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From: JorgieJ <JorgieJ_at_aol.com>
subject: [Paddlewise] Pumping more water
Date: Fri, 1 May 1998 11:10:32 EDT
Seattle Water  Sports (PWS) in Seattle sell sea socks.  I have three of them
for my Pygmy's and they have performed very well, they do stay on when the
spray skirt is pulled off and on.  The one problem they have is drapping down
on your legs, this problem was solved by Pygmy Boats by placing a closed cell
foam block at the end of the sock.......the foam is about 2" thick and is
shaped like a bulhead, it fits snuggly (S) into the end of the sock and
stretches the fabric along the sides and top of the cockpit area.  You could
also use velcro glued to bottom of the deck and on the top of the sock to keep
it up and out of the way.
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From: Sisler, Clyde <Clyde.Sisler_at_wang.com>
subject: RE: [Paddlewise] Pumping more water
Date: Fri, 1 May 1998 08:18:27 -0400
> elongated portion toward the front.  You sit in the bag, in effect.
> If
> you tip over, only a limited amount of water can enter the boat as air
> 
	Sounds uncomfortable.  Is it designed for more extreme
conditions, as training wheels or for general use?

> It is surprising how few of these are available on the market.  I know
> of only Feathercraft selling them and I doubt that more than two or
> 
	These are folding boats, correct?  In regards to use of a
seasock, are folding and hardshells similar?
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From: Brent McMahan <yonder_at_spddallas.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Pumping more water
Date: Fri, 01 May 1998 08:43:34 -0500
About Sea Socks

> > you tip over, only a limited amount of water can enter the boat as air
> >
>         Sounds uncomfortable.  Is it designed for more extreme
> conditions, as training wheels or for general use?

It sounds uncomfortable but I hardly notice it at all. I got my sea sock with
my FeatherCraft but I use it with all my kayaks now. They are also great for
keeping sand and such out of a packed sea kayak on a long trip. You just turn
it inside out and dip it in.

>         These are folding boats, correct?  In regards to use of a
> seasock, are folding and hardshells similar?

Yes peace,  b r e n t

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From: Bob Denton <bob_at_dnax.com>
subject: [Paddlewise] Sound of One Hull Cracking
Date: Fri, 1 May 1998 11:30:58 -5
I'm not sure if I sent this to the list or not, but Valley will be 
replacing my carbon/kevlar Nordkapp. They had experienced a similar 
problem with a couple of other models made around the same time, in 
mid 95.

They have changed their production methodology and now heat cure the 
boats. 

Both Stan, at Great River (the US importers) and Robin at Valley were 
exceptional in the way they handled this. I didn't have to ask..they 
offered! 

They are also going to let me select wahtever configuration I'd 
prefer, since the other boat was "off the shelf". 

I'm probably going to keep the skg, but I wonder if any Nordkappers 
have any feel for the traditional vs Jubilee hull design? Any 
comments on moving the bulhead for use as a foot brace?


cya
Bob Denton
Gulf Stream International
Boynton Beach, Florida
Internet Web Site Development
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From: Gerald Foodman <klagjf_at_worldnet.att.net>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Sound of One Hull Cracking
Date: Sat, 2 May 1998 15:28:02 -0700
>>
I'm not sure if I sent this to the list or not, but Valley will be
replacing my carbon/kevlar Nordkapp. They had experienced a similar
problem with a couple of other models made around the same time, in
mid 95.

They have changed their production methodology and now heat cure the
boats.

Both Stan, at Great River (the US importers) and Robin at Valley were
exceptional in the way they handled this. I didn't have to ask..they
offered!

They are also going to let me select wahtever configuration I'd
prefer, since the other boat was "off the shelf".

I'm probably going to keep the skg, but I wonder if any Nordkappers
have any feel for the traditional vs Jubilee hull design? Any
comments on moving the bulhead for use as a foot brace?>>

Bob,
Why is it that I almost never see a Brittish boat in Southern California?
Why do you prefer the Nordkapp to any of the many American or Canadian
designs of similar dimensions?

