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From: Doug Lloyd <dougl_at_islandnet.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Broken paddle rescue
Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 00:31:03 -0800
Peter Treby wrote:

> snip >during a gale off Trial Island when I broke my paddle in half doing a
> self-rescue< end snip
> Could this have been a paddlefloat fixed outrigger rescue?
> PT, Melbourne, OZ.

"Twas a messy affair involving a previously weakened wooden paddle, an
attempted re-entry and roll, and a paddle-float style non-fixed self-rescue
substituting a large 3 foot by 3 foot Sea Seat in place of the normal
paddlefloat. The paddle broke during the re-enrty and roll. My point was that
relying on a boat-to-paddle tether (leash) isn't ultimately foolproof. Seas
were so rough I lost contact with the kayak instantly if I remember correctly,
and the personal tether saved my butt -- or at least my boat. But I have broken
paddles performing fixed and non-fixed paddlefloat outrigger rescues in other
instances. (That I've survived this long without a drysuit is a testament to a
good practice regime I normally keep up).

I've seen various comments on this list with respect to the usefulness of the
paddlefloat rescue (in its various configurations). While I can attest to
success in fairly rough seas with good balance and proper setup, another option
folks might like to practice is the "face-up" paddlefloat rescue. My friend,
Doug Aldeson teaches the basic manouver. Rather than swim up onto the rear deck
with your face toward the deck, try lying on the back deck with your face
looking to the sky. Slip your feet and legs into the cockpit, keeping low with
some weight on the paddle shaft for support, then simply slide in. It is very
easy to do depending on your weight and flexibility, and avoids the difficult
juncture with the normal maneuver where you need to rotate around precariously
trying not to loose your balance, break your paddle, and maybe die.

When it comes to self-rescues, most of us are such losers. I say that with love
:-) We really need to get out and practice, experiment, think outside the box a
bit, keep it as simple as possible, develop a no-fail attitude, and not skip a
beat with a few backups in place. Ultimately, good seamanship keeps us out of
trouble in the first place, or at least trying to keep within our skill level.
And that means having the ability to self rescue in the seas you might be
contemplating "challenging". That is the credo I've tried to live by --
literally.

Doug Lloyd



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From: Peter Treby <ptreby_at_ozemail.com.au>
subject: [Paddlewise] Face Up Paddlefloat Rescue and more
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 13:19:58 +1100
"The paddle broke during the re-entry and roll."
In any rescue, I suppose, paddle preservation has to be part of the plan, if
possible,
although in extremis you're probably just concentrating on getting back into
the boat
quickly, dealing with the rough water, etc. The strength of the paddleshaft
ought to
be bombproof, ideally, but this conflicts with the need for a light paddle
for what we
do most, paddle forwards lifting the paddle thousands of times a day. I was
guessing
at a fixed paddlefloat outrigger rescue, as of the various rescues I've
tried, this seems
to put the most strain on the paddleshaft. The other thing that cracks a
paddle shaft is
putting it across the back deck while getting in and out of the boat. A
paddle shaft can
have hidden weaknesses after using it this way.

"My point was that relying on a boat-to-paddle tether (leash) isn't
ultimately foolproof. Seas
were so rough I lost contact with the kayak instantly if I remember
correctly,
and the personal tether saved my butt -- or at least my boat."
Now I think I'd better start experimenting with body to boat tethers among
other skills
to refine. If the paddleshaft breaks, there goes the paddle to boat
connection, and maybe,
there goes the boat. I know I've got your article in SeaKayaker somewhere,
if the kids
haven't chopped up that issue for school project illustrations, but Doug,
can I ask what is
your preferred person-to-boat tether?

"another option folks might like to practice is the "face-up" paddlefloat
rescue."

Fill this in a little; how do you get your body onto the back deck with this
rescue? Face
up and do a dolphin-like backwards swallow dive? Which side of the paddle
shaft are you
when you launch backwards onto the back deck?

"When it comes to self-rescues, most of us are such losers. I say that with
love
:-) We really need to get out and practice, experiment, think outside the
box a
bit, keep it as simple as possible, develop a no-fail attitude, and not skip
a
beat with a few backups in place. Ultimately, good seamanship keeps us out
of
trouble in the first place, or at least trying to keep within our skill
level.
And that means having the ability to self rescue in the seas you might be
contemplating "challenging". That is the credo I've tried to live by --
literally."

Well put.

PT, Melbourne, OZ.

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From: Doug Lloyd <dougl_at_islandnet.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Face Up Paddlefloat Rescue and more
Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 21:45:33 -0800
Peter Treby wrote:

> In any rescue, I suppose, paddle preservation has to be part of the plan, if
> possible, although in extremis you're probably just concentrating on getting
> back into the boat quickly, dealing with the rough water, etc. <snip>

I busted up all my new Lendal paddle shafts. I removed the new blades and glued
them on the older shafts still in good shape where the older, inferior blades
had snapped. Older and heavier is better (that view helps my spouse love me
still :-)  ) This applies to the paddle shafts, anyway.

> I was guessing at a fixed paddlefloat outrigger rescue, as of the various
> rescues I've tried, this seems to put the most strain on the paddleshaft. The
> other thing that cracks a paddle shaft is putting it across the back deck
> while getting in and out of the boat. A paddle shaft can have hidden
> weaknesses after using it this way.

