How does one securely lock a kayak to a roof rack. Running a cable through elastic deck straps just won't cut it. I have just started building a Pygmy and I will build something into it to attach to if I need to. Thanks in advance for your answers. Mike Hilt *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
mike hilt wrote: > > How does one securely lock a kayak to a roof rack. Running a cable through > elastic deck straps just won't cut it. I have just started building a Pygmy > and I will build something into it to attach to if I need to. Thanks in > advance for your answers. Make the bow endpour large enough to accommodate another hole and use that for the cable anchor -- just run it through and lock it to something solid. Every one will wonder about the extra hole -- decorate it to look like an eye ... -- Dave Kruger Astoria, OR *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
My Mariner has stainless steel U-bolts embeded bow and stern. The carry-handles are tied to them and they provide a place for lock or cable to go through. I can take some pics of them and email them to you, if you like. I can't understand why all boat builders don't do this. Defeating locks and cables is another subject. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "mike hilt" <duckman_at_peak.org> To: <PaddleWise_at_lists.intelenet.net> Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2000 11:21 PM Subject: [Paddlewise] locking a kayak to a roof rack > How does one securely lock a kayak to a roof rack. Running a cable through > elastic deck straps just won't cut it. I have just started building a Pygmy > and I will build something into it to attach to if I need to. Thanks in > advance for your answers. > > Mike Hilt *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Hi Mike -RE: Locking a kayak to a roof rack - I went to my local hardware store and bought an appropriate length of steel cable sheathed in plastic - I think it was 14 feet in my case. I also bought two steel eyelets, two heavy aluminum swages (I've forgotten the correct name of these but the hardware store will know - they're the things which crimp the cable around the eyelets) and a decent combination padlock. At home I swaged the cable onto the eyelets using an ordinary vise, but a good long pair of pliers might work - or a good heavy hammer or maul. Total cost, about $12 if I'm remembering rightly - oh, and about 5 minutes' work time. Now new holes in the boat this way. The cable sits in the boat except when I'm away from the car or van. Then, takes about 20 seconds to loop it through the hip blocks inside the cockpit and around the Yakima bar. I guess there's no reason you couldn't leave the cable around the whole affair, boat and rack bar, all the time when the boat is on the car. I've scratched up my paint job enough so that I don't want to make it any worse than it is, and I'd worry about the padlock banging against the roof or window of the car when I'm driving down the highway at 60-70 mph. Similar cable locks are available from Boulter of Earth and other companies. Bill Hansen Ithaca NY *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
When I made my last kayak, I fibreglassed a metal ring just under the deck in the cockpit area. Now I run a cable (or chain) through the ring and around the rack then lock it. Someone could still get it with bolt cutters, but this keeps it safer in parking lot somewhere for a short time. This only works if you can lock your roof rack down. A friend of my brother had his canoe taken from off his car; they took the canoe, rack and all. Some people run a cable around the rack then through one window and out the other before locking it to the kayak. John mike hilt wrote: > > How does one securely lock a kayak to a roof rack. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Mike: I wish I had a digital camera. Not that my system is all that pretty, but it works. I purchased two cables that can't be cut with normal bolt cutters and a "U" shaped lock at Home Depot. Some would say it is over kill, but to me - worth the peace of mind! The cables are a bit to long, but they are plastic coated so don't scratch the finish of the car or your boat (not to worried about mine in this case) and the "U" shaped lock fits around the Yakima bar and the ends of the cables. It is much stronger than what Yakima makes and less expensive. If I had it to do over again I would: Purchase one of the cables I have now and two shorter ones. Create a loop in the longer (double loop as I have to take up slack) running the loop through the end of one of the short cables. I would then run the other short cable through the other end of the connecting short cable and then create a loop. This prevents the looped cables from being slipped off either end of the boat. Place loops over kayak. Run loose ends under rack bar and secure with lock. See Attached Paint drawing (artist I am not). The lock and cables are available at Home Depot and are made by "Kryptonite" the folks famous for the bicycle locks that can't be cut or broken. The cables are some kind of woven steel and require special bolt cutters. Don't loose the key! Cost less than Yakima and much stronger. It won't stop the determined, but it will slow them down! Paranoid But Have Peace of Mind: Fred T. Ca Kayaker 3e66a65.jpg At 11:21 PM 5/6/2000 -0700, mike hilt wrote: >How does one securely lock a kayak to a roof rack. Running