[Paddlewise] Storm Islands Trip Report - Part One

To the list,
Here is part one. I'll break the report up into two parts, as it is a
bit long. I was going to abbreviate it for PW, but I'm headed off for a
week to volunteer as a camp counselor for teens, and I am running a bit
behind. Hope the report is of some value. I "grew" through the trip.
That is all we can ask out of life.

Cheers to all,
Doug Lloyd
-------------------------------------------
Pre Departure Day - Mon Aug 7th, 2000
Left Victoria 11:00 am. Pulled radio from car. Wanted to mellow out on
way up and get in sync with natural world as much as possible.
Originally had planned on being on water by now, but last minute leak
test of kayak caused one day delay to fix; and a canoe overlap-ash
gunwale job came up next day, paying $100.00 for some easy work, so gas
expenses easily covered for trip -- but gales returning to North Island
according to internet. Stopped in Campbell River, looking for knee
padding to cover inside deck bolts from just installed newer front deck
paddle float straps. Only thing available was a mouse pad and adhesive
glue from office supply store. Arrived in Port Hardy at 6:00 pm with a
headache from hell. Gale had whipped seas into a frenzy. However, unlike
last time here in April of 1999, no snow storms; in fact, legs sunburnt
from drive up. Took a stroll down to see new Coast Guard cutter. The
older one that rescued us was sitting there, forlorn. Emotions welled up
inside me. Went and got a motel. Will get groceries in morning.
Twitching in nose severe.

Day 1 - Tue Aug 8th, 2000
Slept in way too late. Called and met Paddlewiser Pat Kirbin of Odyssey
Kayaking. Left him my float plan/equipment details. Pat will alert CG by
first light next Tuesday, if no word from me. I am due back Sunday, and
leave Monday for a poor weather layover. I kept his number here in
journal -- (250) 902-0565 -- will call him Sunday with progress report
to narrow search grid if something goes wrong after that. Pat gave me
his marine operator's number for VHF emergency use. Very nice of him.
Left car at town center. Picked up groceries. Had "last meal" of chinese
food. Accosted by an insurance agent trying to sell me coverage. Gale
was still raging in Strait. A visiting British kayaker (paddles an Anas
Acuta) strolling waterfront assisted me down to low tide beach, up over
stone wall. This was a good omen. He is waiting to meet other Brit
paddlers for a week in Robson Bite area. His trip is planned by the
owner of Knoydart, with no local guides.

Pat came down to beach to scold me for not leaving earlier, suggested I
hug Vancouver Island shoreline as I head west. I told him I would be
crossing to Gordon Group right away, and not too worry, as I need the
sea trial and would be fine. I cut the mouse pad in half and glue it in.
I hate this last minute stuff, and my headache returns. Left beach
finally at 2:00 pm into a 20 knot headwind in the semi-sheltered 3-mile
deep bay. Rear of kayak was completely awash. Bow pounded over the 2
foot chop, splattering face with cool sea water, which had a nice flavor
to it. Very hard work. Arrived at Duval Pt 3:15, where the open Goletas
Channel was spewing forth its venom. Many a small boat has floundered
here, so close to home port.

Decided to cross to Heard Is., four nautical miles away. Goletas Channel
very, very lumpy in middle (lots of fun), with a 3- to 4-foot sea
running at a semi-broach angle. I'm glad for all the high wing training
in Juan de Fuca Strait over the months of June and july, and  I was
thankful for the rudder once again. Two-thirds of the way across, I
started using lots of slap supports. Figured something had to give in
the pounding. It did. My neck stiffened up badly. Limped into lee of
Hurst and Duncan Islands. Saw two kayaks lashed to a Zodiac bouncing
over the waves. They stopped for awhile, before crossing further. Hired
assisted transport for crossings -- now there was a notion. Talked to
fish boat captain who had just pulled into a small sheltered bay near a
fishfarm around 5:00 pm. I spoke of April's rescue and persistent ebb
situation, and my attempt to finish the crossing this time. He said
April was always bad due to estuarine runoff from melting snow and rain
swollen rivers and "iffy" April weather accelerating currents -- all
draining past Cape Caution, but shouldn't be a problem in August. He
really knew his stuff. He said the worst seas he had seen in his life
were just off cape Caution. He said too bad about the snotty wind of
late, and that it had been as flat calm as he has ever seen it over the
previous week and a half. Thanks! He shook his head after I disclosed I
was continuing on, and not settling into the sheltered bay for the
night.

