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From: Warner Family <hmgwarner_at_shaw.ca>
subject: [Paddlewise] swede versus fish form kayaks
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2003 21:32:30 -0800
I was asked to explain the advantage or disadvantageous of swede versus 
fish form hull designs the other day.

I started off by saying I was not an expert.  After that I had nothing else 
to say.

So if there is someone out there that can bring some clarity to this - Matt 
Boze maybe - I'd be grateful.

Gordin warner

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From: Hal Christiansen <hchristiansen3_at_comcast.net>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] swede versus fish form kayaks
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 06:27:18 -0500
At 09:32 PM 2/17/2003 -0800, Warner Family wrote:
>I was asked to explain the advantage or disadvantageous of swede versus 
>fish form hull designs the other day.
>
>I started off by saying I was not an expert.  After that I had nothing 
>else to say.
>
>So if there is someone out there that can bring some clarity to this - 
>Matt Boze maybe - I'd be grateful.

A while back I asked the same question. Some quite interesting discussion 
is archived on the web page.

http://www.paddlewise.net/topics/boatdesign/pro-conswede.html


.Hal

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From: William Lloyd <lloyd_at_execpc.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] swede versus fish form kayaks - Vacuum-bagging vs hand lay-up
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 11:54:59 -0500
[Moderator's Note: Content unaltered. Excessive quoting (i.e.  headers/footers/sig lines/extraneous text from previous posts, etc.) have been removed. Please edit quoted material in addition to removing header/trailers when replying to posts.]

From: "Hal Christiansen" <hchristiansen3_at_comcast.net>
> At 09:32 PM 2/17/2003 -0800, Warner Family wrote:
> >I was asked to explain the advantage or disadvantageous of swede versus
> >fish form hull designs the other day.
>
> A while back I asked the same question. Some quite interesting discussion
> is archived on the web page.
>
> http://www.paddlewise.net/topics/boatdesign/pro-conswede.html

This reminds me that not long ago someone asked about vacuum-bagging vs.
hand lay-ups, and that I'd replied (privately?) that there had been an
excellent discussion on that topic in an issue of Sea Kayaker magazine a few
years ago, between a proponent of each method, the proponent of hand lay-ups
having been Lee Moyer.  Can that exchange be reproduced here for the benefit
of Paddlewise subscribers?

- Bill
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From: Kirk Olsen <kork4_at_cluemail.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] swede versus fish form kayaks - Vacuum-bagging vs hand lay-up
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 10:10:03 -0800
On Tue, 18 Feb 2003 11:54:59 -0500, "William Lloyd" <lloyd_at_execpc.com>
said:
> This reminds me that not long ago someone asked about vacuum-bagging vs.
> hand lay-ups, and that I'd replied (privately?) that there had been an
> excellent discussion on that topic in an issue of Sea Kayaker magazine a
> few years ago, between a proponent of each method, the proponent of hand
> lay-ups having been Lee Moyer.  Can that exchange be reproduced here for the
> benefit of Paddlewise subscribers?

Copyrighted material should never be forwarded to paddlewise without
explicit
permission from the copyright holder.  

Posting a link to an online version of the copyrighted material is
usually the 
easiest method of letting people see copyrighted stuff.

Kirk
paddlewise admin.
-- 
  Kirk Olsen
  kork4_at_cluemail.com
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From: Matt Broze <mkayaks_at_oz.net>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] swede versus fish form kayaks - Vacuum-bagging vs hand lay-up
Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 19:28:53 -0800
Since this article is not available on Sea Kayaker's website and even if I
got permission I wouldn't type it all, the best I can do is give you our
side of the argument (just what we gave to Sea Kayaker for further editing).
This is how it is in my computer just as it was written and formatted in
1984 on a Kaypro II in the Perfect Writer program using a CPM operating
system (pre-MS-DOS). When you were as poor a typist as I was it was a little
easier to edit with this program (at least after a tough few weeks learning
the program) than using a typewriter (but still it was clacked out on a
daisywheel printer) but definitely it was not nearly as easy as WYSIWYG
("What you see is what you get") editing that came a little later with
Windows. It had to be clacked out on the daisy wheel several times to get
the formatting right. Cam and I both wrote it together but as I was already
their Safety columnist Cam's name is on it in the second (ever) issue of Sea
Kayaker Magazine where it appeared (after some editing).