That's what happened to me, only it was after teaching a paddlefloat rescue to a
group, not the back-deck beach entry. It was still my fault to use faulty
equipment. I also wonder if wood has a certain life expectancy that's shorter
the glass.


> Now I think I'd better start experimenting with body to boat tethers among
> other skills to refine. If the paddleshaft breaks, there goes the paddle to
> boat connection, and maybe, there goes the boat.

I certainly don't use my boat-to-person tether as much as I used to. When I do
use it, its kind of like my deep-draft rudder -- if I really feel I need it,
then I really do, otherwise I don't. Know what I mean?. But its not all the
time. I'd still rather have people learn to surface from a capsize holding their
boat and paddle. But in breaking offshore seas with mixed opposing tidal
currents and high wind gusts, it's a challenge mate. Having a competent
partner(s) might be better than a tether, but while good partners are hard to
find but not impossible, finding one(s) that want's to assume the same levels of
risk as you do can be difficult. Most paddlers jam out on me just when it gets
interesting. I say this only to legitimize my back-up gear dependent methods,
nothing more. There are a thousand paddlers better than me, but they don't want
to push past a certain point -- and they shouldn't have to. (I'm not talking
whitewater kayakers here).

> I know I've got your article in SeaKayaker somewhere, if the kids haven't
> chopped up that issue for school project illustrations, but Doug, can I ask
> what is your preferred person-to-boat tether?

Chopped up? Maybe burnt would be better. Or just forgotten would be fine by me.
My preferred tether is a length of webbing from bow to a quick-release belt for
a non-clutered deck, and a coiled-in-a-pouch length of webbing from a
quick-release belt to a caribiner (which can be hooked to whatever-you-like, for
the cluttered deck boat). I have both. I have three kayaks. I DO NOT USE
ROPE/CORDAGE. I DO NOT USE IN SURF. I DO NOT USE IN FRONT OF NOVICES. I DO SEE
THEM AS AN OPTION, BUT ONLY AN OPTION. THEY CAN KILL YOU. I ONLY PROMOTE THEIR
USE WITH QUALIFICATIONS -- can you tell?

> "another option folks might like to practice is the "face-up" paddlefloat
> rescue."
>
> Fill this in a little; how do you get your body onto the back deck with this
> rescue? Face up and do a dolphin-like backwards swallow dive?

You need a fixed-deck outrigger paddlefloat system (see Matt's website for
details), then face forward to bow with your back up on the shaft that extends
out at 90 degrees.


> Which side of the paddle shaft are you when you launch backwards onto the back
> deck?

If you are doing a port side rescue, as your back goes up the paddleshaft, your
right arm is behind the cockpit to the back of it with your right hand grasping
the back of the cockpit rim on the opposite side of the cockpit to the side
where your body is. Your left arm is draped over the shaft with your left hand
holding the shaft firmly toward the distal end of the paddle near the
blade/float.All but your kidneys, bum, and legs should be out of the water now.
Then, keeping your head well back and low along the rear gunwale, maneuver your
feet up out of the water and into the cockpit in front of you. At this point,
your butt should be directly in line with the back of the cockpit and your body
forming an semi contorted elbow in two separate planes. If your feet are hooked
in properly, you should be able to lift your bum out of the water and swing it
onto the cockpit rim. Keep looking heavenward, saying your prayers, with your
head held back and low. Remember, one hand is still on the shaft, and the other
grabbing the cockpit rim, so it is very easy to perform a sit-up maneuver which
leaves you sliding into the cockpit while avoiding the tendency with the normal
paddlefloat reentry which often results in the "yellow rainbow" flash and
splash. YMMV depending on cockpit size and other factors. The more shock cord
play in your rear deck fixed-rigging , the more spongy this rescue gets during
the sit-up phase. You also don't need to time it as much with the waves as you
do with the normal methodology. BTW, the amount you engage your back onto the
rear deck depends on how tall you are, but most of us can usually go from the
back-on-shaft to sitting position in a few smooth seconds -- mostly off to the
side of the kayak. Canadians may want to try out the spring 2002 issue of
Adventure Kayak Magazine for a quick summary by Doug A. In the end, you might
need to modify some of the basic phases, but do give it a try. It is definitely
a lot more forgiving of paddle breakage.

>
>
> "When it comes to self-rescues, most of us are such losers. I say that with
> love :-) We really need to get out and practice, experiment, think outside the
> box a bit, keep it as simple as possible, develop a no-fail attitude, and not
> skip a beat with a few backups in place. Ultimately, good seamanship keeps us
> out of trouble in the first place, or at least trying to keep within our skill
> level. And that means having the ability to self rescue in the seas you might
> be contemplating "challenging". That is the credo I've tried to live by --
> literally."
>
> Well put.

Thanks Peter. When I said "loosers", I didn't mean Paddlewisers. I was thinking
of the masses. PW'ers are the cream - maybe that's why my cholesterol goes up
when I spend to much time clacking on the keyboards on PW excersising. my
opinions :-)

Doug

>
> PT, Melbourne, OZ.

