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From: Steve Holtzman <sh_at_actglobal.net>
subject: [Paddlewise] Wierd Shoals or Beating Dumpy
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 13:01:53 -0700
Yesterday, five of us set off on a harbor to harbor paddle and return from
Channel Islands Harbor in Oxnard, CA to Ventura Harbor in Ventura, CA. As we
exited the Channel Islands Harbor, we went through an area of shoals that we
frequently like to play in. Yesterday, the water conditions were completely
different than anything I have everseen.

 

Fellow Paddlewiser Patrick Martin was several yards behind me in one of his
Valley Boats. I don't remember if it was his Pintail or Avocet. Anyway, out
of nowhere, a breaking wave hit both of us on our left side. I immediately
braced into it and was soon side surfing (as was Patrick). Out of the corner
of my eye, I caught a glimpse of something on my right and found there was a
breaking wave coming at me from that side too. Now my dilemma was "which
side do I brace and edge towards?" Somehow, I managed to switch sides just
as the other wave hit me.

 

A big "whoo hoo" and a couple of paddle strokes and I was out of it. Patrick
and I were both laughing and we both thought we heard Dumpy saying, "wait
'til next time."

 

Has anybody else ever been in ocean conditions where waves were breaking on
you from two directions at once?

 

Steve Holtzman
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From: <rcgibbert_at_aol.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Wierd Shoals or Beating Dumpy
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 18:46:07 -0400
Yes, a few times. Usually it involved waves scissoring from 45 degree angles. I almost back looped once. On another occasion I was preparing to hop over the pile of an inbound breaker and one came in from the beam and broke on top of me. After the big brace I was back surfed a bit. Shrugged my shoulders and went on my way. Sounds like you had an interesting time.

Cheers,

Rob G


-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Holtzman <sh_at_actglobal.net>
To: 'paddlewise' <paddlewise_at_paddlewise.net>
Sent: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 1:01 pm
Subject: [Paddlewise] Wierd Shoals or Beating Dumpy



Yesterday, five of us set off on a harbor to harbor paddle and return from
Channel Islands Harbor in Oxnard, CA to Ventura Harbor in Ventura, CA. As we
exited the Channel Islands Harbor, we went through an area of shoals that we
frequently like to play in. Yesterday, the water conditions were completely
different than anything I have everseen.

 

Fellow Paddlewiser Patrick Martin was several yards behind me in one of his
Valley Boats. I don't remember if it was his Pintail or Avocet. Anyway, out
of nowhere, a breaking wave hit both of us on our left side. I immediately
braced into it and was soon side surfing (as was Patrick). Out of the corner
of my eye, I caught a glimpse of something on my right and found there was a
breaking wave coming at me from that side too. Now my dilemma was "which
side do I brace and edge towards?" Somehow, I managed to switch sides just
as the other wave hit me.

 

A big "whoo hoo" and a couple of paddle strokes and I was out of it. Patrick
and I were both laughing and we both thought we heard Dumpy saying, "wait
'til next time."

 

Has anybody else ever been in ocean conditions where waves were breaking on
you from two directions at once?

 

Steve Holtzman
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From: Brian Curtiss <bc_at_asdi.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Wierd Shoals or Beating Dumpy
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 17:09:15 -0600
We had similar conditions last summer just off the point of Cape  
Lookout in North Carolina.  The water shoals near the point, so any  
swell results in a line of breakers to the south of the point.  That  
day, swell from the east and south west combined for, what we called,  
"zipper waves."  You'd get launched into the air if you happen to be  
under the point of collision of two approaching waves.

Brian

On Jun 16, 2008, at 2:01 PM, Steve Holtzman wrote:
> Has anybody else ever been in ocean conditions where waves were  
> breaking on
> you from two directions at once?
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From: Scott Hilliard <kiayker_at_sbcglobal.net>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Wierd Shoals or Beating Dumpy
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 16:47:45 -0700
> Has anybody else ever been in ocean conditions where waves were breaking on
> you from two directions at once?