Lee Moyer did the pro hand lay-up section. His valid points were that hand
lay-ups are easier bond to for seaming and bulkhead installations and also
for repairs, especially in areas where it is difficult to sand because
sanding is not necessary to bond to a hand laminate. (note: This is true
only if no sealing coat is added to fully cure the hand laid surface).

We would have preferred a format where each party was allowed to respond to
the other sides points since I believe we could have easily refuted the
other points Lee made concerning issues (of importance to the consumer
rather than to the builder) such as flexibility vs. stiffness and exterior
finish (at the time Eddyline hadn't been using geloat on their.
vacuum-bagged hull's exterior--which Lee said was the reason they were
lighter). Actually a hand lay-up is lighter for equal stiffness/thickness
because glass weighs more for an equal volume than resin does and there can
be a far higher glass percentage in a vacuum-bagged laminate than possible
with a hand laid one. It is the extra glass fibers in the laminate that
makes vacuum-bagging stronger pound for pound. Sea kayaker sells reprints of
articles. This one was on page 55 of Vol. 1 #2 (Summer-Fall 1984) if you
wish to get a copy of exactly what Lee wrote and see what was edited out of
our version please order it from them.

The following is what I believe we sent to Sea Kayaker.

_at_pagefooting[ ]
_at_style[spacing 2 lines]
_at_style[justification no]
_at_center[VACUUM BAGGED VERSUS HAND LAMINATED KAYAKS]
_at_center[by Cam Broze, Mariner Kayaks]
_at_blankspace[1 line]
_at_flushleft[_at_U(What is Vacuum Bagging?)]

In vacuum bagging a thin plastic sheet is sealed around the edge
of a mold containing fiberglass and liquid plastic resin.  The
air is then pumped out.  Atmospheric pressure uniformly
squeezes the materials between the bag and the mold and holds it
under pressure until the resin hardens.
_at_flushleft[_at_U(Putting The Debate in Perspective)]

When selecting a sea kayak such factors as paddling ease,
handling characteristics under various conditions, suitability to
your purposes, safety features, fit and comfort are much more
important considerations than the method by which the kayak was
laminated. Also, the type and quality of materials used are
likely to have a far greater effect on the strength of the
laminate than whether it was hand layed or vacuum bagged.

_at_flushleft[_at_U(Strength)]

Even laminates made with inexpensive polyester resin and nothing
but (or mostly) fiberglass mat can be made sufficiently strong by
using more of those materials to build thickness.  The major
disadvantage to this approach, often found in British made sea
kayaks and others with recessed deck fittings, is the
considerable excess weight.

  Most experts (mainly in the aerospace and aircraft industries)
agree that for equal weight, using the same quality and type of
materials, an expertly vacuumed bagged laminate will be tougher
and more flexible than an expertly crafted hand laminate.  The
optimum resin to glass ratio for maximum strength is beyond the
ability of the hand lay up process to achieve because the
resilency of the glass material will cause it to expand and suck
in air if not held under pressure. The additional toughness
of a vacuum bagged laminate means it can withstand harder bangs
and blows without serious damage.  For whitewater kayaks this is
important.  For most sea kayaks this toughness is tested much
less frequently.

Beyond the optimum glass to resin ratio, the smooth inside
surface of a vacuum bagged laminate carries tension across it
better than the rough hand laminated surface which provides many
places for a crack to begin (much like a notch in a stick).  This
is one of the reasons why those who have tried removing bag
wrinkles (because they can be seen through translucent laminates)
by using a layer of nylon that is peeled off the part after it
cures (Peel-ply) have found that they were producing weaker
kayaks than those they produced with hand lamination.


Because of the uniform pressure vacuum bagging also allows the
use of heavier weave fabrics, such as woven roving, without
layers of the much weaker fiberglass mat between them. To avoid
air gaps when hand laminating with heavy fabric, the mat is
needed to reduce the draining of resin out of the weave on
vertical surfaces of the mold.