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From: Matt Broze <mkayaks_at_oz.net>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Face Up Paddlefloat Rescue and more
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 00:45:57 -0800
Doug wrote:
<SNIP>>>>>>>>Remember, one hand is still on the shaft, and the other
grabbing the cockpit rim, so it is very easy to perform a sit-up maneuver
which
leaves you sliding into the cockpit while avoiding the tendency with the
normal
paddlefloat reentry which often results in the "yellow rainbow" flash and
splash. YMMV depending on cockpit size and other factors. The more shock
cord
play in your rear deck fixed-rigging , the more spongy this rescue gets
during
the sit-up phase. You also don't need to time it as much with the waves as
you
do with the normal methodology. BTW, the amount you engage your back onto
the
rear deck depends on how tall you are, but most of us can usually go from
the
back-on-shaft to sitting position in a few smooth seconds -- mostly off to
the
side of the kayak. Canadians may want to try out the spring 2002 issue of
Adventure Kayak Magazine for a quick summary by Doug A. In the end, you
might
need to modify some of the basic phases, but do give it a try. It is
definitely
a lot more forgiving of paddle breakage.>>>>>>

I don't remember ever experiencing the "yellow rainbow" so it is hard for me
to conceive of anyone but a novice experiencing this either more than a few
times. Doug, do you often experience this? After one or two times I always
figured the novice would have learned the lesson to keep their weight to the
paddlefloat side. do others often experience tipping to the non paddlefloat
side. If so please let us know if there is a serious problem here I have
been overlooking based on my own experience. Originally, I advocated using a
paddlefloat (a water jug) that could be partially filled with water to
prevent this possibility (and the first envelope style float that we made
had a big dump valve on one of the chambers so it could also be partially
filled with water). I soon realized that it was easy to shift ones weight to
the paddlefloat side (at least with a fixed outrigger--as we recommend doing
this rescue) and the risk of the "yellow rainbow" seemed pretty small then.
I have never tried the face up rescue you are advocating with just a
paddlefloat. I have used that method to get in between mine and a rescuers
kayak I'll give it a try with a paddlefloat the next time I practice
rescues. From what I gather from your description it looks like the face-up
rescue puts a lot more weight on the paddle shaft than the face-down method
we describe on our website and literature.

Having never broken a paddle doing a paddlefloat rescue even with a 20 oz.
paddle I can only conclude that some other methods of using the paddlefloat
may result in broken paddles from what some are saying here. Would anyone
who has broken a paddle doing a paddlefloat rescue please let us know just
what you were doing at the point the paddle broke and where the paddle
broke. I am concerned that some techniques have the paddler putting a lot of
weight on the paddle shaft as they walk over it coming around from behind or
throw a knee up on the middle of the shaft trying to climb up on the deck.

I think everyone should learn to re-enter and roll but there are some
downsides to it especially for new paddlers. Even with a paddlefloat it is
not likely to be successful for a non roller. The paddlers head will most
likely have to be immersed in cold water to perform the reentry before
rolling. Novices are very reticent to put their head back under water even
when directed to do so by a rescuer like during a reenter and Eskimo bow or
side rescue. Also, the rescue isn't over until you have pumped the kayak
out. The reenter and roll scoops up extra water during the roll and without
the paddle fixed to the deck the pumping process (unless you have an
electric pump) is much more difficult due to the need to balance or brace
the tippy kayak (full of free water which destroys a hulls stability) while
also trying to pump out the kayak. Too many things to do at once. I think
its best to just shift your weight to the fixed paddlefloat side of the
kayak and concentrate on pumping rather than bracing or holding your paddle
in a stabilizing position while you pump. In most kayaks it is a lot easier
to fasten the paddle to the deck from the water than later after you have
rolled up. I think the extra few seconds it takes to fasten the paddle to
the kayak are well worth it later on during the pumping out process. So if
you don't have a way to fasten the paddle to the deck of the kayak that you
happened to capsize (and you know how to Eskimo roll) by all means use the
reenter and roll (that you hopefully have practiced). I suggest one learn
all the rescues you can and then think about the vulnerabilities of each.
Then pick the one from your quiver that is most appropriate for the
situation you happen to find yourself in.
I'd also be interested in hearing any stories of breaking a paddle in any
way. Please tell us the brand, model, materials, and feather of any paddle
you've broken, and just what you were doing when it broke. For instance: I
broke a Lightning Ultralight 2 piece paddle (with the old smooth "Skypole"
ultralight shaft) when trying to catch a large whitecapping wave in Baja in
a Khatsalano that had 10 gallons of water and 2 weeks of gear aboard (and
about 2" of freeboard on the back deck). I dug in hard to accelerate as
quickly as possible just as the next wave crest came by and hit the paddle
blade from behind. The shaft literally exploded between my hand and the
blade with a loud bang and a puff of black "smoke" (just where the oval
turns into a round shaft again--and probably creates a stress riser). With
two weeks to go on the trip I was glad I had a good quality spare (which I
was very careful not to overstress--while thinking about how I was going to
connect the incompatible good halves of both paddles if I broke the 4 piece
spare paddle too).

Matt Broze
http://www.marinerkayaks.com
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From: John Blackburn <digipixs_at_erols.com>
subject: [Paddlewise] Broken Paddles
Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 10:47:37 -0800
I broke a Werner paddle blade in a pool session trying to "pole valt" off the
bottom after missing a roll.  The blade developed a hinge right in the middle
below the center rib.  My fault!  The same session I also broke a friends
greenland stick, she said that it had developed a crack prior to her lending it
to me.  I still felt guilty though.