I believe that's called "clapotis." A great example of this is between 
the islands of Anacapa. The waves will actually refract around the small 
islets and meet the waves coming in from the ocean side. Another great 
place to encounter this is where waves are being reflected off of a sea 
wall or some sheer cliffs and bounced back into the incoming waves. I'm 
not quite sure from your description just what was going on in your 
case, but it's all great fun :-)

Scott
So.Cal.
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From: Steve Holtzman <sh_at_actglobal.net>
subject: RE: [Paddlewise] Wierd Shoals or Beating Dumpy
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 19:15:01 -0700
Scott said:

> I believe that's called "clapotis." A great example of this is between
> the islands of Anacapa. The waves will actually refract around the
> small
> islets 

This wasn't clapotis. I've been in the calpotis between the islands of
Anacapa and I've also played in the reflecting waves and resulting clapotis
off of sea walls.

Clapotis results when two wave crests come together to form a pyramid shaped
wave that basically just jumps straight up.

This was two *breaking* waves with a pile of whitewater in front of each. At
first I was side surfing to my right, then a while still riding that wave,
another wave pushing a pile of whitewater in front of it, was breaking on my
right side which forced me to actually start side surfing to my left.
Whatever it was called, it was exciting and fun.

Steve Holtzman
 

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From: Brian Curtiss <bc_at_asdi.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Wierd Shoals or Beating Dumpy
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 20:32:29 -0600
The colliding waves off Cape Lookout looked something like this:
http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/6931/wallpaperlj4.jpg

> This was two *breaking* waves with a pile of whitewater in front of  
> each. At
> first I was side surfing to my right, then a while still riding  
> that wave,
> another wave pushing a pile of whitewater in front of it, was  
> breaking on my
> right side which forced me to actually start side surfing to my left.
> Whatever it was called, it was exciting and fun.
>
> Steve Holtzman
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From: Steve Holtzman <sh_at_actglobal.net>
subject: RE: [Paddlewise] Wierd Shoals or Beating Dumpy
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 19:43:05 -0700
Brian,

 

Your picture is awesome! That to me is a classic picture of clapotis. Bet
you're glad you weren't right where the "haystack" came up. LOL

 

Steve Holtzman

 

From: Brian Curtiss [mailto:bc_at_asdi.com] 



 

The colliding waves off Cape Lookout looked something like this:

http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/6931/wallpaperlj4.jpg
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From: Dave Kruger <kdruger_at_pacifier.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Weird Shoals or Beating Dumpy
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 20:28:06 -0700
Clapotis, schmatopist.

What you choose to call colliding waves is moot; the phenomenon is the 
same.  Brian's spectacular photo illustrates one of the cool things about 
"back" body-surfing rebound off cliffs:  you get tossed into the air!  We 
used to do this with abandon, when the waves and tide were just right, off 
the cliffs at Solana Beach, CA.  For a body surfer, it is a lot safer than 
it looks, because there is a nice lull in between to regroup.  I don't 
think I have the balls to try it in my kayak, though.

We never told our parents about this.

-- 
Dave Kruger
Astoria, OR
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From: Doug Lloyd <douglloyd_at_shaw.ca>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Weird Shoals or Beating Dumpy
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 22:41:44 -0700
I go looking for this stuff - at least I used to once I had my Nordkapp 
dialed in for a perfect snug fit with my "knee tube." It was also important 
to wear a helmet as weird things happen you don't necessarily expect with 
shoals and such bottoming out quickly. Sandy bottoms often contain reeflets 
here and there.

There are some fantastic examples of separate wave trains colliding up near 
Cape Scott and North Brooks. You might have to wait for the right 
conditions, which often paddlers don't as they are on a tight, multiday 
schedule. At these spots you can surf over one side of the berm to open 
water on the other side, then suddenly another wave out of phase can surf 
you back over the berm to open water and more surf on the other side. 
Sometimes the two waves collide actually over the berm and if you are there, 
well, does it get any better for the jaded paddler? People, you haven't 
lived until you have tried this. Folks spend a fortune watching action 
movies all their lives or going to amusement park rides and even paying to 
go skydiving. With a little investment in a good boat and proper immersion 
apparel, you can be out playing in phenomenally outrageous conditions within 
an hour or even less on some coasts. I suppose you can have an adrenaline 
rush even quicker too by running across a busy highway, but hopefully you 
get my point.

I've also been knocked over unawares by these things while trying to find a 
landing in heavy surf behind an island where I thought it was going to be 
safe. Naa.

