Someplace that has more protected shore line.  Occasional or
>moderately
>    exposed coast line is OK, but not any outside coast.
>
>  o Somewhere that feels remote and of wilderness.
>
>What I'd most like is to take the ferry to one place then spend three
>weeks paddling to another place, and catch the ferry home.  But I don't
>know enough much about conditions in SE Alaska and am having trouble
>getting information.  What parts are privately owned and camping not
>permitted?  What parts are currently being logged and would be
>unappealing?  What parts are more pleasing?
>
>I'm currently looking at a trip to Kuiu island.  I'd like to make this a
>loop trip by paddling around the north side, then portaging across the
>middle.   But I hear that there is logging activity on the whole north
>part of the island.  Would it be a very unappealing part of the trip?
>
>Any other suggestions?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Tom Unger
>unger_at_tumtum.com
>
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From: Thomas Unger <unger_at_tumtum.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Trip destinations in SE Alaska
Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 19:40:22 +0000
Philip,

Thanks.  I've been eyeing that middle section of the BC coast.  "Kayak
Routes of the PNW Coast" describes the area around Bella Bella (the
Hakai rec area).  But I've not yet had an obvious, desirable trip leap
out at me.

One thing I'm trying to get a feel for is now much distance I'd like to
cover.  I think that I'm likely to be an above average sort of paddler. 
In sailing trips that I've done I generally find that I was able to
cover more ground than I had planned.  And I get satisfaction from long
days covering "ground".  So, not knowing the intricacies of an area my
tendency is to plan a trip that covers ground.  Then, at the end of the
trip I'll say "gee, that was great, but next time I'm going to spend
more time just in X."

So I didn't see a trip here because:

 o the Hakai rec area is mostly outer islands, perhaps too exposed 
   for this trip.

 o I couldn't get much information about access and scenery in the more
   inside passages.  In the research that I've done so far I've come
   across the fact that there are some first nation tribes that don't
   want visitors.  Don't want to show up in the wrong place out of
ignorance.

 o The region seems small for a three week trip.  Would paddling north
   through grham reach make a nice trip?  "Kayak Routes" says that this 
   the Kitasoo nation region and, while they are welcoming to visitors, 
   they have not developed a tourist policy so no information about
   that region was provided.  

 o Paddling all the way to Port Hardy seemed too far and there is no
   intermediate ferry stop.

But there are lots of things to recommend the BC coast:  easier to get
to, less expensive, more frequent ferries, and friendly natives being a
few.  I would appreciate suggestions.  Particularly, what would it be
like to dink around Bella Bella for a while, then paddle north to some
point and get picked up by the south bound Prince Rupert to Port Hardy
ferry?

Thanks,

Tom.




Philip Torrens wrote:
> 
> Alright, I'm biased as a patriotic Canuck, but have you considered BC's
> Inside Passage? Route options allow for exposed or sheltered paddling, there
> are friendly natives who speak both English and American, and best of all, a
> totally kayak-friendly ferry (they even have the capablity to land and lauch
> you right from the boat, and will do pick up and drop-offs at non-scheduled
> stops by prior arrangment). Even just using their scheduled ports of call
> you can do wonderful "open gate" trips without having to return to where you
> left. Having been up in this area on a couple of multi-week trips, I can
> hartily recommend it. Check out
> http://www.bcferries.bc.ca/schedules/discovery/dcp-20000613-20000906.html
> for more info.
>
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From: David Seng <David_at_wainet.com>
subject: RE: [Paddlewise] Trip destinations in SE Alaska
Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 11:09:26 -0800
> From: Thomas Unger [mailto:unger_at_tumtum.com]
> Sent: Monday, May 17, 1999 11:16 AM

> I've been looking for a good place for a three week trip 
> somewhere along
> the pacific northwest coast.  I have not yet found the 
> perfect place and
> was hoping for some advice.  Here's what I've been looking for:
> 
>  o somewhere north of vancouver island.  Canada is cheaper, but 
>    the coast in SE Alaska seems more suitable.
> 
>  o Someplace that has more protected shore line.  Occasional or
> moderately
>    exposed coast line is OK, but not any outside coast.
> 
>  o Somewhere that feels remote and of wilderness.
> 
> What I'd most like is to take the ferry to one place then spend three
> weeks paddling to another place, and catch the ferry home.  
> But I don't
> know enough much about conditions in SE Alaska and am having trouble
> getting information.  What parts are privately owned and camping not
> permitted?  What parts are currently being logged and would be
> unappealing?  What parts are more pleasing?
> 
> I'm currently looking at a trip to Kuiu island.  I'd like to 
> make this a
> loop trip by paddling around the north side, then portaging across the
> middle.   But I hear that there is logging activity on the whole north
> part of the island.  Would it be a very unappealing part of 
> the trip?