Other reasons we prefer to have our designs vacuum bagged are:

1)  The resin is fully cured on the inside surface because the
vacuum bag separates that surface from the air during the curing
process.  Fiberglass laminating resin is air-inhibited, which
means it never fully cures if left in contact with air, as with
hand laminating.  This uncured surface erodes (over time) when in
contact with water, leaving pits between the weave of the cloth
and weakening the laminate. (These pits are often seen as dark
spots where they have filled with dirt.) Between uses care should
be taken that water not be allowed to sit in a hand layed kayak,
and float bags should be removed so moisture is not trapped
against the uncured surface.  Chlorinated water of swimming pools
is especially corrosive and often turns this uncured surface
white.

The uncured surfaces become soft and somewhat sticky while in
contact with water. Touching this for a period of time often
causes a local skin rash in the area of contact (most often seen
at the knee or where the thigh braces contact bare skin if those
areas are not padded).

2)  The smooth interior surface means there is less wear on gear
bags than there is against the rough abrasive surface of hand
lay-ups, and the heel area of your footwear won't get holes worn
through.

3)  The smooth fully cured inside surface is also far easier to clean.



The main disadvantage of vacuum bagging is higher cost.  This is
due to the additional equipment needed, the cost of the 12 or 13
yards of rather expensive bag material that is required for each
kayak, and the extra labor required to prepare the parts for
seaming or installation of bulkheads.  Any bag wrinkles, which
are almost unavoidable near the ends of the kayak, must be
scraped out and any surface that will be bonded with fiberglass
(seams, bulkheads, etc.) must be well sanded.  This is all
unnecessary with hand laminates.

  One other benefit of vacuum bagging is that people working with
this process are not as subjected to solvent fumes.

We feel that the advantages to the customer outweigh the extra cost of
vacuum bagging.


Matt Broze
http://www.marinerkayaks.com


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From: Shawn Baker <shawnkayak_at_yahoo.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] swede versus fish form kayaks
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 08:44:04 -0800 (PST)
Gordin Warner <hmgwarner_at_shaw.ca> wrote:
>I was asked to explain the advantage or disadvantageous of swede
versus 
>fish form hull designs the other day.

In a heated discussion on P'wise a couple of years ago, Matt B.
mentioned that fast birds, fish, and submarines are fish-form.  They
generally "operate" in one fluid.  All other things being equal (which
they're not), fishform kayaks have more directional stability--they
tend to track in a straight line once set (note that this also means
they can be more difficult to bring back onto one's desired course
after a broach).  I'm told that a lot of Brit boats have more volume in
the bow than stern, which is supposed to sink the stern before the bow
in a following sea, lessening the tendency to broach.  (Note here,
though, that this can be done with volume distribution without altering
the plan shape -- fishform and swedeform are largely descriptions of
plan shape)

Fast ships and kayaks are Swedeform--they operate at the interface
between air and water fluids, so their wavemaking shape is more
critical than simply how they push straight through the fluid.  I am
told (and have noted) that often Swedeform kayaks are more
maneuverable, and more responsive to leaned turns, although I don't
know the mechanics behind this (but am eager to learn it!).

As an aside, I suppose the S in Swedeform should be capitalized as a
proper adjective.  (But maybe the Norwegian in me would tend to spell
it with a lower-case s.  Just kidding, Swedish list-members!)

Slightly-OT: Did you try Joe Greenley's Redfish King at R2K2?  What a
gorgeous Swedeform!!!

Shawn

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From: <FoldingBoats_at_aol.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] swede versus fish form kayaks
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 14:48:40 EST
In a message dated 2/18/2003 11:45:19 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
shawnkayak_at_yahoo.com writes:

> ... I'm told that a lot of Brit boats have more volume in the bow than 
> stern, which is supposed to sink the stern before the bow in a following 
> sea, lessening the tendency to broach. ...

How so?

Best regards,
Ralph

Ralph C. Hoehn
Ralph_at_Atlatl-Kayaks.com / Ralph_at_PouchBoats.com
www.Atlatl-Kayaks.com / www.PouchBoats.com
phone: +1-203-324-0901

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From: <FoldingBoats_at_aol.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] swede versus fish form kayaks
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 22:05:02 EST
In a message dated 2/18/2003 8:31:34 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
shawnkayak_at_yahoo.com writes:

> Supposedly...

Thank you, Shawn. An interesting approach.

Best regards,
Ralph

Ralph C. Hoehn
Ralph_at_Atlatl-Kayaks.com / Ralph_at_PouchBoats.com
www.Atlatl-Kayaks.com / www.PouchBoats.com
phone: +1-203-324-0901

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