Some Notes on Klepper Self Rescue Practice - Peter Rattenbury and Peter Osman Here are some notes on our attempts to practise self rescue techniques in realistic conditions. The boats were both expedition Klepper Aerius singles. One kayaker had 3 years, the other 1 years experience. We arranged for a small motor boat to be nearby in case of difficulty and told the coast guard what we were up to. Safety equipment was a VHF maritime radio, EPIRB, paddle float reentry system, spare paddles, flotation bags, sponges, electric pumps and a collapsible bailing bucket. PFD's. wetsuits and cags were worn. On the day the wind was about 10knots, the swell was 2m and there was a slight chop on the swell. Whistle tests We tried two tin whistles and a Fox whistle by blowing into the wind. The Fox whistle was the best, being audible to about 300m, which coincided with the limit of visibility for sighting another kayak in a 2m swell (photo available). This also was about as far as we could reliably see the motor boat. There are whistles and whistles! Towing tests Two kinds of tether were tried, one in a bag and one on a reel. The reason for the reel was to try a system, which allowed the tether to lengthen or shorten as need/conditions arise. For example, towing a seasick paddler on a long rope could be risky. A short tether would allow the sick paddler to more easily alert the tower. However, this first version of the reel tether tangled much more than the one in a bag. It should be possible to get it to work easily, but a fair bit of redesign is needed. The bag system worked well but would have been better with Velcro patches to store the ends of the tow line on the outside of the bag. Another improvement would have been to attach the bag to the towee end of the line so as not to keep losing the bag overboard! We concluded that tow ropes need to be simple and opined that any style of rudder system was likely to cause a problem with tangles. Two kinds of anchor point for the tether were tried, one at the side of the cockpit and one on a dive belt around the waist. Both worked fine.The tether fastened to the waist belt had about a metre of bungee cord attached between two loops in the line spaced at 2m. There was no sensation of tugging during any of the tows - this system of shock absorption worked well. We each estimated that more than one hours towing would probably seriously drain our energy reserves Self Rescue The self-rescue we practised was the 'cowboy' method. i.e sit astride the stern, inch forward and then enter the cockpit. (Ref Folding Kayaker June 99 issue) The stern of the Aerius Klepper 1 rides low in the water (photo available) and is consequently easy to mount, even with a rudder fitted. One Klepper had a tuck under spray deck with a detachable small opening skirt, the other had a one piece spray deck/skirt attached to the cockpit via Velcro. I've heard various criticisms of this spray deck along the lines that it tends to leak (it does) that it will not stand up to heavy waves (haven't found any waves heavy enough to detach it yet but haven't been out in really rough water). The spray deck with the detachable small opening skirt required that the feet be placed in the cockpit before the backside. Consequently the centre of gravity was high throughout the reentry and combined with the swell this made self rescue difficult. On the first occasion it worked first time, on the 2nd occasion it worked after 3 attempts, on the 3rd occasion it worked after 6 attempts but left the kayaker nauseous and tired. With the one piece spray deck/skirt it was possible to move forward, drop backside into the cockpit and then pull in the legs, maintaining a low centre of gravity throughout. It worked first time, was straightforward and it would be hard to imagine a faster self rescue method, other than a successful 1st attempt roll. With both spray decks the first attempts at reentry were seriously encumbered by material on the rear of the kayak. In one kayak there was netting, which entangled in a whistle, in the other kayak there was a foam paddle float. While neither of these prevented the self-rescue they slowed us down to an unacceptable level and would have been a real nuisance in a heavy sea. Personal tethers One of our goals was to try out a personal tether (a plastic coiled surfboard leash). It was attached at the cord end to the center top of the rib behind the seat and via a Velcro band to my wrist. The wrist attachment seemed to provide maximum manoeuvrability for minimum leash length (minimum risk of entanglement). It took practice to quickly remove the band and this would have been easier if tags were attached to locate the edges. There were no problems with entanglement on wet exiting but there was some difficulty flipping the kayak upright. Normally I lean over