    SE Alaska (Southeast) is definitely going to meet with your desire for
remote wilderness!  Actually, a 30 minute paddle away from just about any
town in Southeast is going to put you in wilderness.
  The Southeast Marine Highway (state ferry system) is a very cost effective
way to travel up here (you definitely can't drive!).  Check out
www.juneau.com or www.state.ak.us for links to info on the ferry system.
  Be aware that areas that look fairly protected on a map can be _very_
rough and hazardous to paddle for days at a time.  Chatham Strait, on the
west side of Kuiu can be a challenging piece of water.  
  Most of Southeast is part of the Tongass National Forest - there's really
very little privately owned land outside of the "metropolitan" centers.  The
reality of things is that you can camp just about anywhere you can find a
safe landing - assuming that a bear doesn't have that section of beach
already staked out.
  I don't know what information you have about trails on Kuiu, but assume
that you must know of one if you're planning a portage across it.  For me
the mere concept of trying to bushwhack several miles or more through
typical Southeast terrain sounds like a masochistic nightmare!  Doing it
with a kayak on your back......  Without knowing the exact specifics of the
area I would predict knee deep mud, steep terrain, the ubiquitous devil's
club, etc.  The nice thing is that you don't have to be concerned about
poisonous snakes.
  There are some areas of Southeast that are logged, I've not been down to
Kuiu, and don't know of anyone offhand that has, so I can't comment on that,
but on the ferry trips I've taken around Southeast (Kethchikan, Wrangell,
Petersburg, Sitka, Juneau, Haines/Skagway) I've seen some logged areas, but
nothing that would put me off very much.  Paddle around the next corner and
it's gone.
  You might want to look into paddling in Misty Fjords down near Ketchikan -
it's a gorgeous area!  A nice three week trip might be to take the ferry
from Bellingham to Sitka and then paddling up along the coast of Baranof
Island and then cutting over to Peril Strait and the up the coast of
Chichagof Island (stop at Tenakee Springs for the hot springs), Pick your
day for the crossing of Chatham Strait, and then up around then north end of
Admiralty Island and over to Juneau.  It would be a long trip, but if you're
looking to do some serious paddling, and excellent one.
  Another nice trip would be paddling from Wrangell or Petersburg to Juneau
or From Ketchikan up to Wrangell/Petersburg.  I would plan a trip paddling
generally from South to North to take advantage of the prevailing winds
(generally southerly).
  If you want to paddle out of some of the smaller villages (anything other
than the towns I mentioned above you'll have to plan carefully, because the
ferries only service the smaller villages on a limited basis.
  Any trip that takes you far from the major towns will generally put you
out of range for help via VHF unless there happens to be a fishing boat
nearby.
  If I can provide more specific info please contact me directly unless you
feel it would also benefit the list.

Dave Seng
Juneau, Alaska


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From: Philip Torrens <skerries_at_hotmail.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Trip destinations in SE Alaska
Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 13:34:45 PDT
>From: Thomas Unger <unger_at_tumtum.com>

>Thanks.  I've been eyeing that middle section of the BC coast. SNIP  I didn't see a trip here because:
>
>  o the Hakai rec area is mostly outer islands, perhaps too exposed
>    for this trip.
>
>  o I couldn't get much information about access and scenery in the more
>    inside passages.  In the research that I've done so far I've come
>    across the fact that there are some first nation tribes that don't
>    want visitors.  Don't want to show up in the wrong place out of
>ignorance.

Chat with the band members in Bella Bella - there will always be many of them on the ferry, returning home. I've never had a problem or been made to feel unwelcome.

>
>  o The region seems small for a three week trip.  Would paddling north
>    through grham reach make a nice trip?

The furthest north I've been on the mainland is around the outside of Price Island. I do remember, because we signed in with Prince Rupert traffic as we were crossing Milbanke Sound, that Graham Reach seems to be the route of choice for cruise ships, fishing boats, tugs, and other shipping, presumably because it's sheltered. So, perhaps like me, you don't like sharing confined waters with the big boys!

>  o Paddling all the way to Port Hardy seemed too far and there is no
>    intermediate ferry stop.
>
Particularly, what would it be
>like to dink around Bella Bella for a while, then paddle north to some
>point and get picked up by the south bound Prince Rupert to Port Hardy
>ferry?

I think you're mixing up two different ferries here: the "Queen of Chiliwack" is the "cruise ship" type that's set up to launch and recover kayaks at sea, and that will make request stops, but it goes no further North than Bella Bella and Ocean Falls. The "Queen of the North" goes all the way to Prince Rupert, but makes no stops and is not equipped to launch or recover kayaks at sea. If you go north of Bella Bella, you'd be committed to paddling to Prince Rupert and walking on board the ferry back from there.
That said, I'd say there was plenty of coastline and passages to explore for three weeks in the islands west and south of Bella Bella, providing you're happy to thread back and forth (that is, go south down one channel, back north along another, and so on), rather than having some impressive "straight line" distance.

Happy paddling,
Philip

Philip


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