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From: skimmer_at_.enter.net <skimmer_at_enter.net>
subject: [Paddlewise] lightening strikes
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 08:48:56 4
Hi All,

Are there any records of paddlers struck by lightening, as 
distinguished from sailors in boats with lightening rod masts, etc.?
We are not even paddling aluminum watercraft. Our paddles are usually 
wood or fiberglass.

Thanks,

Chuck Sutherland
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From: <HRobinson_at_lakelandcc.edu>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] lightening strikes
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 18:12:51 -0400
I heard, that the fact that since most boats are is either made of plastic
or have plastic components such as paint,  gelcoat and similar materials,
develop eletrostatic charges when moving through the water. That could
attract lightening...
Heike
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From: PeterO <rebyl_kayak_at_iprimus.com.au>
subject: RE: [Paddlewise] lightening strikes
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2003 18:23:05 +1100
Chuck wrote: -
>Are there any records of paddlers struck by lightening
and
>We are not even paddling aluminum watercraft.
>Our paddles are usually wood or fiberglass.

G'Day Chuck,

If there are no such records then two of us had a fair chance of making one
yesterday if we hadn't got off the water.

At the storms peak, which lasted half an hour in our location, there were
about 5 strikes a minute, with no time between some of the flashes and
thunder that I could measure. This was a hell of a storm - with hail larger
than golf balls in some places - lot of damage. I was using a carbon fibre
paddle.

Kayaks are insulators coated with a conductor, water. Not only that but
humans are good conductor being mainly composed of salty water. And of
course there are carbon fibre paddles! Michael Daly recently measured one as
having a resistance of roughly 40 Ohms and Dave Kruger also gave a
compelling description of the behaviour of materials in a lightning strike
(Paddlewise Digest 2096).

Some times a calculated risk degenerates into a "drunkards walk" gamble.

All the best, PeterO
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From: alex <al.m_at_3web.net>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] lightening strikes
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 16:42:33 -0700
The boat that PeterO paddled - Feathercraf Kahuna - is pretty much aluminum
(frame), with sythetic skin around which doesn't  help much, being very
thin.  Such object may be doesn't attract lightning, being very low, but is
not protected from not only direct strikes, but from close strikes as well
(they may get you through surface of salty water, albeit with reduced
power). Fiberglass or playwood kayak is probably more safe.
Alex.

----- Original Message -----
From: "skimmer_at_.enter.net" <skimmer_at_enter.net>
To: <paddlewise_at_paddlewise.net>
Sent: October 25, 2003 8:48 AM
Subject: [Paddlewise] lightening strikes


> Hi All,
>
> Are there any records of paddlers struck by lightening, as
> distinguished from sailors in boats with lightening rod masts, etc.?
> We are not even paddling aluminum watercraft. Our paddles are usually
> wood or fiberglass.
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From: Nick Schade <nick_at_guillemot-kayaks.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] lightening strikes
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 09:38:34 -0500
Lightening generally passes through thousands of feet of air between 
the cloud and the ground. Air is a excellent insulator. Don't be under 
the impression that a fraction of an inch of plastic, wood or 
fiberglass will effect the lightening in any manner. There is nothing 
you can put between yourself and lightening that will provide any 
additional insulation. Wood, plastic or fiberglass will make absolutely 
no difference to the lightening.

The only possible form of protection is providing a better path for the 
lightening than your body. This is the principle of a lightening rod. 
Many people know that it is safer in a car than outside. Most people 
assume that this is because of the tires. This protection is provided 
by the metal shell of the car which provides a better conduction path 
than your body. The tires are almost irrelevant  (although steel belted 
radials may make a difference). The insulation provided by rubber tires 
would be vaporized instantaneously and would not effect lightening that 
can course through miles of air.

If anything an aluminum framed kayak will be safer than a 
non-conducting boat. If you tuck down into the cockpit, you will have 
something like a Faraday cage which may provide some modest protection. 
The boat would probably not survive a direct strike, but possibly you 
would be alive to swim out of the skin.
Nick

On Saturday, October 25, 2003, at 07:42  PM, alex wrote:

> The boat that PeterO paddled - Feathercraf Kahuna - is pretty much 
> aluminum
> (frame), with sythetic skin around which doesn't  help much, being very
> thin.  Such object may be doesn't attract lightning, being very low, 
> but is
> not protected from not only direct strikes, but from close strikes as 
> well
> (they may get you through surface of salty water, albeit with reduced
> power). Fiberglass or playwood kayak is probably more safe.
>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> Are there any records of paddlers struck by lightening, as
>> distinguished from sailors in boats with lightening rod masts, etc.?
>> We are not even paddling aluminum watercraft. Our paddles are usually
>> wood or fiberglass.
>
Nick Schade

Guillemot Kayaks
824 Thompson St
Glastonbury, CT 06033
USA
Ph/Fx: (860) 659-8847
http://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/
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From: Dave Kruger <kdruger_at_pacifier.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] lightening strikes
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 06:42:06 -0800
Nick Schade <nick_at_guillemot-kayaks.com> put it well, and succinctly:

>> Lightening generally passes through thousands of feet of air between
the cloud and the ground. Air is a excellent insulator. Don't be under
the impression that a fraction of an inch of plastic, wood or
fiberglass will effect the lightening in any manner>>  [much snipped]

I no longer have the post I made a month ago or so detailing how the local
electric potential influences ___where__  lightning strikes.  That is perhaps
the main way to decrease your risk:  avoid places, postures, and gear that
will enhance the chance lightning will strike on you or near you.  As Nick
says, the "insulating" value of anything you might have about won't help you
__if lightning strikes you__.  But, you can do something about __not__ being
the place where lightning strikes.

