Hi: I'm midway through my "build-my-own-seat-from-minicell" project, and in high annoyance. I've had minimal luck sculpting the foam on the bottom of the seat to actually *fit* my boat's hull. We followed the instructions given at the (wonderful) kayakfit.com website, but tiny variations are making life hellish. Is there any easy way to do this, or am I doomed to just getting it as close as possible and coping? We used a flex curve to measure the hull of the boat, and found that the flex curve's plastic ends introduced problematic variations in the flex. We then tried solder, with the same problem; you just can't get the bloody thing to actually *form to the hull* without it "rebounding" a bit when you take it off. Subsequently, you wind up with variance in your cardboard templates. What I'd dearly love to be able to do would be put some sort of liquid foam down that'd actually form to the hull, but I think that's out of range. :> Basically, I'll trim a little, and discover that not only have I not corrected the previous poor fit, but introduced a new anomaly. Thanks for any help/advice, -ashton *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
> I'm midway through my "build-my-own-seat-from-minicell" project, and in > high annoyance.> My Method; Once the foam is in the rough shape of the bottom, tape 80 or 50 grit sandpaper to the bottom. Slide foam over sandpaper a couple of times. Look at the bottom of foam. If it has only been sanded in a one or two spots, scrape them with a hacksaw blade to take those areas down a little faster. Repeat until the paper is sanding over the whole bottom of the foam. Which, obviously, means the foam is now conforming to the bottom. Before applying, and after removing the sand paper, while the foam is on the bottom exert firm but light pressure. Try to slide stiff but flexible object, eg, the hacksaw blade, underneath the foam. That will also help give you a feel for the fit. JKL *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
I know that someone gave really good advice on getting that contour with sand paper adhered to the hull of the boat, I have another possible try. powder the bottom with chalk (blue for chalk lines, red and yellow are permanent), and lay the foam on there gently to indicate sanding areas. Shawn Baker has an excellent method of making a fiberglass seat referenced on my outfitting site: http://www.studiofurniture.com/diary/kayak/outfit/outfit.html there is also a link to Ken's site Ashton Treadway wrote: > > Hi: > > I'm midway through my "build-my-own-seat-from-minicell" project, and in > high annoyance. > > I've had minimal luck sculpting the foam on the bottom of the seat to > actually *fit* my boat's hull. We followed the instructions given at the > (wonderful) kayakfit.com website, but tiny variations are making life > hellish. Is there any easy way to do this, or am I doomed to just getting > it as close as possible and coping? > > We used a flex curve to measure the hull of the boat, and found that the > flex curve's plastic ends introduced problematic variations in the flex. > We then tried solder, with the same problem; you just can't get the bloody > thing to actually *form to the hull* without it "rebounding" a bit when > you take it off. Subsequently, you wind up with variance in your cardboard > templates. > > What I'd dearly love to be able to do would be put some sort of liquid > foam down that'd actually form to the hull, but I think that's out of > range. :> > > Basically, I'll trim a little, and discover that not only have I not > corrected the previous poor fit, but introduced a new anomaly. > > Thanks for any help/advice, > > -ashton -- ¤ Gabriel L Romeu ¤ http://studiofurniture.com + /diary or + /paint *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
I initially made a seat out of minicell layered with neoprene (for wear resistance) but I was never very happy with it. I eventually purchased a foam seat made by Valley for their plastic boats. It comes with "ears" which I removed. The seat is pre-shaped and I wedge it between the hip pads and it stays perfectly. I've used it for 3 years or so and it is still going strong. I believe it runs around $50 and no muss, no fuss heh heh.... cya *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
bit cruel, eh Bob? Bob Denton wrote: I eventually purchased a > foam seat made by Valley for their plastic boats. It comes with "ears" which > I removed. -- ¤ Gabriel L Romeu ¤ http://studiofurniture.com + /diary or + /paint *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
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