John Blackburn

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From: Joe Federici <fedo_at_hudsonet.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Broken Paddles
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 16:45:14 -0800
John-

I see lots of broken sticks at the pool sessions don't feel so bad. I 
think the polite thing to do is offer to replace the wood.  Grade A 
ceder 2x8's near me go for around $8 or $10. Most people enjoy making 
them so a broken one can be a welcome thing.

JFF


>I also broke a friends greenland stick, she said that it had 
>developed a crack prior to her lending it to me.  I still felt 
>guilty though.
>
>John Blackburn


-- 
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From: Michael Daly <michaeldaly_at_rogers.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Face Up Paddlefloat Rescue and more
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 12:28:52 -0500
> Doug wrote:

> In the end, you might need to modify some of the basic phases, but 
> do give it a try. 

I don't think Doug A. tried it with a ocean cockpit, cause it ain't
as easy as it looks.

I modified my Ellesmere last year to add a knee tube.  Then I discovered
I can't do the regular paddlefloat entry, since my feet are too big to
roll over with the knee tube there*.  So I tried the face up version this
weekend at a pool session.

The first two times didn't work - once I got my feet into the cockpit,
the kayak rolled onto the float side so much that the coaming was
submerged!  I reconsidered and discovered that I had to do a Fosbury
Flop over the paddle shaft (like a high jumper) in order to keep my
body in the water and get my legs inside.

With the paddle shaft at my lower back, instead of the shoulder area
as Doug A. demos in the Adventure Kayak article (latest issue not
online yet), I could manage it ok.  It's not as easy as the face
down approach, but it's doable.  I was wondering about the 
practicality of this entry in rough conditions, since the technique
really reduces your freeboard on one side.  I better keep my 
reenter and roll up to speed for my Ellesmere and save the face up 
paddlefloat reentry for my Solstice.  YMMV

Moral of the story: practice!

Mike
PS - I will try it some more to see if I can refine it and gain 
confidence in the technique for this kayak.

*I tried the cross-feet entry like I do with my WW kayak (center
foam pillar prevents rotation from face down to face up), but
couldn't get that to work - less stability in the Ellesemere.
I should practice that some more too.

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From: PeterO <rebyl_kayak_at_iprimus.com.au>
subject: RE: [Paddlewise] Face Up Paddlefloat Rescue and more
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 07:35:44 +1100
Matt wrote:-
SNIP>I think everyone should learn to re-enter and roll but there
>are some downsides to it especially for new paddlers. Even
>with a paddlefloat it is not likely to be successful for a
>non roller.
SNIP
>I'd also be interested in hearing any stories of breaking a paddle in any
>way. Please tell us the brand, model, materials, and feather of any paddle
>you've broken,


G'Day Matt,

Thanks for the critique of the Paddlefloat reentry and roll - although I
much prefer that technique the points about it requiring an ability to
reenter and roll in the first place and the instability due to water in the
kayak are well taken. I'm fortunate to have a small cockpit and electrical
and mechanical pumps so don't suffer too badly from the instability issue
but can see how this doesn't always apply. Will continue to practise both
Paddlefloat methods!

Three experiences with broken paddles - not all mine

1. I broke the blade of a home made narrow asymmetric spoon paddle with a
feather of about 45 degrees while trying to lift up
   off the beach with the paddle, following a failed roll when learning to
roll.
2. A friend snapped his blade when throwing the paddle onto the beach and it
hit a pebble - model unknown
3. Another friend tried a very vigorous storm roll and broke the blade,
feather angle about 80 I think, model unknown but
   from memory looked like a whitewater curved blade.(He then paddled home
with one paddle faster than I could with two)

My friends have become quite good at repairing paddles!

All the best, PeterO


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From: David Carlson <qajaq_at_nwlink.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Face Up Paddlefloat Rescue and more
Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 17:59:45 -0800
Matt,

The only time I saw a paddle break during a paddle float rescue was when I was
demonstrating the use of a sling with the paddle float.  This can put tremendous
stress on the paddle shaft, so it needs to be used with care.  I think it's
possible that the way we normally teach new paddlers to use the paddle to
stabilize their boat while launching may normally be more stressful on the
paddle shaft than self rescues.

Regards,

Dave Carlson

Matt Broze wrote:

> <snip>

> Having never broken a paddle doing a paddlefloat rescue even with a 20 oz.
> paddle I can only conclude that some other methods of using the paddlefloat
> may result in broken paddles from what some are saying here. Would anyone
> who has broken a paddle doing a paddlefloat rescue please let us know just
> what you were doing at the point the paddle broke and where the paddle
> broke.

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From: Doug Lloyd <dougl_at_islandnet.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Face Up Paddlefloat Rescue and more
Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 19:44:42 -0800
Matt said:

I don't remember ever experiencing the "yellow rainbow" so it is hard
for me to conceive of anyone but a novice experiencing this either more
than a few times. Doug, do you often experience this?

NOTE: REPLY IN CAPS TO DIFFERENTIATE FROM SENDER (NOT MEANT TO IMPLY
VERBAL VOLUME)

NO. MAYBE THE FIRST TIME I TRIED IT YEARS AGO, BUT THEN THE REAL FIRST
TIME I TRIED AN OUTRIGGER PADDLEFLOAT RESCUE WAS THE EARLY 80's, AND I
WAS USING THE MARINER SELF-RESCUE METHOD WHICH USES A WATER JUG (CARRIED
IT FAITHFULLY ON MY NARROW NORDCAPP FOR YEARS, YOU KNOW, 'CAUSE MATT
SAID SO). THE WEIGHT OF THE WATER PREVENTED NOVICE TYPE ERRORS.