I was at the MEC Paddlefest in Victoria Sunday. Atlantis Kayaks has their 
new Spartan VI (Vancouver Island) prototype out now. Robin has done a 
fantastic job. The kayak is a classic hull, round bilge with shallow v, fine 
entry and exit lines, yet at 21" wide and 17' or so long, it is super fast 
_and_ super stable. It has a very low profile, yet good room for your feet. 
It tracks well, turns on a lean, has somewhat less rocker than some kayaks 
yet doesn't need a skeg. It is rock solid on edge unlike the Outer Island 
(another low profile kayak). I think I may have found my thrill on blueberry 
hill. Made here on Vancouver Island. I didn't even try out the Whisky 16, 
though clapotis seekers might benefit from a kayak with lots of bow 
buoyancy, including other designs for a perfect playboat. I'm going for low 
windage and a tight cockpit. Can't get that need for speed, need for 
high-wind performance out of my mind. We shall see. Clapotis and zipper 
waves here we come...

Doug Lloyd


> Clapotis, schmatopist.
>
> What you choose to call colliding waves is moot; the phenomenon is the 
> same.  Brian's spectacular photo illustrates one of the cool things about 
> "back" body-surfing rebound off cliffs:  you get tossed into the air!  We 
> used to do this with abandon, when the waves and tide were just right, off 
> the cliffs at Solana Beach, CA.  For a body surfer, it is a lot safer than 
> it looks, because there is a nice lull in between to regroup.  I don't 
> think I have the balls to try it in my kayak, though.
>
> We never told our parents about this.
>
> -- 
> Dave Kruger
> Astoria, OR
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From: James <jimtibensky_at_fastmail.fm>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Weird Shoals or Beating Dumpy
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 08:07:57 -0500
Doug Lloyd said:

There are some fantastic examples of seperate wave trains colliding up
near Cape Scott and North Brooks. 


I paddled around Cape Scott a few years ago.  Waves were coming in to
shore and boouncing off the sheer cliffs.  Tide was falling, creating a
big eddy around our side of the Cape.  So, we paddled through very big
(way over my head) waves coming from three and sometimes four
directions.  Some of the waves met up and made funny, swirling
haystacks.  Haviing paddled a lot of whitewater, this was all fun
(nervous fun, but fun) for me.  The strangest part was, just as another
boat and I were accidently surfing side by side on a big wave we noticed
that we had company.  A large group of sea lions were surfing the wave
with us.  They were feeding on the salmon that had bunched up in the
meeting currents.

We surfed and played for a while, always with sea lions joining us,
looking at us, and even bumping us a few times.  That was one of the
great paddling experiences of my life.

Last month I was fortunate enough to paddle in the Dodecanese islands in
Greece.  Kalymnos has huge, sheer cliffs.  When we passed them, the
waves were building to peaks of about five feet.  They came straight
into the cliffs and bounced off at angles determined by the angle of the
cliff to the wave.  We deliberately paddled right up against the cliffs
where the wave action seemed more regular than it was further off.  For
two hours we surfed, bounced and ran riot in the confusion.  Rock
gardens added to the fun.

The more relaxed we got and the less we trusted our eyes, the easier the
balance got.  With eyes closed, it was downright relaxing.  I think a
big part of the problem in this kind of water is that we attempt to
anticipate what our eyes tell us will happen rather than just let the
boat keep itself up by leaving it be.  I found paddling along the cliff
without a paddle no harder than with, only slower.  

Jim Tibensky
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From: Craig Jungers <crjungers_at_gmail.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Weird Shoals or Beating Dumpy
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 08:09:02 -0700
On Mon, Jun 16, 2008 at 10:41 PM, Doug Lloyd <douglloyd_at_shaw.ca> wrote:

>  At these spots you can surf over one side of the berm to open water on the
> other side, then suddenly another wave out of phase can surf you back over
> the berm to open water and more surf on the other side.


I found a spot like that on Lake Coeur d'Alene (35 miles east of Spokane,
WA). About 2 miles south of Black Rock Marina the lake doglegs to the west
and there is a gravel shoal that extends out that stays about 4' deep for a
hundred hards or so. Large powerboats moving up and down the lake tend to
cut this corner close enough to create some surfable waves that rise and
break over this berm. So you surf a south-bound boat's wake across in one
direction and then surf a north-bound boat's wake the other direction. Great
fun!!! The family who owned the house (mansion?) on that point watched me
the entire time and when I had finished beckoned me in to their docks and
was very curious. They didn't think kayaks could surf... and had never
thought *anyone* could surf on a lake. I've been back a few times but it's
only good if you have big boats (and a lot of them) going fast.