Jerry


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From: Bob Denton <bob_at_dnax.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Sound of One Hull Cracking
Date: Sat, 2 May 1998 19:47:24 -5
Well in my case it was a choice between the Eddyline Falcon 18 in 
Kevlar and the Nordkapp in Carbon/Kevlar

With price about equal the Nordkapp was lighter, possibly a bit 
faster and the main feature was that it had a skeg which transforms 
it from a relatively manouverable boat to on "on rails".

Other features are the recessed compass and a larger VCP hatch in the 
stern. 

The Falcon is a little more stable and I like the Faclon's positive 
2ndry stability. 

It may be the proximity of local manufacturers that limit the 
availability of "imports". The importer of many of the brit boats is 
in Michigan, so it's not just an East Coast thing. One of the leading 
Kayak shops in SE FL has a prefereance for Brit boats otherwise I'd 
probably be paddling something else..

cya




> From:          "Gerald Foodman" <klagjf_at_worldnet.att.net>
> To:            <gulfstream_at_flinet.com>, <paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net>
> Subject:       Re: [Paddlewise] Sound of One Hull Cracking
> Date:          Sat, 2 May 1998 15:28:02 -0700

> Bob,
> Why is it that I almost never see a Brittish boat in Southern California?
> Why do you prefer the Nordkapp to any of the many American or Canadian
> designs of similar dimensions?
> 
> Jerry
> 
Bob Denton
President
Gulf Stream International
Sink the Stink - The Water Sports Deodorizer That Works!
Boynton Beach, FL
http://www.flinet.com/gulfstream/scuba.html
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From: Sisler, Clyde <Clyde.Sisler_at_wang.com>
subject: RE: [Paddlewise] Pumping more water
Date: Fri, 1 May 1998 08:31:56 -0400
> in hypothermia.  Another point to consider is that, whatever system
> you
> finally adopt, you should never depend on opening your bow or stern
> hatch in order to implement it.  To remove your hatches is to
> compromise
> your boats flotation and such a move should be avoided at almost all
> 
	Point taken and will be remembered.

> in order to get back in.  Practice using your sponsons or learn how to
> 
	These I'll have to practice with.  They currently take too long
to get hooked up.

> use a paddlefloat.  Both of these methods can be used to stablize your
> boat as you empty it.
> 
	I know how to use a paddlefloat but we're back to trying to
stablize and pump at the same time.  In this situation the bailer,
suggested by others, now seems much more appropiate than a pump.  I
should be able to find someway to position the paddle and float to brace
with one hand/arm while bailing with the other (I hope).

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From: John C. Winskill <johncw_at_narrows.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Pumping more water
Date: Sat, 02 May 1998 22:21:10 -0700
Clyde;
If the paddlefloat rescue is the rescue you choose to use then the most
stable use of it is to have a secure attachment (with quick release
capabilities) for the paddle/paddlefloat combination on your back deck. 
The best system I know of like this is that used by Lee Moyer of Pacific
Water Sports.  His system uses two plastic eyes, two plastic hooks and
two plastic (flat) jam cleats and a short piece of rope.  Mount the
eyes, one on each side of the boat, just behind the cockpit.  About six
inches further towards the stern mount the hooks, again, one on either
side of the deck and just a bit closer to the center of the deck.  Next,
mount the jam cleats, one on each side of the deck.  Thread the rope
through both eyes on the deck and tie a good sized knot in each end
(large enough so that it will jam in the eye without pulling through). 
To use the system lay your paddle across the deck between the eyes and
the hooks.  Drape the rope over the paddle and around the hooks.  Pull
the rope taut by yanking on the end closest to you and jam in the
nearest jam-cleat.  This will hold the paddle very securely until you
release the rope from the cleat.
An alternative method to attaching the paddle to the boat is to tuck the
paddle shaft into your lap and lean forward so that your weight holds
the shaft against the cockpit and the paddle/paddlefloat will then lay
perpendiclar to the boat.
It is possible to brace yourself using one arm and a paddle with or
without a paddlefloat but it requires a good deal of practice.  Place
your paddle, shaft extended, behind your head and then put your arm out
over the shaft.  You can either scull one-handed (no paddlefloat) or use
your paddlefloat for support.
Bailing vs. Pumping:
Pumping can be slower than bailing (we're talking about a hand pump
here) but it allows you to keep your sprayskirt attached and hence, in
rough water, it may be more safe and efficient than bailing.
John Winskill