the hull of the overturned boat and flip it toward me. With a personal tether it was necessary to flip the kayak upright by pushing it from the side nearest me. Forgot until too late that it was necessary to reach right under the boat to the other side of the cockpit to achieve this. (Should have read Ralph's postings more carefully). Came out of this exercise convinced that a carefully designed system of personal tethering would not tangle or cause problems and that a bit more practice was all that was needed. Nausea The motor boat skipper and one of us became slightly seasick (for the 1st time in 20 years) after repeated self-rescue attempts. It was an eye opener to experience how debilitating even mild sea-sickness is, how quickly balance is destroyed. The paddlefloat would be really useful when alone and seasick. Extra sponsons even better. Comparing notes with other seasick paddlers it seems that the common denominators were a big swell and a fair chop; stopping to drift and getting knocked around; and fiddling with gear. Anyone who paddles with us and gets seasick will get lots of empathy! Final observations and questions The amount of water taken on during this training wasn't excessive and tended to stabilise the boat, because of the sponsons. The electric water pumps worked very well. Clearly more self-rescue training is needed, preferable in heavier seas. In particular we need to try paddle float re-entries under the same circumstances. We also want to try the assisted rescue where the rescuer lifts the upside down kayak on his deck and the rescuee assists by clinging to the stern of the boat. The boat is supposedly drained and the rescuee is assisted back. We don't know if this will work with a high volume boat like the Klepper because of the weight of water? Any opinions out there? Another big question - would the one piece spray deck be adequate in seas that could tip a Klepper single over? If so then combining this spray deck with the cowboy self rescue method seems to provide a very fast, straight forward rescue - comments from more experienced paddlers would be greatly appreciated. The safety precautions seemed adequate - I wonder what we missed! Finally the exercise reinforced the necessity for us to continue to practice rescue techniques in the conditions which put us at risk. Peter's O & R *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Hi- that was informative and helpful; thanks! Re towing, what did you find to be the useful range of tow rope lengths? And I couldn't tell whether your anchor points referred to the tower or towee. Does the tower's end have to pass through something on the very end of his stern? Ditto for the bow end of the towee (what if he's too sick to steer his boat)? If the only place you can carry a spare paddle and be able to reach it from the cockpit is behind you, what would you do- carry it there but remove it if you capsize? I am now considering stowing it in the boat. Downside to that? Thanks again. Slainte! e Elaine Harmon - eilidh_at_dc.seflin.org - eharmon_at_cs.miami.edu *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
A couple of thoughts: --The two Peters mentioned the possibility of tow lines getting tangled at the rear of the towing boat. Klepper for years has maintained that the flexible flag post that comes with each boat would make a good run-through point to avoid that. For the Klepper-deprived masses, Kleppers have a flag post about 8-10 inches high that screws into a threaded hole in the rudder support bracket. Apparently in international European travel along waters like the Danube, you are supposed to be flying a national flag. The flag post has a spring-flexible base. Supposedly, you tie a loop of line through the small hole provided for the flag tie and run the tow line through it. It keeps the tow line above and away from the rudder and also avoides the line wrapping around the stern as it sometimes can. I have never tried this use of the flag post. --I am surprised at the thought of tethering one's self to your boat instead of tethering the paddle or you to your paddle, which are more common approaches to tethering. Interesting that it works. You used a coiled surfboard leash; I am glad to see it did not entangle you. The same is true for the coiled jetski cutoff switch leash I use to tether my paddle to the boat. I have had one guru go into a near rage when he saw my jetski-origin tether saying it would entangle me but it hasn't. I think sturdy, coiled tethers are far superior to the bungee cord or regular cord tether...they keep out of the way because they are coiled. And even if one gets around your wrist by accident it will neither knot up tight on you (like would cord) or stretch to a binding grip on you as might bungee tethers. --The two piece spraydeck/skirt arrangement on