Some examples of don'ts when lightning is about:

Hold a stick or other object vertically (especially anything metallic).
Park your fanny under a lone tree.
Stick out above the ground or water in wide open spaces (... aaaak! that's
what paddlers do!)

Why avoid these "don'ts?"  Because conductive objects, including ourselves,
as Mike Edelman points out, which are attached to ground ("grounded") are
part of the charge redistribution system that occurs as the electric
potential builds up prior to a strike.  If your noggin is the highest thing
around (especially if it is sharply pointed like mine is), then it becomes a
point of higher electric potential, and the point where a strike is most
likely to occur.  If caught in the open on land, crouch or cower, and place
something dry and insulating between you and the ground -- the latter will
help minimize your electric potential, minimizing the chance you will get
hit.  (But, as Nick says, that Thermarest pad will get zapped just as you
will, __if lightning strikes you__.)

Another don't is:

Place yourself in/alongside the path the ground current is likely to follow.

What's ground current?  It is the flow of electrical charge within the earth
which occurs as the lightning reaches earth.  If your body becomes part of
that path, you'll get zapped.  This is probably what happened to the kayakers
in the cave/bunker.  Other incidents of injuries and deaths to persons taking
shelter in a cave on a hillside have been recorded.  Protection from ground
current is enhanced by insulation from the ground -- another reason to park
yourself on the Thermarest.

For paddlers on the water, the upshot is:  Does not matter terribly much what
you wear or hold (excluding metal), so long as you do not form a "peak" in
your vicinity, and what you hold does not, either.

Of course, there is always the concept of sacrificing one of your taller
companions by coating him/her with aluminum dust and having that person stand
tall about 25 meters away ... but I digress.

On the water?  Just cower and low stroke to land -- on the water you are the
tallest thing around unless surrounded by sailboats or powerboats.

--
Dave Kruger
Astoria, OR
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From: Michael Daly <michaeldaly_at_rogers.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] lightening strikes
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 17:49:47 -0500
On 29 Oct 2003 at 6:42, Dave Kruger wrote:

> On the water?  Just cower and low stroke to land -- on the water you
> are the tallest thing around unless surrounded by sailboats or
> powerboats.

If paddling to shore is not reasonable and the lightning is close,
being able to stay in a balance brace means the highest thing will
be half the beam of your kayak.  However, if lighting stikes 
nearby, I don't know is surface currents in the water will get
you - is it like on land?

Mike
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From: PeterO <rebyl_kayak_at_iprimus.com.au>
subject: RE: [Paddlewise] lightening strikes
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 19:15:46 +1100
Mike wrote: -
>However, if lighting stikes nearby, I don't know
>is surface currents in the water will get you -
>is it like on land?

G'Day Mike,

I like the idea of the balanced brace, but how long could you keep in that
position? Longer than me I'll bet!

My take on this is theoretical and idealised so take it with many grains of
salt and I wouldn't recommend using it to guide your actions in a
thunderstorm or even to persuade yourself to get out of the boat or brace.
I'ld just get off the water if at all possible.

The "ground" potential near a lightning strike in the open sea would
possibly drop off faster with distance from the strike, than on land. If the
ground potential drops off faster then so too should ground currents.

In the sea surrounding the strike successive layers of ions and counterions
in the water might neutralise the field more rapidly than in soil where the
reduced ability of ions to move could limit this effect. In soil the energy
would be dissipated by other mechanisms such as ohmic heating, which
generally takes place over much greater distances.

However, if you were in the water between a strike and a large conductor, eg
a jetty, or a large boat, then you could be at risk from current flow
between the strike and the conductor. One reason for this would be that the
conductor could electrolyse ions which could flow between the conductor and
the strike and disrupt the polarisation layers.

Would really like to be corrected on any of this if people can see flaws in
the reasoning.


All the best, PeterO
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From: Grant Glazer <grantglazer_at_clear.net.nz>
subject: [Paddlewise] Waterproof Digitals
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 21:45:05 +1300
I am looking at getting a waterproof digital camera.  One that takes my eye
is the Pentax Optio 33WR
http://www.dpreview.com/news/0309/03090301pentax33wr.asp At face value it
looks like an ideal camera for paddling, but has anybody else used one?  I
would like to hear an independent review from a kayaking perspective.