After one or two times I always figured the novice would have learned
the lesson to keep their weight to the paddlefloat side. do others often
experience tipping to the non paddlefloat side.

I'VE SEEN NOVICES IN MY CLASS DO THIS. GUESS I'M A POOR TEACHER

If so please let us know if there is a serious problem here I have been
overlooking based on my own experience. Originally, I advocated using a
paddlefloat (a water jug) that could be partially filled with water to
prevent this possibility (and the first envelope style float that we
made had a big dump valve on one of the chambers so it could also be
partially filled with water). I soon realized that it was easy to shift
ones weight to the paddlefloat side (at least with a fixed outrigger--as
we recommend doing this rescue) and the risk of the "yellow rainbow"
seemed pretty small then.

(COVERED ABOVE - SHOULD HAVE READ FORWARD IN YOUR POST)

I have never tried the face up rescue you are advocating with just a
paddlefloat. I have used that method to get in between mine and a
rescuers kayak I'll give it a try with a paddlefloat the next time I
practice rescues.

THE NEXT TIME YOU PRACTICE?    COME ON MATT, YOU MEAN "_WHEN_ I PRACTICE
NEXT TIME." (AS IN ONE SHOULD BE PRACTICING ALL THE TIME   :-)

rescue puts a lot more weight on the paddle shaft than the face-down
method we describe on our website and literature.

YES AND NO. YOU NEED TO GET A REALLY GOOD ARM STRETCH OVER TO THE OTHER
SIDE OF YOUR COCKPIT COMING. IN A SENSE, THERE IS A FAIR BIT OF WEIGHT
ON YOUR PADDLE, BUT THE POINT WAS THAT YOU AVOID THE "SUDDEN" WEIGHT OF
THE INEVITABLE MOMENT WHEN YOU HAVE TO TURN AROUND DOING IT
CONVENTIONALLY. YMMV, AS PER.

Having never broken a paddle doing a paddlefloat rescue even with a 20
oz. paddle I can only conclude that some other methods of using the
paddlefloat may result in broken paddles from what some are saying here.
Would anyone who has broken a paddle doing a paddlefloat rescue please
let us know just what you were doing at the point the paddle broke and
where the paddle broke.

THE MORE FLOTATION IN YOUR PADDLEFLOAT, THE MORE CHANCE OF BREAKING IT,
AS THERE IS LESS CHANCE OF IT SUBMERGING (DURING POOR TECHNIQUE). THEN
AGAIN, I'VE SUBMERGED SMALL FLOATS, UNTIL THERE IS SO MUCH LEVERAGE DUE
TO BOUYANCY ON THE PADDLE ONCE DOWN AT DEPTH, THAT THE SHAFT JUST SNAPS.
IT IS COMMON KNOWLEDGE THAT PADDLES BREAK DURING PADDLEFLOAT RESCUE
PRACTICE AND DURING THE REAL THING. I AM VERY SURPRISED YOU TAKE
EXCEPTION WITH THIS. NO NEGATIVITY TO YOU INTENDED; ITS JUST THAT
'EVERYONE KNOWS' THIS IS A DISTINCT POSSIBILITY AND REALITY.

I am concerned that some techniques have the paddler putting a lot of
weight on the paddle shaft as they walk over it coming around from
behind or throw a knee up on the middle of the shaft trying to climb up
on the deck.

WHATEVER THE REASON, POOR TECHNIQUE IS WHAT ULTIMATELY IS RESPONSIBLE
FOR PADDLE BREAKAGE.

I think everyone should learn to re-enter and roll but there are some
downsides to it especially for new paddlers. Even with a paddlefloat it
is not likely to be successful for a non roller. The paddlers head will
most likely have to be immersed in cold water to perform the reentry
before rolling.

NOT NECESSARILY. THERE ARE A NUMBER OF PADDLEFLOAT AND NON-PADDLEFLOAT
R&R TECHNIQUES. SOME KEEP THE HEAD  UP BUT FLOOD THE COCKPIT MORE, AND
VISA VERSA. I TEACH THREE R&R METHODS, AND MY FRIEND DOUG ALDERSON, A
NUMBER MORE. I'D LIKE TO DO AN ARTICLE FOR SK MAGAZINE SOMETIME ON
THESE, WITH SOME THOUGHTS ON STABILIZATION.

Novices are very reticent to put their head back under water even when
directed to do so by a rescuer like during a reenter and Eskimo bow or
side rescue. Also, the rescue isn't over until you have pumped the kayak
out. The reenter and roll scoops up extra water during the roll and
without the paddle fixed to the deck the pumping process (unless you
have an electric pump) is much more difficult due to the need to balance
or brace the tippy kayak (full of free water which destroys a hulls
stability) while also trying to pump out the kayak. Too many things to
do at once. I think its best to just shift your weight to the fixed
paddlefloat side of the kayak and concentrate on pumping rather than
bracing or holding your paddle in a stabilizing position while you pump.