Kleppers can be problematic to re-enter in the singles. The cockpit hole in the spraydeck is small and flexible and so it takes practice to re-enter. It isn't as much of a problem in the double because two people are involved in the self rescue. The single is more conducive to a paddle float rescue when that type spraydeck/skirt is used but you could still do the cowboy rescue approach. The key is to just sit on the material on the back of the spraydeck while you are getting your legs in; it won't tear or pull free as it is anchored down quite well. Take advantage of the flexibility of the cockpit hole in the spraydeck when you try to re-enter. Don't forget that you can raise the front side with the tip of a foot to change the hole's configuration from flat/horizontal to an opening with the front end pitched upward so that it resembles the cockpit on some of the Greenland boats which have the front higher than the back. Thanks for going through the efforts of checking out how things work in 6 foot seas and chop. As for seasickness, lay off of the Foster's and bangers prior to going out practicing :-). ralph diaz -- ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Ralph Diaz . . . Folding Kayaker newsletter PO Box 0754, New York, NY 10024 Tel: 212-724-5069; E-mail: rdiaz_at_ix.netcom.com "Where's your sea kayak?"----"It's in the bag." ----------------------------------------------------------------------- *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
In a message dated 9/9/99 10:45:59 AM Eastern Daylight Time, rdiaz_at_ix.netcom.com writes: << lay off of the Foster's and bangers prior to going out practicing :-). >> Ralph, I'm impressed!! You actually know what bangers are. For the uninitiated: bangers and mash are mashed potatoes with sausages. Coincidentally, today's Miami Herald had a recipe for Toad in the Hole. In a nutshell: you bake the sausages, and then pour a batter (it's a an English pancake batter) over it and it puffs up as it bakes. Basically, it's Yorkshire Pudding with sausages in it. Pour gravy over and enjoy! Sandy Kramer Miami *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
-----Original Message----- From: rdiaz_at_ix.netcom.com <rdiaz_at_ix.netcom.com> >A couple of thoughts: > >--The two Peters mentioned the possibility of tow lines getting tangled >at the rear of the towing boat. Klepper for years has maintained that >the flexible flag post that comes with each boat would make a good >run-through point to avoid that. > >For the Klepper-deprived masses, Kleppers have a flag post about 8-10 >inches high that screws into a threaded hole in the rudder support >bracket. Apparently in international European travel along waters like >the Danube, you are supposed to be flying a national flag. The flag >post has a spring-flexible base. Supposedly, you tie a loop of line >through the small hole provided for the flag tie and run the tow line >through it. It keeps the tow line above and away from the rudder and >also avoides the line wrapping around the stern as it sometimes can. I >have never tried this use of the flag post. The problem with running the towline through anything fastened near the stern (or tied near the stern) is that the towed kayak will need to be controlled by the towed paddler or it will yaw side to side and pull the stern of the towing kayak over to one side and then the other making control of the towing kayak far more difficult. The spring loaded mast of the Klepper might reduce this a little because it would allow greater yaw before the stern was pulled over (but I don't think you would find it satisfactory and letting the towed boat yaw further might actually mean more side force on the stern when the limits are finally reached). > >--I am surprised at the thought of tethering one's self to your boat >instead of tethering the paddle or you to your paddle, which are more >common approaches to tethering. Interesting that it works. If I was a solo paddler in high winds, I'd consider tethering myself to the kayak in case I capsized and failed to roll. Also I think it is much better to tether the paddle to the boat rather than to your wrist. That way if you have either the paddle or the boat in your grasp you still have the other necessary component to resuming paddling. > >You used a coiled surfboard leash; I am glad to see it did not entangle >you. The same is true for the coiled jetski cutoff switch leash I use >to tether my paddle to the boat. I have had one guru go into a near >rage when he saw my jetski-origin tether saying it would entangle me but >it hasn't. I think sturdy, coiled tethers are far superior to the >bungee cord or regular cord tether...they keep out of the way because >they are coiled. And even if one gets around your wrist by accident it >will neither knot up tight on you (like would cord) or