Cheers
Grant
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From: Nick Schade <nick_at_guillemot-kayaks.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Waterproof Digitals
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 08:27:15 -0500
I don't know about the Pentax, although it seems to be billed as "water 
resistant". I have a Canon S300 with a Canon made waterproof housing. 
This works very well, I've had it dragging in the water beside the boat 
after being tossed around in surf and it is hold up well. The housing 
is relatively inexpensive and provides full access to all controls. The 
S300 is an old model now, but newer models such as the S400 have 
similar housings available.
Nick

On Friday, October 31, 2003, at 03:45  AM, Grant Glazer wrote:

> I am looking at getting a waterproof digital camera.  One that takes 
> my eye
> is the Pentax Optio 33WR
> http://www.dpreview.com/news/0309/03090301pentax33wr.asp At face value 
> it
> looks like an ideal camera for paddling, but has anybody else used 
> one?  I
> would like to hear an independent review from a kayaking perspective.
Nick Schade

Guillemot Kayaks
824 Thompson St
Glastonbury, CT 06033
USA
Ph/Fx: (860) 659-8847
http://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/
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From: Michael Daly <michaeldaly_at_rogers.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Waterproof Digitals
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 09:07:21 -0500
On 31 Oct 2003 at 21:45, Grant Glazer wrote:

> I am looking at getting a waterproof digital camera.  One that takes
> my eye is the Pentax Optio 33WR
> http://www.dpreview.com/news/0309/03090301pentax33wr.asp At face value
> it looks like an ideal camera for paddling, but has anybody else used
> one? 

Wow, that looks like a good little camera!

I have no experience with that one, but Amie has the Pentax 105WR 
film camera.  It has proven to be watertight under paddling 
conditions over the years.  Pentax has proven their ability to make a 
camera that can handle water.  

The JIS7 rating (1m depth for 30 min) on this digital camera means it 
should hold up to splashing and even rolling.  

I have a Canon A40 with underwater housing.  The advantage of the 
housing is that it provides physical protection for the camera.  The 
big disadvantage is that the housing is quite bulky and doesn't fit 
anywhere.  This Pentax, OTOH, at roughly 3x3x1.25 inch should fit 
into some PFD pockets and into knee tubes or other storage areas.  
Unless underwater photography is a priority, I wouldn't worry about 
getting this camera for Kayaking.  Pentax's reputation in this area 
is sufficient for me.  I'd judge it on the photographic performance 
alone.

Mike
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From: Geoff Jennings <geoff_at_texaskilonewton.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Waterproof Digitals
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 07:54:52 -0800
Some sample pictures have been posted over at www.boatertalk.com, here's one
sample set http://www.newdawnimaging.com/NRG%2010_26/index.htm

Apparently it was taken on a rainy day, but it should give some idea how the
camera works.

Geoff
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From: Chuck Holst <cholst_at_bitstream.net>
subject: RE: [Paddlewise] Waterproof Digitals
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 09:15:29 -0600
According to the press release, the Pentax Optio 33WR should be released 
right about . . . NOW! So I doubt anyone on the list has had an opportunity 
to use one yet. But if it has the same water resistance as the Pentax IQ 
105WR, it should be a winner, especially considering Pentax will display it 
submerged in water.

Chuck Holst
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From: Dave Kruger <kdruger_at_pacifier.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Waterproof Digitals
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 08:23:02 -0800
Grant Glazer <grantglazer_at_clear.net.nz> wrote:

>> I am looking at getting a waterproof digital camera.  One that takes my
eye
is the Pentax Optio 33WR
http://www.dpreview.com/news/0309/03090301pentax33wr.asp At face value it
looks like an ideal camera for paddling, but has anybody else used one?  I
would like to hear an independent review from a kayaking perspective. >>

No experience with it.  But, the rating is the same one for "waterproof"
VHF's (some failures noted in some models of VHF's), I believe.  About as
good as you'll get, short of a full-on dive camera.  Same rating as Pentax's
discontinued Zoom 90-WR (see below)

No price mentioned in the review, but bundled with ACDSee (easy to use, quick
editing/image manipulation software) could be a good value for someone
wanting to dive into digital with a paddling focus [yerk yerk].

As a comparison, I've been using an Olympus D-520 Zoom (2 megapixels) which
uses an f 2.8 - 4.9 zoom lens, but is not waterproof.  I carry it inside a
Pelican Micro Case (Model 1020) which just fits the camera.  [Note:  the
seals on these small boxes are subject to compression:  store the box open
and check its integrity with am immersion event sans camera.]  Clipped to a
deck line, it's pretty quick, but not as quick as a camera that can sit naked
on the deck.  Picture quality on my Olympus seems limited by the number of
pixels, and/or camera shake inherent to taking pictures from a bobbing kayak,
not the lens.  But, at 3.2 megapixels, could be the lens becomes limiting in
image quality.

No connection to Pentax (or any merchandising of camera gear), but this looks
like a good choice:  very compact, decent zoom, and ACDSee bundled with it.
I love my old Pentax Zoom 90-WR, which is a better choice for better-quality
photos (lens limited, definitely), but the Optio 33WR would be a much better
snapshot choice, in digital, anyway.

Buy it, Grant, and report back (I'll chip in twenty bucks!).