WELL YES, THERE ARE ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES TO EVERYTHING. WEARING
CORRECT GEAR, COLD WATER WITH WARM AIR VS COLD WATER WITH COLD AIR --
ALL THESE THINGS DETERMINE WHAT IS GOING TO WORK BEST FOR A PARTICULAR
PERSON AND EXPERIENCE LEVEL, ETC.

In most kayaks it is a lot easier to fasten the paddle to the deck from
the water than later after you have rolled up. I think the extra few
seconds it takes to fasten the paddle to the kayak are well worth it
later on during the pumping out process. So if you don't have a way to
fasten the paddle to the deck of the kayak that you happened to capsize
(and you know how to Eskimo roll) by all means use the reenter and roll
(that you hopefully have practiced). I  suggest one learn all the
rescues you can and then think about the vulnerabilities of each.

MOST DEFINITELY. MATT, I AGREE WITH YOU 100% ON THE FIXED OUTRIGGER, BUT
JUST REMEMBER, THERE ARE SOME VERY WELL RESPECTED NAMES IN THE KAYAKING
SAFETY FIELD THAT ADVOCATE A NON-FIXED PADDLEFLOAT RESCUE. AND I TOO
WONDER HOW THEY GET THEIR SKIRTS BACK ON THE COAMING, BUT HEY, ITS A
CHANGING WORLD OUT THERE AND US OLD FOGIES AREN'T THE ONLY ONES WITH ALL
THE ANSWERS ANYMORE (NEVER WERE)..

Then pick the one from your quiver that is most appropriate for the
situation you happen to find yourself in. I'd also be interested in
hearing any stories of breaking a paddle in any way. Please tell us the
brand, model, materials, and feather of any paddle you've broken, and
just what you were doing when it broke.

DOES DRIVING OVER THEM WITH A  CAR COUNT?  IF I SAY IT PUBLICLY HERE,
THE DEALER MIGHT READ THIS AND CALL ME ON MY LAST WARRANTY CLAIM  :-)

For instance: I broke a Lightning Ultralight 2 piece paddle (with the
old smooth "Skypole" ultralight shaft) when trying to catch a large
whitecapping wave in Baja in a Khatsalano that had 10 gallons of water
and 2 weeks of gear aboard (and about 2" of freeboard on the back deck).
I dug in hard to accelerate as quickly as possible just as the next wave
crest came by and hit the paddle blade from behind. The shaft literally
exploded between my hand and the blade with a loud bang and a puff of
black "smoke" (just where the oval turns into a round shaft again--and
probably creates a stress riser). With two weeks to go on the trip I was
glad I had a good quality spare (which I was very careful not to
overstress--while thinking about how I was going to connect the
incompatible good halves of both paddles if I broke the 4 piece spare
paddle too).

I THINK DAN HARRISON CAN WORK WITH THIS ONE FOR A HOMER STYLE EPIC. JUST
KIDDING MATT. DON'T LET MY FRIVOLITY DETRACT FROM GETTING SOME GOOD
RESPONSES TO YOUR QUESTIONS.

WELL, I HAVE BROKEN A FEW PADDLES BEFORE MATT, USUALLY IN SURF OR ROUGH
WATER PADDLEFLOAT PRACTICE - AND AT THE POOL AND LAKE. ONE DAY, I'LL
HAVE TO GET A STAINLESS STEEL PADDLE AND KAYAK; UNTIL THEN,
FIBERGLASSDESTRUCTUSS.

DOUG  (WHO JUST SPENT $500.00 ON MORE GYM EQUIPMENT -- GUESS I COULD
HAVE AFFORDED THAT GORETEX SUIT IF I REALLY WANTED TO)

Matt Broze
http://www.marinerkayaks.com

------------------------------
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From: John Gibbs <johngibbs_at_charter.net>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Face Up Paddlefloat Rescue and more
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 10:15:03 -0500
Per Mariner Kayak's recommendation, I carry as a spare an aluminum Carlisle
paddle--cheap and tough enough for paddle-float re-entry practice.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Lloyd" <dougl_at_islandnet.com>
To: "Matt Broze" <mkayaks_at_oz.net>; <PaddleWise_at_paddlewise.net>
Sent: Monday, March 04, 2002 10:44 PM
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Face Up Paddlefloat Rescue and more

> . . .
>ONE DAY, I'LL HAVE TO GET A STAINLESS STEEL PADDLE AND KAYAK
>


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From: PeterO <rebyl_kayak_at_iprimus.com.au>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Face Up Paddlefloat Rescue and more
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 07:35:23 +1100
Doug' wrote
>SOME KEEP THE HEAD  UP BUT FLOOD THE COCKPIT MORE, AND
>VISA VERSA. I TEACH THREE R&R METHODS, AND MY FRIEND DOUG
>ALDERSON, A NUMBER MORE. I'D LIKE TO DO AN ARTICLE FOR SK
>MAGAZINE SOMETIME ON THESE, WITH SOME THOUGHTS ON STABILIZATION.

G'Day Doug'

Look forward to reading your R&R articles - particularly methods for
reducing water in the cockpit. Hadn't realised there would be so much
variation in technique.

Re beginners possible dislike of putting their head under water - I remember
being told that you could push your self under the boat, put your head in
the cockpit and take a breath before completing the reentry and roll. These
days I can't think of any good reason for doing this, in fact I wonder if it
might not be hazardous in rough water. But at the time it was so intriguing
that any concerns were forgotten. Maybe it was just a teaching ploy!

