Re: [Paddlewise] Electric Pumps ??

From: Gerald Maroske <gum_at_exmail.de>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 00:53:14 +0100
Hi !

If you have a cheap shaft-seal, water penetrates along the shaft, 
corrodes the motor and thats it. As this happens at a part of the pump 
which in most cases is difficult to maintain and check, this is a big 
risk  for failure (I had this once).

Doubling amps can mean that your battery pack cannot provide enough 
current. Normal PANASONIC NiCD 2,2Ah cells failed when currents of 4,5 A 
were needed in my tests. You need those high Amp cells usually sold for 
RC-cars of airplanes, i.e. "High-Amp" or "Red-Amp" from PANASONIC or 
similiar stuff, which are able to provide shortcut currents between 8 to 
30A.

When those are used and your pump requires 12V here is the next problem. 
If you charge/recharge those cells, each cell has a slightly different 
capacity which may result in HALF of the given Ahs after several 
load/reload cycles.

On the pro side? My pump emptied the cockpit in 2min20 when full with 
fresh water, tested at my boathouse.
But be warned: moving salt water in your cockpit is a complete different 
game, as when the pump is not fully submerged and runs partly dry it 
takes some time to recover to full output. This is the case when the 
boat is moved by waves during the pumping process.
This can more than double the pumping time and so sucks down your 
battery power.

Gerald

Waterproof switches can be built with a rubber membrane (bycicle tube) 
covering a "foot"-push-switch usually mounted in electric guitar 
equipment, those are heavy duty.

-- 
Gerald Maroske                    		gum_at_exmail.de
Wörthstr. 36
24116 Kiel				Tel/Fax: 0431 /1 66 34

http://gum.exhome.de




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Received on Wed Mar 13 2002 - 04:09:51 PST

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