--
Dave Kruger
Astoria, OR
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From: Kirk Olsen <kork4_at_cluemail.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Waterproof Digitals
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 11:53:07 -0500
On Fri, 31 Oct 2003 08:23:02 -0800, "Dave Kruger" <kdruger_at_pacifier.com>
said:
> Grant Glazer <grantglazer_at_clear.net.nz> wrote:
> 
> >> I am looking at getting a waterproof digital camera.  One that takes my
> eye
> is the Pentax Optio 33WR
> http://www.dpreview.com/news/0309/03090301pentax33wr.asp At face value it
> looks like an ideal camera for paddling, but has anybody else used one? 
> No price mentioned in the review,

$349.99 (USD) apparent list price.

http://www.digitalcamera-hq.com/pentax-optio-33wr-reviews.html
claimed a (somewhere on the web) low price last week of $289
-- 
  Kirk Olsen
  kork4_at_cluemail.com
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From: Kirby Stevens <K_Stevens_at_telus.net>
subject: RE: [Paddlewise] Waterproof Digitals
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 09:49:21 -0800
[Moderator's Note: Content unaltered. Excessive quoting (including  
headers/footers/sig lines/extraneous text from previous posts, etc.) 
have been removed. Please edit quoted material in addition to removing 
header/trailers when replying to posts.]

> Grant Glazer <grantglazer_at_clear.net.nz> wrote:
>
> >> I am looking at getting a waterproof digital camera.  One that takes my
> eye
> is the Pentax Optio 33WR
> http://www.dpreview.com/news/0309/03090301pentax33wr.asp At face value it
> looks like an ideal camera for paddling, but has anybody else used one?

Yes, I checked out the camera.

They say it is water resistant, not waterproof and resolution is only 3.2
megs.

Not really that great if you want quality pictures.

Kirby


www.CoastalWatersRec.com <http://www.CoastalWatersRec.com>
every trip, a new adventure!
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From: Bob Denton <bdenton_at_soytek.com>
subject: RE: [Paddlewise] Waterproof Digitals
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 10:00:15 -0500
 I just purchased a waterproof housing for my Olympus 5050. I paid less than
$150, and while bulkier than a water resistant camera, it is good to 130
feet and has all the functions of the camera accessible through the housing.
In addition, it floats unless the included weight is attached.

Olympus has inexpensive housing for most of their digitals.

cu
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From: Geoff Jennings <geoff_at_texaskilonewton.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Waterproof Digitals
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 08:56:36 -0800
> Buy it, Grant, and report back (I'll chip in twenty bucks!).
>
> --
> Dave Kruger
> Astoria, OR


If I can get 10 of you to make the same pledge, I promise to write a VERY
full review.....

Geoff
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From: Keith Wrage <keith.wrage_at_charter.net>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Waterproof Digitals
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 14:54:05 -0600
If you are looking for reviews of digital cameras (some that are 
waterproof, some with housings, some just regular cameras) - I'd suggest 
looking at these two sites:

http://www.steves-digicams.com/  (looks a bit hokey but good info)

http://www.imaging-resource.com/

No connection with either - just find their info accurate and thorough when 
it comes to digital cameras.  Both provide many pages of info including 
comparison images (same shot) for each camera.  The 2nd site gets more 
technical.  Both have 'summary' pages for each camera if you want the short 
version.

Here's another link to sites specializing in underwater digital photography 
equipment:
http://www.steves-digicams.com/digresources.html#uw

Keith
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From: Michael Daly <michaeldaly_at_rogers.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Waterproof Digitals
Date: Sat, 01 Nov 2003 00:20:19 -0500
On 31 Oct 2003 at 14:54, Keith Wrage wrote:


> Here's another link to sites specializing in underwater digital
> photography equipment:
> http://www.steves-digicams.com/digresources.html#uw

Bill Tuthill, a r.b.p regular has maintained a list of cameras that 
are suitable for paddling.

http://creekin.net/cameras.htm

Unfortunately, he doesn't seem to have updated it in a while.

Mike
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From: alex <al.m_at_3web.net>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Waterproof 35 mm (was: Digital)
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 10:44:36 -0800
> No connection to Pentax (or any merchandising of camera gear), but this
looks
> like a good choice:  very compact, decent zoom, and ACDSee bundled with
it.
> I love my old Pentax Zoom 90-WR, which is a better choice for
better-quality
> photos (lens limited, definitely), but the Optio 33WR would be a much
better
> snapshot choice, in digital, anyway.
>

It is hard to beat Pentax WR90 (or even its successor - don't remember, is
it WR 95?) in a bang-for-the-buck papameter.  90-s are discontinued - good!
I've got mine used for $70, and had occasion to dunk it into water, which
didn't affect performance.  Optical features are very good too. Next WR
model has some minor drawbacks - again, don't remember whether it is lens
aperture or somethins else, - but still should be fine for that price (200
or so).
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From: Geoff Jennings <geoff_at_texaskilonewton.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Waterproof 35 mm (was: Digital)
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 16:09:40 -0800
> It is hard to beat Pentax WR90 (or even its successor - don't remember, is
> it WR 95?) in a bang-for-the-buck papameter.

I just got a WR90 for about $32 on ebay.  I've only put one roll of film
through it, but I'm impressed so far, and considering that's the price of
2-3 disposables that I've been using in the kayak, it's hard to go wrong.