stretch to a >binding grip on you as might bungee tethers. My experience with coiled tethers (and telephone cords) is that they tangle with themselves and sometimes this puts your paddle on a very short leash indeed. I don't see why a coiled tether wouldn't reach the end of its stretch at some point just like a shock cord and then possibly wrap tightly around some part of your body. Either a shock cord or a coiled tether is far less likely to entrap one as a non-stretchy cord. I use about a 30" tether of 3/16" shock cord that can stretch to twice its length or more (and a nylon hook). It stores wrapped around the middle of my paddle shaft where it is always quickly available. It is very lightweight, and opposed to the coiled kind, doesn't go clack, clack, clack on the deck with every stroke when in use. Also it never tangles with itself or drags in the water. Since it is tied to the paddle shaft it has a very secure attachment that I trust more than Velcro. Tie it tightly enough so it doesn't slide around on the shaft when you paddle but can be slid to one side should you want to--like maybe when doing a paddle-float rescue without detatching the tether. It is simple to make using under $2.00 worth of materials (about 3.5 feet of shock cord and a $.69 nylon hook. I push the cord through the nylon clip and tie a figure eight knot to stop it from pulling through the hole. I tie it on the paddle end with a bowline. Easy to do in advance for a two piece paddle but difficult to tie under tension to a one piece paddle (tight enough so it doesn't slide around). Matt Broze http://www.marinerkayaks.com *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Matt Broze wrote: > > -----Original Message----- > From: rdiaz_at_ix.netcom.com <rdiaz_at_ix.netcom.com> > > >A couple of thoughts: > > > >--The two Peters mentioned the possibility of tow lines getting tangled > >at the rear of the towing boat. Klepper for years has maintained that > >the flexible flag post that comes with each boat would make a good > >run-through point to avoid that. > > The problem with running the towline through anything fastened near the > stern (or tied near the stern) is that the towed kayak will need to be > controlled by the towed paddler or it will yaw side to side and pull the > stern of the towing kayak over to one side and then the other making control > of the towing kayak far more difficult. The spring loaded mast of the > Klepper might reduce this a little because it would allow greater yaw before > the stern was pulled over (but I don't think you would find it satisfactory > and letting the towed boat yaw further might actually mean more side force > on the stern when the limits are finally reached). Thanks for your insights on this regard yawing, etc. As I said, I never tried this; all I knew it as was a Klepper-sourced suggestion. > > > >--I am surprised at the thought of tethering one's self to your boat > >instead of tethering the paddle or you to your paddle, which are more > >common approaches to tethering. Interesting that it works. > > If I was a solo paddler in high winds, I'd consider tethering myself to the > kayak in case I capsized and failed to roll. Also I think it is much better > to tether the paddle to the boat rather than to your wrist. That way if you > have either the paddle or the boat in your grasp you still have the other > necessary component to resuming paddling. That has always been my approach, i.e. tethered paddle to deck setup. I think Lindemann tethered himself to his Klepper during his cross-Atlantic voyage, at least he did so during his daily wash-up swims. There is a risk of entanglement but the loss of one's boat while alone well out at sea would be a bigger problem. > > > >You used a coiled surfboard leash; I am glad to see it did not entangle > >you. The same is true for the coiled jetski cutoff switch leash I use > >to tether my paddle to the boat. I have had one guru go into a near > >rage when he saw my jetski-origin tether saying it would entangle me but > >it hasn't. I think sturdy, coiled tethers are far superior to the > >bungee cord or regular cord tether...they keep out of the way because > >they are coiled. And even if one gets around your wrist by accident it > >will neither knot up tight on you (like would cord) or stretch to a > >binding grip on you as might bungee tethers. > > My experience with coiled tethers (and telephone cords) is that they tangle > with themselves and sometimes this puts your paddle on a very short leash > indeed. I don't see why a coiled tether wouldn't reach the end of its > stretch at some point just like a shock cord and then possibly wrap tightly > around some part of your body. Either a shock cord or a coiled tether is far > less likely to entrap one as a non-stretchy cord. I have not found this to