a cable through >elastic deck straps just won't cut it. I have just started building a Pygmy >and I will build something into it to attach to if I need to. Thanks in >advance for your answers. > >Mike Hilt > > >*************************************************************************** >PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not >to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission >Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net >Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net >Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ >*************************************************************************** [demime 0.92b removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 3e66a65.jpg"; x-mac-type="4A504547"; x-mac-creator="4A565752] *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Mike, I put an eye bolt through the deck, just behind and to the left of the cockpit (in front of the rear bulkhead). I fixed it so that it couldn't be removed w/out bolt cutters, a torch, or without destroying the deck, then simply run a short length of 3/8" chain (12") between a padlock and the roof rack. It takes 10 seconds to lock, is secure and has yet to be a bother in any way while paddling/affixing spray skirt, etc. But I carry my boat upside down on my car, so this method may only be suitable if you do same. Keep brainstorming and you'll find something that works great for you. Spencer HotBot - Search smarter. http://www.hotbot.com *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Just pondering on the problem, and this is what I came up with. two pipes, as in gas pipes, of diameters which allow one to slide in the other. size them that they each just fit in the cockpit opening with one nestled inside the other. extend them (slide out the inner pipe) in the cockpit from bulkhead to bulkhead and drill a hole passing through both. thread your difficult-to-cut SS braided cable (or padlock hooked with swaged cable) through the hole and anchor the cable to a particularly secure place on you vehicle. index it so it is easy to locate the inner hole. pad the ends of the pipe to cause no damage to the kayak (rubber balls on the ends perhaps). It would be easy to derive a cross shape that spans bulkhead to bulkhead and beam to beam. Just an idea. -- : : Gabriel L Romeu : http://studiofurniture.com furniture from the workshop : http://members.xoom.com/gabrielR life as a tourist, daily journal : http://users.aol.com/romeugp paintings, photographs, etchings, objects *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
On Mon, 08 May 2000 00:23:30 Gabriel L Romeu wrote: >Just pondering on the problem, and this is what I came up with. > >two pipes, as in gas pipes, of diameters which allow one to slide in the >other. size them that they each just fit in the cockpit opening with >one nestled inside the other. extend them (slide out the inner pipe) in >the cockpit from bulkhead to bulkhead and drill a hole passing through >both. thread your difficult-to-cut SS braided cable (or padlock hooked >with swaged cable) through the hole and anchor the cable to a >particularly secure place on you vehicle. > >index it so it is easy to locate the inner hole. >pad the ends of the pipe to cause no damage to the kayak (rubber balls >on the ends perhaps). > >It would be easy to derive a cross shape that spans bulkhead to >bulkhead and beam to beam. > >Just an idea. And an interesting one also. Been there, done that, though I didn't go with a cross shape; bulkhead to bulkhead only worked for me. Seat & cockpit design may or may not make this feasible. Keep this in mind, using square tubing makes aligning the holes way easier. Walking cane tips on the ends of the pipe/tubing work great to protect the boat. Spencer HotBot - Search smarter. http://www.hotbot.com *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
On Tue, 9 May 2000 10:38:37 -0400 , you wrote: >I purchased mine at a local kayak shop. It may have been the Yak Bar. It's a >black, steel telescoping tube with 1/2 H brackets on the end ]=======[. Perhaps it is the same thing... my recollection is that the Yak-Bar had rectangular steel rather than steel tubing. I suppose that it would be easy enough to fabricate. Perhaps Doug could run off a few dozen when he gets tired of renovating his K-Kave. :-) --- cheers, Stephen *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
> How does one securely lock a kayak to a roof rack. Running a cable through > elastic deck straps just won't cut it. I have just started building a Pygmy > and I will build something into it to attach to if I need to. Thanks in > advance for your answers. > > Mike Hilt > > Mike, I know you have already had some good ideas discussed so far, but you may not need to do anything extra to your pigmy boat. I don't know how far you are in the building process but you will be glassing in 31/2" hip braces under the coaming. There is room to wrap a cable around this brace and then down to the rack to secure the boat. Which model are you building? I'm paddled my Arctic Tern 4 times know and love it! I'm in the process of sanding and varnishing now that the weather is warm enough to allow better drying time for the varnish. I also will be carving a new seat. The thermorest does not suit me --numb leg drome:( Have fun Mark *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
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