> Sometimes the two waves collide actually over the berm and if you are
> there, well, does it get any better for the jaded paddler? People, you
> haven't lived until you have tried this. Folks spend a fortune watching
> action movies all their lives or going to amusement park rides and even
> paying to go skydiving. With a little investment in a good boat and proper
> immersion apparel, you can be out playing in phenomenally outrageous
> conditions within an hour or even less on some coasts. I suppose you can
> have an adrenaline rush even quicker too by running across a busy highway,
> but hopefully you get my point.


Kayaking gives me more bang for the buck than any other sport. White water
paddlers all think sea kayaking is tame stuff. We just have to look harder
for our fun... but we don't have to take two cars. Some people paddle for
the tranquility.... some people don't paddle for the tranquility.

>
> It tracks well, turns on a lean, has somewhat less rocker than some kayaks
> yet doesn't need a skeg. It is rock solid on edge unlike the Outer Island
> (another low profile kayak). I think I may have found my thrill on blueberry
> hill. Made here on Vancouver Island. I didn't even try out the Whisky 16,
> though clapotis seekers might benefit from a kayak with lots of bow
> buoyancy, including other designs for a perfect playboat. I'm going for low
> windage and a tight cockpit. Can't get that need for speed, need for
> high-wind performance out of my mind. We shall see. Clapotis and zipper
> waves here we come...


Wow! All without a skeg, too!!! My Mariner Express is 16' long and 21" wide
so the Spartan VI sounds pretty hot to me.

Someone has got to solve the insane border crossing situation so I can spend
more time paddling where it's more fun; namely: Vancouver Island. I don't
know if you all know just how lucky you are or not. But you should!!!  My
mutha-ship now has interior LED lighting as well as LED running lights, the
propane tank is in a locker and the locker is mounted and the hose connected
to the stove, and it's been launched (once) and didn't sink. (Didn't run
either... had to have the trailer weighed and inspected without the boat on
it.) If the border situation were sane I could launch at Anacortes and be in
the Gulf Islands in an hour with my own bed and breakfast. Damn bureaucrats,
anyway.

Craig Jungers
Moses Lake, WA
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From: hmgwarner <hmgwarner_at_shaw.ca>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Weird Shoals or Beating Dumpy
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 08:38:18 -0700
Jim Tibensky wrote
>
> Last month I was fortunate enough to paddle in the Dodecanese islands in
> Greece.  Kalymnos has huge, sheer cliffs.  When we passed them, the
> waves were building to peaks of about five feet.  They came straight
> into the cliffs and bounced off at angles determined by the angle of the
> cliff to the wave.  We deliberately paddled right up against the cliffs
> where the wave action seemed more regular than it was further off.  For
> two hours we surfed, bounced and ran riot in the confusion.  Rock
> gardens added to the fun.
>
I've done this off of East Sooke Park just west of Victoria BC.  You are 
absolutely right.  I would get in close to the rock wall where the wave or 
surge coming down the Strait of Juan da Fuca would lift me up the vertical 
wall like I was on an elevator.  Your mind and eyes tell you that you are 
going to be smashed against the rock wall but for some inexplicable reason 
there is always a cushion of water a couple if inches wide between you and 
the wall.  When the elevator starts to drop you surf back away from the 
wall.  On that day I was getting these great surf rides that seemed to go on 
for ever.  What was neat was I'd be surfing back into the on coming surge. 
Once the energy of the rebounding water played out I'd ride the surge back 
into the wall.  I must have made six or seven trips with very few forward 
stokes, just the timely brace and a stern rudder.

If you want to try this; the first time do it with a couple of buddies, wear 
a helmet, and have decent tow lines so you can initiate a rescue should 
things go wrong.  I did this on waves that were not dumping down on the rock 
face,  That would indicate the bottom of the wave had slowed on an 
underwater obstacle causing it to loose energy and spill or dumb onto the 
rock face.  On this day and place the waves would climb the wall and rebound 
back away.