All the best, PeterO
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From: Michael Daly <michaeldaly_at_rogers.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Face Up Paddlefloat Rescue and more
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 16:13:07 -0500
From: "PeterO" <rebyl_kayak_at_iprimus.com.au>

> Re beginners possible dislike of putting their head under water - I remember
> being told that you could push your self under the boat, put your head in
> the cockpit and take a breath before completing the reentry and roll. These
> days I can't think of any good reason for doing this

If you do a somersault reentry (vs a side floating reentry) this is the
easiest way to set up.  With your head inside the cockpit and a hand on either
side of the coaming, you just flip and you're in.  I no longer try holding
the paddle while doing this, but rather stuff the paddle under the foredeck
lines, grab it once I'm seated and roll.

>, in fact I wonder if it might not be hazardous in rough water. 

Never tried it outside of a pool or very calm lake.  I get the feeling
it would be quite safe.  I sometimes wrap my legs around the hull and
hang on for a while to rest before somersaulting.  I get the feeling 
it would be a secure way to hang on in a rough sea.  I'd be interested
in hearing from someone who's tried it in rough conditions.

Mike

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From: PeterO <rebyl_kayak_at_iprimus.com.au>
subject: RE: [Paddlewise] Face Up Paddlefloat Rescue and more
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 22:21:14 +1100
Michael wrote
>With your head inside the cockpit and a hand on either
>side of the coaming, you just flip and you're in.
Doug wrote
>simply somersaulting back in upside-down, the holding the shaft
>of the paddle with paddlefloat attached at a 45 degree angle.

G'Day,

Trouble is I'm in and scalped. Heres the problem - I'm short on hair and
have to push down and away from the cockpit before flipping otherwise I
graze a bald head against the coaming or the deck bag (not sure which though
got rid of the deckbag a few weeks ago). Works fine in swell and chop,
haven't tried it in breaking waves.

Like the idea of Doug's 45 degree paddle technique - Guess the paddle shaft
is kept 45 degrees below the water until the rescue is complete, which means
the boat is moving while the paddle is fixed in the water? Will try it this
weekend in a Klepper.

All the best, PeterO

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From: Doug Lloyd <dougl_at_islandnet.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Face Up Paddlefloat Rescue and more
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 21:25:53 -0800
Michael Daly said:
I don't think Doug A. tried it with a ocean cockpit, cause it ain't as
easy as it looks.
-----------
Mike,
Depends on the angle of the cockpit. Some peak more, so it is far easier
to get your legs in, in those situations. I even know one fellow who can
enter his Pintail instantly, but could not get into one of the other VCP
kayaks with the exact same cockpit, and had to order the keyhole
version. I agree the face up method for the paddlefloat isn't a good
option for some people, but it is worth a try. By trying different
methods, one or two will eventually work out well for your particular
boat/body combination. I like spending an entire long afternoon at the
lake in summer, experimenting with various self-rescue techniques,
trying stuff not in the books or not promoted much. My favorite methods
often emerge from things I tried by accident or modified a bit. 'Course,
making them work in real sea conditions and cold water can be another
thing entirely. One of my favorite paddlefloat self rescues involves
simply somersaulting back in upside-down, the holding the shaft of the
paddle with paddlefloat attached at a 45 degree angle. No sweep, no
roll, no movement. Just hold it steady at 45. This is as close to a
self-righting movement that you can get. The boat just follows through
to the upright position, with you left braced on the float. Well, thanks
Mike for trying out the Face-Up method and reporting back. I don't like
it myself, but then I don't like the regular method much either.

Doug





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From: Michael Daly <michaeldaly_at_rogers.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Face Up Paddlefloat Rescue and more
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 02:03:33 -0500
From: "Doug Lloyd" <dougl_at_islandnet.com>

> One of my favorite paddlefloat self rescues involves
> simply somersaulting back in upside-down, the holding the shaft of the
> paddle with paddlefloat attached at a 45 degree angle. No sweep, no
> roll, no movement. Just hold it steady at 45. This is as close to a
> self-righting movement that you can get. The boat just follows through
> to the upright position, with you left braced on the float. 

I'm having a hard time visualizing this, but it sounds interesting.
I'll try it this weekend in the pool - or at least what I understand
it to be.

Actually, one thing that I've tried is to do a somersault reentry with
a paddlefloat in my hand.  Then I do a paddlefloat assisted hand roll.
I do a layback and throw the other hand over in order to use the 
limited lift of the paddlefloat so close to the hull.  The advantage 
is that the paddlefloat is not on the paddle and the paddle is not 
stuck under the bungies.  You're ready to paddle when up and the 
float is ready for another go if you overturn again.

I actually tried this for entirely another reason.  The Great Lakes 
have lots of shipwrecks; many are just below the surface in shallow 
water.  They are difficult to see due to surface glare.  I've 
experimented with using a dive mask and snorkel to float on the 
surface and see submerged stuff at leisure.  I don't exit the kayak,
just flop to the side and float face down.  I need the paddlefloat
to provide enough bouyancy; the pfd isn't enough in this position.  
One hand is in the float where the paddle blade goes and the other 
is free to "swim" me and the kayak around.  When I want to come back 
up, I use the float to roll up.  The paddle is either under the 
foredeck bungies or floating on its tether.