be so with the tether I use, which is a lightweight one that is used by jetskiers. It hooks between the jetskiers PFD and the kill switch on the jetski, so that if he were to fall off, the engine would automatically be cut off. I used the loop in mine, which is meant to hold the key, and placed my 2-paddle through it before putting my paddle together; it hardly slides at all on the shaft, staying put much better than the velcro used with the bungee tethers. The other end has the snap hook meant for tying to the jetskieers vest; I use it to attach to a deck D-ring. The snap hook is beefier and with a better opening gate than the standard bungee tether sold under the Perception and other names; it will even fit around the massive brass D-ring on the Nautiraid fore of the cockpit. The tether weighs less than the bungee ones available commercially, never snags on anything on my deck like my bungee one has. If I am not using it, it just seems to coil up out of the way while still hanging on the paddle; my wife doesn't like tethering but she does not complain about the jetski tether left on the paddle (she did about the bungee type if left on). I have tried seeing if it would entangle me or wrap around me; it doesn't seem to want to. Regular cord and bungee will however in my experience. > I use about a 30" tether > of 3/16" shock cord that can stretch to twice its length or more (and a > nylon hook). It stores wrapped around the middle of my paddle shaft where it > is always quickly available. It is very lightweight, and opposed to the > coiled kind, doesn't go clack, clack, clack on the deck with every stroke > when in use. My coil one doesn't do that. The official heavier coil type sold for kayaking probably does from how you describe your experience. > Also it never tangles with itself or drags in the water. My coil doesn't either. You should get one from West Marine and see for yourself. > Since > it is tied to the paddle shaft it has a very secure attachment that I trust > more than Velcro. Yes, the official Perception bungee tether uses velcro which I wouldn' have full trust in either. > Tie it tightly enough so it doesn't slide around on the > shaft when you paddle but can be slid to one side should you want to--like > maybe when doing a paddle-float rescue without detatching the tether. It is > simple to make using under $2.00 worth of materials (about 3.5 feet of shock > cord and a $.69 nylon hook. I push the cord through the nylon clip and tie a > figure eight knot to stop it from pulling through the hole. I tie it on the > paddle end with a bowline. Easy to do in advance for a two piece paddle but > difficult to tie under tension to a one piece paddle (tight enough so it > doesn't slide around). The coil I have would not work that well with a one piece paddle either but is real tight on the two piece; I slip it on prior to connecting the two piece paddle. Oh, I think they cost $5.99 if I recall correctly. ralph > *************************************************************************** > PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List > Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net > Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net > Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ > *************************************************************************** -- ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Ralph Diaz . . . Folding Kayaker newsletter PO Box 0754, New York, NY 10024 Tel: 212-724-5069; E-mail: rdiaz_at_ix.netcom.com "Where's your sea kayak?"----"It's in the bag." ----------------------------------------------------------------------- *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Matt Broze wrote: > ...<snip>... > If I was a solo paddler in high winds, I'd consider tethering myself to the > kayak in case I capsized and failed to roll. Excellent advice, since losing contact with your boat in these circumstances can be deadly. While I would hope that I could keep a grip on my boat (or tethered paddle) after a wet exit, I am not willing to bet my life on it. I do not paddle in high winds without my boat leash. I use two pieces of nylon webbing (one of which is bright red) connected together in the middle via a cam buckle. This provides a quick release. Pulling the end of the red strap releases the buckle. I also carry a knife in case of entanglement, and I remove the strap in the surf zone. The risk posed by the leash strikes me as much less than the alternative. Most folks are gambling that they will be able to hang on to their boat (or paddle), but that is not a gamble I am willing to take. Swimming after your boat in high winds is a losing proposition. Dan Hagen *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
This archive was generated by hypermail 2.4.0 : Thu Aug 21 2025 - 16:33:02 PDT