Geoff
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From: Grant Glazer <grantglazer_at_clear.net.nz>
subject: RE: [Paddlewise] Waterproof Digital
Date: Sat, 01 Nov 2003 14:10:53 +1300
Thanks everybody,

I have been using a WR105 for the last few years now and can't fault it
apart from being slightly bulky (less then the 90WR though) and having to
wait for the film to be used up before developing.  The Optio 33WR caught my
eye since it is Pentax's digital version of the WR105 and had the same water
resistant rating.

I brought the WR105 after reading all the comments on Paddlewise and I
figured I should do the same for the digital.  Again thanks and now I just
have do the tough part and hand over the plastic card !

Cheers
Grant
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From: Kirby Stevens <K_Stevens_at_telus.net>
subject: RE: [Paddlewise] Waterproof Digitals
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 08:58:16 -0800
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> Grant queried:
> I am looking at getting a waterproof digital camera.  One that takes my eye
> is the Pentax Optio 33WR
> http://www.dpreview.com/news/0309/03090301pentax33wr.asp At face value it
> looks like an ideal camera for paddling, but has anybody else used one? 
> would like to hear an independent review from a kayaking perspective.

Another digital camera that is waterproof or has a housing is the Sony
Cybershot.    You can purchase a waterproof housing for any of their
cybershot cameras and can go down to a depth of 30ft.   But who cares about
that.

Does work very well though it is extra.

This is what I have and it works very well.

Kirby


www.CoastalWatersRec.com <http://www.CoastalWatersRec.com>
every trip, a new adventure!
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From: Keith Wrage <keith.wrage_at_charter.net>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Waterproof Digitals
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 19:49:22 -0600
Has anyone tried the Sony DSCU-60 - roughly $250?  Only 2 megapixels but 
for on-screen use - and prints up to 4x6 it would be fine.  Neat little 
package, appears shaped to fit in PFD pockets well - also handy one-hand 
operation.
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/specs/Sony/sony_dscu60.asp

K
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From: Michael Daly <michaeldaly_at_rogers.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Waterproof Digitals
Date: Sat, 01 Nov 2003 00:20:19 -0500
On 31 Oct 2003 at 19:49, Keith Wrage wrote:

> Has anyone tried the Sony DSCU-60 - roughly $250?  

Never used it, but perusing the spec sheet at the link shows it uses 
AAA batteries.  The best NiMH AAA are only 750 mAh or about one third 
the capacity of AA.  That will make for fewer shots - I'm guessing 
about 100 per charge compared to the 300+ my Canon gets.  Minor nit 
if you don't like carrying lots of batteries.

The flash seems mediocre even by digital point and shoot standards.  
The other thing is the fixed focal length at 33mm effective - that's 
a relatively wide angle.  With only 2 Mpixels, you won't have much 
room for blowing up to recover to the equivalent of a longer lens.

Nice try Sony, but I'd keep looking.  

Mike
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From: Ally Pike <ally_at_thepikes.org>
subject: RE: [Paddlewise] Waterproof Digitals
Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 02:10:31 -0500
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> Keith asked:
> Has anyone tried the Sony DSCU-60 - roughly $250?  Only 2 megapixels but 
> for on-screen use - and prints up to 4x6 it would be fine.  Neat little 
> package, appears shaped to fit in PFD pockets well - also handy one-hand 
> operation.
> http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/specs/Sony/sony_dscu60.asp

If your looking for an under $300 Waterproof Digital Camera you might want
to take a look at the Sealife SL121 Reefmaster DC200 it's 2megapixels and
you could also use it for underwater use as well if you're into diving or
think you might drop it for an extended trip in the water.

I purchased it online after seeing pictures and reviews for under $300
including shipping and extended warranty.  I still use my 4megapixel in calm
conditions where I can stop and take it out of my deck bag, but I always
have this camera right on my deck ready for a quick picture.   I love that
it will take the rechargeable AA batteries I already have and uses compact
flash cards so I don't have to worry about running out of room on long
trips.  

Only 2 drawbacks... 

1. When water gets on it, I have to have something to wipe it with, I need
to start carrying a cleaning cloth as I don't paddle with any natural fabric
on me.. making it hard to clean off. 

2. If you are not fairly still you may not get a sharp picture, I am glad
for auto preview so I can see if I got the picture I wanted.  This problem I
find happens with most cameras out there and not many people mention it,
even the other digital cameras I own do this unless I start manually
modifying my settings.

If you want to see some example of paddling pictures I posted a few
unmodified ones (so these are exactly what the camera takes)
http://www.thepikes.org/paddlewise/

or feel free to email me as I have plenty more.

*Ally
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From: Paul Moorehead <pjm_at_sos.net>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Waterproof Digitals
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 19:27:52 -0800
another handy reference:

http://www.pricescan.com/digiphoto/scripts/Q08010100.asp

usual disclaimers apply.

Paul
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From: <rmagill9_at_netscape.net>
subject: RE: [Paddlewise] Waterproof Digitals
Date: Sat, 01 Nov 2003 02:22:10 -0500
Grant Glazer <grantglazer_at_clear.net.nz> wrote:

>I am looking at getting a waterproof digital camera.  One that takes my eye
>is the Pentax Optio 33WR
>http://www.dpreview.com/news/0309/03090301pentax33wr.asp At face value it
>looks like an ideal camera for paddling, but has anybody else used one?  I
>would like to hear an independent review from a kayaking perspective.