Sisler, Clyde wrote:

>         I know how to use a paddlefloat but we're back to trying to
> stablize and pump at the same time.  In this situation the bailer,
> suggested by others, now seems much more appropiate than a pump.  I
> should be able to find someway to position the paddle and float to 
> brace with one hand/arm while bailing with the other (I hope).
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From: JCMARTIN43 <JCMARTIN43_at_aol.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Pumping more water
Date: Fri, 1 May 1998 14:27:30 EDT
In a message dated 98-05-01 12:25:50 EDT, bob_at_dnax.com writes:

<< 
 Has anyone heard of a selfcontained pump which runs on 3 C cells?
  >>

I bought one a couple of years ago and tried to rig it into my Pintail.  Can't
remember the name of the manufacturer --- and I don't think this one was a
Rule (per Chuck's response), but I can't think of it.  

The good news was that it was self contained, and didn't need external battery
leads. And it pumped a fair amount of water through a half inch hose.  The bad
news was that it was heavy, bulky (when you have a Pintail, <everything> is
bulky!), and the switch was a "push-push" switch, which you obviously had to
be able to reach to activate and deactivate --- no remote action with the
skirt on, or none that I could figure.  (A waterproof ['scuse the term] PWC
pump switch would have worked, but you'd have to waterproof a set of
connections inside the pump housing.  After carving the turkey down to where
it would sort of fit between my legs just in front of the seat, I still didn't
like it 'cause I couldn't figure out a clever way to activate the switch.  So
I gave up and it's sitting on a shelf in the pump box in the garage.
Boats'r'Us type places sell them, maybe $30 or $35?  (Saw the same pump in a
catalog for a lot more.)

For what it's worth.  I can give you the name later, Bob.

Jack Martin
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From: Larry Edwards <72037.3607_at_compuserve.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Pumping more water
Date: Fri, 1 May 1998 14:57:22 -0400
To: >internet:paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net

Bob Denton wrote:
>> Has anyone heard of a selfcontained pump which runs on 3 C cells?

    3 GPM, 5 hours on three C-cells, 6.5" high by 5.25"
diameter, $38. There is a self-contained hose that stows around
the body of the pump. Either feed it out your spray skirt or plumb
it into a through hull fitting.  Water is sucked in through a
bottom screen, and they can be mounted permanently with a little
fiddling around.  The toggle switch is waterproof, and an O-ring
seals the battery compartment. We stock them.

-- Larry Edwards

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From: Larry Edwards <72037.3607_at_compuserve.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Pumping more water
Date: Sat, 2 May 1998 11:58:50 -0400
To:   >internet:paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net

Ralph wrote concerning sea socks:

>> It is surprising how few of these are available on the market.  I know
of only Feathercraft selling them ...

    We offer three kinds, including Feathercraft's.  A difficulty
is that all are made for large cockpit rims and therefore won't fit
many kayaks.  One is adjustable, but if pulled too tight you have
puckers that prevent the best possible seal.  Also, sea socks grip
poorly on plastic kayaks (as do spray skirts with nylon hems rather
than exposed shock cord).  If anyone knows of socks for small
cockpit rims, I'm looking.

    We will not let any of our rental doubles go out without sea
socks.  For singles with bulkheads they are of some benefit, but
reduce the swampable volume only marginally so I consider a sock
optional for them.  Doubles, even with bulkheads, have such a large
swampable volume, that if you get all that water sloshing
side-to-side the boat can be close to zero-stable in real
conditions.  Socks make a huge difference in such a situation.

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