O.K. So.... from some of the posts I understand you should not fear drilling holes in your plastic kayak... Could someone who has done this, care to elaborate on how it is done? Maybe explain why it can't hurt the kayak, so I'll have a warm and fuzzy. I'd like to add some paddle holders to mine. But right now I feel like I would never do it myself (out of fear I'd destroy my boat). How easy is it? Susie Exeter New Hampshire *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
> > O.K. So.... from some of the posts I understand you should not fear > drilling holes in your plastic kayak... Could someone who has done this, > care to elaborate on how it is done? Maybe explain why it can't hurt the > kayak, so I'll have a warm and fuzzy. I'd like to add some paddle holders > to mine. But right now I feel like I would never do it myself (out of fear > I'd destroy my boat). How easy is it? Extremely easy. I added some deck rigging to a plastic boat just after I bought it. As long as you're not drilling holes in the boat below the waterline I woudln't be too concerned. If you really want to be careful you can wrap a piece of tape around the drill bit so that there is only 1/2" or so of the bit showing. Make sure that you mark the boat exactly where you want to drill the holes and then use a center punch to indent the plastic (a nail works as well) to keep the bit from drifting. -- John Fereira jaf30_at_cornell.edu *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
>> O.K. So.... from some of the posts I understand you should not fear drilling holes in your plastic kayak... Could someone who has done this, care to elaborate on how it is done? Maybe explain why it can't hurt the kayak, so I'll have a warm and fuzzy. I'd like to add some paddle holders to mine. But right now I feel like I would never do it myself (out of fear I'd destroy my boat). How easy is it? Susie Exeter New Hampshire >> It's extremely easy. For a tight seal, drill the holes a little smaller than the screws; also, put a washer under each nut to distribute strain. And use cap nuts with your screws so you won't have any sharp edges protruding into the kayak (your screws will have to be the right length for this). Just make sure you drill the holes in the right place, because they are very difficult to move. ;-) One way to make sure the holes are the right distance apart is to attach the paddle holder with one screw before you drill the hole for the second one; that way you can use the second screw hole in the paddle holder as a drilling guide. While you are at it, drill a few drain holes in the lowest part of the seat. Just don't drill through the hull. Chuck Holst *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Chuck Holst wrote: > While you are at it, drill a few drain holes in the lowest part of the > seat. Just don't drill through the hull. > I recently drilled a couple of drain holes in the seat of my kayak. This past weekend, I discovered they work both ways - my dry shorts got wet from the water in the cockpit when I leaned the kayak in a turn. Now if I can get a 1/8 inch, one-way valve... Mike *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Susie wrote: > > O.K. So.... from some of the posts I understand you should not fear > drilling holes in your plastic kayak... Could someone who has done this, > care to elaborate on how it is done? Chuck Holst gave a complete description of the process. I would only add that use of rubber-backed washers and/or well nuts will help to ensure a water-tight installation, and stainless hardware is worth the added expense. These should be available at the shop that sold you the yak. If they do not have the items, try these sources: NWOC: http://www.nwoc.com/ Alder Creek: http://www.aldercreek.com/ Pacific Wave: http://www.teleport.com/~pacwave/ (Have not tried the last URL in a while -- it may have moved.) -- Dave Kruger Astoria, OR *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
At 12:46 PM 7/1/99 -0500, CHUCK_at_multitech.com (Chuck Holst) wrote: SNIP >strain. And use cap nuts with your screws so you won't have any sharp >edges protruding into the kayak (your screws will have to be the right >length for this). SNIP FWIW, I have had good results using nylon screws and stainless steel or brass hex nuts. The nuts are reasonably low profile and you can cut the screws off with a woodburning pen or soldering iron. That way, you can melt the screw end into sort of a mushroom head at the nut and the screws won't come loose. Not sharp, either. Of course, as Chuck said, you want to use washers as well to help distribute the stress. Bill Leonhardt *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
At 04:57 PM 7/1/99 -0400, Bill Leonhardt wrote: >FWIW, I have had good results using nylon screws and stainless steel or >brass hex nuts. The nuts are reasonably low profile and you can cut the >screws off with a woodburning pen or soldering iron. That way, you can >melt the screw end into sort of a mushroom head at the nut and the screws >won't come loose. Not sharp, either. Of course, as Chuck said, you want >to use washers as well to help distribute the stress. Hi All! Nylon hardware is super for many applications, as it is totally corrosion resistant and extremely light. You will want to exercise caution, however, as the shear strength of a nylon screw is practically non-existent. This means that anywhere there will be a significant side load applied to a component, a deck cleat for example, you will want stainless hardware. Also, it is extremely easy to torque off the nuts. Only tighten until the nut contacts the washer, and/or you can no longer spin the screw easily. Self-locking nylon nuts are the way to go, if you can find them. Most well stocked hardware stores will carry at least a limited selection. ByeBye! S. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Susie writes, RE: her plastic kayak: << I'd like to add some paddle holders to mine. >> RE: paddle holders - A very nice paddle holder can be made by using the front of the grab line for one blade of the paddle, and then a short length of hook & loop fixed to the deck bungies just in front of the cockpit. In use, just slide the front blade of the paddle under the front of your grab line on one side of the bow, and fasten the hook&loop around the shaft on the other side. It's quick and secure enough for all but the nastiest conditions. I put one of these on my Romany (fibreglass) boat 3 years ago and it's been a very practical thing to have. Last evening I put paddle-parks on two of our other kayaks; the whole job took about 20 minutes, materials cost next to nothing, no holes in the boat. RE: holes -John Ferreira's and Chuck Holst's notes on this cover the subject well, but having done it wrongly, I've learned that you have to be very careful to seal holes, no matter where you drill them. Those washers John talk about go on the *outside* (yes, I'm capable of making that mistake too!). Bolts or screws can be sealed with 3M5200 or with thickened epoxy; bolts can also be sealed with little rubber washers (I make mine out of a used bicycle inner tube). If the thing you're drilling for is going to be subject to a lot of stress, for example if it's going to be for the webbing which holds an outrigger-rescue paddle, be sure to buttress the inside of the boat where the bolts (no screws for this) go through. Be sure not to leave sharp points sticking into the inside of your hull. Ruin more drybags and use more bandaids that way.... Screw ends can be cut off and filed off. Bolts can be shortened. Stanless steel bolts can usually be cut and filed short without destroying the threads. Spin a regular nut way up onto the shaft of the bolt before you cut and file it, so you can use the bolt as a re-threading dye in the (unlikely) event that you wreck the threads when you cut the bolt. Bill Hansen *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
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