I drive a truck and don't get to read my paddlewise threads very much, so I hope I'm not just repeating something others have already said, But have you looked at getting a regular camera, and then purchasing a waterproof bag for it.  

There are two very good reasons for this: First, a waterproof bag is also sand proof, and, if there is anything more detrimental to a camera than water, its sand.  Second, It opens up your options for cameras.  I really wanted a camera with a high optical zoom, and, at least when I was looking, I couldn't find any water proof camera's that fit that bill.  I choose the Olympus C-700 (I think that serires is up to the 750 now) digital with 10x optical zoom, and got a bag for it. With this combo, I've taken some really great pics on my kayaking trips.

The two companies that I know about that make water proof bags for cameras that you can take a picture through is Aquapac (www.aquapac.net) and Ewa-marine (www.ewa-marine.com) Aquapac makes two sizes, and one of the two fits most non SLR cameras.  They are light weight, very reliable, and degrades the picture quality very little as long as you make sure the bag is tight against the lens while taking the pic.  The company also has excellant customer service.  Its disadvantage is that you can't use a flash through it.  

If you want to get a little more expensive, you can go with an Ewa-marine case (as far as I know this is your only option if you have an SLR camera), that has a glass lens to take the pic through.  these bags are generally fairly specific to a type of camera, so you would need to make sure they have one for the type of camera that you want to buy, but the company has a fairly wide selection, so chances are good that they have one that fits what ever camera you choose whether it is digital or conventional, SLR or point and Shoot.  The biggest disadvantage to these bags (other than price - you could easily pay as much or more for the bag as you do for the camera) is there bulkiness.  

On a side note - if you're willing to spend this much, I think the Olumpus C-750 is a great camera for kayaking. Namely because it is such a small camera to have a 10x Optical Zoom.  You will appreciate that much zoom the first time you try to take a pic of some sort of wild life that you either can't or would prefer not to get very close to, but still want to be able to tell what it is later :-)  It has plenty of other great features to appreciate as well though.
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From: Ally Pike <ally_at_thepikes.org>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Waterproof Digitals
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 09:39:47 -0500
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rmagill9_at_netscape.net wrote:

> But have you
> looked at getting a regular camera, and then purchasing a waterproof bag for
> it.  

I have the Aquapac and it is plastic.  I tried using it while in calm
conditions down a river and the plastic would not stay straight and kept
distorting.  It was also quite difficult to keep the plastic completely smudge
free when water got on it.  If you were going to go with a bag make sure it
has glass for the lense.  Unless you already have a digital camera you want to
use with it the EWA ones the cost can get pretty high as they start at just
under $100 and run up to and over $400.
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From: <rmagill9_at_netscape.net>
subject: RE: [Paddlewise] Waterproof Digitals
Date: Sat, 01 Nov 2003 02:22:10 -0500
Grant Glazer <grantglazer_at_clear.net.nz> wrote:

>I am looking at getting a waterproof digital camera.  One that takes my eye
>is the Pentax Optio 33WR
>http://www.dpreview.com/news/0309/03090301pentax33wr.asp At face value it
>looks like an ideal camera for paddling, but has anybody else used one?  I
>would like to hear an independent review from a kayaking perspective.

I drive a truck and don't get to read my paddlewise threads very much, so I hope I'm not just repeating something others have already said, But have you looked at getting a regular camera, and then purchasing a waterproof bag for it.  

There are two very good reasons for this: First, a waterproof bag is also sand proof, and, if there is anything more detrimental to a camera than water, its sand.  Second, It opens up your options for cameras.  I really wanted a camera with a high optical zoom, and, at least when I was looking, I couldn't find any water proof camera's that fit that bill.  I choose the Olympus C-700 (I think that serires is up to the 750 now) digital with 10x optical zoom, and got a bag for it. With this combo, I've taken some really great pics on my kayaking trips.

The two companies that I know about that make water proof bags for cameras that you can take a picture through is Aquapac (www.aquapac.net) and Ewa-marine (www.ewa-marine.com) Aquapac makes two sizes, and one of the two fits most non SLR cameras.  They are light weight, very reliable, and degrades the picture quality very little as long as you make sure the bag is tight against the lens while taking the pic.  The company also has excellant customer service.  Its disadvantage is that you can't use a flash through it.  

If you want to get a little more expensive, you can go with an Ewa-marine case (as far as I know this is your only option if you have an SLR camera), that has a glass lens to take the pic through.  these bags are generally fairly specific to a type of camera, so you would need to make sure they have one for the type of camera that you want to buy, but the company has a fairly wide selection, so chances are good that they have one that fits what ever camera you choose whether it is digital or conventional, SLR or point and Shoot.  The biggest disadvantage to these bags (other than price - you could easily pay as much or more for the bag as you do for the camera) is there bulkiness.  

On a side note - if you're willing to spend this much, I think the Olumpus C-750 is a great camera for kayaking. Namely because it is such a small camera to have a 10x Optical Zoom.  You will appreciate that much zoom the first time you try to take a pic of some sort of wild life that you either can't or would prefer not to get very close to, but still want to be able to tell what it is later :-)  It has plenty of other great features to appreciate as well though.
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From: <jkayak_at_sopoint.com>
subject: RE: [Paddlewise] Waterproof Digitals
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 14:27:01 -0500
>They say it is water resistant, not waterproof and resolution is only 3.2 
>megs. 
>
>Not really that great if you want quality pictures. 

