[Paddlewise] A Challenging Day

I have been looking forward to what I consider the start of a new kayak
surfing season with anticipation and trepidation, so when Duane Strosaker
called me for a last minute San O session, I was in.

We hit the beach around noon and compared to my few other trips here, the
place was deserted. No where close to the number of surfers that had been
there in the past. There was one group of paddle boarders resting on the
beach, as I unloaded and one of them turned out to be Greg, late of Aqua
Adventures, who knew Duane.

Before summer, we had hit San O a few times and I was starting to get in
shape for all the sprinting needed to catch waves and get back out through
the break; I knew after taking the summer off, today was going to be a
challenge. Also, on top of the rubbish heap of all my broken paddles lies
any confidence I once had in my roll, which only makes surfing more
difficult. Last time I took the Delfin out for practice, I had a lot of
success rolling with my big bladed paddle, but that was then and I haven't
had any real practice with the paddles I have left. My hope was to keep my
bottom facing the fishes.

Duane headed out without a concern, while I watched a rather nasty shore
break for a lull. I surprised myself making it out without any trouble and
headed for deep water. The waves seemed rather large and I paddled hard to
avoid getting mashed on my first trip out. When I made it past the inner
breakers, I was able to rest and amuse myself by watching my hands shaking
like a leaf.

A guy my size in the Delfin is not going to have a lot of success trying to
surf small waves; just too much inertia to overcome. I decided taking one of
the big waves was the best way to warm up and my first was a pretty decent
ride. But with the bigger waves, I have to fight to keep the Delfin from
purling, while with the smaller waves, I have to wait so late in wave
formation that the first contact can be rather rude. After a few decent
rides, I found myself manhandled and upside down and didn't even try to set
up for a roll. Duane came over and after a few waves rumbled through, gave
me a bow for a reentry roll. Now I was right side up, but still 3 inches
under water. I put on my spray skirt as my electric pump pumped out my
cockpit. I held on to Duane's boat as long as I could, but a big set rolled
in and he had to high tail it. I was fighting to keep my boat upright long
enough for the pump to do it's thing while water continued to pour in
through my pathetic spray skirt. Talk about bracing practice! Each wave
passing by set me back again, but Duane kept telling me I was getting
higher. Finally I got it down to a reasonable level, but thought I'd head to
shore to drain it all out and start over. On the way in,  Duane was
frantically telling me to look out for a wave behind me, but there was
nothing I could do. The wave broke before it got to me and I braced to try
to ride the whitewater, but it hit me hard and I was headed in every
direction but up. Somehow, after the wave passed I popped up upright, but
without my paddle and with more waves on the way, I gave up turned upside
down and wet exited to swim the boat to shore--a story in it's own right.

I was beat and washed up on shore like a castaway. I needed a lot of rest
before I could even think of going out again. I sat on the beach and watched
Duane ride the waves in his Mini Benny like a pro. There were a few people
out on paddle skis, but they didn't look nearly as impressive or majestic as
Duane in his sea kayak.

I had had enough for the day, but couldn't leave on such a sour note, so I
headed out for one more sortie. I felt better paddling out the second time;
as if I'd washed out all the jitters on my swim. I got on a few more waves,
without much success and we called it a day. Besides my rolling worries, I
think I have to face the fact that I'm just too big for the Delfin. With
smaller wave of good shape, I can get good rides, but when things heat up
there's just not enough volume to keep me up. Guess I could lose 50 lbs, but
I think I might be better off looking for a higher volume boat to surf in.
And if anyone knows where to buy a titanium paddle, let me know.

Mark Sanders
www.sandmarks.net
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