Lots of fun. 
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From: Doug Lloyd <douglloyd_at_shaw.ca>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Weird Shoals or Beating Dumpy
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 18:59:08 -0700
> The more relaxed we got and the less we trusted our eyes, the easier the
> balance got.  With eyes closed, it was downright relaxing.  I think a
> big part of the problem in this kind of water is that we attempt to
> anticipate what our eyes tell us will happen rather than just let the
> boat keep itself up by leaving it be.  I found paddling along the cliff
> without a paddle no harder than with, only slower.
>
> Jim Tibensky

Wow Jim, you have to have a big set of "antinodes" to close your eyes in a 
situation like that.

I find the Oregon coast a bit different from Vancouver Island's west coast 
when it comes to clapotis and other gnarly hydraulics. Seems like even far 
out the sea bed shallows extensively with sand whereas much of the 
V.Island's west coast the sea is fairly deep right up to close to the cliffs 
(unless you are atop and extensive shelving reef, common to some locations). 
On island escapades I can loiter at the base of a cliff on a good swell day 
but the same attempts on the Oregon coast yielded a more compelling 
sentimentality that made me way more cautious in these domains as I explored 
further and at times a little desperate as I plowed through rock gardens 
full boar, sidesurfing over jagged reefs wondering if I'd ever be released 
from the grip of the waves. Upside down was even more interesting. The water 
was clear and you could see the rocks whizzing by beneath your helmet. Solo, 
one really was playing Russian Roulette where there was a possibility of 
getting knocked unconscious, though even with a team of paddlers, one 
shouldn't be provoked to take more chances. So, I have a lot of respect for 
open water, Oregonian playboaters. I'd also say that a minimum 22'" wide 
boat with a bit of a flat hull would be the ideal.

I'm not sure how many Paddlewisers, or other paddlers out there for that 
matter, paddle to remote wilderness where interesting hydraulics present 
themselves to the eager paddler. I've done base camping in the vicinity of 
San Joseph Bay, North Brooks, and Pachena Bay (Port Renfrew from a vehicle) 
with the sole purpose of finding lumpy, dump-the-frumpy stuff to find severe 
hydraulics. It works best if you have toured the area before, know the local 
conditions, and can come back without the soulish draw of needing to go off 
seeing new coast as you already know it, so are content to zero in on the 
more technical sections you normally avoid or pass through quickly when 
conditions were a go with your fully loaded boat. It is a different kind of 
kayaking that while requiring good equipment and skill levels and confidence 
in those two items, it really equates more with a fascination for the 
reciprocality of safety and a desire to dance at the edge of extreme 
vulnerability and exposure. If there is a risk reduction in this type of 
paddling possible (for the solo paddler, especially) it comes from earning 
the right to be out there by working hard to acquire the ability to handle 
the unexpected and keep a level head. Being at peace with your Maker and 
having good life insurance helps. And don't be a do-or-die dweeb. Back off 
if it feels all wrong or if you are loosing touch with reality. You and your 
kayak can only survive so much abuse. That applies to one's spirit too. But 
do be careful, the full-facial grins garnered on day-long sorties can crack 
sunburnt lips and cause irregular tan lines between your cheeks and 
eyebrows. Such are the hazards on my west coast. :-)

By the way, clapotis rarely gets you airborn. The down-plash of the wave can 
implode sprayskirts; keeping your arms in the classic tighter box of 
shoulder-injury prevention is a good idea, and make sure everything on you 
deck is secure. Don't be a rookie!



Doug Lloyd 
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From: Jackie Myers <jackie_at_muddypuppies.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Wierd Shoals or Beating Dumpy
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 08:42:05 -0700
What a NICE shot!  Love it!

Jackie


Brian Curtiss wrote:

>The colliding waves off Cape Lookout looked something like this:
>http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/6931/wallpaperlj4.jpg
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From: James Farrelly <JFarrelly5_at_comcast.net>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Wierd Shoals or Beating Dumpy
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 15:27:12 -0400
On Jun 16, 2008, at 4:01 PM, Steve Holtzman wrote:

> Has anybody else ever been in ocean conditions where waves were  
> breaking on
> you from two directions at once?
>


Not quite ocean but the mouth of rivers off Savannah, GA USA often  
have waves that wrap around the shoulders of the mouth of the river  
and bonk into each other in interesting ways. Most local coast waves  
aren't very linear and so you kind of get hit with swelly, chunky  
stuff but its still fun to get double teamed.

Jim et al
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