Kirby,

Not sure if I agree with the above. 3.2 MP is more than enough to take
great photos providing the camera is high-quality. According to all that
I've read about digital photography, unless the aim is to produce prints
larger than 8"x10", an increase in pixel resolution is hardly discernible.
Of course I'm not a professional phtographer. 

I have been using a Canon A70 w/ marine case while kayaking throughout the
summer. I have found the quality of pictures to be excellent. The camera
has been easy to use and comes with quality software. It also offers a
great deal of manual control, although I must admit that I most often use
the automatic setting. 

The one drawback of this camera for paddling is size. It's a bit larger
than the smaller compacts and when inside the marine case just doesn't seem
to fit anywhere. 

That said, another size factor to consider is that some people are just not
able to comfortably use the smallest of the cameras (especially while
paddling.) The Canon S400 is an excellent camera but I didn't feel
comfortable holding it in one hand (which was one of my criteria). 

The Canon marine cases can be had for less than $200.

Regards,
Jeff
jkayak_at_sopoint.com
http://mail2web.com/ .
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From: Donald Schoengold <schoengold_at_earthlink.net>
subject: RE: [Paddlewise] Waterproof Digitals
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 16:49:19 -0800
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>Jeff commented:
>According to all that
>I've read about digital photography, unless the aim is to produce prints
>larger than 8"x10", an increase in pixel resolution is hardly discernible.

This may be true as long as you do not use your photo editing software to do
any cropping.  If you crop your pictures to improve them, the required pixel
count can increase significantly.

DON
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From: WhiteRabbit <whiterabbit_0117_at_charter.net>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Waterproof Digitals
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 16:09:46 -0600
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When you are grabbing shots in a moving kayak framing isn't always what you
would do on dry land with a tripod.   Usually you grab a larger image than
what you really want and then crop it in the computer.  The part of the
image that I actually use is frequently half or less of what I shot.  The
vast expanse of the outdoors also leads to quite a bit of cropping.  With
the 105 - 115 mm max focal length of most compact cameras it is sometimes
hard to get close enough to what you are shooting to fill the viewfinder.

That being said, I use a Canon S30 with Canon housing and have no complaints
with the image quality even after cropping.  This is a 3.2 MP camera.

Images of my backcountry Yellowstone trip on Shoshone Lake are at
http://www.siue.edu/~rwashbu/Page.html  These were all taken with the
camera.
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From: Carey Parks <cparks_at_fuse.net>
subject: RE: [Paddlewise] lightening strikes
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 11:15:50 -0500
" This is probably what happened to the kayakers
in the cave/bunker.  Other incidents of injuries and deaths to persons
taking
shelter in a cave on a hillside have been recorded.  Protection from ground
current is enhanced by insulation from the ground -- another reason to park
yourself on the Thermarest."

Agreed Dave, just to reinforce your point, the accepted posture to assume
when sitting out an electrical storm in a cave or overhang while
climing/mountianeering is to stay away from the walls and sit on your pack,
rope or other non-metal gear - completely - don't lean on the rock, and keep
your legs and feet up as well. Given the choice, the current traveling
through the wet rock above will encounter the dry gap of the cave/overhang
and look for the path of least resistance, which would be you if you are in
the circuit. So stay out of the circuit.

If a cave is not available, you should sit on your pack a few feet away from
the wall (out of the path of a strike from above), but not too many feet (no
specifics given) to avoid becomming the highest local object.

Another interesting tid bit to illustrate the contra-intuitive nature of
electricity: When the local power company came to service the transformer in
my yard, the guy first blew up his thick rubber gloves with a breath of air
and held them tightly closed while squeezing, checking for even a pin hole
in the rubber. Give electricity a micro-inch and it will take your life.


Carey
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From: ralph diaz <rdiaz_at_ix.netcom.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] lightening strikes
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 08:14:07 -0500
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Kruger" <kdruger_at_pacifier.com>

> Nick Schade <nick_at_guillemot-kayaks.com> put it well, and succinctly:
>
> >> Lightening generally passes through thousands of feet of air between
> the cloud and the ground. Air is a excellent insulator. Don't be under
> the impression that a fraction of an inch of plastic, wood or
> fiberglass will effect the lightening in any manner>>  [much snipped]
>
> I no longer have the post I made a month ago or so detailing how the local
> electric potential influences ___where__  lightning strikes.  That is
perhaps
> the main way to decrease your risk:  avoid places, postures, and gear that
> will enhance the chance lightning will strike on you or near you.  As Nick
> says, the "insulating" value of anything you might have about won't help
you
> __if lightning strikes you__.  But, you can do something about __not__
being
> the place where lightning strikes.

I did some research on this about 10 years ago for my newsletter, looking at
articles and interviewing NOAA people and the US Coast Guard as well as
talking with some kayaking gurus.