Very lumpy on outside of Bell Is., with lots of headwind and a 3-foot
sea, low swell. Lots of reflected waves against cliffs. Shot through a
narrow passage on the outside of Bell Is., into a sheltered bay just
like Shangri-La. Took a break from the damn wind. I was in my short
sleeve summer paddling jacket, and was getting cold. Went out to Boyle
Is. a mile further off shore, getting really cold now. Storm Island
visible on distant horizon. At 6:30 pm, headed for Redfern Is., 3-miles
distance -- three miles closer to my obsession. Then I remembered those
awful feeling from last April, and quickly turned back. It was way too
late in the day for further crossings, and there may have been no
landings on Redfern or the Hedley Islands. Be smart, stay well within
your thresholds, I muttered to myself. I headed back to Hurst Is.,
playing over the reefs off Boyle Is. Swell was breaking steeply, and bow
submerged under 9 or 10 thick kelp stocks about 2- and 3-inches in
diameter. I used my tethered, fast deployment deck knife to free myself,
pronto, before the next big break. Done for the day, I headed to a small
rocky beach on Hurst Is., landed on the rough rocks. The beach was
awful. It was time for some camp finding savvy. I had forgotten Kirby
Steven's' Coastal Recreation Map of the area, so would have to trust my
old nose once again. I traced backward to my route, and headed down a
large inlet (Harlequin Bay), and found a superb campsite at a lovely
shell beach, and set up the tent on a 12-foot cliff, terraced with soft,
dry moss, overlooking the inlet. I felt like I was rewarded for being
smart and backing off. Forecast for rain and fog tomorrow, strong NW
wind in afternoon with sunny clearing. High tide at 10:30 tomorrow,
followed by ebb till 15:40,  so will head for Storm when and if it
clears, if possible. Brushed up on my tide mindset. Remembered to
convert 24-hour clock by simply subtracting 12 hours, thus 15:40 less
12:00 = 3:40 pm. I converted tide table times to daylight savings time,
and placed successive sticks in beach to indicate final High Water mark
time and double checked if it corresponded to my calculations.
Everything appeared in good order. No screwing around with incorrect
tide information on this "revisiting" trip!

Day 2 - Wed Aug 9th, 2000
Slept poorly through the night. Wind whistled through the high trees,
gusting strongly at times. Cursed wind -- it is not supposed to do this
except in the afternoon. There is no way the Storm Island crossing is
going to happen soon. My shoulder and back writhed with pain. I lay my
head back on my stuff-pillow at 7:00 am, and proceeded to fall into a
stupor of fitful deep sleep, suddenly awakened at regular interval,
hearing strange voices from the forest, and lifting my head only to
collapse in an agony of rushing, successive headaches. I was unable to
alight until 11:00 am. The wind was still whistling away. I decided to
poke my way along to the end of Nigie Is., which was on my official
float plan anyway. It will be a good staging area for the crossing to
Storm. I left at noon. It was very slow going into 3- to 4-foot seas,
strong headwinds the whole way. Whitecapps everywhere. Considered
crossing to Redfern or Buckle Group again, so as to do a mid-stream
attempt at Storm, but there was just too much wind -- even if the tide
was ebbing toward Storm. Passed lighthouse at Scarlet Pt at 1:30 pm,
considered stopping in, but didn't want human contact. Shortly after the
lighthouse, a big sea lion popped its massive head out of the waves. It
was difficult to retrieve the camera in the chop off the deck, while I
was being blown backwards toward a reef. I managed to snap a couple of
shots. Then, he started coming toward me. The big guy was so close, just
below the water's surface, that I could have pushed him with my paddle.
I did not like this intimacy and inquisitiveness. I stuffed the camera
and put paddle into motion, and raced along the coast of Balaklava Is.

It was a very long haul against 29 knot headwinds along the east side of
Nigei Is., once I reached its shoreline. Stopped in a beautiful little
bay around from Hougestal Pt. for lunch. Found an awesome surge channel
along coast prior to Cholberg Pt. Very deep, very fun, and afforded some
temporary shelter from the wind. Gobbled down some power bars. Drytop
and long-sleeved Capaline worked great all day. No exposure feeling this
time around. Considered crossing still again with the lessening of the
wind a bit, but 5:00 pm was just too late -- no reserves, night coming,
and where would I land on Pine Is.? Decided I love my family too much to
try. Told myself to relax -- why be so premature and immature about
these crossing challenges. I made a decision right then and there to
employ a red flag modality for the rest of the trip. I give myself one
red flag for being solo, automatically, and allow myself two red flags
as a maximum total -- then it will be off the water or find an
alternative plan. Maybe I'll just circumnavigate these lovely islands
near the coast, and do Storm some other year. There is nothing  forcing
me to do anything. I then turned the corner into Cascade Harbour and
found another awesome spot with a fire pit, a double terraced plateau
with grassy ledges for tent erection and even an out house. I felt
rewarded yet again, and figured the old man hadn't lost his nose for
good camping spots. I had a full view of a very dramatic sunset while
the wind hazed over the outer islands off Hope Is. It was off to bed by
9:00 pm. I will try crossing with the flood in the morning (don't EVER
want to get sucked out to sea again) and a10 knot wind predicted for
morning -- if there is no fog and good forecast for the rest of the day.
It continued windy through the night. Following in the wake of my last
disaster up here, a calm reassurance was welcomed as I drifted off to
sleep: The weather is the great arbiter out here, along with the tides
and temperature. I determined to not fight them. The skills of my chosen
sport -- caution, prudence, judgment, experience, interpretation,
intuition -- are all imprecise tools at best. But they are what I rely
upon to get the job done -- they are all I have along with the hard
skills, and I suddenly feel a new peace and lucidity. I sleep like a
baby, and the twitching in my nose disappears. I awaken to a new dawn at
5:00 am.

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