Mike

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From: John Blackburn <digipixs_at_erols.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Face Up Paddlefloat Rescue and more
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 10:27:26 -0800
Doug Lloyd wrote:

> . One of my favorite paddlefloat self rescues involves
> simply somersaulting back in upside-down, the holding the shaft of the
> paddle with paddlefloat attached at a 45 degree angle. No sweep, no
> roll, no movement. Just hold it steady at 45. This is as close to a
> self-righting movement that you can get. The boat just follows through
> to the upright position, with you left braced on the float.

Is this 45 degrees to the water surface and 90 degrees to the longitudinal axis
of the boat?  Sounds like something I want to try as soon as it warms up here.

John Blackburn

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From: Doug Lloyd <dougl_at_islandnet.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Face Up Paddlefloat Rescue and more
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 18:38:52 -0800
Doug Lloyd wrote:
One of my favorite paddlefloat self rescues involves simply
somersaulting back in upside-down, the holding the shaft of the
paddle with paddlefloat attached at a 45 degree angle. No sweep, no
roll, no movement. Just hold it steady at 45. This is as close to a
self-righting movement that you can get. The boat just follows through
to the upright position, with you left braced on the float.

John asks:
Is this 45 degrees to the water surface and 90 degrees to the
longitudinal axis of the boat?  Sounds like something I want to try as
soon as it warms up here.
---------

John:
The paddle with float is kept at 45 degrees as much as possible to the
surface of the water, while being submerged deep below it. You, of
course, change angle with your boat in relationship to the shaft as you
slowly rotate up, letting the paddlefloat's buoyancy provide the
leverage to self-right you. You do need to be strong enough to hold the
paddleshaft firmly. Some folks find it difficult. I find it easy, but
find other methods that other paddlers find easy to be difficult, so
things can really vary in this game. I just like to play around
experimenting. It is a real confidence builder. You find a few rescues
you really like, then try them in controlled, cold,  rough water. You
can spend a lot on rescue gear (like me), but it is a good policy to
rely on as few as possible, but be able to use them in different
manners.

Well, sorry if I didn't make the original post clear enough. My brain
and body hurt a bit from being back at work perhaps a bit too early
after my recent surgery. I'll double-read my posts in future for
clarity.

Doug Lloyd (who's employer owns his mind -- while my wife owns my body,
my government owns my money (it seems), my God owns my spirit, but the
sea owns my soul. I, of course, just owe -- so its off to work I go.


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From: PeterO <rebyl_kayak_at_iprimus.com.au>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Face Up Paddlefloat Rescue and more
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 07:39:39 +1100
Doug wrote: -
>The paddle with float is kept at 45 degrees as much
>as possible to the surface of the water, while being
>submerged deep below it.

Steve wrote: -
>to help get the paddlefloat off easily is to open the
>air valves on it and partially submerge the paddle blade

G'Day,

Doug, yesterday I tried to roll a Klepper Aerius without a float and failed
at first because knee bracing was difficult. Then tried the reentry and roll
following your suggestion to just hold the paddle with float below the water
surface. It worked just as you described, somewhat slow, almost effortless
and didn't require well positioned knees. The angle below the water didn't
seem to matter too much. Later on learn't how to lock my knees in and
Pawlata roll the Klepper without a float. It rolls easily, but the fixed
float method is a very neat rescue!

Steve, I also tried the method you described for getting the air out of the
float by submerging it and was impressed by its potential for keeping the
boat stable while removing the float.

All rescues were in calm water

All the best, Peter

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From: Steven A. Holtzman <sh_at_actglobal.net>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Face Up Paddlefloat Rescue and more
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 18:30:11 -0800
Peter,





I wish I could take credit for that technique, but I can't. Wayne Horodowich
of www.useakayk.org was the person who taught me that trick---but it sure
works well. I have purchased his video on rescue and capsize recovery and if
you are looking for a treasure house of tips, I highly recommend it. As usual,
I have no financial interests or ties to Wayne---he's just someone I have
paddled with and learned from--in other words, a friend.





Steve Holtzman


  ----- Original Message ----- 


  From: PeterO 


  To: 'Doug Lloyd' ; 'Steven A. Holtzman' ; 'Paddlewise' 


  Sent: March 10, 2002 12:39 PM


  Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Face Up Paddlefloat Rescue and more














  Steve, I also tried the method you described for getting the air out of the



  float by submerging it and was impressed by its potential for keeping the


  boat stable while removing the float.





  All rescues were in calm water





  All the best, Peter











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From: sc <sc_at_gci.net>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Face Up Paddlefloat Rescue and more
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 19:40:40 -0900
Steve,
thanks for the link to that website...I will be ordering some videos from it
this week.
BTW - an 'a' was missing from it, so here it is for those that missed.

http://www.useakayak.org/

Scott Simpson
Anchorage Alaska

"There is always one more thing you can do to influence any situation"
Lt. Gen Harold Moore, USA (Ret)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steven A. Holtzman" <sh_at_actglobal.net>
>
> I wish I could take credit for that technique, but I can't. Wayne
Horodowich
> of www.useakayk.org was the person who taught me that trick---but it sure
> works well. I have purchased his video on rescue and capsize recovery and
if
> you are looking for a treasure house of tips, I highly recommend it. As
usual,
> I have no financial interests or ties to Wayne---he's just someone I have
> paddled with and learned from--in other words, a friend.
>
> Steve Holtzman
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