What seems to have emerged as an area to avoid is an immediate band on
either side of an open shoreline, such as a beach.  No consensus of how wide
the band but certainly 50 to 100 yardson both sides of the water's edge.  It
had something to do with this area being a transition zone.  So the advice
was that if you feel you can't make it to shore without getting caught in
that zone then to just stay out in the water beyond it.  If you can get into
shore and further inland especially among a thick stand of trees then that
would be you best bet.  At that point do all the good things suggested such
as with cavers and mountain travelers, i.e. crouch down low on your feet or
knees and hunker down with your arms tucked in low and your head lowered and
be on your spread out PFD for some level of insulation.  (we once did this
on a paddle when lightning started striking in the vicinity.  There we were
a group of about a dozen paddlers keeping some separation between us and
with all our asses almost pointing up to the sky.  Someone who was oblivious
to the danger of lightning came wandering down the path and must have
thought it was some religious cult or strange people plucking worms from the
ground a la what birds do. :-)

There was also some discussion by the experts (who all admitted that nothing
about lightning was truly predictable) that if in a boat you can create a
zone of security.  Basically the area that is reasonably secure is the
radius of a circle half the height of a grounded pole or mast at its center.
The grounding would be a copper wire hanging over the side (or through the
bottom of the boat) at some depth into the water.  I am not certain how well
it would work in a pitching kayak where the wire could come out of the
water.  However, just having a kayak under sail with a mast way up there in
the sky and not grounded would not be a good idea.

Oh, BTW, if you were to find yourself out in the open on shore in that band
area mentioned above and had no time to make it further into shore, lying
prone or inside your kayak would be better than nothing.

ralph diaz--
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Ralph Diaz . . . Folding Kayaker newsletter
PO Box 1365, Highland, NY 12528
Tel: 845-255-7742; E-mail: rdiaz_at_ix.netcom.com
"Where's your sea kayak?"----"It's in the bag."
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From: PeterO <rebyl_kayak_at_iprimus.com.au>
subject: RE: [Paddlewise] lightening strikes
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 07:06:59 +1100
Ralph wrote:-
>What seems to have emerged as an area to avoid
>is an immediate band on either side of an open
>shoreline, such as a beach.

G'Day Ralph,

I wondered about the zone near the shore. One might expect to see evidence
such as molten sand patches or an increased frequency of stricken trees at
the shore edge. As many trees in Australia show evidence of burning this
would be hard to assess over here. Did the argument apply to rivers as well
or just open water?

All the best, PeterO
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From: Dave Kruger <kdruger_at_pacifier.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] lightening strikes
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 11:21:02 -0800
Michael Daly" <michaeldaly_at_rogers.com> wrote:

>> If paddling to shore is not reasonable and the lightning is close,
being able to stay in a balance brace means the highest thing will
be half the beam of your kayak.  However, if lighting stikes 
nearby, I don't know is surface currents in the water will get
you - is it like on land? >>

I don't know.  I suspect yes, but wonder if anyone has done testing of this.

--
Dave Kruger
Astoria, OR
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From: Joe Pylka <jpylka_at_earthlink.net>
subject: RE: [Paddlewise] lightening strikes
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 16:42:51 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
>>. One might expect to see evidence
such as molten sand patches or an increased frequency of stricken trees at
the shore edge. As many trees in Australia show evidence of burning this
would be hard to assess over here. 

  Lightning often hits beaches, and the intense heat often produces melted sand (i.e. glass) tubes called fulgurites.  There is a huge one in the Museum of Natural History in NYC which spreads out and branches to a depth of about 6 feet and maybe 10 or more across.  I don't know whether it's still on exhibit, and I have seen fulgurite fragments in other museums.

Joe P.
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From: PeterO <rebyl_kayak_at_iprimus.com.au>
subject: RE: [Paddlewise] lightening strikes
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 18:34:04 +1100
Joe wrote: -
>Lightning often hits beaches, and the intense heat
>often produces melted sand (i.e. glass) tubes called
>fulgurites.

G'Day Joe,

Is the colloquial name "sand dollars" I seem to remember a John Steinbeck
story in which beach sand melted by lightning strikes is mentioned and for
some reason the phrase "sand dollars" springs to mind.

All the best, PeterO
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From: Jochen Grikschat <grikschat_at_web.de>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] lightening strikes - fulgurites
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 08:34:14 +0100
>   Lightning often hits beaches, and the intense heat often produces melted
sand (i.e. glass) tubes called fulgurites.

Once I saw a TV-docu about a group of scientists in the southwest US (??),
in an area where much lightning takes place. hey got prepared sand banks and
all around lightning rods and study the structure of these fulgurites.
Lightning scientifics.
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From: Carey Parks <cparks_at_fuse.net>
subject: RE: [Paddlewise] lightening strikes
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 09:10:13 -0500
[Moderator's Note: Content unaltered. Excessive quoting (including  
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> PeterO queried:
>Joe wrote: -
>>Lightning often hits beaches, and the intense heat
>>often produces melted sand (i.e. glass) tubes called
>>fulgurites.
>
>Is the colloquial name "sand dollars" I seem to remember a John Steinbeck
>story in which beach sand melted by lightning strikes is mentioned and for
>some reason the phrase "sand dollars" springs to mind.

The sand dollar is Echinarachnius parma. See 

http://octopus.gma.org/Tidings/sanddollar.html

C
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